I am placing this post here since it also has my post regarding cascading generator coils and I will refer guys here from OU.
About the sine wave, I think once @peterae has had an opportunity to try the three tests I mentioned, this should provide you with more clues. Actually I am thinking that one of them will fall smack onto this waveform.
@All
My previous post on this thread will provide some means to try and fight the Lenz while using it to move the wheel .
http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=827.msg15129#msg15129Here are some other observations I have on this wheel for guys looking to push it "further".
Point #1:
If you can sprint fast at 30 mph without transporting any added weight, compared to if with a good sized weight you can only run at 15 mph, then just learn how to run extremely well at 15 mph, because sprinting produces no work.
What I mean is simple.
Once you know the best or strongest or more motive generating drive coil orientations (I cover some of that below), ultimately, there is no point to finally adjust your hall sensors for the wheel to turn at maximum rpm with no load. Attaining maximum rpm means attaining minimum torque.
Let's say you adjust your sensor positions for maximum rpm at no load like everyone is doing to set their devices. When load is applied, the rpm / drag ratio will stabilize and eventually, because of the sensor fixed positions that cannot compensate for the lag in time between sensor activation to drive coil and rotor swing, there results a major shift in the momentum that cannot be overcome. So, instead, you should try to position your sensors for a much lower rpm at no load. When you load the output, the reduction or effect of the load will again want to reduce the rpm "to where it already is", but now the sensors are well positioned to work at that lower rpm. Now when you apply a load, the rpm should not change that much because the no load rpm it is already at the rpm it should be under load to begin with. Sounds complicated, maybe, but in a nutshell, if you load the output, the wheel will want to stop and while it wants to stop you adjust your sensors to run steady at that slower rpm.
But don't expect to have the exact same effect as Romeros higher rpm at no load and no rpm change under load since in Videos 1 and 2 his dc output rail was already connected to a battery, the rotor never saw coil drag since when the load was applied, the generator coils where not even solicited. He says it was connected through a special diode to feed the battery but it was not. The wires are going right from the rail to the battery.
Point #2
OK, I will try to explain to you one thing that no one really understands or has not clearly shown and which is a key aspect of any drive coil pair to achieve maximum motive strength and not speed and that is, what is the real effect on the rotor of two drive coils in series that receive a pulse. This is very easy for anyone with a wheel to check. I know in advance what is happening but someone needs to test this to show guys the cold hard facts.
To test this, just use one drive coil (not a pair) with everything else disconnected. Position your sensor to achieve and measure maximum rpm on the rotor wit that one drive coil. Now switch the wires on that one coil and see if rpm changes and if you reposition the sensors to any higher rpm level. Now add a second drive coil in series with the one mounted drive coil. The second drive coil must not be mounted on the plate to actually act the second motive force, but just to stay inline with the mounted drive coil. Now do the test again to see how fast the rpm is then switch over the wires and test again. This will give you....
1) RPM with one drive coil. Note the wiring method (explained more below).
2) RPM with one drive coil with wires switched. Note the wiring method.
3) RPM with one drive coil and one coil in series but not mounted. Note the wiring method.
4) RPM with one drive coil and one coil in series but not mounted with wires switched. Note the wiring method.
These four results will explain most of what is going on and what is lacking with driving a coil pair in series. It will not give the complete portrayal of differences since to do so, one would have to repeat the above with the one mounted drive coil turned so the other side is now facing the rotor magnets but I realize that most builders have "fixed" their coils permanently, so this will be impossible to check. Too bad though.
After these tests, I anticipate that either #3 or #4 will be much superior to #1 or #2, but also that the other of #3 or #4 will be so lamentable that you will be wondering what you did wrong. You did nothing wrong. As what I anticipate is it will be when the pulsed coil is the one that is not mounted. This will confirm that the coil that is second in the series when mounted will be performing at low level, whereas the coil that is first that receives the pulse is working 75% of the field production. Basically, if you are using two coils in series, you better know what these coils really do. The good thing is because there is a second drive coil, the first one is stronger. Just scope the drive coils as A and B with the same settings and this will tell you all.
You can then test with both drive coils mounted, but this time add an ac transformer primary in series with the drive coil pair. Test the rpm, then switch the wires and test again. Then put the transformer on the other drive coil, test, then switch around the wires and test again. The AC transformer primary should have the same or close enough inductance as the two drive coils in series. Actually any single coil or coil in a transformer of the same value will do. Try it and see the difference in motive force. This should increase the impulse energy to the mounted drive coils. I won't go into why because this would take to long here.
The configs giving the highest rpm will be the one that is providing the best motive impulse to the coils.
This has nothing to do with how to finally run the device via the sensors, just how the coils should be best oriented to impart their full force. The ultimate sensor placement should be taken from point #1 above.
Once you have proven to your self that the second drive coil is not doing that much to assist in the motive force of the rotor, this will start to open up new ways of thinking about how to best drive the drive coils. Romero did not invent all the ways so it is up to you guys to better him on this.
Point #3
Another aspect of the wheel is how the coils are driven. Right now guys are using n-channel or npn components to drive off the negative side of the drive coil pairs. This may not be the best way of doing this since the positive potential will always be in the coils. It may require further testing if you use a p-channel or pnp component and work the pulse off the positive side.
wattsup
VERY VERY VERY IMPORTANT: For those looking to wind new drive coils or generator coils, please put in a center tap. Again I won't get into the why of this because it would take to long. Suffice to say there are many things you can do with a center tap on a single coil.
Future considerations: Ultimately in my opinion, guys with wheels will eventually start to think of changing the positions of the two drive coil pairs . There will be a major difference in motive force if you compare two isolated drive coil pairs that are separated by several generator coils, as it is now, or if you use two drive coil pairs that are positioned one next to the other. The distance between the magnets and the travel they must accomplish to hit one of the sensors means the motive initiating can only happen in a very small window of opportunity when the drive coil pairs are positioned alone. But if two drive coil pairs are positioned one next to the other at least 3 magnets will always be in the prime activation zones for better motive force across any rpm momentum.
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Topic: Romerouk's Muller Replication (Read 492396 times)
