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Author Topic: Akula0083 30 watt self running generator.  (Read 712540 times)
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Well for starters it lets us know that if the peak current though those load LED's is e.g. 3A, then the switching frequency of the VT1 transistor has to be

This is the conclusion I was hoping you would find.  Does in fact the control circuitry compensate faster than the main signal?  Because if it does, that changes the whole ball game--one cannot simply inject a signal into the MOSFET driver and expect the proper response.
   
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Exception could be made for the brief reverse conduction during the DSR effect (as in your nanopulser) as well as the Zener effect and Avalanche reverse breakdown of some diodes in some cases.

Yes and in there lies the Out of the Box jewel as far as I am concerned. Said this pages ago.

@Grumage (@All)

While you guys work out more of that circuit, I took some time and measured some diameter ratios of the E-cores since they are farthest away from the actual bobbin and windings in the Akula photo. With these ratios, I extrapolated their relative diameters to overlay the bobbin coil that are closer in the photo. As you can see, on the second image, the center core of the Ecore takes up a good amount of diameter under the winds. Add the thickness of the plastic bobbin and you will realize that Akula never had enough room in there for 15/45, far from it. Especially since he used thicker wire on the primary side. That also explains why the wire going to the core side first had a very weak angle of entry. Yes, the second image is not a perfect portrayal since the coil bobbin has a depth of vision but keeping the ratio the same gives you a good enough confirmation of how much space the Center Ecore is taking in that bobbin. I could be wrong, but I doubt it even if slightly off it stilldoe snot figure all those winds.

You usually make the coil first with the FG resonance method and identify your targeted drive frequency, then the circuit to drive it. Think of Akulas' steps. He made a coil and started to drive it. He probably blew a mosfets after each time he hit the sweet spot before he got sick and tired and decided to start working to tame the flyback beast, hence he comes up with the following circuit which is great because it incorporates a standard self-running circuit as well. A very impressive mind indeed. We'll see if the IC side survives.

I had prepared a long explanation on why your wind method will be too difficult to run but decided not over post. Maybe when it's more the appropriate time.

So for me, the standard wind method with a copper strip under that last layer is what I see. Keep the strip a good 1/8th open. And this falls perfectly with what is drawn in his diagram. It's just that as in the past, Akula does not give precise wind numbers and from my previous post, you can realize that those numbers are pointless if you do not use the exact same wires and core you will have to tune your coil anyways. Maybe this is Akulas way of saying "You want it, then break your ass and figure it out".

In my book, this should be the first method for trials in order to both not risk blowing the circuit or the core and at least having a base measure for performance. Let's say the standard method lights your bulb blinding white and the circuit directs the self-running automatically, then we can all yell out Yes Yes Praise Be. Now you try your method and see it lights the bulb 1/2 bright or 1/4 bright and 2 times more amperage is consumed. At least you know that the core can dish out the juice in standard mode and in your mode you can then try other configurations to try and go above the standard method output. When in doubt start from where you know.

Think of this simple fact. The less secondary winds, the higher the amperage. If this ever is not OU, there are ways to add another secondary on that coil to draw some more so it still remains a good base of research and I commend anyone taking it.

My full respect and God Speed.

wattsup

PS: Hmmmmmm, just a thought, probably crazy but I wonder if anyone has ever tried to use four LEDS to make a bridge rectifier, what will happen? If LEDS are diodes, they should light up as energy is transferred between the LEDs unidirectional rectifier functions so all the output can be used. If you run it at AC 10Hz with a good enough impulse you should see the interactions of the lights, yes or no? Purely theoretical.




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Here is Multisim 12 simulation, please help me complete it. Something interesting is happening after 0.038 s, you have to be patient or have faster computer then mine.
   
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@Grumage

This is the other part of my post above that I decided to put down today since I will be less on the forum during the weekend but wanted you to get some other insights as an OPINION only. Take what yo think is OK.

OK, about your winding method, I know it looks really exotic with a secondary wound 2 layers over a gap and your primary wound at one side of the gap over the secondary were the first layer turns to the second layer. So the Primary is over the secondary that has 15 turns under the primary. The Sec also has let's say 7 winds on the other gap side first layer before it goes under the primary so that makes a total of 22 turns out of 45 that are before or under the primary.

