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Author Topic: Reactive Generator Research for everyone to share  (Read 53229 times)
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Hi everyone,

today is my 52nd birthday and I've decided to share the most promising research I have found to date.

For quite some time I've been studying the effects of reactive power using all kinds of circuit configurations.
The circuit that seems to have the most promising results is a Transformer and capacitor combination.
At this time I'm using a Microwave Oven Transformer (aka MOT)
I'm sure there are even better suited transformers but of all the transformers I had on hand at this time a MOT is giving me the best results and I will share more on the details in the next post.

Don't assume this is common information, since it's not!... I have search the internet and youtube and no one has shared the results that I'm about to give. Also, I've been sharing my results with Gyula (in case I miss something) he is a well respected researcher.
He also could not find anything on the net of what I'm about to share. Gyula was also quite surprised of the results of the test as he thought the opposite would happen.
I'm sure this isn't a new discovery!... and most likely is the operating principle of many OU devices you have seen in videos or been hearing about.
However, those who have found this effect are not sharing and are probably of the same mindset as 99% of the world's population and think to make profit first rather than helping those how have much less than them let alone thinking of helping our environment.

I have always promised myself to share all so here it is.
I only ask one thing from you and it's not difficult to do. If after viewing my video demonstration you see no value to what I share then please move on and don't bother wasting another minute of your time.
If you don't understand what is being shared! that's not a problem but I ask you stay in the background and keep looking at the updates and look at the posts of those who do understand and are willing to participate in developing this to its full potential.
In time it may come clear to you and possibly a list of the exact parts and where to buy them once a device is perfected.
If you can't build anything that's also not a problem as someone may offer a built device for you to buy. There's room for everyone but please lets keep this topic clean.

Also, please note,  I make no claims of OU... all I suggest is by using certain values of electrical components (which usually cause losses) adjusting and connecting them in a certain way, one could remove the Lenz effect on a load connected to a generator. Also, by using such a circuit on the input (prime mover) one could also reduce the input power by 50% (as demonstrated in my video) or up to 100% if you can develop a circuit that would make a better phase shift then my circuit used in test 1 video demo
If this does not attract you please move on and don't waste your time watching this 30 minute video.
As far as I know this is the first ever video demonstration with an explanation of the benefits of a reactive power load on a generator.
Also, I'm not hiding anything in a box!  all is in the open and details given.

Link to video demo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Guc8TADLteM

In the next post I'll include some more details on the effect of using a MOT and capacitors and include some scope shots of test 1 video.

Luc
« Last Edit: 2013-11-15, 23:07:36 by gotoluc »
   
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Below you will find the scope shots of the video demonstration.

An oscilloscope is needed to experiment with reactive power as without it you would be working in the dark.
On the low voltage side of MOT primary you will need a Series Capacitor. It can be many different values of AC Capacitors capable of 220vac which you connect in parallel to make the value you need to get the best current and phase shift (90 degrees is ideal).
You should have many cap values from 1uf to 60uf to combine them to find the ideal value plus or minus 1uf.
I suggest starting around 20uf on 220v MOT's and 40uf on 120v MOT's
Please note that even if you combine caps together to get a certain uf value, that Capacitor bank will be connected in Series to the MOT primary.
For the high voltage side of the MOT you will need many HV 2000vac rated caps of small uf values like .22uf or even smaller as small changes make big differences between the secondary and primary. You can even get good results by shorting the secondary as it's self capacitance maybe enough. So maybe Bifilar winding could also be looked at as a secondary which could have its own self capacitance and require no external caps. But like I say you can just try it shorted at first or attach a resistive load if you're using it as output. Also, best to use high resistance between 300 to 1000 ohms. Each MOT has it's ideal load to get max power out and keeping phase at ideal position.

Tuning to be most efficiency like 0 watts input with10 watts out (which I've done) you will need a perfect 90 degrees phase shift.
 It's not easy to do, since as as soon as you connect a load be it Inductive or Resistive our friend Lenz wants to come for a visit. Mostly when it's Inductive!

