OverUnity Research

A thread for all aspects of 3D printing.

Feel free to ask questions,provide handy tip's,and show off your designs.

May be a good idea to end your post with the modle of your printer.



Brad
Anet A8

Thanks Brad,
This bloke has a bunch of good tips that I wish I had of watched  year ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sqh3FM12KVg

I fixed my extruder clicking issue which was pusching the ptfe extruder tube down towards the nozzle and shrinking it. This caused filament starvation and subsequent blockage of nozzles. The fix was a new ptfe tube and making sur the filament entered perpendicular to the hotend.

Next issue is my right z axis motor has creep of up to 4mm. Over 30 mins it will gain 1mm. I've measured horiz distance beteewn motor screws top and bottom. They are good. I'm yet to pull them out of the flex coupling and reseat them but I think that is the next step or maybe compare volatges between the motors.

Quote from: JimBoot on 2019.01.23, 11:03:24
I fixed my extruder clicking issue which was pusching the ptfe extruder tube down towards the nozzle and shrinking it. This caused filament starvation and subsequent blockage of nozzles. The fix was a new ptfe tube and making sur the filament entered perpendicular to the hotend.

Next issue is my right z axis motor has creep of up to 4mm. Over 30 mins it will gain 1mm. I've measured horiz distance beteewn motor screws top and bottom. They are good. I'm yet to pull them out of the flex coupling and reseat them but I think that is the next step or maybe compare volatges between the motors.

Regarding the Z axis problem.
I have seen a few guys now print up two belt pulley's,and put one at the top of each worm screw. They then put a belt around the two pulley's,so as to keep both motors in sync. This way either can miss a step,and the other will turn it that step anyway.


Brad

Checking in :)

Anet A8

What i'd like to know, is if leaving filament out on a spool in a colder room makes it brittle?
The reel of black ABS has been connected up for about a year.... its a big reel.
The room is only partly heated, with the end of the room suffering drafts etc through the floorboards. Temps outside have been down to 15F (way below freezing in centigrade), but no idea of the wooden floor temperature.
My filament keeps breaking now at the extruder input and the thing has to be re-threaded if left overnight. Next day it will have snapped. 
A blanket on the floor would probably help, but just wondered if anyone else has had that issue.

Quote from: Slider2732 on 2019.01.23, 19:02:07
Checking in :)

Anet A8

What i'd like to know, is if leaving filament out on a spool in a colder room makes it brittle?
The reel of black ABS has been connected up for about a year.... its a big reel.
The room is only partly heated, with the end of the room suffering drafts etc through the floorboards. Temps outside have been down to 15F (way below freezing in centigrade), but no idea of the wooden floor temperature.
My filament keeps breaking now at the extruder input and the thing has to be re-threaded if left overnight. Next day it will have snapped. 
A blanket on the floor would probably help, but just wondered if anyone else has had that issue.

Have not used ABS yet. Just reading about it sounds bloody tricky to work with.

Quote from: TinMan on 2019.01.23, 12:24:51
Regarding the Z axis problem.
I have seen a few guys now print up two belt pulley's,and put one at the top of each worm screw. They then put a belt around the two pulley's,so as to keep both motors in sync. This way either can miss a step,and the other will turn it that step anyway.


Brad

Mmm sounds feasible. Other blokes are ditching their motherboards, I like the pulley idea better. Once I have it going I'll setup Rasppi with Octipi - that looks like a pretty awesome remote setup. Edit - ok parts bought for the pulley solution.

3D printing Piezos mentioned at Dansie's
https://revolution-green.com/mechanical-engineers-develop-process-3d-print-piezoelectric-materials/

Quote from: Chet K on 2019.01.23, 23:11:14
3D printing Piezos mentioned at Dansie's
https://revolution-green.com/mechanical-engineers-develop-process-3d-print-piezoelectric-materials/

I would like to be able to print solar panels O0

  I use PLA and I have the breakage as well. This is in a typical 80* temp. Didn't do it at first then lately both reels are. I have the feeling that once you open the bag, it may lose or take on moisture which causes this.

Thay
ROBO3D A1+

aaaah I wondered what the vacuum seal and desicant was all about... not enough to goolge it until I had the issue though. I've been measuring the effect of using neos mounted on the side to place load or some sort of field resistance.
The pattern that is working atm is South neos on rear and north on right side. I'm not sure now whether it's slowing it or speeding it up.  I'm thinking it's not that's fast up, it might be slow down, I only saw that when I started the print so I have ot measured.

The neos took the difference of a 1mm creep over 100mm to less than 0.1 - still not awesome but better and enough I hope to print some parts for the pulley solution.

Most plastics absorb water, before injection moulding they roast the plastic granules for a while to remove the water content, sometimes you can here the spitting from the hot end if there is water present.


pla is ok but iis not a permenant plastic, will disintegrate in a moist atmosphere into carbon dioxide, ABS warps for larger builds, I moved to PETG 2 years ago and have not looked back since, I find layer adhesion is really good and can print large objects without warpage


Prusa i2, Prusa Samson in build.

This time of year in WA,im more worried about the PLA melting :D.

I plan on experimenting with all types of filaments,but just getting to know,and improving my machine first.


Brad
Anet A8

hahaha 44 here today but only 36 in the shed so got some work done. Turned the temp way down today on prints.

Well, fixed it again. Was looking around at comments and found PLA does go brittle.
Big mistake up above, I put ABS, but meant PLA  C.C
The latest was snapped filament inside the hotend. I was sat there for half an hour straightening the filament and it wouldn't go in.

You Australian guys could save a bunch of power, by unplugging the printer, taking it outside and moving the hot end around by hand. Just a bit of pressure on the filament to send it through!

LOL. Well fortunately it's not as frequent over here as it is in Brad's shed. I was just watching a bloke who puts his TPU in a food dehydrator overnight. The results were pretty amazing. Luckily I have one which I usually use for tomatoes. Sounds like it mighht be handy for PLA too.

Have printed all the parts successfully including pulleys for my Z axis synchronisation , Giving it one last shot on the rotor before I do the change.

http://news.mit.edu/2015/3-d-printing-transparent-glass-0914

Brad
here it is from a very happy girl in Poland

https://news.yahoo.com/inkjet-solar-panels-poised-revolutionise-green-energy-042525891.html;_ylt=AwrJ7JNJ_Fhc2O0AooNXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTEyYmMwdHFqBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjY4OThfMQRzZWMDc3I-

What does it take to use mild steel filaments?

Quote from: Paul-R on 2019.02.05, 17:24:43
What does it take to use mild steel filaments?

Have not tried with mild steel yet but bronze & iron will print on anything that prints PLA, so most printers.  https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/stainless-steel-pla They are non conductive as basically they're a powered material held in plastic. It allows you to play around with density and infill structures though which is interesting when looking at permeability. The ones I've printed so far remind me of mumetal permeability. No data yet though. I'm trying hexagon infill on the split toroid below. ONe trick I'm trying tonight is sitting the roll of filament on the heatbed at 60deg to make it easier to print.

A very nice 3d printed motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkwLpAAfBVI

Mags

Another way to do custom cores with a 3d printer is to print the core with common filament, use it to create a negative mold in clay/rubber/plaster, then use epoxy resin and with metal powders to get a custom core casting.

Ferrite powder, bismuth, aluminum, nickel, etc.  Any kind of custom core composite could be made this way.

Another nice 3D printed motor using a Halbach array.  This gentleman has the art of 3D printing mastered IMO.  Check out his Utube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsSm65DAcCg

Pm

Just got my 3d printer yesterday. Creality Ender 3 pro

Took me 2 hours to put it together following the mostly graphical instructions that came with it, plus an hour of tweeking.


The bed rail rollers were preassembled to the base frame that was together. Had to fiddle with those roller adjustments as the table was very loose.  Some reviewers said they had beds that were up to 1mm lower in the center of the bed than the outer edges and went with glass beds instead. But mine seems quite flat. Has the magnetic flexible bed pad for easy part removal. Not a bad build. Everything seems to be good.  Something to note.  When testing the motors motion manually by hand, dont move them fast, and better yet, just dont plug them in yet. They generate voltage and can hurt the electronics. Read that some time ago. Manually you can move the assy faster than it would normally turn the motor in operation, thus could send way more volts back into the electronics than they were intended to handle.

Was $259 free shipping amazon. 2 day delivery.

Not going to fire it up till tomorrow. 130am. If I do turn it on I might as well stay up all night. :D   Cant do it. worky.

Mags

Magluvin
3D printers are pretty cool and I use FreeCAd and Repetier-Host for render-printing. I use mine to print PLA coil formers in some pretty complex geometries then pack the core center with a powdered metal/epoxy. I can print coil formers which are darn near impossible to produce any other way. 

