I would love to get Tk,tin man slider et al thoughts on laser saber latest
http://youtu.be/1RXolkA08uk
From the description
Published on Apr 28, 2015I have made some more progress with the SJR L circuit. I have some more pot cores coming to test different sizes and materials. I think I need to go back and test using the copper foil within the coil instead of the air capacitor. Those of you who have followed this project will know what I am talking about.
Schematic coming soon at: http://laserhacker.com/
Ready made prototypes at Tesla Maker: http://teslamaker.com/
Quote from: JimBoot on 2015.05.01, 08:18:08
I would Tk,tin man slider et al thoughts on laser saber latest
http://youtu.be/1RXolkA08uk
From the description
Published on Apr 28, 2015I have made some more progress with the SJR L circuit. I have some more pot cores coming to test different sizes and materials. I think I need to go back and test using the copper foil within the coil instead of the air capacitor. Those of you who have followed this project will know what I am talking about.
Schematic coming soon at: http://laserhacker.com/
Ready made prototypes at Tesla Maker: http://teslamaker.com/
Watching the video,it looks like that is one of his shortest run times ever. Im not seeing what all the fuss is about Jim?. How is it that his little easy spin motor ran for such a long time on a much smaller cap than this circuit did. I watched cool joules video on the easy spin motor he recieved from LS,and it wouldnt run for more than 30 seconds after spin up. It seems that LS is the only one that can get these extra long run times with these circuit's,and have the LED's so bright,while the rest of us that build the exact circuit's,or recieve one of LS's pre built setups just can get those sort of run times with those sort of results? :-\
Quote from: TinMan on 2015.05.01, 08:32:45
Watching the video,it looks like that is one of his shortest run times ever. Im not seeing what all the fuss is about Jim?. How is it that his little easy spin motor ran for such a long time on a much smaller cap than this circuit did. I watched cool joules video on the easy spin motor he recieved from LS,and it wouldnt run for more than 30 seconds after spin up. It seems that LS is the only one that can get these extra long run times with these circuit's,and have the LED's so bright,while the rest of us that build the exact circuit's,or recieve one of LS's pre built setups just can get those sort of run times with those sort of results? :-\
I've never built one so I was wondering if this was significant. Thanks for the feedback.
It all goes back to Russian circuit replicated by Delamorto and others..
The principle is same like you see in Dally/akula/Ruslan circuits where static EMP is mixed with magnetic field on coil just in this case is on small scale.
Might be worth trying lasersaber circuit but with some modifications for proper 2 impulses mixing instead of single transistor auto generator type.
Am just watching it now Gromit.
I did find something very interesting, with a replication the other day of his Tesla Torch circuit.
It was fascinating to find that only 1 coil was needed, not both and then no transistor !
The modded circuit is hyper simple, for very long run times - Just connect a 1000uH axial inductor in series from 1 battery/cap connection, then through the 3 LED's to the other power connection and have a 330uF cap across power input. 6 minutes run when simply spiking quickly with a 9V battery.
Middle LED fades out, then one side and then the other carries on. Finishing measured voltage was 4.39V on the cap, plenty left.
Anyway, back to the vid :)
Quote from: Slider2732 on 2015.05.01, 17:43:00
Am just watching it now Gromit.
I did find something very interesting, with a replication the other day of his Tesla Torch circuit.
It was fascinating to find that only 1 coil was needed, not both and then no transistor !
Middle LED fades out, then one side and then the other carries on. Finishing measured voltage was 4.39V on the cap, plenty left.
Anyway, back to the vid :)
QuoteThe modded circuit is hyper simple, for very long run times - Just connect a 1000uH axial inductor in series from 1 battery/cap connection, then through the 3 LED's to the other power connection and have a 330uF cap across power input. 6 minutes run when simply spiking quickly with a 9V battery.
Which one is this Mark?
That was a great little circuit there. Reminded of Av plug with an inductor. Very lovely work Wallace. I see we have a new princess overlord this morning too.
Ah forgot to post the video here.
The actual run time is about an hour, before the last LED finally goes out.
It then has 4.3V left on the 470uF cap.
As pointed out by an unhelpful/helpful commenter, it's similar to a resistor in how it runs...but it's not a resistor now is it ? lol
The measured inductor resistance is 11 ohms, thought i'd check.
The finger capacitance re-fire got me though, how it can seemingly all finish and yet will relatively strongly run again by doing that.
Mark
can you post a link to the Vid ?
I get a blank screen on your above Vid
thx
Quote from: TinMan on 2015.05.01, 08:32:45
Watching the video,it looks like that is one of his shortest run times ever. Im not seeing what all the fuss is about Jim?. How is it that his little easy spin motor ran for such a long time on a much smaller cap than this circuit did. I watched cool joules video on the easy spin motor he recieved from LS,and it wouldnt run for more than 30 seconds after spin up. It seems that LS is the only one that can get these extra long run times with these circuit's,and have the LED's so bright,while the rest of us that build the exact circuit's,or recieve one of LS's pre built setups just can get those sort of run times with those sort of results? :-\
That's interesting, I wasn't aware that others, using the same circuit, weren't duplicating his results. I should know more in a week or so.
I did however make a modification to the "sooper looper" circuit some time ago that is verrry interesting...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjgemF5zpeE
Quote from: Slider2732 on 2015.05.02, 17:50:42
Ah forgot to post the video here.
The actual run time is about an hour, before the last LED finally goes out.
It then has 4.3V left on the 470uF cap.
As pointed out by an unhelpful/helpful commenter, it's similar to a resistor in how it runs...but it's not a resistor now is it ? lol
The measured inductor resistance is 11 ohms, thought i'd check.
The finger capacitance re-fire got me though, how it can seemingly all finish and yet will relatively strongly run again by doing that.
Actually.... if it's not oscillating, working only on DC, then the inductor might as well be a resistor. Your scope will tell you if it's oscillating or not!
May I suggest that you make another identical circuit except instead of the inductor, you simply put 11 ohms of actual resistors in series with the LEDs and compare the performance of that circuit with the present one? You may find that they work the same. Or not.... but that's why we do actual experiments that compare conditions in order to test hypotheses.
I suppose it's possible that the nonlinear action of the LEDs near their threshold voltages could be producing an oscillation in combination with the inductor and capacitor ... a scopeshot would be nice to see.
About a year ago, I made this video: (turn down your speakers, the "noise" is kind of loud)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GiLVBBdT_uk
Run time appears shorter because instead of dissipating power visibly in three LEDS, it's going into heating the resistor instead.
Here you go Chet:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdCGlLgNNcQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdCGlLgNNcQ)
(it's on my regular YouTube channel as 'Public').
The presumption has been no oscillations TK, unless it was refiring in some extraordinary manner from mains in the air or some such. But then, what exactly could be firing, there being no transistor. So, no delusions there, but interesting to witness something other than a resistor, labeled as such, doing resistor things for a long running time. Any coil is a resistor of course.
Resistors and LED's have had me caught out a couple of times in the past...one time where a homebuilt synthesizer was switched off at the wall and the LED trundled on brightly for an hour or similar. It was merely draining from the large smoothing caps and whatnot of the (poorly designed) power supply. But, there indeed a simple resistor was doing the eye candy. Having limited the brightness in any case, it kept the LED at the same brightness for that unexpected run.
