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Author Topic: Experiments and Anomalies  (Read 133187 times)

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Ok,here is my first go at the SJR looper using the smaller core's.Im not using the specified diode's or transistor,but it's in the low uA draw,and work's. Not sure the 3 diode's between the base and collector are needed,but LED direction is very important. But shortly after the video,while trying different diode's,i dropped the pot on the concrete,and it broke into 4 pieces-good thing i have another.

But once again,i got side tracked after finding my MOT coil i used on my window motor. The video you will see next here (from me) ,will open some eye's i think.

Chet-it started raining as soon as i cranked up the camera-what have you done to me lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLGWVaBvncg


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Well after a couple of hour's and one broken pot core later,i put the SJR looper aside,and tried my luck at a modified cool joule setup.Next is to build a light box,and run some test on light output power between the MEG_GA JOULE,and straight DC of the same P/in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frLw8lA6lxM


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This picture was taken at 1h 45m run time.As you can see,the 9 LED's are still clearly lit. What i would like to know is-is there any way that the 50 HTz main's could be feeding in power to the system without the scope seeing it? I did turn of the power to the work shop from the isolation switch in the meter box for about 10 minute's,and seen no change in voltage drop rate in the cap. But i would like to eliminate the possibility completely. Do i just do an L.S ,and put it in the microwave oven?.


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 O0
The light output is very nice indeed.
So it's a Cool Joule standard circuit, but joined windings and both batteries become the cap ?

I'm going to go the other way for coil size and use 2x dancing flower tiny ones. They worked great on your original circuit.

Chuck it in the microwave outside at dusk or with cardboard or something over the oven so the light can be seen, that will remove thoughts ?
I know you used to have half a forest at the other place, so maybe there's an area well away from wiring.


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Chet-it started raining as soon as i cranked up the camera-what have you done to me lol.
--------------------------------------

now thats Funny............

Told you It Should be    " Rain Man " not TinMan...........

those who may not have followed some of TinMan's more Aggressive and exotic experiments  [lightning in a bottle and others ]

More times than not it would start to rain as soon as he fired up the Device under test [DUT]

 actually I do believe it is no coincidence ...............

thx
Chet
   
   
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@Chet - Post #21 of this very thread ;)
Reputation, legend, quirk or a sign of OU who knows lol


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@ Slider
It would seem that there is a magnetic attraction to those 3 down thumber's to pulse lighting circuit's-as they now have joined my video's. I guess those that cant do-dont like.

Although i use a much larger cap than that of L.S setup,and my run time is much shorter,i get a much better light output-but looks can be deceiving.Taking the setup out side in the dark to use it as a torch,i cant see sh-t with it. So no good as a torch yet. you can read a book under the light,but with a bit of eye strain to go with it. So although it looks bright when looking straight into it,and it shine's nice on the work bench,i wouldnt yet really call it usable light.

Now the strange thing to me is,there is no ringing across the coil-the wave is nice and square.I would have thought there would be ringing,as the LED is directly across the run coil,which would normally cause a feedback loop into the run coil when coupled to the trigger coil like it is.

Below is the simple schematic for the circuit. May try a pot on the base to see if we can tune it a bit better.
« Last Edit: 2014-05-18, 04:40:40 by TinMan »


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@Chet - Post #21 of this very thread ;)
Reputation, legend, quirk or a sign of OU who knows lol

Reputation-dont want one.
Legend-well hopefully to my children,when im gone.
Quirk-been many of them in my time.
OU-one can only wish.

Nothing more than shear coincidence,as most of my time in the work shop is when it's to crappy out side to work.


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@TinMan - Ha fair enough...it is a seemingly odd phenomenon to us viewers though. Bit of fun and mild ribbing :)
Thanks for the schematic.

I put together one of the Cool Joule circuits from last year. 2x 'dancing flower' coils, C1815 GR transistor. Removed the charging battery and used a 2200uF cap to run it. It did 'ring' along for 2 min 30 sec, but needs a lot of changes. It does the LS brightening by touching the Base with a finger, increasing run time of visible light and brightness with how much pressure is applied.
Also found one of those 9 LED lights and might similarly hacksaw it. Being as solar garden lights run better on 3 LED's than 1 (for current draw) then it may be beneficial to run with whatever is the most efficient number of parallel LED's.
I'll replace the 1N4004 with a 1N914A, but also look at maybe a germanium bridge rectifier to make use of that original 2nd battery placement and send it back into the run cap.