Note the segmented form of the former below and I print off each half then glue them together then each whole form can be stacked in series if needed. Which begs the question why this exact form for a coil former. The segmented former dates back to the early 19th century and was used for HV Ruhmkorff Induction Coils. If you google "Induction coil" the picture most likely to be depicted is a Ruhmkorff Coil including the interrupter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_coil

This was the precursor to many other variations including what many call a "Tesla Coil". As well many other inventors started noting anomalies with this setup which then spawned many of the most well known FE devices. Many would do well to go back and research the older technologies which were the basis for many of the devices we see today. These devices did not need electronics to produce the desired effects and in fact electronics become problematic when experimenting.

P.S. I have the STL files however it would not let me upload them here.

Good luck and good printing

Quote from: AllCanadian
P.S. I have the STL files however it would not let me upload them here.

Append the files temporarily with .pdf or .txt or some other accepted
file format before uploading.

The end user can then simply delete the temporary appendage to recover
the original .stl files for use.

Quote from: Magluvin on 2019.07.25, 05:42:40
Just got my 3d printer yesterday. Creality Ender 3 pro

Took me 2 hours to put it together following the mostly graphical instructions that came with it, plus an hour of tweeking.


The bed rail rollers were preassembled to the base frame that was together. Had to fiddle with those roller adjustments as the table was very loose.  Some reviewers said they had beds that were up to 1mm lower in the center of the bed than the outer edges and went with glass beds instead. But mine seems quite flat. Has the magnetic flexible bed pad for easy part removal. Not a bad build. Everything seems to be good.  Something to note.  When testing the motors motion manually by hand, dont move them fast, and better yet, just dont plug them in yet. They generate voltage and can hurt the electronics. Read that some time ago. Manually you can move the assy faster than it would normally turn the motor in operation, thus could send way more volts back into the electronics than they were intended to handle.

Was $259 free shipping amazon. 2 day delivery.

Not going to fire it up till tomorrow. 130am. If I do turn it on I might as well stay up all night. :D   Cant do it. worky.

Mags

Way to go Mag's.
You will love having one of these,and now you can build anything  O0 O0 O0


Brad

Quote from: Allcanadian on 2019.07.25, 06:34:53
Magluvin
3D printers are pretty cool and I use FreeCAd and Repetier-Host for render-printing. I use mine to print PLA coil formers in some pretty complex geometries then pack the core center with a powdered metal/epoxy. I can print coil formers which are darn near impossible to produce any other way. 

Note the segmented form of the former below and I print off each half then glue them together then each whole form can be stacked in series if needed. Which begs the question why this exact form for a coil former. The segmented former dates back to the early 19th century and was used for HV Ruhmkorff Induction Coils. If you google "Induction coil" the picture most likely to be depicted is a Ruhmkorff Coil including the interrupter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_coil

This was the precursor to many other variations including what many call a "Tesla Coil". As well many other inventors started noting anomalies with this setup which then spawned many of the most well known FE devices. Many would do well to go back and research the older technologies which were the basis for many of the devices we see today. These devices did not need electronics to produce the desired effects and in fact electronics become problematic when experimenting.

P.S. I have the STL files however it would not let me upload them here.

Good luck and good printing

Perhaps upload the STL file's to Thingiverse,and then post the link to your file's here.
Maybe we should all do that,then we could all share our design's,which would make exact replications very easy  O0.

If you have a 3D printer,and not a member of Thingiverse,then i would recommend joining up,as they so much here you can use. I will often grab bit's from there,then upload that file to Tinkercad,then make the modifications i need to make.


Brad

Another possibility is simply rename the suffix of the file from stl to say txt  or just pkzip the stl file and attach it as a zip file.
Then anybody can rename it or unzip it after downloading the attachment from here.

Gyula

Quote from: TinMan on 2019.07.25, 09:33:26
Perhaps upload the STL file's to Thingiverse,and then post the link to your file's here.
Maybe we should all do that,then we could all share our design's,which would make exact replications very easy  O0.

If you have a 3D printer,and not a member of Thingiverse,then i would recommend joining up,as they so much here you can use. I will often grab bit's from there,then upload that file to Tinkercad,then make the modifications i need to make.


Brad

Agreed Brad. Are your gears up there for the non-bemf motor? :) Or tinkercad. That may work Gyula,

   Just received my rolls of petg, is there any thing special that I need to do to use?  Far as I know the machine is already set to use it. What I am meaning is other than selecting the type of filament in the setup. Once I got the bed leveled right, all the prints have come out great.
   I now have a CR10S and love it.

thay

Quote from: JimBoot on 2019.07.29, 05:50:52
Agreed Brad. Are your gears up there for the non-bemf motor? :) Or tinkercad. That may work Gyula,

I'll try zipping an STL file tonight,and post it hete,and see how we go.

I actually got the gear from thingiverse,then rescalled it on tinkercad,and added the drum.


Brad

Quote from: Thaelin on 2019.07.29, 06:17:12
   Just received my rolls of petg, is there any thing special that I need to do to use?  Far as I know the machine is already set to use it. What I am meaning is other than selecting the type of filament in the setup. Once I got the bed leveled right, all the prints have come out great.
   I now have a CR10S and love it.

thay

First,your hot end will have to be at about 230*C.
PETG love's to string,so make your retraction between 1-1.5mm. Some testing will need to be done to work out the best retraction amount.

Also increase your travel speed as high as you can get it,as this will also help reduce stringing,as the hot melted filament in the hotend will not have as much time to ooze out during travel from one point in the print to the next. Remember,travel speed is not print speed.


Brad

OK,i have packed the STL file for my gear hub in the zip below.
Lets see if that works.


Brad

added
Ok,seems to download ok for me.
Could some one else try it,and let us all know.
Cheers.

Seemed to work ok for me Brad.  Thanks.   O0

Quote from: CITFTA on 2019.07.29, 12:29:30
Seemed to work ok for my Brad.  Thanks.   O0

Ah,this is good.

So, easy enough to do.
Not sure how it works on OS above XP,but i just right click on the STL file,and send to compressed zip folder  O0

Now we can share our folders quite easily  O0


Brad

Has anyone tried entering the Victor Shauberger Repulsine into the software? (Heaven knows how). 3D printing might  be a way to experiment with this device.

Quote from: Paul-R on 2019.07.29, 17:30:53
Has anyone tried entering the Victor Shauberger Repulsine into the software? (Heaven knows how). 3D printing might  be a way to experiment with this device.

There are a few models out there for his funnels but I have not seen any for the repulsine.

Thanks for the stl Brad,
Worked fine

Quote from: Allcanadian on 2019.07.25, 06:34:53
Magluvin
3D printers are pretty cool and I use FreeCAd and Repetier-Host for render-printing. I use mine to print PLA coil formers in some pretty complex geometries then pack the core center with a powdered metal/epoxy. I can print coil formers which are darn near impossible to produce any other way. 

Note the segmented form of the former below and I print off each half then glue them together then each whole form can be stacked in series if needed. Which begs the question why this exact form for a coil former. The segmented former dates back to the early 19th century and was used for HV Ruhmkorff Induction Coils. If you google "Induction coil" the picture most likely to be depicted is a Ruhmkorff Coil including the interrupter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_coil

This was the precursor to many other variations including what many call a "Tesla Coil". As well many other inventors started noting anomalies with this setup which then spawned many of the most well known FE devices. Many would do well to go back and research the older technologies which were the basis for many of the devices we see today. These devices did not need electronics to produce the desired effects and in fact electronics become problematic when experimenting.

P.S. I have the STL files however it would not let me upload them here.

Good luck and good printing

Cool stuff.  Now that I see how these things print in person, its a no brainer, especially for coil bobbins and such like you show.

Im super excited. Wanted one of these for some time, but was hesitant on which one to get. Im very happy with it.

Mags

Ok. The printer works very well. My first print was the dog leaving the settings to default for the file. The base cam loose as the print got toward the top and the head was moving the print around, so I stopped it there.  Used up half of the first layer of pla for that. I got Sunlu transparent for my first roll. The ender came with white but Im not sure it would have printed the full dog.

So after some settings tweaks, seems all good.  In the first pic is the dog(first print) Then I did the ring in the middle that i made in cinema 4d, just to check tolerances of what the model said it was compared to the print. Seemingly perfect 25mm ID.

So after that I dug right in and made a mini rotor for initial testing of the MMM v2. The bearing is from a hard drive read arm. Was just over 11mm and just took some light sanding with 400 grit around a sharpy to fit beautifully. The rotor was created just from 2 wheels in C4D, the lower one with 360 sections for a nice round edge and the top wheel was made with 7 sections and I just meshed them together and ran it in Cura for slicing.  This like I said it is just a test base and then Ill go forward from there. Once I get the rest printed and together Ill start a thread on it. 