With better design, it wouldn't have been a surprise, but the focus was on sound.
A 10ohm was tried and does display similar traits. I'd never have thought that such a low value would do that.
The scope does indeed show a flat trace.
I guess we're all used to knowing that a small cap will deplete straight away with an LED across it. So, when that doesn't happen, it's all very exciting. However, no LED is running at top whack output in any circuit seen or experimented with so far, that I can determine. Factor in more efficient running with the right frequency for the LED itself and things do get interesting for efficiency.
Tuning that frequency to a specific LED, from a specific manufacturer, is something I haven't seen done yet...anywhere.
Mark:
Quote
I guess we're all used to knowing that a small cap will deplete straight away with an LED across it. So, when that doesn't happen, it's all very exciting.
I agree and appreciate your inquisitiveness, Mark!
Can you get the simple circuit to work using a toroidal inductor? There are some tests that can be done with a toroid in place, if this can work...
Thanks Steve, seems it was a case of error though, with not realising that 10ohms could have such an effect.
As a non oscillating system, the toroid ought to work just fine...the resistance of the wire being operative. However, that's not to say that a transistor firing on a second wind of that toroid wouldn't be beneficial. Interesting to think about.
I thought I'd throw together a rough approximation of a replication.
I didn't have a pot core so I wound a 200 turn outer secondary of #34 onto an existing 7.5mH Litz-wound choke from an old TV chassis. I can't find my old air variable capacitor and all my little variable trimcaps are used in other stuff, and I hate to take working stuff apart. So I experimented with some fixed caps and finally settled on a 180 pF mica cap in place of the air variable. The diode is 1n34a germanium, but I intend to try a Schottky 1n5817 or 1n5711 in there soon. I also changed the electrolytic cap to 1000uF, but 470uF works fine too, just not as long.
This thing is really weird. It has about 5 different modes of operation, depending on what you touch with fingers, how much charge is left, and other stuff. It does run with dim LEDs for long time. But the LEDs can be made to get _very_ bright (but for less time) by touching the right stuff at the right time.
Like many JT variants, it continues to oscillate even after the LEDs have gone out, and they can be turned back on by touching the circuit in certain places.
Here's a pic showing a "touch-bright Mode 3" action, and a scopeshot of typical dimmer "Mode 1" behaviour, after running for about 5 minutes on a momentary 9v chargeup. With a small supercap this thing would run brightly for many minutes.
I should have better materials to play with in a few days, hopefully, and it will be fun making comparisons, to see what matters and what doesn't matter in the construction.
Changed to the Schottky 1n5817 and the LEDs are a little brighter in "Mode 1" but now it won't do the superbright touch Mode 3.
Here's another shot, what I call Mode 2, which is running along with 9V power supply connected: When the PSU is disconnected, it reverts to Mode 1 as shown above. Then if I touch it in the right place it will go back to Mode 2. Sometimes it will shift into a continuous higher frequency sine wave oscillation, this is when it is about discharged to the point where the LEDs aren't glowing any more, but it is still oscillating and the LEDs can be brought back to life for a little while longer with the correct touch.
Very nice. Where does the diode go ? between positive and
^ scratch that, have just seen that he's posted the schematic :)
http://laserhacker.com/?p=491
Will build one.
In fact, I have 2x Litz TV coils (from neck board), have no 34 AWG but will try 40, 200 turns.
Kinda sounds like an aerial of some sort to me. Reminds me of holding onto the TV aerial with one foot up in the air so we could watch the cricket when I was a kid. Have you discounted electrosmog yet? Based on your other stuff I'm assume its on your list :)
One of few things to note there - if you put N-channel instead of npn transistor in http://laserhacker.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/SJRLV4.jpg and protect its gate from over voltage the need of touching might be not needed at all when initial voltage does not go over trigger level. After first pulse it should keep circuit oscillating and recharging cap from BEMF after each pulse.
Just I wonder how long it would run in that mode when there is no energy loss over base np junction an no galvanic current over transistor anymore... ;)
Cheers!
Well, I tried it with 2sk170 mosfet and it works, in that it definitely oscillates, and at first the LEDs are much brighter than they are with bipolar transistors, but it runs down very fast.
I can also confirm that my build of the circuit does light up in the presence of strong "electrosmog", but not nearly as well as the LariMan MC34063 circuit does.
I've also tried a few other inductors, since I don't have the right pot core on hand at the moment. My LEDs don't seem as bright as LaserSaber's and I'm only getting run times of tens of minutes perhaps, certainly not hours. But like many JTs the circuit continues to oscillate after the LEDs have gone out, and they can be brought back to "light" with the proper touching, but not for very long.
It will be interesting to compare what happens when I have the right core and windings. I really need to find my air variable capacitor, I guess, or get some more little plastic trimmers.
With the weekend upon us TK, you could do worse than go yard sailing.
Regular AM radios seem to have either 0-270pF or 0-512pF var caps in them.
I know i've nothing like the monster that LS used either...though, you could also do the aluminium on toilet roll type of var cap as an idea.
Quote from: TinselKoala on 2015.05.08, 20:40:51
It will be interesting to compare what happens when I have the right core and windings. I really need to find my air variable capacitor, I guess, or get some more little plastic trimmers.
I have one of those air caps around some where. I will have to find it,and measure it's capacitance.
Perhaps a bit of deserved flattery for TK, in the way of emulation.
I really like the 'bit of wood' building approach of the circuit shown above. It could allow for easy changing out of components, with everything being top mounted.
So, on finding a a circuitboard from an old TV remote, I built something similar :)
MPSA18, 512pF variable cap from an AM radio, germanium diode, 1000uF electrolytic.
Shown is a coil on test. TV circuitboard Litz coil + 200 wind 30AWG over it.
In practice, the variable cap doesn't seem to do much with this coil..but i'll be testing different configurations and the effects may well be more noticeable. The output is rather low from this one in any case.
Quote from: TinselKoala on 2015.05.08, 20:40:51
Well, I tried it with 2sk170 mosfet and it works, in that it definitely oscillates, and at first the LEDs are much brighter than they are with bipolar transistors, but it runs down very fast.
Thanks for reply, the mosfet has way much lower resistance so there is bigger power draw which drain capacitor faster and bigger BEMF spikes for feedback recovery. So it comes down down balancing circuit between power draw and recovery.
Also one thing I would like to see there like in Delamorto circuit - the foil as capacitor plate(the other one is output coil) on top of windings with another source of BEMF/electrostatic spikes and how it effects the output to LEDs. Just it gets to more complex circuit with 2 signals mixing on right time and right switching of on/off state for impulses to capacitor foil...
P.S> You can see this thing in attached prototype circuit from akula.
Cheers!
T-1000 I quite agree about the balance aspect.
The circuit I described above has been transformed into a super long runner....by virtue of its low output in original form
By adding just 1 wire, it now runs for over 2hrs on the 1000uF cap !
:D
The mod, is simply to connect a wire, from the negative rail to the top L2/LED's connection.
Whereas before, it would run for about 3 minutes, before fading off, it now has that incredibly extended time.