Now for the microwave oven transformer (MOT)
Why a MOT?... well, it can work with other transformers but my best test results so far was a transformer with a high Impedance secondary (many turns), so naturally a MOT is better suited for this.
I think one could improve over a MOT by maybe using a Utility Line Step Down Transformer which is what could be on Valy's looped generator video (on side close to motor)? don't know if its a large capacitor or a transformer?

See for yourself, here's the link to Valy's looped generator video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7qa3MmdqdQ0

These large utility transformers are designed to step down 7000, 14000 or more Volts AC to 220vac, so it may work better then a MOT? and should be able to maintain very large quantities of reactive magnetic flux within the core which should result in maintaining a next to perfect phase shift when a load (motor) is connected to the low impedance side. But again this would needs to be tested.
Please note that what maybe hidden in Valy box (secret to make the device work) could be a high voltage AC capacitor connected to the HV secondary of the utility transformer and its low voltage coil connected between the 600vac PM generator and the induction motor.  Once he gets it started and flips the switch the induction motor run capacitor is probably used as the primary capacitor.
I also could be wrong and the box maybe a transformer and capacitors of a welder as I have seen a few videos on YT that when a welder is operated it stops the utility meter and even makes it turn backwards:

See for yourself, link to video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jcPKz7uEq-8

Anyways, all this needs to be tested to find the best setup

In my Reactive Generator test 1 video what prevented me to further drop the 50 watts used by the induction motor was the limit of my variac voltage output.
I know that may not make sense to you but when you experiment with this you may understand.
To achieve a lower power consumption I would need to get a better phase shift (closer to 90 degrees) and the way to do this would be to reduce the capacitance uf value on the series primary cap bank. However, that action will cause a reaction, so to maintain the induction motor speed I would have to raise the voltage of my variac but I was close to max at 150vac.
Don't be fooled! ... there's better result to be had.  I decided to keep it simple by using a standard variac. The potential of what this could become is what is inportant.
Once you start experimenting and get positive results you will better understand the potential. But I'll tell you, it's not as easy as I make it look in my video. It will take time to master this beast.

The other thing I've not mentioned is about the two MOT's I'm using in the video. They are from South Africa, so 220vac. I brought them back to Canada over a year ago because I was working on a reactive battery charger (this is how this all started) and since the Primaries are for 220vac they would have more turns and possibly a higher Inductance then our 120vac version.
My experiments have confirmed that a MOT with a higher Inductance primary requires a lower series capacitance value for the same amount of real power on the load to secondary compared to the 120vac MOT which needs double the cap uf value for the same output. So possibly less capacitive energy in the primary = less current being wasted in the transformer core as heat caused by eddy currents. I could feel the difference of heat between the two when I tested the 220v vs the 120v.
My best score so far on a reactive load on the output of the generator is around 20 Watts without the generator loosing RPM and raising the power requirement to the prime mover.
I chose not to demonstrate this in test 1 video as the you need 3600 RPM for the alternator to output 120vac and thought it was more important to demonstrate the effect of reactive power on the input prime mover (motor) then only a higher output power as I would needed much more voltage (as mentioned above) to get close to the RPM the alternator needs to output 120vac.
However,  if it would make you happy to see a reactive circuit connected to the output producing 20 watts at no cost to the grid input, then I can upload a video demo for your entertainment.


This is just the beginning as I'm sure with all of us working together we can develop this to a much greater potential. Also note that this could be used on so many applications like a car alternator producing power for HHO production at no cost (load) to engine.
I also think a solid state version (no moving parts) could be possible.
The application possibilities are endless.

To think that everyone trained in electrical or electronics for the past 100 years have been told that reactive power is not useful is hard to believe!... could this be so? am I dreaming?

For the next few weeks I may not be available to answer posts as I have to complete a job to make a little $ to keep living. So I encourage you not to post other than your experiment results in order to keep this topic clean and easy to understand for the new comers.

All the best with your experiments and please share as I have.
If you steal this thinking of self gain you will not gain anything and failed the test of what it is to be a true being of light.

Love all Serve all

Luc
« Last Edit: 2013-11-15, 23:08:08 by gotoluc »
   
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It's turtles all the way down
Thank you for sharing your carefully executed experiments.