(btw, bit of a laugh. I originally wrote 'germanium bride rectifier' by mistake.
"Listen honey, i'm just not happy with how you are after we got married".
That's maybe why some guys buy their ladies flowers - germaniums = geraniums
Give her flowers as a geranium bride rectifier !)


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@TinMan - Ha fair enough...it is a seemingly odd phenomenon to us viewers though. Bit of fun and mild ribbing :)
Thanks for the schematic.

I put together one of the Cool Joule circuits from last year. 2x 'dancing flower' coils, C1815 GR transistor. Removed the charging battery and used a 2200uF cap to run it. It did 'ring' along for 2 min 30 sec, but needs a lot of changes. It does the LS brightening by touching the Base with a finger, increasing run time of visible light and brightness with how much pressure is applied.
Also found one of those 9 LED lights and might similarly hacksaw it. Being as solar garden lights run better on 3 LED's than 1 (for current draw) then it may be beneficial to run with whatever is the most efficient number of parallel LED's.
I'll replace the 1N4004 with a 1N914A, but also look at maybe a germanium bridge rectifier to make use of that original 2nd battery placement and send it back into the run cap.

(btw, bit of a laugh. I originally wrote 'germanium bride rectifier' by mistake.
"Listen honey, i'm just not happy with how you are after we got married".
That's maybe why some guys buy their ladies flowers - germaniums = geraniums
Give her flowers as a geranium bride rectifier !)
I found one of them bride rectifier's Slider.


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The next video on the MEG-GA JOULE.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVVBF91sd6o


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Lithium button cell was originally under top hat, then moved into LED metal housing and not inverted for inspection in second video.

Edit:-

I completely missed where TinMan inverts the LED housing to reveal no battery - thanks Groundloop for posting a clip of this. So, I'm a little happier now that TinMan's device is genuine.

Hoppy
« Last Edit: 2014-05-18, 21:00:32 by Hoppy »
   
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@ Slider
It would seem that there is a magnetic attraction to those 3 down thumber's to pulse lighting circuit's-as they now have joined my video's. I guess those that cant do-dont like.

Although i use a much larger cap than that of L.S setup,and my run time is much shorter,i get a much better light output-but looks can be deceiving.Taking the setup out side in the dark to use it as a torch,i cant see sh-t with it. So no good as a torch yet. you can read a book under the light,but with a bit of eye strain to go with it. So although it looks bright when looking straight into it,and it shine's nice on the work bench,i wouldnt yet really call it usable light.

Now the strange thing to me is,there is no ringing across the coil-the wave is nice and square.I would have thought there would be ringing,as the LED is directly across the run coil,which would normally cause a feedback loop into the run coil when coupled to the trigger coil like it is.

Below is the simple schematic for the circuit. May try a pot on the base to see if we can tune it a bit better.

TinMan,

Can you check you circuit drawing one more time. 2N3055 is a NPN transistor and you have connected the
emitter of the transistor to the plus side of your capacitor. Did you draw the electrolytic capacitor upside down?

Also, can you check your LED lamp to see how the LEDs are connected together? Are all the LEDs in parallel?
Added: Now I can see from the video that all 9 LEDs are in parallel.

Added: By looking at the video I get the attached circuit diagram. TinMan can you confirm that I got the drawing right?

GL.
« Last Edit: 2014-05-18, 18:32:48 by Groundloop »
   
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Here are some numbers you can use to qualify your designs.
They are continuous mode operation rather than pulse mode.

Also these tests are far below the actual Lumens the LED's are capable of, I'm just measuring at the threshold or lower subjective level of light since no one seems to be quantifying and integrating actual light power delivered vs. power usage.

A single bright white LED (old one I had laying around):

3 uA       3V        0.009 mW           Just Visible
10uA      3.3V      0.033 mW           Definitely Visible
100 uA   3.8V      0.38 mW             Bright
1000uA  4.12V     4.12 mW            Very Bright

A cluster LED array like Tinmans latest video:

2uA        3.27V     0.0065mW          Just Visible
10uA      3.42V     0.0342mW          Definitely Visible
100uA    3.53V     0.353mW            Bright but not evenly lit
1000uA  3.69V     3.69mW              Very Bright and fairly even distribution

You can calculate the energy in a 1000 uF  or 3300 uF capacitor charged to a given voltage and divide it by the required power
to see if you are exceeding expected run time and tapping any unknown source.

The problem is that in pulse mode e.g with a duty cycle of 10% on time a LED operated at 100 uA peak will look bright yet only be drawing 10uA average so this must be factored in when computing run times.