Best part, the light output remains basically the same, from start to around 1hr 10mins. Then, it fades and will sit again for about half an hour. The circuit is still running now, though barely a with a glimmer of light from the middle LED.
Voltage on the system, after 1hr 30mins was 6.79V, dropping by 1 millivolt per minute or so with the meter attached.
@slider: I'm a little confused, because your first circuit doesn't look like it complies with the LS V.4.0 schematic. The schematic shows the Base of the transistor connected to the coil AND to the cathode end of the LED string, and the other side of the coil is connected to the anode of the LED string AND the anode of the 1n34a diode. Whereas in your circuit it looks like you have just connected the Base to the coil, then the other side of the coil to the Cathode end of the LED string.
So ... Huh??
Fooey! I just blew all three of my blue LEDs trying to wire my board like yours!
Eek!
Blown LEDs are only good on sub volt circuits !
Have just checked and you're right. The reason being that I recall it didn't want to 'spark up' with different diodes. I changed to the germanium and it ran, but, along the way will have omitted the Base wire. A big sorry on that one !
If it's any consolation, i've ruined a couple of diodes from the copper rail heat..that stuff gets hot quick and stays hot.
Another thing that threw me out, was scope work. Check out the attached lol. I wanted to see what was coming into the Base, so attached to the negative rail and Base leg of the transistor. It came up as 179kHz, fair enough, but the trace was ridiculous. On 'Auto' it had set the channel to 1.00mV and was showing the oddest of screen image.
One thing being looked at today, is the size of the core and whether it impacts the run frequency.
Looks like it does.
I've made another circuit, to the correct schematic, to demonstrate the flickering now shown by a large pot core.
Light output is also very impressive when body capacitance is added. Rather than adjust the size of a variable capacitor, the thought would be that the grip strength on a flashlight body would lower and raise the output brightness.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzAO2xy876U (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzAO2xy876U)
Update
Changing over to a mini coil of finger nail size and 40AWG, the output becomes very unstable. It flashes, dips in stages, brightens on a whim and all sorts. A very handy size, but very random and finicky in output. Adding a plastic top to the var cap would help, but it sometimes goes from a stable output into a flash, or will dim then brighten anyway. I thought it may be a worn spot on the capacitor, but it does it throughout the travel.
In the vid, I say 1000uH, which should be 1000uF
2 minutes demo vid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxCWJpHZTyQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxCWJpHZTyQ)
Slider
What would happen to your lights if instead of touching the knob of the variable cap, you were to clip it to:
a) a wire running to earth ground, or
b) a wire running to a virtual ground (e.g., coil of wire)?
Bob
Well, that's certainly nothing like what I get when scoping the Base wrt Emitter (neg rail) of my board:
(I changed to White LEDs since I don't have 3 good Blue ones any more.... :'( and there is some difference in the waves using the White ones: higher peak voltages mostly.)
(The Auto setting can be a good place to start but I wouldn't always accept its "guess" as to what you want to be looking at... but in this case it does give me a stable view of that inductive ringing, still different from yours. I'm no big fan of the "auto" settings button on DSOs and rarely use it. )
By the way, the answer to the "mystery" of touching the negative battery pole to the circuit and it lighting up, is due to the hand touching the metal battery case; it's another case of capacitive coupling to the body. At least that's what I have determined with my construction.
TK - Will do some more scope runs for sure. That trumpet wave is quite the sight and it would be good to compare waveform traces.
Bob - here's a vid for you, of what was quite the interesting experiment. I added a large virtual ground to the variable cap.
A clue to its behaviour is "this is not the oscillator you are looking for".
http://youtu.be/x7GXcpJL2bE
1 min 40 sec video, it's 'processing' at the moment.
Hi Slider
Thanks for the demo and taking time to film and put it online. There's something special going on there! O0
Bob
Have enjoyed our chat on the video page itself Bob :)
Here's a quick video, though not mega quick (lol) of a run with a 10uF tantalum.
Lasts about 30 seconds on a slightly unconventional circuit.
The wiring is to the SJR 4.0, but added are 2x small heatsinks either side of the diode. In this configuration, the circuit runs fine for about 30 seconds on the 10uF. Touching both heatsinks after the run has finished, results in another couple of seconds of light,
Coil is a tiny choke, with 100+200 turns of 40AWG.
The diode here is a 0.5V drop heavy duty Schottky (I think), the legs look capable of passing a good few amps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOgCYBsU3x8
O0 O0
Hi Slider
Just a thought that I've been considering for a while with this setup - that it may be developed or tweaked to become a kind of open system. My thinking was that attaching a physical or virtual ground might help this along. A condition for this to take place, as I see it, is oscillation which approaches resonance (in windings). Bearden has made some helpful comments about the interaction of voltage spikes with the electrostatic environment over the years on video. I would argue that resonance optimizes this interaction. Some interesting comments have been made about resonance recently on this site as well.
FWIW
Bob
I agree Bob and that was a good 'FWIW' :)
A follow up video was uploaded last night, but sat as 'Processing' for over 2hrs...I went to bed.
The idea being to explore the heatsink interactions. To hopefully find ways of transmitting energies wirelessly, that feed back around and draw in feeder supplies such as 60Hz electrosmog.
Such as, it was noted that with a heatsink either side of the diode and at a particular distance apart, the circuit wouldn't fire up unless the table lamp was on ! When off it wouldn't stay running, on and it would.
The presumed virtual grounding of the body interactions actually work on the positive rail side, not the LED side (which is connected to the coil and therefore may be thought to be the side that would interact). That is in common with my CFL light powered circuits, where the virtual ground of a heatsink is connected to the positive input from the collection circuit and collector plate (a CD usually). But, this circuit has trouble firing up if the ineffective heatsink isn't present. Therefore it is needed and is doing something.
Dr. Stiffler explored matched heatsinks and their effects on his SEC circuits and this is showing similar results. 2x same aluminium heatsinks from Pentium 4 processors were used in my own tests at that time, but have since been lost...these 2 i'm using now aren't matched, but are at least partially effective.
Next will be scope runs where the 2 heatsinks are brought nearer and further apart...to see if anything happens at different distances of separation.
Here's that vid from last night, Fun and non scientific, after it was found that moving my coffee cup around affected the running of the circuit.
Water is a great energy transmitter and soaker, there are plenty of demo's where LED's on A/V plugs are shown lighting in a glass of water some distance from Slayer Exciters. In this vid, the placement of the coffee on top of a heatsink allows the hand interactions to be much further away from the heatsink and keep the circuit going.
In all, although the output isn't very bright and made dimmer by the table light being on, the 10uF tantalum runs the circuit for over 3 minutes :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OLJHbdc-j0
Hi Slider,
I love the videos that you have been sharing. The Coffee effect is great. You are getting some great run time for 10uF.
I will be sharing here more in the future. I have to get my work for the day finished first.
-LS
Welcome Lasersaber.
:o :)
Hey welcome aboard O0
Thanks. Your little gem is morphing somewhat in my own experiments, but is so much fun to find out about and explore the properties.
Latest, is to move toward exploring capacitive couplings.
So, rather than extend run times...i felt it to be a good idea to have an always running circuit.
