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Author Topic: Pulse motor build off time.  (Read 49811 times)
Group: Guest
Thanks Matt,

 I plan to do a incoder, are you reading my mind?

I'm also adding a generator field at TDC, this turn this motor into a generator also.

I will have two microcontrollers running this baby, Atmega 328 chips. One for the motor controls and the other for LCD read out for RPM and so on.

Tom >:-)
   
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Hi All,

Got my magnets in today, moving very fast to get this running soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyhFmVvvNUg

Tom
   
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Tommey
I can here the TinMans Knees rattling from here!!! :D

all kidding aside
I love it!!

thx for sharing your hard work.

Chet
   
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Posts: 520
@TR

Very nice build. There are not really any variables regarding the physical build since movement is movement and magnets are magnets, so this part of the build requires good worksmanship which you have displayed as being top notch. But the next part is where I feel you can go soooooooo wrong and because of this, I would really recommend you take a few steps back and do some major homework for a few days first.

Basically, what I would recommend you do is provide guys here with the build data like stroke length, magnet type and dimensions and chamber inner and outer diameters. Also, I would suggest you try and identify the actual RPM that the structure could support and that you will anticipate using. With that information, maybe some guys here can make a quick mock up of just one chamber and magnet and stroke length with a drill and then help you find the BEST COIL scheme. It does not have to be exactly to your spec as long as it is about the same ratios.

Since the output coil aspect of your build is the most important part, a builder could spend years just on that research alone.

At least do some single chamber tests before you go all out and wind all your coils.

But from your last video, do I understand correctly that you plan to use drive coils at the foot of each chamber and pickup coils over the stroke length of the magnet. WHY would you do that? Why would you use drive coils that will produce two polarities one that will be wasted and the other that better be timed so right and positioned so perfectly when you already have a central shaft.

But if your plan is to use pulsed drive coils at the base of the chambers and have enough torque developed on the center shaft to turn a generator or anything like that, I would say forget it man.

If I was you, and if the build requires a pulsed drive, then I would simply put a small pulsed drive motor on the shaft (where you can recover any flyback and work on the 8 pick up coils to produce maximum output.

Or, maybe I have misunderstood your plans. Sorry for questioning but you know, @members are not only here to chuckle up and just give you encouragement and say, hey, good work. I think it is our responsibility to point out potential checkmates which I have not read anywhere, but they still do exist and will always show themselves when its time to start her up, but usually by then, it's too late and guys just wind up putting there builds on their shelf and work on something else. A little bit of R&D on the coiling could go a long way.

Good work though.

wattsup

« Last Edit: 2014-11-26, 00:35:52 by wattsup »


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Group: Guest
Or, maybe I have misunderstood your plans.

Tom is one of those kind of guys where you just have to sit back and watch him work.  He has a sense of "feel" like no one I have ever seen.  Somehow his stuff just lands at or very near optimum.  It must be a rare kind of mechanical intuitiveness.  I wish I had it.

Don't be surprised if he puts this all together and has something that exceeds 95% efficiency.


Something else to take note is the deafening silence from TinMan.

This is going to be a PMBO to remember.    :o
   
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The TinMan is working 90 hour weeks these days....

   

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Buy me some coffee

Something else to take note is the deafening silence from TinMan.

This is going to be a PMBO to remember.    :o
;D


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
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Hi All,

I added a few more part to this build today, just about ready for me to make the coils next.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDyYrCgkqv8

Tom
   

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Buy me some coffee
Hi All,

I added a few more part to this build today, just about ready for me to make the coils next.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDyYrCgkqv8

Tom
Looking good Tom ;)


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
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@TR

So from what I gather with your latest video, that flywheel is there as an inertia storage assist and will not be used with an outer belt and drive motor. Hmmmmmmm.

So you want on put drive coils at the base of each 8 chambers to push up the end magnet, but you will run into checkmate since the position of the drive coils need to be the same as any type of pickup coil since your magnet is at the end of each wooden cylinder. I think you better draw this out before your final stages.

Anyways, should you change your mind in the build, I have taken a few minutes to draw an idea on how you can make pick up coils to draw energy off those push/pull magnets.

Really, you may need to make at least three different pick up coil types, then test them, then make your final 8.

If you only wind one multi-turn multi-layer coil, the neutral of the magnet passage will effect 100% of your coil output at each pass.

By using pancaked type, multi stacks, the neutral can only be in one or two stacks and not in the complete output coil. The magnet passes and is progressively changing inside each individual stack so the neutral effects becomes confined to only a percentage of the pick up coil and not in all of it when using one huge coil.