I have already done the calculations and run times seem to be right in the same order of magnitude that people are getting e.g. Lasersaber.

E=1/2CV^2

Let's apply a little simple math and see if anything unusual is happening.

I'm going to rerun these numbers using pulse mode, 10% duty cycle.

Can someone else verify the numbers?
« Last Edit: 2014-05-18, 19:32:37 by ION »


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Lithium button cell was originally under top hat, then moved into LED metal housing and not inverted for inspection in second video.

Edit:-

I completely missed where TinMan inverts the LED housing to reveal no battery - thanks Groundloop for posting a clip of this. So, I'm a little happier now that TinMan's device is genuine.

Hoppy

No-there was no button cell-no batteries at all.
Quote:  I'm a little happier now that TinMan's device is genuine.

No no no-TinMans device is NOT genuine-and that was the whole purpose of the video's.
The thing is,people put so much trust in video's they see on youtube-as i mentioned in the second video.Then what follows is hour's of replicating at who knows what cost.There is simply no way that LED could be lit that bright from a 1000uf cap for that long.The scope shot from the first video showing the voltage/time on the LED should have made this evident-well that was my hope.

Yes GL,the cap is upsidedown-my mistake


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No-there was no button cell-no batteries at all.
Quote:  I'm a little happier now that TinMan's device is genuine.

No no no-TinMans device is NOT genuine-and that was the whole purpose of the video's.
The thing is,people put so much trust in video's they see on youtube-as i mentioned in the second video.Then what follows is hour's of replicating at who knows what cost.There is simply no way that LED could be lit that bright from a 1000uf cap for that long.The scope shot from the first video showing the voltage/time on the LED should have made this evident-well that was my hope.

Yes GL,the cap is upsidedown-my mistake


Good job there TinMan! Akula has much to learn from the Master  O0
   

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Who's to say the large caps aren't drilled out then a battery inserted?


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ION:
Quote
I have already done the calculations and run times seem to be right in the same order of magnitude that people are getting e.g. Lasersaber.

E=1/2CV^2

Let's apply a little simple math and see if anything unusual is happening.

I'm going to rerun these numbers using pulse mode, 10% duty cycle.

Can someone else verify the numbers?

Wait -- where are your numbers/calculations for LaserSaber's 5 HOUR run with TWO LED's running from a 1000 uF cap?  I don't see these.

NOTE: He just taps the cap with a 9-V battery, so less than 9V in the cap at the start is likely...  But conservatively, we can take 9V in the cap, then the stored energy is:


E=1/2CV^2 = 1/2 1000uF (81)   = 40.5 mJ   , if I'm not mistaken.  So the two LED's are run for 5 hours on that, or roughly

40.5 mJ/ 5*3600s = 2.3 uW   (average)


Would this even be visible?  

Also, since the initial voltage is squared, it would be very helpful if LS would measure the starting voltage, so we can accurately determine E(initial) stored in the cap.  For example, if Vin is 7 volts after the battery-tap, then I get:

E=1/2CV^2 = 1/2 1000uF (49)   = 24500 uJ     So the two LED's are run for 5 hours on that, or roughly

40.5 mJ/ 5*3600s = 1.4 uW   (average).

   
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  LIGHT CALORIMETER

   Some of you will recall the light calorimeter that I (and a few others) built years ago, to measure light output as a way to measure power output, assuming other losses (such as heat in the transistor) were minimal or could be neglected.   This could be done in this case, too, but is a bit tricky with the pulsed output of the LED's.  I have a light meter and could build another reflective light-box...  Would 10% duty cycle on an LED show 1/10th the output brightness as 100% duty cycle -- as measured by the light meter?
   
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From Physics Professor:

Quote
Wait -- where are your numbers/calculations for LaserSaber's 5 HOUR run with TWO LED's running from a 1000 uF cap?  I don't see these.

Yes that's because I did not include them (though I did the math).

I just did a little groundwork hoping the guys would also make some additional measurements besides just runtime.

I thought LS used a 3300 uF and 9 volt battery (which can be over 10 volts fresh) Maybe I didn't see his latest.
This would give around 165 mJ.

Quote
NOTE: He just taps the cap with a 9-V battery, so less than 9V in the cap at the start is likely...  But conservatively, we can take 9V in the cap, then the stored energy is:

The capacitor will charge very rapidly considering the low internal resistance of the (Alkaline) cell, 150 to 300 milliohms.
With  the higher value and using a 3300uF cap, you can estimate approximately one time constant (63.2%) per millisecond. It would be very hard to guess how long he taps it, best to try it yourself, but a 4 mS tap gets you 98% of voltage.