The circuit can now run without any battery, no conventional power input.
Instead, i'm using an ambient energy scavenger to harvest from the table lamp.
Output from such a system can reach 30V unloaded, but there's not much of a current throughput - ideal !
The video is still processing (has happened often in the last few days, used to be almost instant).
It shows it up and running, easily replicable if wished. I would actually like to know how a real SJR 4.0, with correct Litz wire would run in comparison.
Perhaps an idea is to allow a charge up of a flashlight while sitting under a table light, to then be taken outdoors and used. It could be viewed as 'free energy' for the power source, if the light is on anyway. A well designed charging dock for the power transfer makes a good minds-eye route.
http://youtu.be/qmMj0LGgFo4
Great work slider. I would like to try running this circuit off an Electret.
Here's my latest build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxAE1tdbHXc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxAE1tdbHXc)
What do you all think about this:
http://www.wired.co.uk/news/archive/2012-03/09/230-percent-efficient-leds (http://www.wired.co.uk/news/archive/2012-03/09/230-percent-efficient-leds)
http://phys.org/news/2012-03-efficiency.html (http://phys.org/news/2012-03-efficiency.html)
Perhaps similar to the electret would be a piezo disc. They output high enough voltage spikes, enough to light an LED in any case. Flexing between the fingers works well, rather than the time honoured technique of hitting them with a blunt instrument. Mounted to the side of a flashlight could work, if indeed a disc charged a small cap.
Enjoyed the update video. Was entertaining to hear you run out of words while the circuit ran on and on.
The mode switches are an intriguing development, as is the move to the larger pot core.
Over here, i've found that the tiny 40AWG thing has worked best for my own latest development.. wireless electricity instead of running through the LEDs.
For some reason the circuit runs best with that tiny one than any other tried.
Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whl-EV0tpBw
(2min 40sec)
The circuit is running from the CFL output, out through a transmitting coil rather than through the LEDs, which run at just about the same brightness output as when directly wired into the circuit.
That itself was very surprising that the efficiency looks to be very high for the air-core transfer. Easy to do, just replace the LED's with 1x 1N4148 and a 24 turn coil, to complete the connection to the Base of the transistor. The receiver coil should approximate the transmitting coil and benefits from an approx 0.001uF capacitor across it.
The picowatt LED running points to frequency optimization, as well as heat characteristics. I do know that heating an LED makes photovoltaic properties increase, after having much fun with a lighter in the backyard one time !
Hitting exactly the right frequency is of great interest, to link with the reduction of input voltage on circuits such as the SJR L 4.
Neat series of demonstrations! I like the tuned coil approach. You could probably get more exact receiver coil matching by calculating the L and C values you need to match the "transmitter" frequency.
That is, you can use the measured inductance value of the coil to calculate the capacitor value needed to make the circuit resonant at the transmitter's frequency. Pick a stock value cap closest to what the calculation says, then you can fine tune by removing or adding wire to the coil. Or go the other way, start with a known capacitor value then calculate the inductance needed, then wind your coil to that inductance.
http://www.1728.org/resfreq.htm
I wonder about that big diode. I can't tell if it's a big SOD-64 package device. About 4.5 mm diameter "sphere"? Then that would be SOD-64 package style. Does it have any number markings on it? I have several that I've also pulled from CRT TVs, they say "3A" only.
The smaller but similar-looking BYV26 series of ultrafast rectifier diodes can also sometimes be found in the old circuit boards.
The photo below shows the difference in size.
@lasersaber
First I must say I enjoy watching your video's and your unbiased perspective as if to say...here it is, here is what it is doing and you can decide what you think is happening.
Not to get too far off topic, I was reading the link you posted to 230% efficient LED's and found this statement.
QuoteHowever, while MIT's diode puts out more than twice as much energy in photons as it's fed in electrons, it doesn't violate the conservation of energy because it appears to draw in heat energy from its surroundings instead. When it gets more than 100 percent electrically-efficient, it begins to cool down, stealing energy from its environment to convert into more photons.
I find it odd that Duncan said one of his battery charger circuits showed abnormal energy levels as well as cooling of the terminals. At which point he was criticized for making impossible claims and yet the article from MIT seems to suggest that it is very much possible under the right conditions. I just found it odd that two very similar claims by two different parties could be judged so differently.
In any case MIT has laid the foundation on which we may validate our progress and if they can extract extra energy from the environment then so can we. All the proof we need can be found in their words and I would be willing to bet there are many ways to produce similar results in any number of circuits.
Quote"Experiments directly confirm for the first time that this behaviour continues beyond the conventional limit of unity electrical-to-optical power conversion efficiency."
I should also note that many years ago I mentioned the fact there must be an electrical equivalent to the heat pump, hindsight is always 20/20. It relies on the fact that "heat" is actually EM energy as oscillations in matter and if an engineered field coupled to this EM energy producing a phase differential then energy must be transferred into the system as in any other resonant system. In fact all of what we falsely call thermodynamics relates directly to electromagnetic interactions in matter, there is no "thermo" because thermo is electodynamic in it's nature at the most fundamental level. Particle-fields do not have heat and it is the rate of oscillation of the particle-fields which we describe as heat.
AC
@TK - Trial and error is my usual and does need addressing. But, there are a few ball park ways of doing such things, after such a method has been the usual. It tends to be a case of using a variable cap, then matching to the approximate position of travel. I appreciate the advice :)
Yes indeed, that diode was a surprise. It's a BYM36C, had a look after you raised the point on the video. The datasheet says 1.22V drop, but it measured 0.519V on the multimeter and so was tried. It worked so well that it stayed put and wasn't even investigated for any numbers.
Huge fat legs and a datasheet full of out of bounds numbers would have seen it put to one side usually.
Perhaps the diode ties in with LS's comment in his video, about more current sometimes means better running. Maybe it is dropping 1.22V, but fast and with pinache lol
@AC - There's the point isn't it, if MIT says it's possible then people don't breathe as many garlic laden flame throwers at us guys !
I've no trouble with Duncans observations. Even an SSG here showed a couple of degrees of temperature difference on a MOSFET one time. Sure, it could have been the air of the rotor cooling the metal and legs of the MOSFET, but it has always given pause for thought.
It does stand to reason that if such measurements have never been taken, then presumption will rule.
@slider2732
Quote@AC - There's the point isn't it, if MIT says it's possible then people don't breathe as many garlic laden flame throwers at us guys !
I've no trouble with Duncans observations. Even an SSG here showed a couple of degrees of temperature difference on a MOSFET one time. Sure, it could have been the air of the rotor cooling the metal and legs of the MOSFET, but it has always given pause for thought.
It does stand to reason that if such measurements have never been taken, then presumption will rule.
I would go further and suggest that when MIT said "Experiments directly confirm" they did not mean it is a possibility but a fact. We live in exciting times and I believe very soon we will finally acknowledge the fact we are swimming in a sea of energy present everywhere. A while back I came to a very simple understanding which had profound meaning in my life. Look up...every star not unlike our Sun radiates more energy than we can possibly imagine thus all of that empty space out there must be full of energy if energy is to be conserved. It simply goes on and on until it is absorbed in matter thus energy is the norm not the exception to the rule, it is everywhere in everything.