Took about 25min to print the rotor. 3 hrs to print the dog with its brains showing.

I had seen a prog called Design spark mechanical.  But took forever to install and it seems like its gota be connected to the net to use it. Does that mean they can always see what your making? Not sure I like that. But it did have impressive build features that even solidworks doesnt have. So once I got my settings in C4D right, I think Ill use that for now as I know it pretty well.

Mags

Quote from: Magluvin on 2019.07.30, 02:39:28
Ok. The printer works very well. My first print was the dog leaving the settings to default for the file. The base cam loose as the print got toward the top and the head was moving the print around, so I stopped it there.  Used up half of the first layer of pla for that. I got Sunlu transparent for my first roll. The ender came with white but Im not sure it would have printed the full dog.

So after some settings tweaks, seems all good.  In the first pic is the dog(first print) Then I did the ring in the middle that i made in cinema 4d, just to check tolerances of what the model said it was compared to the print. Seemingly perfect 25mm ID.

So after that I dug right in and made a mini rotor for initial testing of the MMM v2. The bearing is from a hard drive read arm. Was just over 11mm and just took some light sanding with 400 grit around a sharpy to fit beautifully. The rotor was created just from 2 wheels in C4D, the lower one with 360 sections for a nice round edge and the top wheel was made with 7 sections and I just meshed them together and ran it in Cura for slicing.  This like I said it is just a test base and then Ill go forward from there. Once I get the rest printed and together Ill start a thread on it. 

Took about 25min to print the rotor. 3 hrs to print the dog with its brains showing.

I had seen a prog called Design spark mechanical.  But took forever to install and it seems like its gota be connected to the net to use it. Does that mean they can always see what your making? Not sure I like that. But it did have impressive build features that even solidworks doesnt have. So once I got my settings in C4D right, I think Ill use that for now as I know it pretty well.

Mags

Good job Mags  O0
Welcome to the printing world.

With the new high perm magnetic filaments coming out,there won't be much we can't  print.

Brad.

Nice Mags,
Some things that have helped me. I only print on glass. Just got a mirror tile adjusted it for size them put a spacer on the z carriage stop switch. Always ask yourself does the object require infill, some models can be self supporting.
Things I'm exploring
Photogrammetry, Drone printing (TPU) &  metal filaments. They can get expensive. I'd like to get some of the virtual foundary filaments. I think they're black good is basically carbon in a suspension. Now I've convinced my wife to let me use her kiln, the project ideas start to mount :) 

Thanks TinMan, I will get into the setups and see what I can find. PLA is ok for some things but not for others. Just too brittle and it cracks easy with tension. Have to make some magnet blocks that will have a combined push of around 55 lbs so not sure it will hold.

thay

Quote from: Thaelin on 2019.07.30, 11:43:18
Thanks TinMan, I will get into the setups and see what I can find. PLA is ok for some things but not for others. Just too brittle and it cracks easy with tension. Have to make some magnet blocks that will have a combined push of around 55 lbs so not sure it will hold.

thay

Want strength-->poly carbonate is the way to go  O0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0GdrC21qWw

Brad

Quote from: TinMan on 2019.07.30, 05:16:24
Good job Mags  O0
Welcome to the printing world.

With the new high perm magnetic filaments coming out,there won't be much we can't  print.

Brad.

Yeah, Im quickly seeing this being a must have tool. The spool of Sunlu transparent pla seems to be very strong. I tossed the dog on the concrete floor and nada, Just a bit of dirt where it impacted. Maybe it is stronger as it doesnt have all the pigment. Was reading some reviews on iron pla and they say it is too brittle and the filament at times breaks off the roll while in the middle of a print. So Im thinking the more additives, the weaker. Unless its maybe carbon fiber.

Just making small stuff to gain experience with the machine before I waste material on large mistakes. Had a couple of bad starts on the mini rotor where the first circular strings were pulling off the bed as it went around. I stepped up the nozzle to 210deg from 200 and it seems just about right. Need to familiarize myself with what happens at diff temps. Can go to 220 on this filament. Going to get a nozzle set with some .2mm, .25mm and 3mm for some higher accuracy for certain things.

Neat stuff.  Read some things on how some printers are fairly noisy. But this thing I could fall asleep to.  The Easythreed nano is cheap and supposedly super quiet. And the reviews show it prints quite well.   But, a regular creality ender 3 can be had for just about the same cost.

Mags

Quote from: JimBoot on 2019.07.30, 05:50:31
Nice Mags,
Some things that have helped me. I only print on glass. Just got a mirror tile adjusted it for size them put a spacer on the z carriage stop switch. Always ask yourself does the object require infill, some models can be self supporting.
Things I'm exploring
Photogrammetry, Drone printing (TPU) &  metal filaments. They can get expensive. I'd like to get some of the virtual foundary filaments. I think they're black good is basically carbon in a suspension. Now I've convinced my wife to let me use her kiln, the project ideas start to mount :)

This removable magnetic bed sheet seems to work well. just peal it off and bend it to remove the part. Was anticipating having to get the glass bed for this as some say their beds were not level, lower in the middle, but this one seems to be fine.  If things go well with this one, I want to get a couple more. have some laser projects to make cases for.
The infill for the rotor was hexagon and I wanted that. The dog was just what it was on the sd card. But Ill be doing some thing that I wont want infill. The dog did beautiful without supports. I was worried about the ears, but it did ledges and spreading them out perfectly. Most pics of the 'creality test dog' had supports.

Ive seen a printed z level home switch adjuster. I can see where fine tuning that could perfect things when it comes to .1mm accuracy.

Mags

I've been using an Ender3 for several months so I thought I would offer some of my experiences with it.

First off, if you have the plastic extruder feeder, get rid of it now and replace it with the aluminum upgrade. Mine cracked shortly after the first roll of filament. It took me weeks to find the problem because  they crack under the roller. You start having inconsistent bad prints and jammed nozzles and it gets progressively worse the more you print.

The bed sheet is fine for a while but every print leaves a minute layer of plastic on it. After several batches of prints it gets more and more difficult to get the first layer to adhere properly.  I just ordered a borosilicate glass bed and a PEI sheet to go on it.

If you are using Cura 3.1 that comes with the printer you'll want to upgrade to 4.1. If you need supports and have holes on a vertical face 3.1 will add external towers for the holes even if you don't need them. Those just cost me 3 failed prints with petg on a thin vertical part. With 4.1 they have a tool to block supports wherever you don't want them.

These are the upgrades if you are interested:

Creality 3D All Metal MK-8 Extruder Feeder Drive Aluminum 1.75mm
https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Extruder-Aluminum/dp/B07J44QW8B/

[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer Borosilicate Glass for The Creality Ender-3-4mm Thick.
https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Creality-Ender-3-4mm/dp/B07DFTKCV9

[Gulfcoast Robotics] PEI Sheet 9" x 9" (235mm x 235mm) 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M Adhesive for Creality Ender 3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KCVDPXH

Cadman

Was just testing tolerances in measurements.   Need to make stator magnet tubes for these 15mm x 3mm x 2mm neo mags that can be had at Home Depot. I have a nice sized stash of many neo mags they have on the shelf.

This tube is 14.9mm long and 5.2mm dia with 100% infill.  The inner space for the magnet width and height were 2.047mm x 3.03mm in the 3d environment. The magnet was tight but went in beautifully. Again, Im very impressed. :D  I expected the tube to crack for how snug it was going in, but it didnt.

Mags

Updated stator tube 10mm dia.  Next will be a control arm added. Once I get the base made and 6 stationary stators with 1 active stator, then I will start the MMM thread and run the test.

Mags

This is the first print using supports. The support snapped of easy n clean.

All of this small printing has my mind going.  On the original MMM I had to make all the parts perfect by hand. It is just a relief that I dont have to anymore.

Mags

Guys,

It looks like you are producing loads of fixtures and parts with your 3DP's, and they look great.

Is it not getting expensive with all the filament material you are using?

Quote from: poynt99 on 2019.08.04, 01:07:02
Guys,

It looks like you are producing loads of fixtures and parts with your 3DP's, and they look great.

Is it not getting expensive with all the filament material you are using?

If you are making large parts with lots of infill (framework or solid inside the model) and supports(very easily removable when the print is done. Holds up horizontal levels of the print) then I suppose you could use a lot of filament.
So far with the small parts and the test dog, ive used 1 outer layer of the 2.2lb(1 kg) roll I ordered for 18 dollars. 

Lets put it this way so far.  Id rather buy filament than ink for my printer any day.  ;)  Got some more rolls coming this week. The colors, transparent  and others, there is a lot to play with.