Currently I am doing some light measurements using a very sensitive Photodyne light power meter to quantify actual light power output.

One test I did reduced the duty cycle to about 1%, measured power input was kept at 0.009 mW yet the LED looked to the eye as if it were being driven with the higher 0.033 mW level. Note that this is far below the 0.1 Watt rating of the LED

The LED's  at the threshold of visibility can be driven with a very sharp narrow pulse where the average power is extremely low, but the peak power is much higher.

The problem is it may shorten the LED life and rapidly degrade it's light output.



« Last Edit: 2014-05-19, 00:55:22 by ION »


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No-there was no button cell-no batteries at all.
Quote:  I'm a little happier now that TinMan's device is genuine.

No no no-TinMans device is NOT genuine-and that was the whole purpose of the video's.
The thing is,people put so much trust in video's they see on youtube-as i mentioned in the second video.Then what follows is hour's of replicating at who knows what cost.There is simply no way that LED could be lit that bright from a 1000uf cap for that long.The scope shot from the first video showing the voltage/time on the LED should have made this evident-well that was my hope.

Yes GL,the cap is upsidedown-my mistake

If it's not; then why purport that it is?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsorE1JD7HM  1000uf; only several seconds though... 

your scheme doesn't work nearly so well...
But I guess then it doesn't matter what the inductance of your coils are.

   
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No-there was no button cell-no batteries at all.
Quote:  I'm a little happier now that TinMan's device is genuine.

No no no-TinMans device is NOT genuine-and that was the whole purpose of the video's.
The thing is,people put so much trust in video's they see on youtube-as i mentioned in the second video.Then what follows is hour's of replicating at who knows what cost.There is simply no way that LED could be lit that bright from a 1000uf cap for that long.The scope shot from the first video showing the voltage/time on the LED should have made this evident-well that was my hope.

Yes GL,the cap is upsidedown-my mistake


Its interesting that everything was telling me your device was a fake, especially the square waveform. However, you coming over as an honest type of guy must have clouded my judgement to give you the benefit of my doubt. As you so rightly say, it should have been obvious to us all that 9 LED's could not possibly have stayed illuminated at that level or a lot less for so long on a 1000uF cap. There is so much crap on the internet and we all get exposed to it, with some getting sucked into believing it big time, like small fry into the sharks mouth!

Do you intend to tell us how you did it with no batteries?

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A little role reversal:

Have you ever been really frustrated  trying to decipher and replicate a device in a video, spending time away from your family or friends because you were being deceived.

Have you ever felt the anger for the wasted time when you found out it was a fake?

The video in question was picked up on the featured video page on Stefan's site OU.com. This will be viewed by tens of thousands, maybe a few hundred will spend the time trying to decipher the video and build it.

They may never see the disclaimer over here, and spend valuable time trying to replicate, only to be frustrated and angry at the end of the day.

Who bears the Karmic responsibility for such acts?

There are ripples in life, be careful what ripples you make.

Deceit is like casting a bag of feathers to the wind, will you be able to gather them all up again?.

"Oh what a tangled web you weave when first you practice to deceive"

I would caution anyone entertaining it to refrain from this type of activity.


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My intent was never to decieve,it was to show that what you see ,isnt always what you get-like the Akula device that this device was to simulate. If my intent was to decieve,then i wouldnt be here now telling you all it dose not work with the part's depicted in the device.All parts are correct,and the square wave is exactly what the device put's out. Everything is as is except the cap-which is a 5f 2.7 volt cap,with a 1000uf cover.I told many people what i was up to ,and why.The 3rd video will show everything as it is-but as i work 14 hours a day,i havnt had time to make that video yet.

I told two people here what i was up to,and many more else where so no deceit was my intention. I will be doing these sort's of video's with every new so called OU device that come's out now,simply to show people how easly these true deciever's could be doing it.

I too have spent many hour's,and a whole lot of money chasing my tail on these so called OU devices,and now my goal is the show just how easy the result's can be had,and how easy it is to hide thing's.


I know a lot of people wont like the way i went about it,but thats the way it's going to be-but i will always show how it was done,and let you all know that it is a moke up-a fake. I also stated very clearly on the video-you seen it on you tube,it must be real.I have also made clear on the OU forum what it was all about,and not to waste your time on it.

My intention was never to decieve,and it never will be.But i had to make it sound and look as real as i could-just like Akula did.


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