This led to an understanding of what the Primary Fields (Electric, Magnetic and Gravic) are in reality... not what they do but what they are fundamentally. When I finally connected all the dots between what happens out there and how it relates to what happens down here the big picture presented itself. Consider the true reality of what the MIT guy's are saying... their LED gives off more light due to the fact our planet Earth has received energy from a nearby star, the Sun, which this planet revolves around. Ultimately that is where the energy came from and if that simple reality doesn't knock your socks off then I'm not sure what will. I have found it is very easy to get caught up in the nonsense happening down here on this little backwater planet but the true reality of our existence is that we are on a planet revolving around a star which is moving towards the star Vega at 140 miles per second and we should get there in about 230 million years.
I believe T.H.Moray called this insight the universal mind when we discard the simplistic notions of those around us oblivious to the true reality of what we are, where we are in this universe and where we are going. Most have created a false sense of reality down here and it is only when we begin to see past this that we can begin to make progress the likes of which few can even imagine. All we really need to understand is that all that stuff out there may effect what we do down here because we are not separate from it we are immersed in it.
AC
Quote from: LaserSaber on 2015.05.13, 22:28:19
Here's my latest build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxAE1tdbHXc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IxAE1tdbHXc)
Hi again and welcome to this forum :)
I've been following your SJR looper experiments and how far they deviated from initial Delamorto circuit. Also I wonder if you did any additional tests when there are foil capacitor plates in ferrite pot and when they get second BEMF signal source for influencing coils inside. The introduction of electrostatic component from capacitive surrounding into coils is somewhat barely explored frontier and might be a key for adding energy into circuit from ambient surroundings (aether)...
Cheers!
@AC - am in agreement with your thinking. I picture it rather simply, like the bird sat on the household mains feed from the transformer. It has no idea what it's sat on, but it would if it touched something connected to the ground !
'All' we need to do, is ground in a different way, to connect.
@T-1000 - That seems similar to the pot core experiments of last year, where copper foil separated windings. Yes, it needs more exploration, because that seemed to fade away like it was some kind of fad.
I've returned to the 'better made' version of TK's build method (which was a winner for Lidmotor too I noticed).
With the tiny coil running best of those that i've made so far, I attempted a wind on a core that was even smaller. Like some kind of RSI inducing wish for dexterity troubles, 100+300 turns of 40AWG were wound on it. The thinking was, that i'd better get this sort of thing done now, before arthritis or something strikes in slightly older age !
End result, a great success, thankfully.
Run cap, 470uF.
Attached is a pic at 26 minutes, which I think is the benchmark now for a lower light output run ?
It ran onward until 45 minutes, with flickering starting at 40 minutes. That result means that I can further reduce the run cap from a '472' and brighten it slightly. The odd trait it has at the moment, is that it begins its run with a bright output for a couple of seconds, then dips into its basically solid lower light level.
Am using a germanium diode so far on this one, but will try one of the surprisingly good BYV type series fast rectifiers too.
(Harpbloke mentioned on my last upload that he put one of those in sunlight and got 300mV. I just did the same, at 6.45pm and saw 200mV...quite surprising for something that looks like it's made of a ceramic material.
Some testing results:
The wireless version of the circuit was tried as a AAA Ni-Cd battery charger.
Really, just to see if anything happened, because the throughput is so low. An ex solar garden light 100mAh AAA was connected via a 1N4148 diode and '101' ceramic capacitor, to a 12 turn coil and left sitting on the transmitting coil overnight. We leave a light on overnight, so the thinking was to perhaps make some use out of that fact.
Starting at 0.685V at 11pm, it was at 0.808V by 8am. Not a lot, but worth the run to have a look. Without the battery in place, voltages between 1V and 1.3V were noted, so a better made system may show improvements and work as a trickle charger.
Next, was to see what happens in the form of charging a capacitor within the original schematic based circuit.
A well discharged 470uF (to match the run capacitor) was placed over an output LED.
After 1 minute, the cap showed 90mV.
Reducing to 22uF, after 1 minute it sat at 0.504V
Reduced again to 1uF, the reading was 3.5V
The thinking, was that perhaps a capacitor could charge, at no detriment to the running of the circuit, which could then have a useful charge be periodically thrown back into the run cap.
During the runs, the other 2 LEDs brightened...which was not altogether expected. The cap could easily have completely killed off the output as it charged from practically zero, or at least have caused no effect to the other 2 as it charged.
Here are 2 scope shots, from the 100:300 micro coil version of the circuit.
The first is across ground and MPSA18 Collector.
The second is across ground and Base.
Just a quick update, noting this is my third post in a row.
2 single winding coils were tried, 1 on top of the other and secured together with a spot of superglue.
One is larger than the other, approx twice as large, with a similar gauge of wire used in both.
It works. Not as well as other methods, but ran for 10 minutes on a 470uf cap.
Also, a 2 pin connector is now being used to try out different capacitor sizes. Makes things easier.
Hey Slider
I can't help but think of Doc Stiffler's earlier SEC units with the ferrite rod sliding inside the small coil. It seems to me that tuning was an important part of his device's ability to "cohere" energy from the ambient domain. I suspect that your own coils positions relative to one another will have a tuning effect on the circuit in a similar way. The other item, of course (which you have amply demonstrated) is the role of a ground of some kind.
Enjoying your posts.
Bob
Thanks Bob, yes indeed there's a lot to look at, regarding the operation of such circuits and for understandings of what happens in this one. The couplings are great to explore. With the version where 2 coils were stuck end to end, the distance between them decides the intensity of the LEDs and run time of the circuit.
Some unexpected runnings feature all over the place with the SJR L 4. Which, I might say, definitely includes the next oddity !
I wound a 150:400 of 40AWG on a small ferrite core. It didn't seem to work, would just show a really bright light and then switch off....
But it hadn't. A few seconds later, the extinguished LEDs came back on and ran onward at a low intensity for a couple of minutes !
With having added a 1meg resistor in parallel with the usual small non electrolytic capacitor, I presumed it was that and I do say as much in the short video below. However, on removing the resistor, it still does it !
Changing the capacitor value slows or speeds up the frequency of the circuit, but also changes the off time of the LEDs before they come on again.
All very odd.
I then tested it with an AM radio to pick up the oscillations and sure enough it trundles along fine when the LEDs are off, yet somewhere along the line manages to relight the LEDs.
Have decided to term it The Phoenix variant.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uwl-1akY6dc
Hi Slider
Pretty cool stuff happening with the circuit. Here's what I think may be happening:
After you power it up with the battery, the circuit starts to oscillate at a relatively high frequency (relative to where it is when LEDs are lit).
The frequency slows down to an optimal "tuned" point of resonance where the circuit as a whole begins to interact favourably with the ambient domain.
As long as the frequency stays in this optimally tuned zone, it will bring in ambient energy to produce light in the LEDs.
BUT... the resistor is a key factor in facilitating this process.
When dealing with ambient energy or negative electricity, resistors actually become a kind of hyper conductor for ambient charge.
Without a sizeable resistor, this process may not happen.
It all seems counter to the prevailing paradigm/understanding of electricity in the hot domain.
Have fun!