Mags

Quote from: poynt99 on 2019.08.04, 01:07:02
Guys,

It looks like you are producing loads of fixtures and parts with your 3DP's, and they look great.

Is it not getting expensive with all the filament material you are using?

Not sure about other printers,but with my Anet A8 i can enter the cost of the filament per meter,and the cost per Kw of power in my slicer (CURA),and when i place a model into CURA,it will give me the total cost to print that model.

For example,the gear pictured below cost 22.4 cents to print in total.
To buy 100 meters of filament cost's me $17.50 delivered to my door.
using PLA,i can print without heating the bed with no problem at all,and so the printer uses very little power to run-->around 500 watt hours.

So you have to ask yourself,where could you buy a large gear like that for under 23 cent's ?
The other thing is,i don't even have to leave my house. I design and print my parts exactly as i need them.
These printers have a precision of up to 10 micron's,and with the new conductive filaments out now,you can print circuit boards  O0.

So,no more hours spent on the lathe machining rotors for pulse motor's--no more expensive plexiglass to buy for the rotors either.

So,these 3D printers are an amazing tool,and so very cheap for what they are.
It now cost's me more to boil the kettle and make a coffee than it dose to print out all the parts for a pulse motor.



Brad

Here is an example of a large print Darren.
The dimensions are 200mm wide,180mm deep,and 220mm high.

You can see the time it will take to print,and the cost without and with the heated bed turned on.
So 5h.25m to print--Total cost--$1.72 without the heated bed turned off,and $2.17 with the heated bed turned on.
I have the heated bed cost's set at a temperature of 60*C,as you would never need it higher than that for PLA,which is what i use.


Brad

Quote from: TinMan on 2019.08.04, 01:53:33
Not sure about other printers,but with my Anet A8 i can enter the cost of the filament per meter,and the cost per Kw of power in my slicer (CURA),and when i place a model into CURA,it will give me the total cost to print that model.

For example,the gear pictured below cost 22.4 cents to print in total.
To buy 100 meters of filament cost's me $17.50 delivered to my door.
using PLA,i can print without heating the bed with no problem at all,and so the printer uses very little power to run-->around 500 watt hours.

So you have to ask yourself,where could you buy a large gear like that for under 23 cent's ?
The other thing is,i don't even have to leave my house. I design and print my parts exactly as i need them.
These printers have a precision of up to 10 micron's,and with the new conductive filaments out now,you can print circuit boards  O0.

So,no more hours spent on the lathe machining rotors for pulse motor's--no more expensive plexiglass to buy for the rotors either.

So,these 3D printers are an amazing tool,and so very cheap for what they are.
It now cost's me more to boil the kettle and make a coffee than it dose to print out all the parts for a pulse motor.



Brad

"So you have to ask yourself,where could you buy a large gear like that for under 23 cent's ?
The other thing is,i don't even have to leave my house. I design and print my parts exactly as i need them.

That is exactly the way I am looking at this. Like how long would we have to look for say 2 gears that mesh, needed physical size and maybe each needs diff axles ? Its not a joy.
And yes, make what you need. need a spacer, bam, down to .01mm thickness accuracy.  And it gets done while you do other things. Need to make changes? Load it back to 3d soft and adjust and reprint.  Some times it can take a couple redos to get it right. Its not till you hold it in your hand and see it for real that you will quickly appreciate what this is all about.  Like my electric bike.  Lol, people think very little of it and its capabilities, until they ride it. ;)

The only reason Im going small with the mag motor parts is that now I can. And the mags are available at home depot. just incase anyone wants to print up my files Ill post and take a trip to the depot 'today' and try things for themselves.  The other awesome thing is, the replicators can actually replicate exact parts for a build, and, like Im doing, making sure most anyone has access to other parts needed. Going small is a lot cheaper than going large, this 3d printing is an excellent tool for just that.

Mags

Quote from: TinMan on 2019.08.04, 02:16:02
Here is an example of a large print Darren.
The dimensions are 200mm wide,180mm deep,and 220mm high.

You can see the time it will take to print,and the cost without and with the heated bed turned on.
So 5h.25m to print--Total cost--$1.72 without the heated bed turned off,and $2.17 with the heated bed turned on.
I have the heated bed cost's set at a temperature of 60*C,as you would never need it higher than that for PLA,which is what i use.


Brad

"So 5h.25m to print"

What speed and resolution to make that model in that amount of time?  What are the dimensions of the model?

My buddy wants a star wars thermal detonator. its made in 4 parts, top half of sphere, bottom half and 2 parts that snap in and slide. the thing is only over 6cm dia and prints all the parts separated on the bed in 1 print. over 17 hours at .01mm resolution.  At typical .02mm about 9hrs.

Just wondering cuz that model you show looks like it would take longer.

Mags

Yeah, that's all really amazing guys.

I think I could really use one myself. I also like the idea of making PCB's with this,even though I am now in the groove/flow of designing them and sending off to China for production very cheap. But it can take weeks for the boat to get here. Do you have any more info on that filament and methods Brad?

Also, there must be many models out there, which one?

I have possession of a Warthog sw-120 router table at the moment. 1100lbs weight. Runs well, been in storage for 10 years, Stepper controllers are working but out of date. New ones are plug compatible. Working with Flashcut cnc software to get the motor parameters tweaked.Performed a tool path in mid air. That worked. Jogged a cutting session. There is drift in the vertical stability.Table was connected to an XP machine with a proprietary interface card running Enroute3 with a usb security Id dongle. The card went toast. Cleaned out a laptop from win7 to win 10 upgrade and re-imaged with win10. Enroute needs XP to read the dongle. XP USB historical nightmare.
Enroute need card to drive motors. Owner bought Flashcut cnc to drive table.
I then installed an Oracle VM XP appliance and installed Enroute in there. Enroute reads dongle and runs but cannot drive table. It can be used to create toolpath files. Other Open source software can be used to drive table also. I have a Prusa printer so the experience is there. Flashcut is installed in Win10 which has access to the shared folder from the Enroute 3 XPVM.I get table motor specs Monday and I attempt a toolpath cut.My part in this adventure was to get the laptop, the table and software up to a flawless production runtime, house it temporarily, run jobs on it and design new ones.My goals are to make a head jig for PLA extrusion and metal cutting, and copy my Prusa environment over to the Warthog.

That's quite a project GK.

Quote from: giantkiller on 2019.08.04, 03:07:37
I have possession of a Warthog sw-120 router table at the moment. 1100lbs weight. Runs well, been in storage for 10 years, Stepper controllers are working but out of date. New ones are plug compatible. Working with Flashcut cnc software to get the motor parameters tweaked.Performed a tool path in mid air. That worked. Jogged a cutting session. There is drift in the vertical stability.Table was connected to an XP machine with a proprietary interface card running Enroute3 with a usb security Id dongle. The card went toast. Cleaned out a laptop from win7 to win 10 upgrade and re-imaged with win10. Enroute needs XP to read the dongle. XP USB historical nightmare.
Enroute need card to drive motors. Owner bought Flashcut cnc to drive table.
I then installed an Oracle VM XP appliance and installed Enroute in there. Enroute reads dongle and runs but cannot drive table. It can be used to create toolpath files. Other Open source software can be used to drive table also. I have a Prusa printer so the experience is there. Flashcut is installed in Win10 which has access to the shared folder from the Enroute 3 XPVM.I get table motor specs Monday and I attempt a toolpath cut.My part in this adventure was to get the laptop, the table and software up to a flawless production runtime, house it temporarily, run jobs on it and design new ones.My goals are to make a head jig for PLA extrusion and metal cutting, and copy my Prusa environment over to the Warthog.

Nice. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2500mW-Blue-Laser-Module-3-Pin-DIY-Laser-Engraving-Module-Fits-3018-CNC-Router/264294760360?hash=item3d8931ffa8:g:YooAAOSwXRRcvodz

They are not that expensive, depending on what you want to cut or engrave.

Mags

Quote from: poynt99 on 2019.08.04, 03:04:11
Yeah, that's all really amazing guys.

I think I could really use one myself. I also like the idea of making PCB's with this,even though I am now in the groove/flow of designing them and sending off to China for production very cheap. But it can take weeks for the boat to get here. Do you have any more info on that filament and methods Brad?

Also, there must be many models out there, which one?

"Also, there must be many models out there, which one?"

Best to look at reviews on web and YT.  I chose the Creality Ender 3 pro as it seems very popular and creality seems to gotten most things right.
Probably one of the first criteria is the size of prints you want, and what quality of prints. Some only do PLA filament and others can do it all. Circuit boards may be a special material and maybe diff print heads and nozzle. Not sure.  But with that and what you will learn about them along with reviewing, you can make the best decision for your purposes.