Also, million turn coils will give you higher voltage, big deal, you will still have to step it down to use it. With pancaked, the lines are radial outward and the paralleling will increase amperage output at a lower more workable voltage.

That's the theory anyway.

So, again, drive coil at the base of those magnet chambers will require so much juice and the timing will have to be electronically controlled per 8 drive coils, it just seems way overkill when your real timing is already hard built into the actual rotation. Since you added that flywheel, what I recommend is doing a mix with Bedini style using the flywheel, embed some magnets into the outer edge of that wheel and run it with a simple pulsed coil and reed. The flywheel circumference will give you good leverage in turning the the 8 chamber magnets.

Then all you need to do is pull out from the 8 pick up coils enough to drive the one drive coil and your on your way.

All the best.

wattsup

PS: Notice in the drawing I have a second option where you can have two magnets in each of the 8 chambers, one closer to the base in case you want to keep your method, a second magnet per chamber will allow you drive coils to drive that the magnets closer to the base of each chamber, then use the outer magnet to impress into your secondaries.


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Group: Guest
Hi Wattsup,

Not really, I found out while building I would only need one coil for each piston. This is because of the 8 piston at every 45 deg, a 180 deg would produce the generator side while the 0 deg push the pistons downward. The flywheel will do the rest.

Tom
   
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 O0
« Last Edit: 2014-11-28, 02:56:55 by Tommey Reed »
   
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Tommey

yes

 O0

sorry I removed the "SpanksGiving"for pulse motor build off comment.
[must have removed it just before your post]

Hope you had a good Thanksgiving.
thx
Chet
« Last Edit: 2014-11-28, 03:47:46 by Chet K »
   
Group: Guest
Hi All,


 Sorry, but I got some nasty comments and thought it would be best to just remove my account.

I have better things to do then put up with jerks!

I really didn't expect them, so I will only put up my finished PMBO before Dec. 14th...

Tom
   

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Buy me a beer
Hi All,


 Sorry, but I got some nasty comments and thought it would be best to just remove my account.

I have better things to do then put up with jerks!

I really didn't expect them, so I will only put up my finished PMBO before Dec. 14th...

Tom

Tom

I only put videos on youtube which people with "links" can see, also a good idea to remove the posting  comment option ;) I presume the comments were on youtube?

your work is very good, so ignore the jerks

regards

Mike 8)


---------------------------
"All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed, second it is violently opposed, and third, it is accepted as self-evident."
Arthur Schopenhauer, Philosopher, 1788-1860

As a general rule, the most successful person in life is the person that has the best information.
   
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Hi All,

 Ok started another YouTube account..

This is my pulse motor update.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5GmeBtK6vM

Tom
   
Group: Guest
This is my pulse motor update.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5GmeBtK6vM

When you get this all put together, don't be so humble.  If it happens to charge the battery back up while it runs, say so.  Don't leave us guessing.
   
Group: Guest
Hi All,

This is the electronics of the pulse motor.

first step to control the firing of the pulse motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVPeG40f2Uw

Tom 8)
   
Group: Guest
This is the electronics of the pulse motor.

first step to control the firing of the pulse motor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVPeG40f2Uw

hehe   That's what I'm talking about!


What controller chips are you using Tom?
   
Group: Guest
Hi Matt,

I'm using Atmega 328--- 32k 16mhz Avr program

Tom :D
   
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Posts: 336
Tommey,

How do you know when to zero your degrees counter? Do you have a extra index
hole in your encoder rotor to tell you that?

Alex.
   
Group: Guest
Hi Groundloop,

No, I use a simple calculation that counts 5deg and resets it when it reach over 355 deg to 0-355. I also use a simple code to give me a one shot pulse each time the photo transistor is read. In other words if the photo transistor is still on, it will not allow constant pulse to my degree counter.

Tom O0

   
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Posts: 336
Tommey,

Thank you for taking time to answer me. I ask because how do you know when to fire
your PWM at the correct time if the motor can be at any position when you switch on
the power to your micro controller? Do you always turn the motor by hand to the
first hole on the coder rotor before you switch on the power?

GL.
   
Group: Guest
Hi Groundloop,



 I did add another single photo transistor to reset the degree reading, this now will tell each location of pistons and will correct the position when i spin the engine to start.




Tom..

   
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Posts: 336
Hi Groundloop,



 I did add another single photo transistor to reset the degree reading, this now will tell each location of pistons and will correct the position when i spin the engine to start.




Tom..



Tommey,

Great solution to a problem. Now you can (in software) hold off the firings of the coils until the
software has detected your index pulse and has reset the degree counter. Looking forward to your
video updates. You are doing some great work on your pulse motor build.

GL.
   
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