Bob
Um..... ok..... ???
Some months ago I did some slight modifications to an earlier LaserSaber version of this circuit and found some very interesting behaviours with that as well:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjgemF5zpeE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHI7LnVWBlY
@TK - you get points from here for using a C3198
Once upon a time, I drew up a whole list/chart of transistors for Slayer exciter use and the C3198 was beating MPSA06, 2N2222A and other regularly used types. Other good ones commonly not considered were C1815 'GR' and S9014 'D'.
@Bob - Well, I dunno about the operation in quite such a way, as it does do the same without the resistor and that was very surprising. The theory at the moment, is that there is a duty cycle component (to be verified with the scope). The oscillations are switching off too fast for the LEDs to register as a glow to the eye. As the duty cycle changes, with the cap lowering in voltage, we see the LEDs come on.
I just updated the V4 schematic. The previous one had the winding ratio flipped.
(http://laserhacker.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/SJR_L_V4.1.jpg)
I also added this video showing how to wind the SJR coil: https://youtu.be/l5oh4y83mZU?t=5m29s (https://youtu.be/l5oh4y83mZU?t=5m29s)
What do you all think of CoolJoule's latest video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjTyg-CGaxU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjTyg-CGaxU)
I think that maybe he thinks that the diode has to be there and that it has to be leaky. It is my experience that the diode and capacitor can be removed completely. Here is the schematic that I see as illustrating the heart of the SJR L circuit: http://laserhacker.com/?p=406 (http://laserhacker.com/?p=406) Anyway I really enjoyed seeing the thought he but into helping other folks get the circuit going. His explanation of the circuit reminded of Lidmotor's claim that this is essentially a tank circuit.
@Slider
I am really enjoying your videos showing the many oddities with this circuit. Please keep sharing.
@Bob Smith
Personally I have never thought of a resistor as a good thing in a circuit like this. Of course I could be wrong but my working presupposition for years has been to avoid them at all cost. I have actually found that the capacitor and diode are not always necessary. I often have to add them after removing the clip leads and miniaturisation of the circuit. This tells me that I can I can probably build the needed capacitance into the coil itself. Copper foils perhaps?
@TK
Those videos showing the low voltage with the third coil effect are really cool. I just rewatched them and gave them thumbs up because the videos were great and I notice that they had a really high ratio of thumbs down for some reason. Check you e-mail when you get a chance, I am curious about the voltage on the cap.
Have a great rest of the weekend everybody.
-LS
Today I tested a new pot core. It works better than any of the other ones I have tested. Here is a link to a picture of it: https://www.surplussales.com/Images/Inductors/Ferrite/PotCores/ich-2616-77.jpg
Model: (ICH) 2616-77 https://www.surplussales.com/Inductors/FerPotC/FerPotC-1.html
It's performance is much better than my previous cores. It is a very different looking material. It has a super smooth mirror looking finish where the two halves meet. It performed about the same as others with a current draw of around 2-5uA until I clamped the two halves together with a plastic clamp. As the pressure increased the current draw fell to less than my meter can register. In blink mode it runs on less than .1uA in fact my best digital meter just sets on 000.0uA. I now need to find a much better meter so that I can see improvements. In solid lit mode it runs for a much longer time on one of those small 200v caps than my previous build did on two of them. So some more good progress has been made.
That's very cool to hear about.
I did notice something related to your observations about the pot core halves. The ones I have here are from last year, the larger type that you showed in your last video. When one side is removed, a coil doesn't run anything like as well as when both halves are tightly secured together. I thought that was quite strange, being that the mass of ferrite was 'merely' halved.
Am looking forward to a new vid !
Over here, i've been testing a related circuit, from Bill P. It's resistor and inductor based, mostly resistor effects that are very standard and can catch us out. But, on a test this evening, his circuit does extend the light output duration compared to an equivalent simple resistor value. It's all about the same for output where it matters for reading etc, but does carry on longer by many minutes on the 8200uF testing cap. As I say, it's slight. On his 10x larger 82000uF cap, the LEDs emitted light for 48hrs.
Quite surprising, extra passive components ought to lessen the run time.
Here's his video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqolbtK-CgA
Circuit schematic at 4:49
Quote from: Slider2732 on 2015.05.19, 02:18:02
That's very cool to hear about.
I did notice something related to your observations about the pot core halves. The ones I have here are from last year, the larger type that you showed in your last video. When one side is removed, a coil doesn't run anything like as well as when both halves are tightly secured together. I thought that was quite strange, being that the mass of ferrite was 'merely' halved.
Slider,
It' not just the mass of the ferrite that determines the inductance, but also the geometry and in particular whether the ferrite creates a closed magnetic path through the coil and back around the outside. If it doesn't do that and the magnetic field lines travel through air then the inductance is more determined by that air path. Your half core inductor will have tiny inductance compared to your full pot cored inductor.
Smudge
@smudge
I would agree and it depends on how we perceive the the objects or materials we work with. I tend to start at the molecular level considering the nature of the materials, geometry and fields present from experience. Others tend to consider them as bulk objects having lumped properties. A split core is a good example because even a smooth polished mating surface looks like mountains under a microscope having a large boundary condition between the two surfaces. In fact using magnetic viewing film a person can see a white line where field leakage occurs which is not the case with a solid material. Thus it is seldom a case of one or the other but the degree of interaction across a boundary condition.
Most people do not even notice these little things until they push the limits as in lasersaber's case at which point they may become an issue. As they say the devil is in the details and it may not be apparent to many others but people like Tesla and Moray were masters of this craft. It is said it took Moray 30 years to perfect his device to the point it would function as he wanted. As such this was most definitely not something Moray just slapped together in an ad hock fashion but a well thought out machine having distinct functions and properties not apparent to the layman.
AC
Although wired as a closed system, does the split core more effectively make this circuit an open system?
Bob
Quote from: Allcanadian on 2015.05.19, 13:17:31
@smudge
I would agree and it depends on how we perceive the the objects or materials we work with. I tend to start at the molecular level considering the nature of the materials, geometry and fields present from experience. Others tend to consider them as bulk objects having lumped properties. A split core is a good example because even a smooth polished mating surface looks like mountains under a microscope having a large boundary condition between the two surfaces. In fact using magnetic viewing film a person can see a white line where field leakage occurs which is not the case with a solid material. Thus it is seldom a case of one or the other but the degree of interaction across a boundary condition.
Correct, mated surfaces however smooth still have an effective air gap. That is why measurements of ferromagnetic materials are carried out on ring cores, not mated C cores or pot cores. The effective air gap in the pot core experiment has gone from cm down to um so an enormous change of inductance. An even larger change would take place if the mating surfaces could coalesce, which of course they can't.
Smudge
@Smudge
QuoteThe effective air gap in the pot core experiment has gone from cm down to um so an enormous change of inductance. An even larger change would take place if the mating surfaces could coalesce, which of course they can't.
That may not be exactly true and again we are speaking of degrees, properties and conditions. If the surfaces were perfectly clean and true and all impurities removed under a strong vacuum then the surfaces may cold weld or fuse. Which in itself raises certain questions, if the boundary condition was near perfect under a very high voltage high frequency alternating current know to exclude common gasses through mutual repulsion then...who knows. There are many ways to skin a cat.