Now what happens when the primary pulse in on. This impress pushes on both the sec under the primary as well as the core. What happens in the sec. Nothing because since it is going in both directions under the primary, they cancel out as the pulse from the primary increases in its cycle. Now the pulse on the primary is off, by that time you get a reflection hitting the other side of the gap there you have sec winds 1-7 on a first layer and winds 23 to 45 above it. So what happens. Nothing because the sec winds under the primary are producing a node cancellation (bottleneck) while they try to realign. But it is R&D 100% so technically it deserves trails but please read on.

If I took an educated guess and the object was to keep the secondary as per your vision over both gaps, this is what I would do.

Wind the secondary only one layer starting at left and passing over the gap till the end of the first layer to the right side of the gap as a first layer, then wind the rest of the sec over the right hand side of the gap. Then wind 2 layers of the primary on the left side.

You see the object of any energy system serving a load is to provide the greatest potential differential possible to the ends of the loaded coil. The way above has a better chance because only one layer starts under the primary or high potential impress and the end furthest away on the secondary right side will be your low potential impress.

So the primary pulses and the sec can now push in one direction without cancellation from a second layer caught under the primary. Now the reflection hits the other side of the gap to turns 8-16 of the secondary and can also push in the same direction as the sec winds 1-7 thus keeping the highest impress on that side of the sec coil. You will always have to experiment by trying the pulse on one side and compare when running on the other side.

To ensure that the outer most wind layers are at their lowest impress possible, you also have to consider that in a coil wire you have energy in the wire but also energy as skin to skin effect between the wires and this always reduces the total differential from one end of the coil to the other. So what Akula did is add a copper strip before both coils had their last layer wound. (See photos in previous post). Now it could be copper or even maybe home aluminum siding obviously either painted white or originally white but I would bank on a grounded copper strip. Also the strip does not cover the coil turns completely and I would say you have a good 1/8th of the strip circumference open. This strip will dampen any skin to skin transfer to the last layer to ensure that the differential of both sec ends is the maximum possible. Plus the energy dampened by the strip will provide a greater negative peak to the ground side thus providing an even greater differential. You work the top side, you work the bottom side and then hope for the best.

But in both scenarios, either your way (double sec layer under the primary) or the way I just defined above (single sec layer under the primary), the frequency that will make it all work will be in a very thin spread and the slightest frequency fluctuation during operation will most likely kill the effect so it is not easy to push and maintain this effect because you are creating various conditions of primary pulse, secondary gets that pulse, core gets that pulse, core gaps provide reflection, primary provides flyback, etc. All these movements are very difficult to predetermine in order to design an optimal winding method using such a gap overlap scheme. I don't think the Akula circuit itself is designed to take hold of such events since the circuit shows more of a standard drive that has some looping lines to capture flyback. Plus you will need an extremely fast rise time on the pulse to not over-saturate the core with so much movement and the frequency required for such a method risks to be much higher then the circuit design.

When you test something and see it does not work, it only means at the available frequency range (and also often the diode used) it does not work. It's like diving 20 feet in the middle of the ocean, seeing no fish and thinking this ocean is fishless. So really, it does not mean it will not work at a higher frequency because in reality there is a frequency for everything in existence. You can take a toroid with 10 different coil winds and eventually you will find that one frequency that will bring them all to life. hehehe

The above is my vulgarized technical vision of the problem.

wattsup



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Dear Wattsup.

Thank you for your theory regarding the transformer.

I wonder whether we can call it such ?? I have attached a drawing of the schematic with a RED line drawn through it. This RED line is depicting a constant DC current flowing through the primary winding ( L 1 ) to the LED load. This current will provide a steady state of magnetic flux within the core. We now also have a MOSFET that effectively grounds L1 at a frequency yet to be determined, at an even lower resistance than the load!!

Are we in fact looking at a "Nifty" way of creating an NMR response from the core material ?? My cores are Zink / Manganese, highly suited for this purpose !! Or, if I understood Verpies correctly, a Ferro resonance response ??

I agree with your sentiments from your earlier post, we will have to work hard to find out what Akula was actually doing.

Back to the bench !!

Cheers Grum.


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@Grumage

This is exactly what I was reffering to in a previous post explaining that this one fact makes this circuit Out of the Box. For me I would call this a Damped Inductive Charge and Dischage System that is typically based on the Tesla Ozone Patent (TOP).

L1 goes to load but you have C5 there. How does C5 charge? It charges to the inductive capacity of the L1 when mosfet is open charge is held by the diode between the mosfet and C5 and discharges into the LED load when mosfet is closed because voltage across L1 drops to zero.