Mine was 259 shipped in 2 days. 2hr careful assy and about an hr of tweaking things that just seemed to need tweaking. Bed leveling then test print. Tons of setup vids even just for bed leveling.  I used a postit and tweaked the bed till it was just a bit tight to slide the paper between the print nozzle and the bed. Some printers level automatically, mine is manual with 4 large wheels at each corner. works just fine. Some yt guys will say fold the postit in half and then clearly demonstrate the level is too low and the first layer wont stick. its like hotgluing a bead one inch above where you want it to be, except this is quicker at cooling off and never gets a good foundation with the bed surface.

Just look into it and you will learn quick. And look at filaments like on ebay and you will see the many things that are available. Glow filament, clear, carbonfiber, abs, flexible tpu. Like I said earlier, everyone here should have one.  I want a couple more for more output speed. 4 of these enders for about 1000 bux.  For what I want and need, no brainer. O0

Mags

Mags

Thanks mags.

I will be looking into this...

Quote from: poynt99 on 2019.08.04, 03:04:11
Yeah, that's all really amazing guys.

I think I could really use one myself. I also like the idea of making PCB's with this,even though I am now in the groove/flow of designing them and sending off to China for production very cheap. But it can take weeks for the boat to get here. Do you have any more info on that filament and methods Brad?

Also, there must be many models out there, which one?

I have not used the conductive filament,but i believe that Jimboot has,and he seems well informed about the newer filaments available--maybe he can give you a few pointers.

As i had never used a 3D printer before,and it looked a little daunting to use at first glance,i just bought the cheapest one from ebay i could find,which was the Anet A8.
My very first test print (a pyramid) turned out perfect,and within a week i knew all the settings needed to make a perfect print. The digital display and menu on the Anet A8 is very easy to get to know,and you can make adjustments on the fly,such as bed and extruder temperatures,filament flow amount,and printing speeds.

Although the cheapest printer at the time,the Anet A8 never misses a beat,and prints just as well as the more expensive printers. My next test is trying satin filament,which i ordered last week.

Maker's Muse on youtube dose reviews on every printer that comes out,so maybe have a look at his youtube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse/videos?disable_polymer=1

Once you get one Darren,and learn how to use it,you will wonder as to how you did without it for so long.


Brad

Made a motor base tonight. About 100mm dia and 5mm thick. Just tried 10% infill as I wanted to see it and it was 1hr 44m.

Some pics.

Made stator rails to make sure they are at correct angles. so straight and smooth. Im still in disbelief with how well this works out. Next will be the stationary test stators with 1 active stator to test to see if the other 6 stators have enough push and pull to switch the 7th stator. My tests 10 years ago worked but again, small mags far from eachother was weak but worked. Just fidling with 2 rotor mags and 1 stator, this will have some good push pull when all in place.

Mags

Quote from: Magluvin on 2019.08.04, 08:07:39
Made a motor base tonight. About 100mm dia and 5mm thick. Just tried 10% infill as I wanted to see it and it was 1hr 44m.

Some pics.

Made stator rails to make sure they are at correct angles. so straight and smooth. Im still in disbelief with how well this works out. Next will be the stationary test stators with 1 active stator to test to see if the other 6 stators have enough push and pull to switch the 7th stator. My tests 10 years ago worked but again, small mags far from eachother was weak but worked. Just fidling with 2 rotor mags and 1 stator, this will have some good push pull when all in place.

Mags

Looks good Mags.
I cant quite work out what your doing here-->how the pulse motor is set up,but i'm sure it will all click when i see it altogether  O0.

That clear PLA looks like it would make good light diffusers.


Brad

Thanks Brad.

Looking good guys.

Quote from: Magluvin on 2019.08.04, 02:46:14
"So 5h.25m to print"

What speed and resolution to make that model in that amount of time?  What are the dimensions of the model?

My buddy wants a star wars thermal detonator. its made in 4 parts, top half of sphere, bottom half and 2 parts that snap in and slide. the thing is only over 6cm dia and prints all the parts separated on the bed in 1 print. over

Just wondering cuz that model you show looks like it would take longer.

Mags

Mag's
Do you have the STL files for your friends thermal detonator,as that sounds like way to much time for a simple print. I would like to load them in my machine,and see what time frame it gives.
So far,all prints have been within +/- 10% of the slicers estimated time.

Quote17 hours at .01mm resolution.  At typical .02mm about 9hrs.

Well no wonder it will take so long.
High resolution(layer height) should be .1mm,not .01mm,and normal resolution is .2mm,not .02mm.

For example--i just sliced the castle at .05mm layer heights,as .01 was going to take 15 minute's just to slice the model. So now see the print time below with .05mm layer height's,which is what i'm guessing you are referring to as resolution=layer heights?.
A sheet of A4 printer paper is 100 microns-->how much higher quality do you need?.
100 microns is quite low enough for excellent quality print's.


Brad

Ah.  Sorry.   .1mm not .01mm typo.  The printer only goes down to .1mm, as far as I know.  some go to .05mm. Even many more expensive ones are only .1mm. I suppose it depends on the motor resolution and or even belt pulley size, linear screw rod attributes.  Easythreed Dora claims .05mm but is about $400
Ill post the link to the td file when I get to my shop.

Mags

Quote from: TinMan on 2019.08.04, 12:16:36
Looks good Mags.
I cant quite work out what your doing here-->how the pulse motor is set up,but i'm sure it will all click when i see it altogether  O0.

That clear PLA looks like it would make good light diffusers.


Brad

Nah, not a pulse motor.  Once I get the stators done for this test setup, Ill make the thread.

Mad Mags in  The Load Warrior.  ^-^

Mags

Quote from: poynt99 on 2019.08.04, 03:25:15
That's quite a project GK.

Thanks. But quite easy to do.The hardest part was realizing that the win7 upgrade to win10 was the biggest buffoonery to try to fix. When I realized my mistake I moved the win7U drive to secondary position. Then nothing but expedient progress ensued.The laptop owner had the win7 fully socialized(facebook, picture progs, silly stuffy crap),  and production software installed with freeware AVG(antivirus guardian). They then did the FREE win10 upgrade(woohoo!). Crappled everything. Performance dropped to zero. I watched the resource monitor and after a 15 minutes all the graphs were at zero. Tip the mouse and you would have thought the solar system shutdown. All redlined for 15 minutes. Choke just short of smoke as we used to say in the Lan group at Lowry. After the install of the new ssd drive and the virgin win10 things really got quite easy and fast.I have charged the table owner nothing( I even bought the SSD) as we have a 50/50 agreement on all jobs, mine and his. The idea is we make money then the table can afford its own home. Maybe. I like having a toy the size of a transformer in my garage. Just like in the movie...

Made 2 stationary test stator assys to see how the rails on the base work out. I made a slot at the stator base with front extensions that measure the radius to the round hub in the middle of the motor base. The rails and the slots were printed with print lines in the same direction. The thing actually snaps on tight and can be repeatedly be removed and put back on.
Had just a bit of bottom edge swell and a tiny file cleaned that up. So 4 more just like that and then Ill create the single switching stator for the test run.

The angles of the mags are 30deg N up and the other is 30deg S up. So the active stator will be made to swing from a say 30 deg N up to 30 deg S up. Just a starting angle for testing.

Mags

Quote from: Magluvin on 2019.08.04, 16:57:07
Ah.  Sorry.   .1mm not .01mm typo.  The printer only goes down to .1mm, as far as I know.  some go to .05mm. Even many more expensive ones are only .1mm. I suppose it depends on the motor resolution and or even belt pulley size, linear screw rod attributes.  Easythreed Dora claims .05mm but is about $400
Ill post the link to the td file when I get to my shop.

Mags

Ok,so i just printed the small model below at .05mm layer height.
It added over an hour to the printing time,but i just wanted to see if the Anet A8 could print at .05mm.
Well,it seems this cheap little printer is up there with the best of them,as it printed perfect at .05mm layer heights.
In fact,i can no longer see the layer line's  O0

I must say Mag's,this cheapest of printers just gets better every day  :) --i'm a happy man.


Brad

I have to look to see where I got this file. I thought it was thingsverse but its not there.

Havnt tried .05mm. Havnt seen anything on the ender 3 able to do it yet either. .2mm is good for what Im doing for now. Ive got a nozzle kit coming with .2mm, .25mm, .3mm and some more .4mm. From reviews the .25 works very well.

Mags

Brad,

What did you pay for your Anet A8 again?

At amazon.ca they are like $400.  :o

And the Ender 3 Pro is about $350

(keep in mind these are worthless canadian dollars)

Quote from: poynt99 on 2019.08.06, 02:04:27
Brad,

What did you pay for your Anet A8 again?