I will study them in greater detail and hopefully post a technical comment down the road.

By the way, Happy Birthday, 52 is a very good year.


---------------------------
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People are getting confused at other forums, so before it starts here I'll explain why I made the video demo that way. I will also recommend to first start with the below simple test and circuit diagram.

Trying to replicate my demo video is too difficult to start with. I made the video that way to prove that the circuit is not fooling the power meter since it does not cause a Lenz effect to a generator and also to demonstrate it has potential to looping a generator.

Start with these instructions and circuit for your first test.

The induction motor circuit is very difficult to tune if you have no prior experience with reactive power tuning. I would recommend people to start with the below test as you use the grid and a plug-in watts meter to first learn. This way you will see results fast since I worked out most of this.

Start with a 25 watt 1k Ohm load on the secondary but no caps for now. Then start with about a 10uf Series cap on the primary and connect it to grid. Reduce or raise (if needed) the cap uf value until your power meter is at about 1 watt.  Then check your voltage on the 1K Ohm load and do the math. You should have more power out than in.

After that test, reduce your load resistor by 100 or 200 Ohms at a time and you will see you can add uf value to your primary and still stay at zero watts in. And If you raise the Ohms resistor your cap will need to be less to maintain zero watts.

You will find the ideal resistor and cap value which give you most watts out for zero watts in and you will find that each MOT is different.

After you get the hang of it you can then try working with the other circuit diagram below is you want to do tests to eventually detach from the grid (looped generator).
However, your generator will need to supply a higher voltage potential then 120 or 220 volts It also takes a lot of time to tune to ideal levels.

All the best with your experiments and please share your results

Luc



   
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Hi Luc
I think i will follow along on this thread.
So for clarification,when you say 0 watts on the input,dose that mean a 0 watt increase from the idel power, when the load is applied to the output-or are you saying we can tune the transformer to draw 0 watts?

Now the problem i have,is my scope shares a common ground with the grid,and i cannot place it anywhere on the primary side of the transformer.The secondary side is no problem ofcourse.
That is why i opted for the setup below,so as to isolate the transformer i was trying to tune,and be able to place my scope on it to watch my current and voltage phase.
So i basicly replaced your generator with the MOT ,to give me my AC input to the tuneing transformer.
   
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It's turtles all the way down

What resolution does your power meter have on Watts and Power Factor? If only one digit, this can also lead to errors due to lack of resolution and roundup / down.
« Last Edit: 2013-11-18, 03:36:40 by ION »


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Hi GotoLuc,

Awesome and even wonderful!
Thanks a lot.

I remember "Ganga Shakti – Water Power".
I replicated it. It works and I often amaze my friend with it...
-------------
Here we have  'GotoLuc' a very creative inventor and successful experimenter that
do not hesitate to spend time and money and is OK to share his findings, should they had taken
to him a lot of work. Right?

Here we also have "ION" who is nitpicking about some Power Meter.

So? When the Circuit is behaving the normal way, the Power Meter is OK (accurate enough).
But, when the modified circuit (with MOTs and caps) is behaving the "wrong" way (showing no Lenz effect) this very
Power Meter is not enough accurate....

Decidedly, my dear ION, you and and others of that ilk are  pathetic....

Le bonjour vous sied,
Jean



   
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Hi GotoLuc,

Awesome and even wonderful!
Thanks a lot.

I remember "Ganga Shakti – Water Power".
I replicated it. It works and I often amaze my friend with it...
-------------
Here we have  'GotoLuc' a very creative inventor and successful experimenter that
do not hesitate to spend time and money and is OK to share his findings, should they had taken
to him a lot of work. Right?

Here we also have "ION" who is nitpicking about some Power Meter.

So? When the Circuit is behaving the normal way, the Power Meter is OK (accurate enough).
But, when the modified circuit (with MOTs and caps) is behaving the "wrong" way (showing no Lenz effect) this very
Power Meter is not enough accurate....

Decidedly, my dear ION, you and and others of that ilk are  pathetic....

Le bonjour vous sied,
Jean




You do know of course that reactive power is also known as wattless power?,and you expect a watt meter to read this how?.

I think you just stepped out of your boat,and into the alligator pit.
   

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Buy me a cigar
Dear NerzhDishual.

I too then must fall into the "Pathetic" rank.

Any wattmeter where the voltage and current are out of phase will not provide an accurate reading!!

I wonder what the meter was saying as regards power factor?? My own unit will tell me that story.

The dreaded Kvar as it was known in the supply industry was carefully monitored. The cables still had to be rated to carry the current even though it was out of phase to the voltage. IT IS STILL THERE!!

Cheers Grum.


---------------------------
Nanny state ? Left at the gate !! :)
   
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Hi Luc

I would like to present you with a couple of things i believe to be answers for your setup.This would also involve some testing on your behalf,so i guess it's just a question of try and see if you seek answers.

I believe the reason you see no reflection on your generator when a load is applied to your reactive setup,is because the reactive power already exist and is payed for in your generator. I know you might think that there is no load on the generator while the switch is off,but that is not true.The reactive power already exist in your generator,and I'm guessing it is more than 3 watts.When you tune your transformer with the cap's,you are actually tuning it to collect the !already paid for! reactive power in the generator.

There is a simple test you can try to confirm this.
In the plastic box of your generator where all the wiring and circuits are,there is a small black square cap.Your generator looks to be about 2200 watt's,so the cap in those ones should be about 8 to 12uf. Run the generator without your reactive setup switched on,and record watts being used at the mains from your watt meter. then remove the cap from the generators exciter windings-i believe it should be the two green or two black wires that go to it-only going on the ones we have here in Australia. You can remove this cap while it is running,just use rubber gloves or well insulated pliers. What i think you will find,is that your motor will speed up,and/or your watt consumption will go down. I suspect it will go down a lot more than the 3 watts you were burning off over the 1k resistor.Make sure you take an RPM reading before you remove the cap,so as you can drop the RPM back down to what it was before you removed the cap. Once the RPM has returned to what it was before you removed the cap,see how much your watt input has dropped. The difference between the two watt readings ,will be the absolute maximum power available to convert to reactive power-without it putting a load .on your generator
   
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All my respects Mr TinMan,

1) Reactive power exists in an AC circuit when the current and voltage are not in phase.
A matter of some cosine (phi). No?
Some Power Meters are claimed to be able to measure it.

2) All these kinda "Discussions Groups" are crocodiles dens often
crammed with 'Paid Shills' to muddy the water. No?

Avec mes meilleures salutations,
Jean
   
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Hi Grumage,

OK!
Measuring (AC) Input VS (AC) Output is not so easy.
But measuring Delta(Output) VS Delta(Input), is IMO, more easy.
That was my point.

Anyway, OK! "Pathetic rank" (Grumage-TM).... No accurate reading...

So, to close(?) the debate why not use a (good) battery and a  (good, but small) 'real sine' inverter
before the variac?
DC input. No Power Meter..

Meilleurs sentiments,
Jean
   
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It's turtles all the way down
Maybe I need to clarify.

In the first experiment outlined in reply #3 by Luc, he is expecting to measure power in the range of Zero to One Watts.

The reason I asked about the resolution of his power meter is because unless the Wattmeter has 1/10 Watt resolution you cannot make meaningful measurements with a meter with only integer readout at very low levels. The meter probably has 1500 Watts full scale capability.

e.g. with integer only readout:

meter reads 0 Watts, actual power is somewhere between  0 and 0.5 Watts

meter reads 1 Watt, actual power is somewhere between 0.6 and 1.5 Watts

meter reads 2 Watts, actual power is between 1.6 and 2.5 Watts

So unless the meter has sufficient resolution you cannot make meaningful measurements at the very low end of it's scale.

This is roundup / round down error of 1 Least Significant Digit.

Quote ND:

Quote
Power Meter is not enough accurate....

Decidedly, my dear ION, you and and others of that ilk are  pathetic....

I was not even talking of accuracy, or non-linearity,  which are other  factors, we haven't gotten to that yet.