I have tried working TOP pulsing for years, on and off always ending up with blown mosfets then reverting to slow mechanical or relay methods and sometimes guys would get together to try and work out an EE solution. So Akula, with this circuit found a way to do it and make it last. Right there, if that mosfet lasts more then a few minutes, believe me you don't need any fancy fancy coil.

The output will be somewhat reactive and some amperage via the L2 so I doubt it can handle a large inductive load like a motor, but lighting LEDS, no problem.

wattsup


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Hi all,

Great work on troubleshooting the control circuit! I only get a few days on the PC each week.. the rest of the time I can catch a little on my phone, but not easy.  A lot happening!

@watttsup

Nice work on the transformer!

   
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Dear Wattsup.

Thank you for your theory regarding the transformer.

I wonder whether we can call it such ?? I have attached a drawing of the schematic with a RED line drawn through it. This RED line is depicting a constant DC current flowing through the primary winding ( L 1 ) to the LED load. This current will provide a steady state of magnetic flux within the core. We now also have a MOSFET that effectively grounds L1 at a frequency yet to be determined, at an even lower resistance than the load!!

Are we in fact looking at a "Nifty" way of creating an NMR response from the core material ?? My cores are Zink / Manganese, highly suited for this purpose !! Or, if I understood Verpies correctly, a Ferro resonance response ??

I agree with your sentiments from your earlier post, we will have to work hard to find out what Akula was actually doing.

Back to the bench !!

Cheers Grum.

I was taught electron flow, but I get conventional flow.  ;)
   
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PS: Hmmmmmm, just a thought, probably crazy but I wonder if anyone has ever tried to use four LEDS to make a bridge rectifier, what will happen?


I've never tried.. would be interesting!  Reminds me of AV plugs.
   
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I know main focus here is 30w version, but I'm going to build this micro version this weekend since I already have the components.  Although I don't know correct values.
http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=2358.msg36966#msg36966

Edit: Sorry.. made some errors on schematic. I think this is correct now.
« Last Edit: 2014-03-30, 04:15:14 by 4Tesla »
   
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@All,

There is 0 free board (the breadboard type) left.
See here: http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=2358.300 Reply #318 on: 2014-03-26
Files for this board is found here: http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=2358.250 Reply #270 on: 2014-03-24

Peter probably have more of the Akyla0083 replica boards left, you have to ask him.

GL.
« Last Edit: 2014-03-29, 16:53:56 by Groundloop »
   
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@GL

I am tempted but know that I will only make a mess of it. My talents in small circuit works is not good enough. Are there companies out there that can make the complete circuit for a reasonable price? Then I would be interested in a few. I am sure anyone who made these in quantity will sell them all and more. I'd take four of them to stack the output. (hint-hint)

@all (I posted this at OU so I am putting it here as well - first unrelated paragraphed removed)

About the circuit, the stop switch is to kill energy return from the secondary to the source. This is normal if you want an easy manual method of stopping the return in case R3 or C11 started heating up. He probably burnt a few of them while fine tuning his system, before putting the stop switch in there.

Always remember this is a self-running circuit. All the features of pulsing, secondary and return are in the circuit. During self-running you only have C11 and C5 to hold enough energy to run the circuit for a second at most.

Like I said at OUR, the L1/VT1/C3 combo is an analog or I would say a very smart variation of the Tesla Ozone Patent (TOP). In that patent Tesla explains that you can produce a damped impulse through a primary where the energy used can return to source. But here Akula is using the L1 for two usages, the first being an inductive source as in the motor coil of the TOP and second as the working transformer to impart to the secondary L2.

So the difference here compared to a TOP is that, instead of using the L1 pulse to then drive a primary to secondary coil to produce a discharge arc thus producing ozone, Akula is using it to directly drive the load (working primary without a secondary) where at the end of the load he put R5/C5 to reduce the bleed or load consumption to keep the system primed at all times and where he checks the system status. That is because the system cannot produce enough to run the load with straight ground hence full draw on the source will kill the looping effect.

The secondary L2 can then be freed 100% to simply concentrate its effort to produce enough output for the positive return line to C11.

So the L1 has two usages. It feeds the load directly via a TOP discharge and it energizes the secondary to recycle the energy. That is so smart that most of our brains will need an upgrade to understand it. hahaha

By contrast, our standard method of undamped pulse the primary and draw off the secondary where the energy used can never return to the source. Our whole EE system is based on undamped pulse.