At amazon.ca they are like $400.  :o

And the Ender 3 Pro is about $350

(keep in mind these are worthless canadian dollars)

I paid just $193.00 delivered,but i got 2 rolls of PLA in the deal as well. They are now around $260.00 AU delivered.


Brad

Quote from: poynt99 on 2019.08.06, 02:04:27
Brad,

What did you pay for your Anet A8 again?

At amazon.ca they are like $400.  :o

And the Ender 3 Pro is about $350

(keep in mind these are worthless canadian dollars)

Seems we can still get them for under $200.00 here in Oz.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Anet-A8-High-Precision-Reprap-i3-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-Acrylic-Frame-8G-SD-LOT-FT/223612185711?hash=item3410532c6f:m:mgBgldkc0XiyzrA3mf1_tOw

You need to open the select menu ,and scroll down and select A8,as the add is also for filaments.




Brad

Interesting. Looks like some one reproduced a Prusa in acrylic. A good way to get the price down. And the stability, accuracy and repeatiblilty are there as well. After the frame then the Tinkertoy, Lego world are at one's fingertips.

Got my ender on amazon in 2 days.  Ebay has them for under $200, seen some on the low 180s.

Mags

Ok. Made 4 more stator replicas. The mags are a hair tight and allows me to mess with magnet distance from the rotor. Still working on the 1 active stator in 3d land. And a disk with an arm/pin that will push on the active stator to see if all the other mags have enough push and pull to get the active stator to rotate(axial length) 60 deg before actuating the next stator.  Asymmetrical, only 1 stator touching the rotor at any time in rotation. So the actuator arm disk will be able to be adjusted a bit left or right of center of a rotor magnet that is in front of the stator to be switched. Just in case it helps any. Lots of thoghts on this in the past 10 years since the first one.  And what is fantastic is that im not breaking my back to do it and the short amount of time to do things I need to do.

Mags

Just got back to working on this thing and yesterday I found that most all of my .c4d 3d files were not saved.  Looked and looked. I usually save the 3d file, then save the .stl files then save the gcode files.  only thing I can think is that maybe the stl or gcode file save over the c4d files.  Gotta be more careful. So Im working on revised files and saving in separate folders. Cant revert the gcode or the stl files back to editable parts as I need them.  Sucks . lol.

Mags

I'm over my Anet E12.  >:(

Is Ender the go? Just want the tool to wucking furk.

The filament  called Xstrand  from Owens Corning  is said  to approach  mild  steel.  Can  it be used on these machines?

Quote from: JimBoot on 2019.09.06, 10:11:13
I'm over my Anet E12.  >:(

Is Ender the go? Just want the tool to wucking furk.

Hey Jim

Whats wrong with it?

Mags

Quote from: Magluvin on 2019.09.07, 00:24:10
Hey Jim

Whats wrong with it?

Mags

One thing I had a problem with was one of the steppers was intermittent. it was a motor harness plug in the controller box.  Diagnosed that it wasnt the motor by just swapping another steppers harness and manually activating the motor in the menu. So then I was seriously hoping it wasnt the control board. But, had to take the control board cover off anyway to see if it was just the harness wires or the plug. Loose plug. Its cable was tied tight to the other cables going out of the box. So it could have been pulled out by moving the cables outside the box by me during.

There is a lot of vids on these things that should cover most issues. 

Im very happy with the ender 3 pro. It does just about anything I need in the way of plastics so far.

Mags

Quote from: Paul-R on 2019.09.06, 15:04:25
The filament  called Xstrand  from Owens Corning  is said  to approach  mild  steel.  Can  it be used on these machines?

Hey Paul

Still just working with pla so far. Next for me will be Pteg.  It would depend on the melting temp of the material.  If its real hot, things other than just the heater would be the bed material, cooling to look at.  Will have to look at the specs


Mags

Quote from: Magluvin on 2019.09.07, 00:51:38
One thing I had a problem with was one of the steppers was intermittent. it was a motor harness plug in the controller box.  Diagnosed that it wasnt the motor by just swapping another steppers harness and manually activating the motor in the menu. So then I was seriously hoping it wasnt the control board. But, had to take the control board cover off anyway to see if it was just the harness wires or the plug. Loose plug. Its cable was tied tight to the other cables going out of the box. So it could have been pulled out by moving the cables outside the box by me during.

There is a lot of vids on these things that should cover most issues. 

Im very happy with the ender 3 pro. It does just about anything I need in the way of plastics so far.

Mags

Put on all metal hotend,
Zaxis belt to stop one side creeping,
Added a bondtech extruder,
Glass bed,
Replaced x axis belt

At the moment it works well for a while then has a block in the hotend. Every time there is  another issue with it. Print time is minimal. Less than 100 hours.

Quote from: JimBoot on 2019.09.09, 08:59:42
Put on all metal hotend,
Zaxis belt to stop one side creeping,
Added a bondtech extruder,
Glass bed,
Replaced x axis belt

At the moment it works well for a while then has a block in the hotend. Every time there is  another issue with it. Print time is minimal. Less than 100 hours.

Could it be the type of filament you are using?

Mags

Quote from: JimBoot on 2019.09.09, 08:59:42
At the moment it works well for a while then has a block in the hotend. Every time there is  another issue with it. Print time is minimal. Less than 100 hours.

You might want to try printing a dust stopper and attaching to the filament line.  Failing that, just rolling and taping a paper towel to the filament (so the filament slides between) can help catch dust.  When you're extruding 0.2mm, every bit counts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMDEsrgzC9M

If you switched filament, then the extrusion temp could also be a bit too low (or have some old filament stuck in the hot-end).   If still on PLA, I'd try upping 5-10degC for a >10min test print to see if that clears anything up.

3d printers are a lot more finicky than they advertise C.C

Quote from: JimBoot on 2019.09.09, 08:59:42
...
At the moment it works well for a while then has a block in the hotend. Every time there is  another issue with it. Print time is minimal. Less than 100 hours.

That is exactly what my Ender3 did when the plastic extruder arm cracked. From what I can see on the net your Anet uses the same parts. One other time was after I replaced a nozzle with one that had slightly shorter threads and didn't seal to the hot end. I have heard others report about the fitting holding the ptf tube to the hot end would no longer lock the tubing in place and allowed melted filament to escape, jamming it.

I'll bet your trouble is in one of these areas. I wouldn't ditch your printer just yet.

Have been working on the mag motor configurations.

Having 8 rotor mags and 7 stators, or 10 and 9, or 16 and 15, the amount of space to turn a stator mag, 1 at a time only, becomes a very small window, needing more torque from the other motor magnets in order to do so. But, going through many configs in 3d environment, 3 stators seems to be a magic number along with just about any even number of rotor magnets and gives the most space to switch the 3rd, having more leverage to do so. While 1 is in switch mode, the other 2 are in positions that have most torque against passing rotor magnets. Along with shorter switch action time using more stators, most other stators other than 2 that are pushing and pulling to activate 1 switching, are not helping a lot in the positions they are in with rotor magnets.  So now is the printing to test just 3 stators to see if 2 can push the 3rd through the switching.

Will show when done.

Mags

Quote from: Magluvin on 2019.09.15, 00:23:39
Have been working on the mag motor configurations.

Having 8 rotor mags and 7 stators, or 10 and 9, or 16 and 15, the amount of space to turn a stator mag, 1 at a time only, becomes a very small window, needing more torque from the other motor magnets in order to do so. But, going through many configs in 3d environment, 3 stators seems to be a magic number along with just about any even number of rotor magnets and gives the most space to switch the 3rd, having more leverage to do so. While 1 is in switch mode, the other 2 are in positions that have most torque against passing rotor magnets. Along with shorter switch action time using more stators, most other stators other than 2 that are pushing and pulling to activate 1 switching, are not helping a lot in the positions they are in with rotor magnets.  So now is the printing to test just 3 stators to see if 2 can push the 3rd through the switching.

Will show when done.

Mags

Sorry. gotta rework these ideas. When pulling off my stationary stators, I decided to retest the polarities, and sure enough, 2 of 6 were wrong. I had ordered some more 2x3x15 neos a while back and had tested that they were snug as the older ones and I can only assume I didnt note the polarity when doing so. So we have more torque than I have been testing with for a bit of time. C.C, anyway...

Mags

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I still will go the Ender as i need one for my wife's silversmith work anyway

the next big deal is here

https://science.sciencemag.org/content/366/6463/360

It would produce a smoother ABS type of result?

My ANET A8 needs to be put to more use, it didn't like 100F temperatures and running a fan at it gave some wobbly results. A plexi box/low speed fan over it would likely be a good idea... instead, it remained unplugged through Summer. 
Have got Perifractic's Worm from the famous game to print!