AC
Thanks Smudge and AC for the insights.
It was just a little surprising to see the huge difference when the ferrite piece was removed. Layman logic saying that half of it was still there. In experiments last year, it was noticed how the pressure on the securing nut and bolt made a difference, but hadn't personally been investigated further.
No doubt the mirror finish on these new cores of LS's are making useful and beneficial changes to performance.
Makes me wonder about fine sanding these that I have here. Similar to car body finishing with the wet and dry fine sandpaper.
It might start a trend :D
What could be interesting is to put compressible material in the gap and then you can get some magneto-mechanical effects. It is possible that the Bearden MEG uses this effect. The C cores there are not held tightly closed because it is impossible to use the banding straps normally used on C cores. Also the magnet induces like poles on the two mating faces so they move apart until restrained by the flimsy strap used. The AC drive then causes the gap to oscillate so you get parametric amplification. This is enhanced at the natural mechanical resonant frequency of the C cores.
Smudge
I see, thanks again.
Makes me wonder about piezo effects within that gap.
If a simple greeting card type of disk was placed between and pressure applied, the minute perturbations while 'singing' could be returned to the driving capacitor. It would be an external power source, in keeping with the needs of the circuit. What's needed is a comparatively high voltage (compared to that of an LED) and very little current, for which such a disk seems ideal.
What may be actually a less than perfect arrangement for efficient running of the system, may generate the optimum from the piezo element. That would tie in with LS's observations regarding other setups of his testing.
Just thought i would post this here,as we are dealing with LED circuit's.
Anyway,it just popped up on my youtube channel as a recomended watch. This was soooome time ago,and it took me a while to remember actually doing this experiment lol. I cant find a video of mine on it,but here is one that TK did.
Although we can work out what is going on here,i am going to throw this circuit back together now i have my SG and digital scope,and can have a good look over the power flowing in. O0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvf9Uo7UVx0
I liked the zero uA and 'turn it down to a dull roar'.
Had already watched it, there was a blue hand for me thumbing it up years ago. not that the significance was known then. Am certainly intrigued by the pancake coil inclusion and do vaguely remember something of yours being replicated that used one.
Will be building this one.
Those LEDs were ridiculously bright >:-)
Well i have built the circuit,but i cant find my pancake coil anywhere. I think it must have got lost in the shift?.
I can get it to work with a normal inductor,but only by conecting and disconecting the inductor to get the current to go negative. I cant get it to do it by adjusting the voltage like TK showed,but im sure i did all those years ago with the pancake coil ???
Oh well,might have to make another pancake coil-->had nothing else planed for the night anyway lol. O0
@ TinMan
Thanks for sharing TK's video. I do not remember ever seeing that one. I wish I could see your original video that inspired this. If you come across that, please share. I must say, that while interesting and probably useful for tuning, I do not trust using multimeters inline with the function generator. I have driven halogen bulbs on joule ringer type circuits and had my power supply say that it was supplying 0mA just because the high frequency feeds back and messes with the meters accuracy. Watching this video makes me really want to get ahold of a decent function generator. I guess that I will start watching eBay for one.
A quick SJR L update.
I have had very little time to experiment lately. Here is a private video that I will delete and replace shortly with a better one showing an LED board that I made that lets me adjust the amount of LEDs in the circuit. https://youtu.be/MVHzuxO-Ecs (https://youtu.be/MVHzuxO-Ecs)
TK, can you confirm the value on one of those little 220V caps? I am thinking that they are 220V at under 1uF. Your circuit has two of them in parallel. I am just using one on my current build. I had to order more of the 2616-77 pot cores. I dropped the one that I had and it cracked. The circuit never ran at 0uA after that. After getting the new pot cores I tried putting the bobbin in the new core and it still would not perform at the old level. I then started troubleshooting and discovered that the magnet wire I used had old flaking enamel and must have shorted itself, who knows where, inside the coil after I dropped it. I hope that I can get back to that performance level.
Quote from: LaserSaber on 2015.05.28, 12:09:53
@ TinMan
Thanks for sharing TK's video. I do not remember ever seeing that one. I wish I could see your original video that inspired this. If you come across that, please share. I must say, that while interesting and probably useful for tuning, I do not trust using multimeters inline with the function generator. I have driven halogen bulbs on joule ringer type circuits and had my power supply say that it was supplying 0mA just because the high frequency feeds back and messes with the meters accuracy. Watching this video makes me really want to get ahold of a decent function generator. I guess that I will start watching eBay for one.
Well i havnt found that one yet,but i did find m build of your SJR 2 ,and this one kept running with the secondary coil disconected ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2E9f2eEN7l8
The bank of LEDs reminded me of Slayer Exciter experiments, where we've hung such an array from the towers.
In fact, have just found one 30 LED bank and will try it on some kind of SJRL4 variant.
Here's a question, what happens in the present set up with a 1W LED ?
What i'm wondering about, is an LED driver circuit of immense efficiency compared to commercial offerings.
Over winter, I ran an LED lighting system for plant growth and there were half a dozen 1W whites in with reds and blues. The whites were running at 70% or similar brightness to the eye, gave a pleasing natural light to check on leaf condition etc and the whole thing was powered by USB of 5V 500mA. Far less input than many would think possible (probably those who sell fancy LED systems). A simple couple of resistors were all that were used, to balance things out.
An efficient lighting circuit, based on the SJRL circuit, could be a boon for energy efficient indoor plant growing :)
Quote from: LaserSaber on 2015.05.28, 12:09:53
@ TinMan
Thanks for sharing TK's video. I do not remember ever seeing that one. I wish I could see your original video that inspired this. If you come across that, please share. I must say, that while interesting and probably useful for tuning, I do not trust using multimeters inline with the function generator. I have driven halogen bulbs on joule ringer type circuits and had my power supply say that it was supplying 0mA just because the high frequency feeds back and messes with the meters accuracy. Watching this video makes me really want to get ahold of a decent function generator. I guess that I will start watching eBay for one.
A quick SJR L update.
I have had very little time to experiment lately. Here is a private video that I will delete and replace shortly with a better one showing an LED board that I made that lets me adjust the amount of LEDs in the circuit. https://youtu.be/MVHzuxO-Ecs (https://youtu.be/MVHzuxO-Ecs)
TK, can you confirm the value on one of those little 220V caps? I am thinking that they are 220V at under 1uF. Your circuit has two of them in parallel. I am just using one on my current build. I had to order more of the 2616-77 pot cores. I dropped the one that I had and it cracked. The circuit never ran at 0uA after that. After getting the new pot cores I tried putting the bobbin in the new core and it still would not perform at the old level. I then started troubleshooting and discovered that the magnet wire I used had old flaking enamel and must have shorted itself, who knows where, inside the coil after I dropped it. I hope that I can get back to that performance level.
Oh...let's see. You sent two that are loose, too. They are marked X7R 200V on one side, and RMC .56K on the other side. My capacitance meter reads them at 545 nF, or 0.55 uF.
Thanks TK. I was not sure what the .56K meant. So at 9V I am running on will under 1uF. I wonder why it runs longer on those little capacitors than it does on others marked at lower voltage and higher capacitance. It sounds like l need to get a capacitance meter. All my digital meters have blown fuses at the moment.