The above also confirms to me that you don't need any special transformer winding other then what we use normally. That is, when primary is over the gap, the secondary is over another gap, or, when primary is on one side of gap, the secondary is on the other side of the same gap. Anything more and you are just creating unusable havoc and energy cancellation.

To test this is simple. Take any coil primary and tank it. Then take any battery and short it across the primary very quickly. Now look at the voltage on your tank. That's what is running the load. Then the secondary is free to return to source. Guys should be clamoring over their work benches by now.

wattsup



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Dear All.

It has been pointed out to me privately that my "RED LINE" analogy, whilst Ok for a purely resistive load, is incorrect for an LED load. The fact is we have LED's in a series/parallel configuration. If we apply our 12 Vdc without the Mosfet being triggered then zero current will flow through the diodes simply because the forward voltage conduction threshold has not been reached!! Only when we start the flyback cycle will the voltage reach a high enough value to light the load.

Now the thread has reached a more pedestrian pace I would like to present a simulation for perusal by our more learned members of OUR, I would be grateful for your feedback.


http://falstad.com/circuit/#%24+1+4.9999999999999996E-6+1.2182493960703473+41+12.0+43%0A162+352+176+352+208+1+3.0+0.0+0.0+1.0%0A162+352+208+352+240+1+3.0+0.0+0.0+1.0%0A162+352+240+352+272+1+3.0+0.0+0.0+1.0%0A162+352+272+352+304+1+3.0+0.0+0.0+1.0%0A162+352+304+352+336+1+3.0+0.0+0.0+1.0%0Av+144+240+144+176+0+0+40.0+12.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0AT+384+96+432+96+0+0.01+3.0+0.14293321860627017+3.0691946109173E-13+0.999%0Ad+384+128+384+176+1+0.805904783%0Aw+352+176+384+176+0%0A159+256+240+256+272+0+20.0+1.0E10%0Aw+144+48+144+96+0%0Aw+144+96+144+176+0%0AR+208+256+176+256+0+2+500.0+5.0+0.0+0.0+0.3%0Ar+352+336+352+384+0+1.0%0Aw+144+240+144+384+0%0Ac+384+176+384+384+0+0.002+14.339777088833753%0Aw+352+384+384+384+0%0Ac+304+336+304+384+0+1.0E-5+0.16850144714049262%0Aw+352+384+304+384+0%0Aw+304+384+256+384+0%0Aw+144+384+256+384+0%0Aw+304+336+352+336+0%0Aw+384+128+256+128+0%0Aw+256+128+256+240+0%0Aw+256+272+256+384+0%0Ad+416+176+480+176+1+0.805904783%0Ar+480+208+416+208+0+420000.0%0Ac+480+240+416+240+0+1.0E-10+2.518181219102189E-10%0Aw+416+176+416+208+0%0Aw+416+208+416+240+0%0Aw+480+176+480+208+0%0Aw+480+208+480+240+0%0Aw+384+176+416+176+0%0Aw+464+128+480+128+0%0Aw+464+96+480+96+0%0Aw+480+128+480+176+0%0Ar+144+48+256+48+0+1.0%0Ar+144+96+256+96+0+0.22%0Aw+256+96+384+96+0%0As+480+48+480+96+0+1+false%0Aw+256+48+480+48+0%0As+208+256+240+256+0+0+false%0Ag+144+384+144+400+0%0Aw+432+96+464+128+0%0Aw+464+96+432+128+0%0Ax+372+118+390+122+0+16+L1%0Ax+426+117+440+120+0+12+L2%0Ax+266+367+287+371+0+16+C5%0Ax+274+260+303+264+0+16+VT1%0Ax+391+303+412+307+0+16+C3%0Ax+113+199+142+203+0+16+12V%0Ao+15+16+0+34+20.0+3.2+0+-1%0A

Cheers Grum.


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@GL

I am tempted but know that I will only make a mess of it. My talents in small circuit works is not good enough. Are there companies out there that can make the complete circuit for a reasonable price? Then I would be interested in a few. I am sure anyone who made these in quantity will sell them all and more. I'd take four of them to stack the output. (hint-hint)

wattsup


Hi Wattsup,

Yes there exists firms that can produce soldered boards but most of them is for large quantity production.
But I think we should keep everything on a small scale basic right now at this point in time. We need to
know if it this circuit really do work. If it does, then perhaps we can think about large scale production.

That said, both the boards I have made is easy to solder with a standard 40 Watt soldering iron. The
board has a solder masks at each solder point that prevent any solder to "float" over to a nearby solder
pad. So it should be easy to solder using good light and a steady hand. If you are old, like me, then
there is also magnifying glasses sold that you can wear on your head, thus keeping both hand free
to do the job. See here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Light%20Head%20Magnifying%20Glass%20Magnifier%20jewelry%20repair%20Hobby%201%205%203%208%205%2010%20x%20Lenses&_itemId=390560658089

GL.
   
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@Groundloop

Thanks for your post.

Another @member just offered to have one populated by one of his friends and I agreed if he can do one for me. I won't say his name because it was offered via a PM unless he says its OK to mention his name here.

I'm 56 (not that old - hehehe), still in good shape. The thing is I would prefer to have it done by a seasoned professional that knows not to put too much heat, placement, etc. The time I will spend on that would be better spent on present works and I am not worried to pay for the time and components.

So for sure I would like a circuit to do these tests wit the others when it is available.

wattsup




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@Groundloop

Thanks for your post.

Another @member just offered to have one populated by one of his friends and I agreed if he can do one for me. I won't say his name because it was offered via a PM unless he says its OK to mention his name here.

I'm 56 (not that old - hehehe), still in good shape. The thing is I would prefer to have it done by a seasoned professional that knows not to put too much heat, placement, etc. The time I will spend on that would be better spent on present works and I am not worried to pay for the time and components.

So for sure I would like a circuit to do these tests wit the others when it is available.

wattsup




Wattsup,

Sure I can send you the "bread board type" board and you can ask Peter to send you the Akyla0083 replica board.
Then you can choose if you want to build one, or the other, or both of the boards. Just PM me a snail mail address.

GL.
   
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Good day Grum:

OK, checked out your new sim:

I changed the upper top left hand resistor from 1 ohm  (original value)  to a 50 ohm and now the LEDs will stay lit when the upper right hand switch is closed.

With the smaller value resistors (<50ohms), the LED are effectively bypassed from rest of circuit when switch is closed.

Voltage @C3 will maintain 12.79v w/ 50ohm resistor.  Sim shows <1/2 watt power dissipation (50ohm resistor); maybe can use a potentiometer in place of this resistor.
Varying the resistance at this resistor changes the voltage across the LEDs.

Let me know what you think.

take care,  peace
lost_bro
« Last Edit: 2014-03-29, 20:59:01 by lost_bro »
   

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I finished placing the components on the print i made.
Only thing left to do is to hook up the leds (10 x 3W Leds), but they have not arrived.
First thing to notice is the difference in the number of components compared to the picture of the original circuit.

Anyway, i shortly fired up the thing without the load (leds) and made some scope shots of the gate voltage (yellow), drain voltage (blue) and the drain current (green, has to be taken * 2!!)
They probably are completely useless this way, but its all i can show right now.

I will be away from the bench the next 2 weeks due to work and have limited access to the forums/mail.

Hope you guys have catched up by then and can show a working device.

Video here:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05jIODPdp2U&feature=youtu.be 

Regards itsu.

« Last Edit: 2014-03-29, 21:32:26 by Itsu »
   
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I finished placing the components on the print i made.
Only thing left to do is to hook up the leds (10 x 3W Leds), but they have not arrived.
First thing to notice is the difference in the number of components compared to the picture of the original circuit.

Anyway, i shortly fired up the thing without the load (leds) and made some scope shots of the gate voltage (yellow), drain voltage (blue) and the drain current (green, has to be taken * 2!!)
They probably are completely useless this way, but its all i can show right now.

I will be away from the bench the next 2 weeks due to work and have limited access to the forums/mail.

Hope you guys have catched up by then and can show a working device.

Video here:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05jIODPdp2U&feature=youtu.be 

Regards itsu.


Hi Itsu,

Great work! My simulations show drain currents in the range of what you found, around 20 amps, with a 10 ohm load plus some low current LEDS (3 sets of 5 LEDs in series, paralleld to the resistor)

Cheers,

Black Bird
   
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around 20 amps

Wow.  We'll be seeing some smoke!  :)
   
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Wow.  We'll be seeing some smoke!  :)

A fuse is likely to be the most important component in this build!! I have started to build this circuit, so by the time Itsu returns to his bench to complete his build, I may have something to report.

Hoppy

   
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Hello All:

I posted a comment the other day regarding the 'New' sim by Grum.

No-one commented, so I am  taking the liberty to post the Modified 'New' sim.