Here is a vid showing the possibilities for printing faster now.  I print at 60mmps usually. Havnt gone over 100.  This guys printer gets to around 800mmps.  So imagine when things advance in the coming years.  O0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibsBiALMMSE

Mags

Perhaps fellow members/users of 3D printing might be able to advise ?

Several years ago I started on a large project, a one third scale model of the Brayton Readymotor.

George Bailey Brayton was an American inventor who's work has mostly been forgotten, he could be considered the great granddaddy of the internal combustion engine. The " Brayton cycle " is now better known as the Jet engine.

I made several patterns and subsequent Iron castings but due to local foundries closing the major parts were never finished, particularly the flywheel.

The recent situation has given me some extra help in the workshop so I'm looking to try and finish this model who's only detail was a picture in a book.

The flywheel is 15,1/2" in diameter and a little over 2" deep. I'm asking if this pattern could be made using the 3D printing process? I'm wondering if these devices are capable of producing a near perfect surface finish to allow them to be " pulled " from a sand mould?

Attached are a few pictures of the progress. The Orange flywheel drawing has been drawn by a friend using CAD.

Cheers Graham.

I would split the CAD drawing into 6 identical segments with 1 spoke each, kind of pie shaped, then one segment would fit on most printer beds. Print 6 six thin walled duplicates and reassemble the pieces into the flywheel. You can tack 'weld' the pieces together with a wood burning wand, the kind used for engraving wood. Use a small length of filament for a welding rod.

Look up 'lost PLA casting'. People are getting good results with it.

edit: Near perfect surface finish? No. Not without a lot of sanding.
Cheers

Quote from: Grumage on 2020.07.09, 10:26:13
The flywheel is 15,1/2" in diameter and a little over 2" deep. I'm asking if this pattern could be made using the 3D printing process? I'm wondering if these devices are capable of producing a near perfect surface finish to allow them to be " pulled " from a sand mould?

Do you have an opnion or a spec for what this flywhwheel should weigh?

Hi Paul.

The 3D printing would be used as a pattern for the foundry to cast an Iron one. I'm guessing a finished weight of between 20 to 30 Kg.

Cheers Graham.

Edit.

Perhaps I should have mentioned that I build " working " scale model IC engines....

https://youtu.be/rhACUBzEGB4

O0

Quote from: Grumage on 2020.07.09, 17:33:51
Hi Paul.

The 3D printing would be used as a pattern for the foundry to cast an Iron one. I'm guessing a finished weight of between 20 to 30 Kg.

This will cost a few bob. There are some exotic 3D printing filaments. I wonder if there exists one that could give you that weight directly.v (You might be able to cast a lead one at home).

There are methods to attain very smooth 3D printouts:

This is one method (https://all3dp.com/2/pla-smoothing-a-beginner-s-guide/).

A video on how to use XTC-3D (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChkHuFU90WE)

Liquid 3D printing (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXFaeKRF2uU)

Simple way to make ultra-smooth 3D prints at home (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xFUNFG-UKE)

Finding someone who has the proper equipment and technique
for a reasonable price may be a challenge.

The Ultimate Guide to Finishing 3D Printed Parts (https://www.fictiv.com/hwg/fabricate/ultimate-guide-to-finishing-3d-printed-parts) as it is done
by most who want smooth detail.

That is an incredibly built little machine Grum! (https://youtu.be/rhACUBzEGB4)

Before being bitten by the Electrical/Electronic Bug as a youngster
that is where my interest was. I had dreams of becoming a
machinist who could make all sorts of steam and other engines.

If only our lives were two or three hundred years in order to
achieve all kinds of different skills!  Maybe in the future after the
Big Change we'll have that kind of life where we can pursue many,
many different skill paths.  We'll see!

Thanks for the interesting links and compliments muDped.  O0

Cheers Graham.

Creality does it again.  Assembly line printer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qo_J57U6DO4

Mags

Wow that is pretty awesome mags thanks for sharing

Quote from: Magluvin on 2020.08.05, 23:46:36
Creality does it again.  Assembly line printer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qo_J57U6DO4

Mags

Interesting but how speeded up is it? Also, are there figures for the engineering characteristics -  compressive, shear stresses etc

Thnaks guys

The advantage is that it can continually produce parts. No in between removal of the finished part and then restart.


Mags

In the market for a new printer. Any suggestions in the 3-400 range?

Quote from: JimBoot on 2020.08.15, 23:33:44
In the market for a new printer. Any suggestions in the 3-400 range?

I only have experience with Creality Ender 3 pro.   Love it.  No problems so far.


Mags

Thanks Mags, that's the feedback I have from others too.

Quote from: JimBoot on 2020.08.15, 23:33:44
In the market for a new printer. Any suggestions in the 3-400 range?

I have the Creality Ender 3 Pro since April and I am happy with it. I only printed about 50 things, but it worked fine. I found set up videos on YouTube, which helped a lot. It took me half a day till the first print. Height adjustment of the print platform before every print is cumbersome, but what do you expect for 230.--?

My plan was to eventually buy an Original Prusa i3 MK3S kit (or a commig model), but I now use Prusa 3D-printers in a shop where I can go for 40.-- a month and use all the tools, PCs and machines 24/7. This shops are called "maker cafes" or "maker shops". You have to look at several shops to find one of your liking. And join for the shortest period possible in order to check it out. I switched shops after half a year. I prefer that somebody is in shop to keep the things in order and clean. This is more expensive than the shops where the members have to do the cleaning and organising themselves. Well, people are like me, they drop everything when finished.

Greetings, Conrad

I like the Prusa Mini very much, but I have never used one. The reviews and YouTube videos are very favourable:

https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/994-original-prusa-mini.html leadtime 7 weeks, EUR 375.--

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce4oluQxyc0

https://pick3dprinter.com/original-prusa-mini-review/

https://all3dp.com/1/original-prusa-mini-review-3d-printer-specs/

THanks Conrad I've gone with the ender 3 V2.

Quote from: JimBoot on 2020.08.21, 03:06:47
THanks Conrad I've gone with the ender 3 V2.

Nice.. let me know how it is.  Make sure belts are tight.  That was an issue I had with issues in surface irregularities, like side walls. So not an issue with printer. An issue with assembly.


Mags

You guys need to get real.

Unless you are making ornaments for your mantlepiece, you need to know how strong these products are. For all you know, they may have no more strength than Edinburgh Rock.

Quote from: Paul-R on 2020.08.22, 10:49:21
You guys need to get real.

Unless you are making ornaments for your mantlepiece, you need to know how strong these products are. For all you know, they may have no more strength than Edinburgh Rock.

For all who have not yet bought a 3D-Printer:

The printed objects are very strong and can be made even stronger by design (adding strengthening support-structures). Like all plastic products, the printed objects do not like heat, more than 80 centigrades are a problem. Strange enough the printed objects are not watertight without treatment (painting or heating the surface for a few seconds with a flame).

Industry often uses 3D-printers to fabricate prototypes. But more and more 3D-printers are used to fabricate products which have to be customized. Also metal parts can be 3D-printed, but these printers are expensive an need housings and very god ventilation with good air filters.

I am using a 3D-printer as a hobbyist to make strange contraptions (machines generating electrostatic charges, strange electric motors). Very complicated and functional parts can be made. Agreed, what I make is of no practical value but for me it is educational and entertaining.

If you ever tried to make something at home, you will be amazed what can be done with a 3D-printer. If you make bigger objects, parts can be glued together. It is very practical to print hinges or fasteners for use with wooden or metal parts.

The big hurdle when 3D-printing is making the technical 3D drawing. The slicing (translating the 3D-drawing into gcode) and the printing are almost trivial after gaining a little experience.

It is important to choose the right printer, I suggest Prusa printers or the new creality cr 6 se (which have many weeks of lead time). All 3D-printers that need manual print bed leveling are a hussle and not well suited for beginners.

I am a 3D-printer fan.

Greetings, Conrad

Quote from: conradelektro on 2020.08.22, 19:49:13
For all who have not yet bought a 3D-Printer:

The printed objects are very strong and can be made even stronger by design (adding strengthening support-structures)...

Yes, but for any given material, do you have a Vickers Hardness Number, the shear stress, Youngs modulus? i.e. if using 3D printed parts for rotating prototypes, a likely scenario, at what speed would a section x mm x y mm start to fly apart under centrepetal forces?

Quote from: Paul-R on 2020.08.22, 10:49:21
You guys need to get real.

Unless you are making ornaments for your mantlepiece, you need to know how strong these products are. For all you know, they may have no more strength than Edinburgh Rock.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=strong+3d+prints


Mags

Quote from: Magluvin on 2020.08.22, 23:27:08
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=strong+3d+prints

Mags

Very nice collection of helpful videos, thank you.

