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Author Topic: Controller No5 With Protection - Looking for Explosions  (Read 204605 times)
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Hi,
Is your bifilar wound up as a pair of wires side by side (twisted) or have you constructed the
coils with 2 identical singles but physically spaced on the former to create an angular displacement? (the start for each coil is some degrees apart on the former)
Im assuming its a torus former. The origins of the 'original device' had coils spaced and this came to mind as a possible component for your success.
The interest here will go on an exponential increase if just one second of excess energy is created.
Be safe.
Steve.

   

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I agree the next stage is to try and capture some energy and will start what G say's

OK so let's build a 6 inch coil.

Now G you are saying a central conductor with 24volts dc running through it at a few mA, how long is this conductor and how thin, that seems like a lot of voltage with little current to push through i single conductor, so we are talking many turns of this conductor?

You then say wind the bifilar around this equally distanced away from the conductor, i need to think how to do this it's not so easy to keep the distance equal within say 1mm, i need some sort of foam frame around the central conductor to do this.

The central conductor needs to 2 things it needs to be biased but also act as a load, so could i maybe place a bulb in series so this lights with the 24vdc applied and watch it's brightness as the kicks are started up.

You mention a compass, i have just ordered 5 of these.

Diagrams and sketches are welcome :) any ideas on construction of the outer bifilar are also welcome.



One stout loop for the core.  You must maintain a circular magnetic field around the core with this configuration.  The static magnetic field must be perpendicular to the radial force from the kick and also perpendicular to the direction of propagation of the radial force (wether just propagating or rotating) and perpendicular to the conductor being induced.  Lay all this on a paper and you will see that you have a couple of different ways you can go depending on how you place the static field and collector.

For a quick test, you can stick two wires into the coil - right into the side of it so the ends are inside the coil - one toward the top and one toward the bottom (stacked but separated), add a static mag field (with a magnet) - place it under the coil - and see what you can measure with a high impedance meter or probe.  Don't expect anything spectacular, just an indication.

a moving divergence (charge), bound or not (dielectric or conductor), produces a magnetic field - hence the compass - this is a current as long as it is moving and has to be perpendicular to the collector and the static mag field to cause particle precession in the collector (conduction current)

you can try using LEDS placed around and into the coil space as well or small bulbs (never tried it - just thought of it)

   

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A single loop for the inner core, then that sounds easier, if i make it first as a long straight wire for the core then use pipe over this and wind my bifilar over this pipe and then bend the whole thing into a circle to form a toroid then would that do, i am just thinking of construction techniques here and that would be the easiest, but is that config what you are saying as i'm having trouble understanding exactly what you are saying.
   

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Yes.
   

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OK G thanks that what i thought, i will work on doing exactly this.
   

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I'll work on a diagram.
   

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that will be great G
I'm working on the coil
   

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OK I have 3 sizes of hose each fits inside the other this makes a nice thick walled hose with all 3 inside each other.

Realistically the inside diameter of the toroid will be about 20-21 cm diameter, the largest hose is 15mm outside diameter, the inside hose is 3mm inside diameter, which i can push an insulated 2.5mm copper wire into or is this too stout.
   

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OK I have 3 sizes of hose each fits inside the other this makes a nice thick walled hose with all 3 inside each other.

Realistically the inside diameter of the toroid will be about 20-21 cm diameter, the largest hose is 15mm outside diameter, the inside hose is 3mm inside diameter, which i can push an insulated 2.5mm copper wire into or is this too stout.

what kind of hose?  you need something like a foam dielectric that is easily penetrated like in some coax cables

you can use plastic (or cardboard) sheet rings fixed to inside and outside of the core coil and then roll palstic strips for the top and bottom to make four "ribs" around the core coil

   

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no problem G i will go to plan B Carboard formers.
   

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no problem G i will go to plan B Carboard formers.

ouch!  I used to make little cardboard/paper space ships when I was in elementary school.

Funny how SM's cork-looking-stuff makes sense now.  Still wondering how he came to his conclusions.
   

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You could also cut styrofoam rings and fit the core coil into the center - foam ring could be square-ish with core coil in center surrounded by foam.  I would not go with anything much denser than this.  Might be easier than flat forms.
   
