PopularFX
Home Help Search Login Register
Welcome,Guest. Please login or register.
2026-08-29, 06:38:32
News: The text input boxes (where you write your messages) are resizeable.  Just drag the bottom border of the text box to size it appropriately to your device.  The changes are persistent across your devices.

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5 6
Author Topic: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs  (Read 26248 times)
Topic Options img
img  muDped
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #25 on: 2019-07-25, 08:41:48 »

Group: Tinkerer
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 3324
Quote from: AllCanadian
P.S. I have the STL files however it would not let me upload them here.

Append the files temporarily with .pdf or .txt or some other accepted
file format before uploading.

The end user can then simply delete the temporary appendage to recover
the original .stl files for use.


---------------------------
For there is nothing hidden that will not be disclosed, and nothing concealed that will not be known or brought out into the open.
   
img  TinMan
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #26 on: 2019-07-25, 10:23:02 »

Group: Elite Experimentalist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 5677


Buy me some coffee
Quote from: Magluvin on 2019-07-25, 06:42:40
Just got my 3d printer yesterday. Creality Ender 3 pro

Took me 2 hours to put it together following the mostly graphical instructions that came with it, plus an hour of tweeking.


The bed rail rollers were preassembled to the base frame that was together. Had to fiddle with those roller adjustments as the table was very loose.  Some reviewers said they had beds that were up to 1mm lower in the center of the bed than the outer edges and went with glass beds instead. But mine seems quite flat. Has the magnetic flexible bed pad for easy part removal. Not a bad build. Everything seems to be good.  Something to note.  When testing the motors motion manually by hand, dont move them fast, and better yet, just dont plug them in yet. They generate voltage and can hurt the electronics. Read that some time ago. Manually you can move the assy faster than it would normally turn the motor in operation, thus could send way more volts back into the electronics than they were intended to handle.

Was $259 free shipping amazon. 2 day delivery.

Not going to fire it up till tomorrow. 130am. If I do turn it on I might as well stay up all night. :D   Cant do it. worky.

Mags

Way to go Mag's.
You will love having one of these,and now you can build anything  O0 O0 O0


Brad


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
img  TinMan
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #27 on: 2019-07-25, 10:33:26 »

Group: Elite Experimentalist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 5677


Buy me some coffee
Quote from: Allcanadian on 2019-07-25, 07:34:53
Magluvin
3D printers are pretty cool and I use FreeCAd and Repetier-Host for render-printing. I use mine to print PLA coil formers in some pretty complex geometries then pack the core center with a powdered metal/epoxy. I can print coil formers which are darn near impossible to produce any other way. 

Note the segmented form of the former below and I print off each half then glue them together then each whole form can be stacked in series if needed. Which begs the question why this exact form for a coil former. The segmented former dates back to the early 19th century and was used for HV Ruhmkorff Induction Coils. If you google "Induction coil" the picture most likely to be depicted is a Ruhmkorff Coil including the interrupter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_coil

This was the precursor to many other variations including what many call a "Tesla Coil". As well many other inventors started noting anomalies with this setup which then spawned many of the most well known FE devices. Many would do well to go back and research the older technologies which were the basis for many of the devices we see today. These devices did not need electronics to produce the desired effects and in fact electronics become problematic when experimenting.

P.S. I have the STL files however it would not let me upload them here.

Good luck and good printing

Perhaps upload the STL file's to Thingiverse,and then post the link to your file's here.
Maybe we should all do that,then we could all share our design's,which would make exact replications very easy  O0.

If you have a 3D printer,and not a member of Thingiverse,then i would recommend joining up,as they so much here you can use. I will often grab bit's from there,then upload that file to Tinkercad,then make the modifications i need to make.


Brad


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
img  gyula
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #28 on: 2019-07-25, 13:22:42 »
Group: Tech Wizard
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1385
Another possibility is simply rename the suffix of the file from stl to say txt  or just pkzip the stl file and attach it as a zip file.
Then anybody can rename it or unzip it after downloading the attachment from here.