If you are going to make meaningful measurements in the range of 0 to 1 Watts you need  one or two digits to the right of the decimal point depending on the resolution and accuracy required.

ND has clearly defined himself with his posts. I am pathetic, but actually more like sympathetic.

Maybe read what other users of the EM100 have to say, especially on low power levels. (grossly inaccurate)

http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r25987852-Power-meters-Kill-A-Watt-VS-EM100

Looking over the manual the EM100 rated to read between 12 and 1800 Watts. There is no accuracy specification at all  and no mention of readings below 12 Watts. It has integer readout of watts and no mention of power factor in the manual.

This is called "due diligence " my dear ND, you call it "nit picking".

I'll stay out of this thread.
« Last Edit: 2013-11-19, 21:29:03 by ION »


---------------------------
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300 Watts Pure Sine Wave Power Inverters
http://www.nbgaia.com/products/pure_sine_wave_inverters/psw300.html

And after? Output-wise?
The meters should not be accurate? The Digital Scope should have a bug?
Come on!
--------------
It is not complicated at all:
As soon as anybody is claiming any 'OU' or merely any non conventional efficiency, this person is:

1) A snake oil dealer = not honnest.
2) Honnest but 'self delusional' (wrong measurements).

I'm fully aware that Input/Output measurements are very very tricky and can leads to errors.
---------------
For ex: take any Joule Thief and try to measure its efficiency.
The simplest way to do that, IMO, is this:


You will figure out that the efficiency of your JT is someting about 10-30% (Max).
You win the 'Under-Unity' prize.. :) I often win this prize, BTW.
------------------------
Now, make another measurements, I did it.
Your eyes are misleading, indeed. So, we can use a Lux Meter.
Experiment:


For this, I measured that my ('botched' (= non tuned) JT) was twice more efficient (Lux-wise) than the 'brute force'
(3 AAA bats Vs one AAA bat).
A 'botched JT' is when you plug the LEDS, the CCT consumes more (DC) power.
A 'tuned' JT is when you you plug the LEDS the CCTs *does not* consumes more power or even slightly less.
Sorry for my English.
Sorry also, at the time of these measurements, I was not aware of "tuned" JT.
A tuned JT needs a lot of time and a bunch of transistors to test.

Now, according to some measurements, the efficiency of a JT is just 30% Max.
According to other measurements the efficiency of this very JT is twice the 'brute force'...

Go figure...
Is this 'OU'? No claim about this
Is this more efficient". Yes!

veulliez agréer l'expression de mes meilleures salutations,
Jean










   
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H (ION),
Spare one letter. :)

..............
ND has clearly defined himself with his posts. I am pathetic, but actually more like sympathetic.
..............

(Sym)pathetic. Why not?

So, I 'clearly' defined myself through  my posts.
This can be said for any 'Poster'. No?

Veuillez agréer, Monsieur ION,  l'expression de mes plus respectueuses salutations,
Jean




   
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People are getting confused at other forums, so before it starts here I'll explain why I made the video demo that way. I will also recommend to first start with the below simple test and circuit diagram.

Trying to replicate my demo video is too difficult to start with. I made the video that way to prove that the circuit is not fooling the power meter since it does not cause a Lenz effect to a generator and also to demonstrate it has potential to looping a generator.

Start with these instructions and circuit for your first test.

The induction motor circuit is very difficult to tune if you have no prior experience with reactive power tuning. I would recommend people to start with the below test as you use the grid and a plug-in watts meter to first learn. This way you will see results fast since I worked out most of this.

Start with a 25 watt 1k Ohm load on the secondary but no caps for now. Then start with about a 10uf Series cap on the primary and connect it to grid. Reduce or raise (if needed) the cap uf value until your power meter is at about 1 watt.  Then check your voltage on the 1K Ohm load and do the math. You should have more power out than in.

After that test, reduce your load resistor by 100 or 200 Ohms at a time and you will see you can add uf value to your primary and still stay at zero watts in. And If you raise the Ohms resistor your cap will need to be less to maintain zero watts.