$ 1 4.9999999999999996E-6 2.4737822143832555 46 12.0 43
162 384 176 384 208 1 3.0 0.0 0.0 1.0
162 384 208 384 240 1 3.0 0.0 0.0 1.0
162 384 240 384 272 1 3.0 0.0 0.0 1.0
162 384 272 384 304 1 3.0 0.0 0.0 1.0
162 384 304 384 336 1 3.0 0.0 0.0 1.0
v 176 240 176 176 0 0 40.0 12.0 0.0 0.0 0.5
T 416 96 464 96 0 0.01 3.0 0.013916074305551474 0.08171659486717558 0.999
d 416 128 416 176 1 0.805904783
w 384 176 416 176 0
159 288 240 288 272 0 20.0 1.0E10
w 176 48 176 96 0
w 176 96 176 176 0
R 240 256 208 256 0 2 500.0 5.0 0.0 0.0 0.3
r 384 336 384 384 0 1.0
w 176 240 176 384 0
c 416 176 416 384 0 0.002 13.028650819569869
w 384 384 416 384 0
c 336 336 336 384 0 1.0E-5 0.014039012853552583
w 384 384 336 384 0
w 336 384 288 384 0
w 176 384 288 384 0
w 336 336 384 336 0
w 416 128 288 128 0
w 288 128 288 240 0
w 288 272 288 384 0
d 448 176 512 176 1 0.805904783
r 512 208 448 208 0 420000.0
c 512 240 448 240 0 1.0E-10 -0.7431471995083534
w 448 176 448 208 0
w 448 208 448 240 0
w 512 176 512 208 0
w 512 208 512 240 0
w 416 176 448 176 0
w 496 128 512 128 0
w 496 96 512 96 0
w 512 128 512 176 0
r 176 48 288 48 0 67.0
r 176 96 288 96 0 0.22
w 288 96 416 96 0
s 512 48 512 96 0 0 false
w 288 48 512 48 0
s 240 256 272 256 0 0 false
g 176 384 176 400 0
w 464 96 496 128 0
w 496 96 464 128 0
x 404 118 422 122 0 16 L1
x 458 117 472 120 0 12 L2
x 298 367 319 371 0 16 C5
x 306 260 335 264 0 16 VT1
x 423 303 444 307 0 16 C3
x 145 199 174 203 0 16 12V
o 40 64 0 35 20.0 0.2 0 -1
o 15 64 0 35 20.0 0.4 1 -1


I changed the value of the upper left hand resistor to 67ohms (originally 1 ohm).  With the original value of 1 ohm, the LEDs self extinguish when the stop switch is shorted:   Now (with the 67ohm resistor) when the stop switched is 'Closed' or shorted, the LEDs will stay lit to a certain degree and there is a partial charge returning the the 'Battery' (according to the sim.).

I believe that Wesley is correct to comment that Akula has posted these schematics & videos to gain notoriety and not necessarily to help the people replicate his devices.

For me it is then a given that there will be anomalies so to speak in the wiring and or actual components which were listed on the 'Many' different schematics posted all over the web.

No-one, anywhere up to now has just 'given' away a 'correct & working' schematic to an O.U. device.  I do not believe this case to be any different with Akula.

Anyhow, I find it interesting that the sim will show a 'working' feedback loop with the LEDs lit-up.

I realize it is just a sim, but it is promising........

take care, peace.
lost_bro
   

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Dear Peterae.

RMC PWM pdf file attached.

See page 5 please. I might be near an outcome !!  O0

Cheers Grum.


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Nanny state ? Left at the gate !! :)
   

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OK
Basically this board seems to use a FET that is switched, so you could connect this board in place of the FET on the test circuit.
but without a beefy flyback diode which Akule does not use then you may find the PWM board starts tripping on voltage and/or current.

It's not easy driving the gate of the Akula FET from your PWM board because the PWM pulls the L- to gnd, and to turn on the Akula fet we need to pull high.

   

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Right the only way i can think of driving the Akula fet gate, is to connect your PWM L- to the gate and connect a pull up resistor from the gate to V+

This way the pull up resistor will turn the fet on, and when the PWM L- get's pulled to gnd then it will also pull the Akula fet gate to gnd, maybe use a 33 ohm in series from the PWM to the gate.

I am not sure what value of pull up resistor to use, maybe try 1K and if the turn off is slow and horrible then decrease the value.
Maybe someone more capable would throw a couple of values.

One thing to note if you do this, you must make sure your PWM is functioning before power up the Akula board, because if the PWM is not on then your Akula fet will be constantly turned on and sparks will fly very fast.
   
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