Gyula
   
img  JimBoot
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #29 on: 2019-07-29, 06:50:52 »

Group: Tinkerer
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1956
Quote from: TinMan on 2019-07-25, 10:33:26
Perhaps upload the STL file's to Thingiverse,and then post the link to your file's here.
Maybe we should all do that,then we could all share our design's,which would make exact replications very easy  O0.

If you have a 3D printer,and not a member of Thingiverse,then i would recommend joining up,as they so much here you can use. I will often grab bit's from there,then upload that file to Tinkercad,then make the modifications i need to make.


Brad

Agreed Brad. Are your gears up there for the non-bemf motor? :) Or tinkercad. That may work Gyula,
   
img  Thaelin
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #30 on: 2019-07-29, 07:17:12 »
Full Member
***

Posts: 138
   Just received my rolls of petg, is there any thing special that I need to do to use?  Far as I know the machine is already set to use it. What I am meaning is other than selecting the type of filament in the setup. Once I got the bed leveled right, all the prints have come out great.
   I now have a CR10S and love it.

thay
   
img  TinMan
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #31 on: 2019-07-29, 08:17:03 »

Group: Elite Experimentalist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 5677


Buy me some coffee
Quote from: JimBoot on 2019-07-29, 06:50:52
Agreed Brad. Are your gears up there for the non-bemf motor? :) Or tinkercad. That may work Gyula,

I'll try zipping an STL file tonight,and post it hete,and see how we go.

I actually got the gear from thingiverse,then rescalled it on tinkercad,and added the drum.


Brad


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
img  TinMan
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #32 on: 2019-07-29, 13:22:39 »

Group: Elite Experimentalist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 5677


Buy me some coffee
Quote from: Thaelin on 2019-07-29, 07:17:12
   Just received my rolls of petg, is there any thing special that I need to do to use?  Far as I know the machine is already set to use it. What I am meaning is other than selecting the type of filament in the setup. Once I got the bed leveled right, all the prints have come out great.
   I now have a CR10S and love it.

thay

First,your hot end will have to be at about 230*C.
 PETG love's to string,so make your retraction between 1-1.5mm. Some testing will need to be done to work out the best retraction amount.

Also increase your travel speed as high as you can get it,as this will also help reduce stringing,as the hot melted filament in the hotend will not have as much time to ooze out during travel from one point in the print to the next. Remember,travel speed is not print speed.


Brad


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
img  TinMan
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #33 on: 2019-07-29, 13:24:20 »

Group: Elite Experimentalist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 5677


Buy me some coffee
OK,i have packed the STL file for my gear hub in the zip below.
Lets see if that works.


Brad

added
Ok,seems to download ok for me.
Could some one else try it,and let us all know.
Cheers.


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
img  CITFTA
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #34 on: 2019-07-29, 13:29:30 »

Group: Experimentalist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 813
Believing in something false doesn't make it true.
Seemed to work ok for me Brad.  Thanks.   O0

« Last Edit: 2019-07-29, 15:23:58 by CITFTA »


---------------------------
Just because it is on YouTube does not make it real.
   
img  TinMan
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #35 on: 2019-07-29, 14:13:20 »

Group: Elite Experimentalist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 5677


Buy me some coffee
Quote from: CITFTA on 2019-07-29, 13:29:30
Seemed to work ok for my Brad.  Thanks.   O0

Ah,this is good.

So, easy enough to do.
Not sure how it works on OS above XP,but i just right click on the STL file,and send to compressed zip folder  O0

Now we can share our folders quite easily  O0


Brad


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
img  Paul-R
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #36 on: 2019-07-29, 18:30:53 »
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1673
Has anyone tried entering the Victor Shauberger Repulsine into the software? (Heaven knows how). 3D printing might  be a way to experiment with this device.
   
img  JimBoot
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #37 on: 2019-07-29, 23:28:59 »

Group: Tinkerer
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1956
Quote from: Paul-R on 2019-07-29, 18:30:53
Has anyone tried entering the Victor Shauberger Repulsine into the software? (Heaven knows how). 3D printing might  be a way to experiment with this device.