You will find the ideal resistor and cap value which give you most watts out for zero watts in and you will find that each MOT is different.

After you get the hang of it you can then try working with the other circuit diagram below is you want to do tests to eventually detach from the grid (looped generator).
However, your generator will need to supply a higher voltage potential then 120 or 220 volts It also takes a lot of time to tune to ideal levels.

All the best with your experiments and please share your results

Luc




Thanks so much for sharing with us, Luc.  I have a 440VAC cap @ 5uF and 45uF I'd like to try.  
And various power meters including a standard home meter with horizontal wheel.
My MOT was so heavy I think I did not bring it with the move, but I can get another!
I'll be glad to share what results I get.
Steve
   
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Happy to see that PhysicsProf is interested in the Gotoluc experiments.
A break in useless discussions and rants. No?

IMO(#1), this GotoLuc findings are not so easy to replicate.
Anyway, IMO(#2), it is a very valuable food for thought.
Quote from Gotoluc:
".... You can even get good results by shorting the secondary...."
This sound not serious... Nevertheless, it is very serious...(already done).
 
Gwella gourhemennou,
Jean
   

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It's not as complicated as it may seem...
A break in useless discussions and rants. No?
Jean
Whether someone's post is useless or a rant is a matter of opinion. IMO, so far only your posts in this thread have been been both actually.

Do you have any useful technical information to add to this discussion?
   
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  I found ND's suggestion on measuring the efficiency of a JT circuit to be thought-provoking.  ND -- will you do a test or tests as outlined by Luc?  I'm working on getting two MOT's.

I'm intrigued by his video, his experiments -- thanks again for sharing, Luc!  Are MOT's needed?  I have some good 1:1 toroidal transformers...  but I don't think they have the properties required...
   

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The circuit depicted in the diagram:



Is similar to one made use of by experimenters
often to limit input current to the primary
winding of a line operated transformer and
thereby tailor the secondary voltage to their
immediate needs.

If the capacitor selected brings the input circuit
to resonance the voltages developed across both
the capacitor and the primary winding will be
greatly magnified.

At other than resonance the voltages across the
input circuit components will be much more akin
to a voltage divider.

It's a classic circuit for AC circuit analysis and
some variant of the circuit is popular in the
laboratory phase of courses of instruction.

Measurements are tricky with this circuit and
can lead to erroneous conclusions.

Aye, ND does indeed raise some thought provoking
observations.


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Dumped notes interestingly:
Quote
Measurements are tricky with this circuit and
can lead to erroneous conclusions.

OK, so let's say we want to reliably measure the INPUT POWER.  (We'll revisit the output power thereafter.)
Will a decent power meter, like "Kill-A-Watt", do the job?  gives power factor also...
How about a standard electric-power meter, with the revolving wheel as found on many homes -- is this reliable for Pinput?

(I have both types of meters, and several like the Kill-A-Watt.  Thinking to measure Pinput using both and compare.)

Quote
dumped: Aye, ND does indeed raise some thought provoking
observations.

Yes, he does.  And thanks for your observations, too!
« Last Edit: 2013-11-19, 22:41:49 by PhysicsProf »
   

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I suppose it would depend very much on
how accurate and precise the Kill-a-Watt
meters are.

For best measurement accuracy it would be
necessary to utilize a laboratory grade well
calibrated test instrument.

I suspect that this type of circuit has been
exhaustively tested and evaluated numerous
times in the past 100 years because of its
deceptive properties.


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  OK, let's say I'm OK with a 7% error bar on the measurement.  Will the revolving-wheel "standard" power meter give me at least that good?  I think it will.  Unless there is something in this particular circuit (with C and L) that messes up the power reading... even on your house meter?  

Plan: I'll use that standard power-meter to check the Kill-A-Watt meter...
   
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  This morning I checked comments at Luc's video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Guc8TADLteM

Note what he said yesterday about not posting for a while -- and why --

   
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  So Luc's postings are terminated, at least for a while, because he has accepted a mysterious offer.   :'(

  If you have interest in his "open source" video posted before this business, suggest you download a copy of it while you can:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Guc8TADLteM
   
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