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this is supposed to be correct
15" 2.7 turns collector attention to the collector outs being overlapped by the controls which are 3 and  turn for turn on top of each other , all tinned multistrand wire
« Last Edit: 2010-06-20, 13:47:27 by Lindsay »
   

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this is supposed to be correct
15" 2.7 turns collector attention to the collector outs being overlapped by the controls which are 3 and  turn for turn on top of each other , all tinned multistrand wire

That makes sense. 

Why is the collector in series rather than three in parallel?

   
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G, they are not terminated in the picture.

I may make another collector section to get 3  but 1 should be enough to see something in the centre wire for the sake of Petare's great work .

That is IF the popping still occours with this config. Im optomistic about it .

Seperate dc supply to the collector just might allow a measurable current increase rather than a high voltage.
The black stuff is plastic lawn edging. Easy to use and form ,but im sure will be usless as far as heat goes .. walk first!
 
« Last Edit: 2010-06-20, 13:47:57 by Lindsay »
   

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Thanks for the info Lindsay.
Not sure i can visualize exactly how you have wound the wires in the above pictures.

I am not sure that the wire length is so critical for the way i am producing the kick.

Over the last few days i have mentally been refining a much better design to achieve my controller, i am pretty much down to 1 8 pin pic and a couple of fet's , i also believe i can easily control the power level in code, i also think i can do away with the delay chips now as well, but need to spend some time on the dev.
Offcourse it's all down to energy capture to see if it's viable.

So first i need to try capturing the energy and hopefully it's going to be easy to provide feedback to the system for controll purposes.

Anyway onto coil design, i am going to make the first one as simple as possible, i will play today and see how it goes.
   

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First Coil 163mm center wire diameter.
I used the inner wire and insulation from a TV coax lead stripped of the coax copper sheath, then wound a bifilar over the top.

   

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First Kicks  ;D

I am getting the crackling nicely now in the new coil, if i scope across the center wire i am getting 50-80 volts fast spikes in a random fashion this is unbiased and unloaded.

If i place a 20 Ohm resistor straight across the center wire the kicks seem to go -/+20volts

I make those kicks @ 80Watt spikes

The below video is of the center wire unloaded, the scope is 10v/div

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUNvmPGdgzI[/youtube]
   

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It's not as complicated as it may seem...
Looks good Peter.

Is this with white noise drive to the toroid (outside) coil?

.99
   

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I am using 2 white noise generators 1 for each fet stage.

I was going to take a video of it with the 20 Ohm load but it died after 3 or 4 minuets of running, looks like my non delayed fet has gone, i am only running at 33 volts coil supply.

yes all drive circuitry is outside on my controller pcb.
   

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Sorry misread your last question, yes the yellow wire is a bifilar wound down the length of inner coax core.
   

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tune for rotation - which may not occur with the white noise

make a compass with a needle floating on something in water - the water may also spin since it is polar

I think you need higher voltage but try what you have now
   

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The Effect is greater if i short the 2 bifilar's together but it increases the FET's going short  >:(

Tomorrow i will retry Poynt's cap and resistor in the gate drive circuit to see if it stops the dying fet's but keeps the effect happening.

I also tried the 120pf mica caps across the drain/source and as soon as i place even 1 on one of the 2 channels the effect stops.

Still waiting my compasses to arrive.
   

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The Effect is greater if i short the 2 bifilar's together but it increases the FET's going short  >:(

Tomorrow i will retry Poynt's cap and resistor in the gate drive circuit to see if it stops the dying fet's but keeps the effect happening.

I also tried the 120pf mica caps across the drain/source and as soon as i place even 1 on one of the 2 channels the effect stops.

Still waiting my compasses to arrive.

While interesting, the explosive sounds are not a requirement and may actually be a loss of energy from the system.

You need a sharp electric impulse, wether you create by an interaction of fields or apply it directly.  This creates a force that can cause the medium to move.  You then apply this force the medium to rotate it in a circle to create a sort of current.

Build a pulser that works reliably to produce the highest pulse that you can, crackles or not.
   
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Sorry. Can't see pics on this phone.
Is the output mostly one side of zero?
Is your estimated watts out considering the off times?

Since the cap kills it I suspect 'no' is the answer to both.

Welcome to perpendicular induction 8:) or 'squeezing the hose'.

   
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