There are a few models out there for his funnels but I have not seen any for the repulsine.

Thanks for the stl Brad,
Worked fine
   
img  Magluvin
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #38 on: 2019-07-30, 03:15:37 »

Group: Mad Scientist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1247
Quote from: Allcanadian on 2019-07-25, 07:34:53
Magluvin
3D printers are pretty cool and I use FreeCAd and Repetier-Host for render-printing. I use mine to print PLA coil formers in some pretty complex geometries then pack the core center with a powdered metal/epoxy. I can print coil formers which are darn near impossible to produce any other way. 

Note the segmented form of the former below and I print off each half then glue them together then each whole form can be stacked in series if needed. Which begs the question why this exact form for a coil former. The segmented former dates back to the early 19th century and was used for HV Ruhmkorff Induction Coils. If you google "Induction coil" the picture most likely to be depicted is a Ruhmkorff Coil including the interrupter.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_coil

This was the precursor to many other variations including what many call a "Tesla Coil". As well many other inventors started noting anomalies with this setup which then spawned many of the most well known FE devices. Many would do well to go back and research the older technologies which were the basis for many of the devices we see today. These devices did not need electronics to produce the desired effects and in fact electronics become problematic when experimenting.

P.S. I have the STL files however it would not let me upload them here.

Good luck and good printing

Cool stuff.  Now that I see how these things print in person, its a no brainer, especially for coil bobbins and such like you show.

Im super excited. Wanted one of these for some time, but was hesitant on which one to get. Im very happy with it.

Mags
   
img  Magluvin
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #39 on: 2019-07-30, 03:39:28 »

Group: Mad Scientist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1247
Ok. The printer works very well. My first print was the dog leaving the settings to default for the file. The base cam loose as the print got toward the top and the head was moving the print around, so I stopped it there.  Used up half of the first layer of pla for that. I got Sunlu transparent for my first roll. The ender came with white but Im not sure it would have printed the full dog.

So after some settings tweaks, seems all good.  In the first pic is the dog(first print) Then I did the ring in the middle that i made in cinema 4d, just to check tolerances of what the model said it was compared to the print. Seemingly perfect 25mm ID.

So after that I dug right in and made a mini rotor for initial testing of the MMM v2. The bearing is from a hard drive read arm. Was just over 11mm and just took some light sanding with 400 grit around a sharpy to fit beautifully. The rotor was created just from 2 wheels in C4D, the lower one with 360 sections for a nice round edge and the top wheel was made with 7 sections and I just meshed them together and ran it in Cura for slicing.  This like I said it is just a test base and then Ill go forward from there. Once I get the rest printed and together Ill start a thread on it. 

Took about 25min to print the rotor. 3 hrs to print the dog with its brains showing.

I had seen a prog called Design spark mechanical.  But took forever to install and it seems like its gota be connected to the net to use it. Does that mean they can always see what your making? Not sure I like that. But it did have impressive build features that even solidworks doesnt have. So once I got my settings in C4D right, I think Ill use that for now as I know it pretty well.

Mags
   
img  TinMan
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #40 on: 2019-07-30, 06:16:24 »

Group: Elite Experimentalist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 5677


Buy me some coffee
Quote from: Magluvin on 2019-07-30, 03:39:28
Ok. The printer works very well. My first print was the dog leaving the settings to default for the file. The base cam loose as the print got toward the top and the head was moving the print around, so I stopped it there.  Used up half of the first layer of pla for that. I got Sunlu transparent for my first roll. The ender came with white but Im not sure it would have printed the full dog.

So after some settings tweaks, seems all good.  In the first pic is the dog(first print) Then I did the ring in the middle that i made in cinema 4d, just to check tolerances of what the model said it was compared to the print. Seemingly perfect 25mm ID.

So after that I dug right in and made a mini rotor for initial testing of the MMM v2. The bearing is from a hard drive read arm. Was just over 11mm and just took some light sanding with 400 grit around a sharpy to fit beautifully. The rotor was created just from 2 wheels in C4D, the lower one with 360 sections for a nice round edge and the top wheel was made with 7 sections and I just meshed them together and ran it in Cura for slicing.  This like I said it is just a test base and then Ill go forward from there. Once I get the rest printed and together Ill start a thread on it. 

Took about 25min to print the rotor. 3 hrs to print the dog with its brains showing.

I had seen a prog called Design spark mechanical.  But took forever to install and it seems like its gota be connected to the net to use it. Does that mean they can always see what your making? Not sure I like that. But it did have impressive build features that even solidworks doesnt have. So once I got my settings in C4D right, I think Ill use that for now as I know it pretty well.

Mags

Good job Mags  O0
Welcome to the printing world.

With the new high perm magnetic filaments coming out,there won't be much we can't  print.

Brad.


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
img  JimBoot
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #41 on: 2019-07-30, 06:50:31 »

Group: Tinkerer
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1956
Nice Mags,
Some things that have helped me. I only print on glass. Just got a mirror tile adjusted it for size them put a spacer on the z carriage stop switch. Always ask yourself does the object require infill, some models can be self supporting.
Things I'm exploring
Photogrammetry, Drone printing (TPU) &  metal filaments. They can get expensive. I'd like to get some of the virtual foundary filaments. I think they're black good is basically carbon in a suspension. Now I've convinced my wife to let me use her kiln, the project ideas start to mount :) 
   
img  Thaelin
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #42 on: 2019-07-30, 12:43:18 »
Full Member
***

Posts: 138
Thanks TinMan, I will get into the setups and see what I can find. PLA is ok for some things but not for others. Just too brittle and it cracks easy with tension. Have to make some magnet blocks that will have a combined push of around 55 lbs so not sure it will hold.

thay
   
img  TinMan
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #43 on: 2019-07-30, 12:59:25 »

Group: Elite Experimentalist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 5677


Buy me some coffee
Quote from: Thaelin on 2019-07-30, 12:43:18
Thanks TinMan, I will get into the setups and see what I can find. PLA is ok for some things but not for others. Just too brittle and it cracks easy with tension. Have to make some magnet blocks that will have a combined push of around 55 lbs so not sure it will hold.

thay

Want strength-->poly carbonate is the way to go  O0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0GdrC21qWw

Brad


---------------------------
Never let your schooling get in the way of your education.
   
img  Magluvin
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #44 on: 2019-07-30, 18:40:37 »

Group: Mad Scientist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1247
Quote from: TinMan on 2019-07-30, 06:16:24
Good job Mags  O0
Welcome to the printing world.

With the new high perm magnetic filaments coming out,there won't be much we can't  print.

Brad.

Yeah, Im quickly seeing this being a must have tool. The spool of Sunlu transparent pla seems to be very strong. I tossed the dog on the concrete floor and nada, Just a bit of dirt where it impacted. Maybe it is stronger as it doesnt have all the pigment. Was reading some reviews on iron pla and they say it is too brittle and the filament at times breaks off the roll while in the middle of a print. So Im thinking the more additives, the weaker. Unless its maybe carbon fiber.

Just making small stuff to gain experience with the machine before I waste material on large mistakes. Had a couple of bad starts on the mini rotor where the first circular strings were pulling off the bed as it went around. I stepped up the nozzle to 210deg from 200 and it seems just about right. Need to familiarize myself with what happens at diff temps. Can go to 220 on this filament. Going to get a nozzle set with some .2mm, .25mm and 3mm for some higher accuracy for certain things.

Neat stuff.  Read some things on how some printers are fairly noisy. But this thing I could fall asleep to.  The Easythreed nano is cheap and supposedly super quiet. And the reviews show it prints quite well.   But, a regular creality ender 3 can be had for just about the same cost.

Mags
   
img  Magluvin
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #45 on: 2019-07-30, 18:51:50 »

Group: Mad Scientist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1247
Quote from: JimBoot on 2019-07-30, 06:50:31
Nice Mags,
Some things that have helped me. I only print on glass. Just got a mirror tile adjusted it for size them put a spacer on the z carriage stop switch. Always ask yourself does the object require infill, some models can be self supporting.
Things I'm exploring
Photogrammetry, Drone printing (TPU) &  metal filaments. They can get expensive. I'd like to get some of the virtual foundary filaments. I think they're black good is basically carbon in a suspension. Now I've convinced my wife to let me use her kiln, the project ideas start to mount :)

This removable magnetic bed sheet seems to work well. just peal it off and bend it to remove the part. Was anticipating having to get the glass bed for this as some say their beds were not level, lower in the middle, but this one seems to be fine.  If things go well with this one, I want to get a couple more. have some laser projects to make cases for.
The infill for the rotor was hexagon and I wanted that. The dog was just what it was on the sd card. But Ill be doing some thing that I wont want infill. The dog did beautiful without supports. I was worried about the ears, but it did ledges and spreading them out perfectly. Most pics of the 'creality test dog' had supports.

Ive seen a printed z level home switch adjuster. I can see where fine tuning that could perfect things when it comes to .1mm accuracy.

Mags
   
img  Cadman
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #46 on: 2019-07-31, 14:09:47 »
Full Member
***

Posts: 175

I’ve been using an Ender3 for several months so I thought I would offer some of my experiences with it.

First off, if you have the plastic extruder feeder, get rid of it now and replace it with the aluminum upgrade. Mine cracked shortly after the first roll of filament. It took me weeks to find the problem because  they crack under the roller. You start having inconsistent bad prints and jammed nozzles and it gets progressively worse the more you print.

The bed sheet is fine for a while but every print leaves a minute layer of plastic on it. After several batches of prints it gets more and more difficult to get the first layer to adhere properly.  I just ordered a borosilicate glass bed and a PEI sheet to go on it.

If you are using Cura 3.1 that comes with the printer you’ll want to upgrade to 4.1. If you need supports and have holes on a vertical face 3.1 will add external towers for the holes even if you don’t need them. Those just cost me 3 failed prints with petg on a thin vertical part. With 4.1 they have a tool to block supports wherever you don’t want them.

These are the upgrades if you are interested:

Creality 3D All Metal MK-8 Extruder Feeder Drive Aluminum 1.75mm
https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Extruder-Aluminum/dp/B07J44QW8B/

[Gulfcoast Robotics] 3D Printer Borosilicate Glass for The Creality Ender-3-4mm Thick.
https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Borosilicate-Creality-Ender-3-4mm/dp/B07DFTKCV9

[Gulfcoast Robotics] PEI Sheet 9" x 9" (235mm x 235mm) 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M Adhesive for Creality Ender 3
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KCVDPXH

Cadman


---------------------------
'Tis better to try and fail than never try at all
   
img  Magluvin
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #47 on: 2019-08-01, 03:53:29 »

Group: Mad Scientist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1247
Was just testing tolerances in measurements.   Need to make stator magnet tubes for these 15mm x 3mm x 2mm neo mags that can be had at Home Depot. I have a nice sized stash of many neo mags they have on the shelf.

This tube is 14.9mm long and 5.2mm dia with 100% infill.  The inner space for the magnet width and height were 2.047mm x 3.03mm in the 3d environment. The magnet was tight but went in beautifully. Again, Im very impressed. :D  I expected the tube to crack for how snug it was going in, but it didnt.

Mags
   
img  Magluvin
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #48 on: 2019-08-01, 05:21:51 »

Group: Mad Scientist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1247
Updated stator tube 10mm dia.  Next will be a control arm added. Once I get the base made and 6 stationary stators with 1 active stator, then I will start the MMM thread and run the test.

Mags
   
img  Magluvin
Re: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs « Reply #49 on: 2019-08-01, 06:29:32 »

Group: Mad Scientist
Hero Member
*****

Posts: 1247
This is the first print using supports. The support snapped of easy n clean.

All of this small printing has my mind going.  On the original MMM I had to make all the parts perfect by hand. It is just a relief that I dont have to anymore.

Mags
   
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5 6
« previous next »


 

Home Help Search Login Register
Theme © PopularFX | Based on PFX Ideas! | Scripts from iScript4u 2026-08-29, 06:38:32