Greetings, Conrad

Here is a 5 flange bobbin printed PLA in 5 pieces for an EC52 ferrite core.  The printer used is a Prusa i3 MK2 which is so accurate that these pieces are designed with .004" (.1mm) clearance so they actually snap together and then are glued with CA.  The wall thickness is .050" (1.27mm)

This bobbin design provides a very low inter-winding capacitance in any given inductor.

Regards,
Pm

I have Prusa i3 MK2 too.But graduated to a 4(X) foot x 8(Y) foot x 6(Z) inch Warthog router table. By swapping heads I can do just about anything.

Quote from: giantkiller on 2020.09.03, 15:16:00
I have Prusa i3 MK2 too.But graduated to a 4(X) foot x 8(Y) foot x 6(Z) inch Warthog router table. By swapping heads I can do just about anything.

That sounds like a sweet setup. Nice output too.

Who needs em?  >:-)

From my post here:-

https://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=3701.msg83013#msg83013

Some " quality " seasond Beech.... And a 3 axies CNC milling machine.

Cheers Graham.

Quote from: Grumage on 2020.09.08, 14:56:17

Some " quality " seasond Beech.... And a 3 axies CNC milling machine.

This is fine but I strongly suspect it is seriously expensive.

Anyone using Blender?.

Started using the software a week ago and it's like CAD on steroids. Super easy to create 3D meshes and save/edit as stl files. I suspect this is 90% faster than using FreeCad or other programs and it's open source/free.

This guy using blender is incredible...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jHUY3qoBu8

Plastic
We desperately need solutions to what we use everyday and what we do with it once we're done with it

You want to get ill ?
Look at the global nightmare with recycling plastic !

Has fallen drastically short ...

Here a young man started a grass root open source journey...
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=76AFNIxYjUE

And absolutely ....3D printing is a huge part of solution !

We need more like this ( I am looking into how to join this recycling effort and be effective!
And I see they make their own plastic feed stock for 3D printing!

AC
Quote
Blender?.

Started using the software a week ago and it's like CAD on steroids. Super easy to create 3D meshes and save/edit as stl files. I suspect this is 90% faster than using FreeCad or other programs and it's open source/free.

This guy using blender is incredible...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jHUY3qoBu8

End quote

Absolutely amazing !!
Thx
Chet

Chet
What I find truly amazing is that a person can create a 3D model in this software then 3D print it and have a form literally impossible to make any other way.

It's not what we see on the outside but the internal geometry which I find so exciting. I used to dream about creating these kinds of complex forms in the past however the sheer complexity made it almost impossible. I can't say enough good things about 3D printing and it's hard to imagine not having one now.

Regards
AC

Quote from: Chet K on 2021.03.20, 15:10:54
Plastic
We desperately need solutions to what we use everyday and what we do with it once we're done with it

You want to get ill ?
Look at the global nightmare with recycling plastic !

The solution is anaerobic pyrolytic conversion.

Bake the stuff and fractionally distill the ensuing gunk.

But we need to solve the problems of mild steel filament.

Printed a few of these yesterday...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56298

A 3D printed ball bearing using 6mm airsoft bb's with a snap together cage. It has less than 1mm of play and ran smooth with very little friction. Some could ask what use it has and I thought of many reasons.

It's not well known but metal ball bearings show a great deal of drag under the influence of strong magnet fields. They also conduct electricity scoring the races or arcing over at higher voltages however a plastic bearing has none of these faults. I have to wonder how the new ceramic PLA would stand up?, it could solve the wear issue.

Regards
AC 

Quote from: Allcanadian on 2021.03.27, 00:07:12
Printed a few of these yesterday...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:56298

A 3D printed ball bearing using 6mm airsoft bb's

It would be good to know the Vickers Hardness Number of this material to compare with the value for standard engineering ball bearings.

But it is easy to be obsessed with high performance. Low or Moderate performace may be enough and the benefits that you allude to of the non magnetic properties come to the fore. This is fine for a technology demonstrator but the problem may return when building a full scale prototype.

bump

Thanks Itsu, this is the one.  I have a great printer but am absolutely bad at cad use. I can do simple things but that is it. What I need is a printed base that has a .75 inch square block in the center with a .5 hole for round mags to fit. On both sides of that, I would like to have a 45 degree slanted piece so that the magnet can be angled and not hit the coil face.  Two mounting holes for screws to bolt it to a rotor as well.  Hope that description is ok, can try and up a pic if necessary.

Hi Thaelin,

i just noticed in the chat box the request for the 3D printer thread, so i searched for it and bumped it.

I have no 3D printer myself, but many here do, so hopefully those with one and knowledge about it could help you.

A drawing would tell more then a thousand words, so yes "up a pic" if you can.

Regards Itsu 

You have to be careful with CAD and 3D printers. I am pretty sure that some printers will only feed off particular software.

Thaelin
Try to do a rough sketch, are you able to slice the stl (cad file) ok?

  Hi Peter:
     Yes I can do .stl just fine. I use an EMack running Cura and its a great mix. Win can not even see the printer?????  Will
sketch up a model and try to  post it here.
thay

Quote from: Thaelin on 2021.07.25, 16:55:18
  Hi Peter:
     Yes I can do .stl just fine. I use an EMack running Cura and its a great mix. Win can not even see the printer?????  Will
sketch up a model and try to  post it here.
thay

Designspark Mechanical is free and can easily do the holes in the cube as you wish, with beveled edges. Have it but not gotten into it that far yet.

Thanks much Mags, only for Win84 and I only have Linux machines and the eMac. Always a fight
to do simple things it seems.

I use free cad, find it fairly fast to use but it has issues ie topological naming issue which is annoying, thanks mags will check that out when I get some time.

Peterae

I also use Freecad 0.18 with the A2Plus addon to help merge parts.

For the the really funky tapered/twisted/multi-curved forms I started using Blender, https://www.blender.org/

Regards
AC

Quote from: Allcanadian on 2021.07.28, 15:29:38
Peterae

I also use Freecad 0.18 with the A2Plus addon to help merge parts.

For the the really funky tapered/twisted/multi-curved forms I started using Blender, https://www.blender.org/

Regards
AC

I have used Blender since 2008 and I took a long break (5 years) now I'm back at it. I have win 7 ultimate and an old Dell something or other?? LOL, but blender never lets me down. Im using 2.79 atm. Im looking to start up an online graphics firm by the first of the year. I got into electrical engineering and got myself a Mars Pro 2. I've used it 3 times, 2 fails and 1 success but over all after covid hit I never printed again. I got hit with a major loss in income and I know that being novice to 3D printing Im bound to break something so Im just sitting on this printer. Sad times. I went to school for Architectural Design and Blueprinting I can operate a few of the cad apps today but I find that Blender really cuts out a bunch of extra work that I already do with a ruler and pencil. I really enjoy hand-drafting everything first. It gives me a better idea because I focus more on everything. I can then load that draft into blender and model, animate, and bam I'm happy. Works well with ChiTuBox

I recently joined this Forum and Im finding some really great minds. I hope to get more involved in the coming months as this project Im currently working on will soon be open sourced and hope to bring something new to the table. I have always been fascinated with water and electricity. My wife fell ill 5 years ago and I have been working on a device that will help her. I soon fell ill and I began to work on fixing my illness as she is bed ridden so someone has to be functional. What I have come up with is a Hyperbolic chamber out of an LG fridge. Im hacking all the electronics and adding some Arduino components and then I will have to print certain items for the interior and exterior. Im very excited if you cant tell in my post here. LOL So im just really saying hello and I thank anyone in advance if they are contributors to any of my work going forward. Hers a few things to look at.

Regards, J

Hey AWT
I got into blender working on Viktor Schaubergers technology which basically uses no straight lines only curved forms. What Viktor called a space curve spiral form which is one spin axis within another within another, lol. It's no wonder so few caught on to what he was doing because it's mind numbing. There is so much going on within any given three dimensional space it gives me a headache just thinking about it.

So all the geometry must be curved always folding the flow inward in on itself producing corkscrew type flows within other corkscrew flows. So it makes perfect sense that if all we can visualize is 2D line diagrams then 3D flows within 3D flows within 3D flows is basically impossible. How Viktor managed to work all this out let alone fabricate the structure required to do this is unbelievable.

So it remains a work in progress...

Regards
AC

"A breakthrough 3D-printed material incredibly strong and ductile. A new 3D-printed high-performance nanostructured alloy which is incredibly strong and ductile, could open doors for medicine and the aerospace industry".

https://interestingengineering.com/science/breakthrough-3d-printed-material

I'm willing to free ship a 4D electrode if someone agrees to post a scan.

-ancient GMO