@TinMan
I will watch that video later tonight when I have access to my computer. It sounds very interesting.
@Slider
I have thought a lot about this. There are reasons that I think it is a much better choice over DC in certain aplications. I will share more later when I have more time.
@LaserSaber - most certainly pulsed is better, for energy costs :)
Have mentioned a short while back about not seeing resonance figures for different LEDs..as in, i'd think a specific manufacturers LED would perform best at a particular frequency. We could then build and tune to the LED itself. Tinsels TinMan circuit put out an astounding amount of light from what seem to be regular superbright whites, for example.
Oh, just a bit of fun and perhaps a thinking point. This whole Laser lightsaber thing....I wonder if there is a way to fold the light around and around after it hits a reflector point some way from the handle. It would need to be something akin to a resonant field frequency virtual plate, something unseen by the eye but acting as a mirror, or at least a limiter. Can anything non physical soak/stop a beam of light, would be one question. Perhaps a pulse train of a frequency, where the 1/4 wave point decides the interference point.
With even a DVD laser used in the device, the aim would be a 4ft or so beam of light, with at least balloon popping power. Limit the beam length with the reflector section and it would be a true Lightsaber. If the circuit to project the virtual plate was HV based, then it would likely ionize the air when moved and therefore give the correct sound. The middle of the beam (between handle and plate) would cut, because the reflector would deaden end point energy and therefore a slashing action would work better than a jab. Finally, if the frequency generator energized the air while the reflected laser built up power, then the beam would appear to quickly grow on switch on. Points which could be deemed correct for a real device.
'All' that needs to be done to realise the concept, is to limit the beam length of a laser at a position in the air.
:D
Quote from: Slider2732 on 2015.05.28, 13:57:37
The bank of LEDs reminded me of Slayer Exciter experiments, where we've hung such an array from the towers.
In fact, have just found one 30 LED bank and will try it on some kind of SJRL4 variant.
Here's a question, what happens in the present set up with a 1W LED ?
What i'm wondering about, is an LED driver circuit of immense efficiency compared to commercial offerings.
Over winter, I ran an LED lighting system for plant growth and there were half a dozen 1W whites in with reds and blues. The whites were running at 70% or similar brightness to the eye, gave a pleasing natural light to check on leaf condition etc and the whole thing was powered by USB of 5V 500mA. Far less input than many would think possible (probably those who sell fancy LED systems). A simple couple of resistors were all that were used, to balance things out.
An efficient lighting circuit, based on the SJRL circuit, could be a boon for energy efficient indoor plant growing :)
Slider, "brightness" is not "amount", pulsing an LED doesn't necessarily make it more efficient to run it is just supplied less energy due to the off times and the in to out efficiency remains similar. The amount of light is relative to the on duty but the brightness is not, the brightness is related to the applied "power" and depending on the duty it can be seen to pulsate or not, the result is the same even if we cannot see the light pulsating, the amount of light is reduced because of the off time.
Two LED's of the same "brightness" with one driven at 100% duty and one driven at 50% duty will mean the one driven at 50% duty will emit less light but at the same brightness.
Brightness of the light is different from the amount of light, kinda like power is not energy and brightness is not amount.
It all depends if you just want to get some bright light to see by or if you want to get as much light as is possible from one LED.
Brightness has nothing to do with time.
ie. I have an LED Torch which has three settings LOW, HIGH and FLASH, when it's used on flash the light is the same brightness as when it is used on HIGH but because the light flashes at only about 10 Hz it is easily seen that the torch actually emits less light when flashing, the result will be the same regardless of the rate of flashing. Leaving out variable losses, the "amount" of light emitted will be relative to the amount of energy or total real power drawn.
With accurate testing at equal input voltage and current values an LED that is pulsing and using less total real power than One that is being driven at 100% will show the LED using less total real power will also emit less light regardless of the brightness of either.
Unless of course the LED is utilizing environmental energy. If you can show the utilization of environmental energy at such low power levels accurately then that is something.
Similarly pulsing a DC motor can reduce the input but it also reduces the mechanical power the motor can output. Unless the pulsing causes environmental input, which there is no proof of yet for motors.
I do believe it is possible for LED's to utilize environmental energy as some have claimed. But I do not believe it is a economically viable process, and really not much different from solar or wind.
..
@Farmhand
It can get a little confusing and I had to brush up on the subject for my 9800 lumen/100 watt LED flashlight project. The 100w LED chips I bought have dropped in price however at the time I bought two for $6 each with free shipping. Now I'm thinking 19,000 lumen variable power flash light, lol, however even with one it is so bright it is ridiculous and it lights up my whole yard.
There is also the issue of the lumen rating which is the amount of light and the candlepower rating which is the brightest part of the beam. As such a LED can have a low lumen rating not giving off much light but have a large candlepower rating if the beam is very smal and bright. I thought about both scenario's and decided on a larger fatter beam for the LED flashlight and while my 2 million candlepower halogen flashlight is bright with a small beam my LED flashlight makes it look like a candle by comparison.
AC
The pulse durations are one thing, I quite agree. In which sense, 100% On would be the brightest output. Can't get current where there is none.
What i'm on about though, is frequency. An LED responding differently based on the frequency at which those pulses are firing it.
Admittedly, a test setup just now didn't show what I was hoping would be seen....a white LED connected across a signal generator. At 50% Duty Cycle, past 1MHz the light dimmed, which is expected really due to rapidity of the pulse train. The battery then ran out on the gen, but the idea is to vary the duration and see what happens. Ideally, a lumen tester would be part of such a test (not got one).
However, it's still useful to know that it dimmed, because Slayer Exciters mostly run at around 2MHz and yet LED's will be ultra bright on A/V plugs, on a piece of wire or other means of lighting them. Not sure why, if the result tallied simply to frequency.
Where I think there is room for debate or discussion, is with the frequency and the pulse duration. If we can utilise Off times then we save energy. So goes the thinking anyway :)
In relation to such circuits as the SJR series, that would then mean the introduction of a specific frequency and pulse cycle that matched the LEDs being used.
ETA:
While the thread seems to have slowed down and hopefully some may find it interesting.
This relates to my last post, about the actual laser lightsaber.
'Theyve only gone and done it!'
Turn this thing into stacked dots, one above the other. Shrink the whole system to be held in the hand.
LaserSaber sent me one of his super-cool "Tesla Torch" wind-up flashlights. And I just discharged it completely, then placed it near my Wireless Power Transmitter in the black briefcase. The flashlight charges slowly from the Transmitter! If I left it there long enough I'm sure it would charge up completely.
:o
However, indeed that can happen. Some circuits can run in reverse when powered wirelessly.
I have a video somewhere on YouTube that shows it, will find and edit this post.
Here we go, it's the original SWES (Simple Wireless Electricity System), where a blocking oscillator normally runs on a 100uF cap. Introduced to the field, the light comes on and charges the cap. Transmitter goes off, oscillator carries on.
With the SJR L 4.0, the coils would be working as the pancake coil does in the video.
It's shown at 1:00 in the timeline, only a short vid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSUGXCWIVoI