This thread is for Akula's Lantern v3 O0
I think we have more information on this device than any other Akula device.
Akula0083 - Lantern No 3 - Disassembly - Full Length Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9Tw66wrW0A (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9Tw66wrW0A)
Akula0083 - Lantern No 3 - Demonstration (first version with power supply)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmP_Y0Le6Wg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmP_Y0Le6Wg)
Wesley Translate's Akula video #15: Akula's TPU part 4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BNgo09N0yM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BNgo09N0yM)
Both chips are TL494.
I believe that the core is UR48/39/17-3C30 as it matches shape and size. There is only one other Type 1 and too small.
Core type: Ferrite UR Core - Type 1 (UR48/39/17-3C30)
Core grade: 3C30
Gap: Yes (paper)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FERRITE-CORE-UR-3C30-UR48-39-17-3C30-2103425-/390627709396?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item5af339d1d4 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/FERRITE-CORE-UR-3C30-UR48-39-17-3C30-2103425-/390627709396?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item5af339d1d4)
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1595854.pdf (http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1595854.pdf)
Frequency:?
QuoteWe also know the approximate frequency of: 6.910KHz Approx.
Quote@ all I'm very sorry for my mistake. ferrite cores resonance is in Mhz range, not in Ghz. It's to be right 1 - 3,5 Mhz
The schematic GIF is corrupt. [FIXED] I got it from over on OU.com The only way I can view it correctly is via Firefox. Can anyone open and save as a jpg?
Edit: TutorialFE was able to make a clean jpg of the schematic! O0 I have updated OP.
4Tesla ,
Here is a even cleaner version of the circuit.
GL.
Quote from: Groundloop on 2014.04.27, 23:21:06
4Tesla ,
Here is a even cleaner version of the circuit.
GL.
Thank you! O0 I'll add to OP.
4Tesla ,
Attached is my best "GUESS" to what components to use
in this circuit. This version removed the unknowns in the
first posted circuit.
GL.
Quote from: Groundloop on 2014.04.27, 23:54:53
4Tesla ,
Attached is my best "GUESS" to what components to use
in this circuit. This version removed the unknowns in the
first posted circuit.
GL.
Thanks! That is a good starting point!
EDIT; This is from a combination of two posts I made earlier today @ O.U.com....
Quote from: tysb3 on 2014.04.27, 17:51:29
my English is bad but I'll try to explain that you have no chance to tune Akula's device if you don't know how it works. I hope Wesley will translate latest Akula's conversation on skype. but in short, Akula's devices is working on core resonance. It's different cores - different resonances. for example one Akula's core have 3,5 Ghz resonance. transistors switching time need to be shorter than this frequency. the high and low frequency generators need to be harmonics oscillators on cores resonance frequency.
from start you need to find core resonance that you have.
the transistors switches need to be switch on-off in one time
and there is more what to be explained but I hope somebody do better than me
Hello All:
I believe this to be relevant concerning ferroresonance and dimensional resonance:
and in relation to AC power systems:
"Ferro-resonance can generate overvoltages of upto 12 times line to ground source voltage upon opening a single phase device or poorly synchronised 3 phase device. Voilent failure can occur exposing personnel to the high voltage failure and accompanying conditions. Ferro-resonance conditions can result in damage to lightning arresters, switching devices, buried cable, transformers and associated equipment.
Ferro-resonance can be initiated when all of the following elements are present and the switching means at the dip point or takes off when a single phase device or an unsynchronised 3 phase device that does not operate all phases within 1/2 cycle.
1.System grounded at the source, but with no ground at the transformer bank
2. Shielded cable length or overhead conductor length sufficient to create the capacitance necessary
3. Transformer size that permits saturation of the iron core at the operating voltage
4. Transformer unloaded or lightly loaded.
Prevention or control of ferro-resonance can be by:
1. Using wye-wye transformer withboth neutrals grounded and tied to systems neutral
2. Using only phase-to-neutral (not phase-to-phase) transformers connections for single pahse transformers.
3. Limiting length of underground cable
4. For poorly synchronised switching devices, extra resistive load of 2% of the transformer capacity on underground cable. "
Ref:www.tpub.com/doeelecsafety/electri... safety
Food for thought, and it does correlate with the
Russian stories of the cores self-destructing after a short runtime:take care, peace
lost_bro
Some more useful quotes from over on OU.com
Quote from: tysb3
@ TinselKoala
first you need to find core resonance of yours transformer. It could be between 1-3,5 Ghz.
second, you need to adjust (without load and LF switch ) HF generator to resonate the core in his resonance for minimum current draw (I don't remember maybe it could be about 1mA ) from power suply. then try to play with 1 diod on load.
all transistors and diodes need to be possibly highest frequency.
Quote from: lost_bro
Good Day tysb3:
What is the recommended method to use in order to *find* the core resonance?
take care, peace
lost_bro
Quote from: tysb3
@lost_bro
you need to put some winds (not to much) on the core with connection from the middle and connect "bottom" and middle wires to signal generator and "bottom" and "top" wires to oscilloscope. then it's need to put meander signal and seek smal "hills" on the top meander. the frequency of these "hills" will be core resonance. I think it's not only method but this is what I understand from Akula's conference.
@All
I've checked the consumption of the LEDs in mA and saw that:
1 LED consumes 0.02mA
2 LEDs consumes 0.03mA
8 LEDs should consume 0.09 mA
A small button battery can deliver betwen 0.080mA to 0.140 mA
so in theory two button batteries in the series would be able to turn on 8 LEds
GL said:
QuoteAttached is my best "GUESS" to what components to use
in this circuit. This version removed the unknowns in the
first posted circuit.
Nice job on the schematic. One question: where is the two turn tubular ferrite inductor seen in some of the Akula ver 3 videos? The one in series with one of the transformer leads. Does it apply to this schematic or a different two chip (494) version, the one with the MW AS-25-5 power supply?
Regards, ION
Quote from: ION on 2014.04.28, 13:04:41
GL said:
Nice job on the schematic. One question: where is the two turn tubular ferrite inductor seen in some of the Akula ver 3 videos?
Regards, ION
ION,
Did not see any two turn tubular ferrite inductor in the posted circuit. This circuit uses a ferrite core from an old TV
or data monitor. Looks like that anyway.
GL.
Quote from: Groundloop on 2014.04.28, 13:08:54
ION,
Did not see any two turn tubular ferrite inductor in the posted circuit. This circuit uses a ferrite core from an old TV
or data monitor. Looks like that anyway.
GL.
It is in the second video at the top of this page, seen at the very beginning, large item on the board, lies next to the row of LED's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmP_Y0Le6Wg
There has been posted yet another version of the circuit over at OU dot com.
Attached is the hand drawing and my cleaned up version. I hope I got it right.
GL.
Yes, and neither of those show the aforementiond two turn inductor on the board, yet is clearly in series with one of the transformer wires.
Quote from: ION on 2014.04.28, 13:22:15
Yes, and neither of those show the aforementiond two turn inductor on the board, yet is clearly in series with one of the transformer wires.
ION,
Can you make a screen copy of the transformer in the video and then show on the image where you see a coil loop?
OK, I it see now. That was a earlier circuit posted. In the picture under there is no 2 turn coil.
(http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2420.0;attach=13151)
GL.
Good day All:
This just in this morning from O.U.com:
Quote from: tysb3 on 2014.04.28, 10:54:26
@ all
I'm very sorry for my mistake. ferrite cores resonance is in Mhz range, not in Ghz. It's to be right 1 - 3,5 Mhz
So now it make more sense..... 1-3.5Mhz is reasonable.
take care, peace
lost_bro
Quote from: TutorialFE on 2014.04.28, 12:26:04
@All
I've checked the consumption of the LEDs in mA and saw that:
1 LED consumes 0.02mA
2 LEDs consumes 0.03mA
8 LEDs should consume 0.09 mA
A small button battery can deliver betwen 0.080mA to 0.140 mA
so in theory two button batteries in the series would be able to turn on 8 LEds
I don't think they are trick pots.
@all
All of Akula's previous devices required a huge heat sink. Looks like he solved the over current/heating problem in this one.
I believe I found the core he used. I posted it in the OP.
In this divice, need wery fats mosfet closing. Wery fast opening is not wery important, wery fast closing is important. Some mosfets can not wery fast close, so with they divice can not work as selfrunning.
Here how maybe can be find easy freroresonance. Take core and wound primary one turn and wound secondary one turn. On secondary put 10-100 omh resistor and oscilioscope. To primary put square and search resonance from 200 kiloherc to 4 megaherc about. Were you get on secondary mostly hight amplitude here and is feroresonance. You can chek to be shore that here feroresonance making primary and secondary not one turn but two or 3 turns, if frenquency be is same, then means you find fero resonance. TL can not generate more than 800 kiloherc, so if you find ferroresonance on let say 1200 kiloherc, then you can make duty cycle of TL494 let say 20 precents and then smash impulses to every second resonance vibration with 600 kiloherc. I can make somethere mistakes so not use my words like absolutlly true.
Quote from: MenofFather on 2014.04.28, 17:29:34
In this divice, need wery fats mosfet closing. Wery fast opening is not wery important, wery fast closing is important. Some mosfets can not wery fast close, so with they divice can not work as selfrunning.
Here how maybe can be find easy freroresonance. Take core and wound primary one turn and wound secondary one turn. On secondary put 10-100 omh resistor and oscilioscope. To primary put square and search resonance from 200 kiloherc to 4 megaherc about. Were you get on secondary mostly hight amplitude here and is feroresonance. You can chek to be shore that here feroresonance making primary and secondary not one turn but two or 3 turns, if frenquency be is same, then means you find fero resonance. TL can not generate more than 800 kiloherc, so if you find ferroresonance on let say 1200 kiloherc, then you can make duty cycle of TL494 let say 20 precents and then smash impulses to every second resonance vibration with 600 kiloherc. I can make somethere mistakes so not use my words like absolutlly true.
Good day All:
Please see below attachment;
The placement of the 2N3703 PNP transistors are configured to act as an Active Miller Clamp.
This will accelerate the discharging of the Gate > Source Capacitance giving a *faster* falling edge on gate signal to MOSFET yielding *faster* turn off time for switching.
need wery fats mosfet closingThis correlates with the above quote from MenofFather......
take care, peace
lost_bro
For only windings who works on feroresonance need wery fast closing, for other winding is not wery important wery fast closing.
Quote from: MenofFather on 2014.04.29, 04:20:38
For only windings who works on feroresonance need wery fast closing, for other winding is not wery important wery fast closing.
When you say "close", do you mean like a switch or like a gate?
For example, if you intend to "close" a pipe, you would stop the flow correct?
I ask because T-1000 mentioned English and Russian terminology for this same event is opposite.
@All
With two small button cell battery LEDs light up well ... ;D
I tried to do a search of the origin of the schemes ( Lantern 3) to get more information but I have not found on other forums ....
I want to know if all the schemes posted with signs of all the electronic parts are all right because I've difficult to find some components...
If you can even nominate each schemes (1,2,3) so we will have a precise indication of the type of scheme that everyone are following ...
If anyone can redraw the diagram handwritten (I think is the russian scheme) become more understandable because there are also parameters to adjust the trimmers so I woulb be already in a calibration to made working the device...
It would good to have a circuit like Shark 01 for Lantern3
Cheers
Took a few hours to build this Akula dual 494 switcher. I tested both channels independently with dummy resistor loads.
Channel 1 Frequency range around 13 kHz to 400 kHz, duty cycle control, 0 to 45%
Channel 2 Frequency range around 26 kHz to 800 kHz duty cycle control 0 to 90%
With five parameters and such wide adjustability, it would seem difficult to hit the sweet spot.
I used ten turn trimmers for good resolution of setting.
Note that one of the trimmers, the 10k hooked to pin 1 sets the voltage shutdown level.
Core and coil testing is the next phase.
@All
Time ago I found this chart on the frequencies of the land that should be used for devices free energy ... I hope is helpful
@All
I've assembled the circuit with my little experience of electronic and wanted more information if anyone could help me ...
Question:
- The potentiometers are linear or logarithmic?
- Capacitors 3nF must be ceramic?
- Seems to me that Akula has put a big ceramic capacitor in the device but in my scheme is missing.....
Thank who answer my question...
Quote from: TutorialFE on 2014.05.01, 12:58:05
@All
I've assembled the circuit with my little experience of electronic and wanted more information if anyone could help me ...
Question:
- The potentiometers are linear or logarithmic?
- Capacitors 3nF must be ceramic?
- Seems to me that Akula has put a big ceramic capacitor in the device but in my scheme is missing.....
Thank who answer my question...
TutorialFE,
You can use LIN pot-meters.
Can be any capacitor type, ceramic or foil.
It is not a capacitor, it is a NTC resistor for over-voltage protection.
GL.
Negative Temperature Coefficient resistors do not provide overvoltage protection, they are a class of thermistors that decrease resistance with increasing temperature. This would obviously cause a self destruction of the NTC thermistor or the circuit itself.
PTC thermistors increase resistance with temperature, again no protection here unless it is in series with the device you are trying to protect. These only limit current but must be sized properly or will also self destruct.
I think you mean bulk metal oxide varistor otherwise known as MOV that have a soft conduction knee for circuits like a bidirectional zener. They can safely absorb and dissipate a certain number of Joules above their voltage clamp rating. These look like large ceramic capacitors.
As far as capacitors go, film type will be more stable than ceramics with temperature unless they are the class NPO type. Film types will also have less leakage and be more stable in timing circuits. Ceramics are mostly used for bypass except for a few types that offer a specified drift value that usually offsets the drift of some other component to null out the temperature susceptibility.
I agree, linear pots seem to work quite well with the TL494. I prefer to use multiturn types to have finer resolution of parameter setting, especially since in the Akula designs you are trying to hit a very narrow window of frequency and duty cycle.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-a-NPO-ceramic-capacitor
Quote from: TutorialFE on 2014.05.01, 12:58:05
@All
I've assembled the circuit with my little experience of electronic and wanted more information if anyone could help me ...
Question:
- The potentiometers are linear or logarithmic?
- Capacitors 3nF must be ceramic?
- Seems to me that Akula has put a big ceramic capacitor in the device but in my scheme is missing.....
Thank who answer my question...
3nF ceramic or other, but not electrlitical.
"- The potentiometers are linear or logarithmic?"
Here is simple potentiometers, in other words are variable resistors.
Quote from: ION on 2014.05.01, 19:28:02
Negative Temperature Coefficient resistors do not provide overvoltage protection, they are a class of thermistors that decrease resistance with increasing temperature. This would obviously cause a self destruction of the NTC thermistor or the circuit itself.
PTC thermistors increase resistance with temperature, again no protection here unless it is in series with the device you are trying to protect. These only limit current but must be sized properly or will also self destruct.
I think you mean bulk metal oxide varistor otherwise known as MOV that have a soft conduction knee for circuits like a bidirectional zener. They can safely absorb and dissipate a certain number of Joules above their voltage clamp rating. These look like large ceramic capacitors.
As far as capacitors go, film type will be more stable than ceramics with temperature unless they are the class NPO type. Film types will also have less leakage and be more stable in timing circuits. Ceramics are mostly used for bypass except for a few types that offer a specified drift value that usually offsets the drift of some other component to null out the temperature susceptibility.
I agree, linear pots seem to work quite well with the TL494. I prefer to use multiturn types to have finer resolution of parameter setting, especially since in the Akula designs you are trying to hit a very narrow window of frequency and duty cycle.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor
http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-a-NPO-ceramic-capacitor
ION,
The hand draw circuit had a Thermistors symbol. I did not find FNR 109 on the web.
I agree that it can be a MOV. But I think the main purpose the designer had was to
snub the high voltage spikes from the coil to protect the MOSFET from high voltage.
http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2420.0;attach=13199;image
GL.
Quote from: Groundloop on 2014.05.01, 20:35:21
ION,
The hand draw circuit had a Thermistors symbol. I did not find FNR 109 on the web.
I agree that it can be a MOV. But I think the main purpose the designer had was to
snub the high voltage spikes from the coil to protect the MOSFET from high voltage.
http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2420.0;attach=13199;image
GL.
Agreed, it could also be a TVS or transient voltage suppressor diode, but he did not use that symbol either.
Countries do differ in their symbols on the more exotic devices.
I think the upside down Ohm sign is a clue, maybe some sort of start up bias applied across the core? maybe the core needs to be hot to work and this heats it up on power up.
Mho is an alternative name of the same unit, the reciprocal of one ohm. Mho is derived from spelling ohm backwards and is written with an upside-down capital Greek letter Omega: \mho, Unicode symbol U+2127 (℧). According to Maver[3] the term mho was suggested by Sir William Thomson (Lord Kelvin). The mho was officially renamed to the siemens, replacing the old meaning of the "siemens unit", at a conference in 1881.[4]
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siemens_%28unit%29
Great progress happening here but I think we should start off of a basic concept like this http://laserhacker.com/?p=401
LS is the only person that has come close to any sort of similar effects. Here is his most recent video if you haven't seen it already.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dq9NQhzdw0&list=UUIKzUKkh7XtnSYPW0AJb-9w
@All
Good news...
I've probably figured out the thickness of the wires for an Akula Lantern 3
this is not a game I begin to think that there are too many coincidences to be a fake ...
I found the cables also the ferrite ...... things quite difficult to find but the nice that match the number of turn on ferrite shown in the diagram with the wires that I've found around....
so if it were a real game some things would not go back ..
I've put the pictures of possible ways to build the cable with copper wires for large electric motors and electric wires with shrink wrap for multi-layer to build the thickness of the plastic part isolant
Below my discover....
@GL-MenF
Thanks for answering ...
I understand that a NTC ...I've seen so many on the boards of television that I'm using for finding free components ... if NTC serves as a component where I have to put in the circuit of the Lantern 3 which values?
Quote from: TutorialFE on 2014.05.02, 14:15:20
@All
Good news...
I've probably figured out the thickness of the wires for an Akula Lantern 3
this is not a game I begin to think that there are too many coincidences to be a fake ...
I found the cables also the ferrite ...... things quite difficult to find but the nice that match the number of turn on ferrite shown in the diagram with the wires that I've found around....
so if it were a real game some things would not go back ..
I've put the pictures of possible ways to build the cable with copper wires for large electric motors and electric wires with shrink wrap for multi-layer to build the thickness of the plastic part isolant
Below my discover....
@GL-MenF
Thanks for answering ...
I understand that a NTC ...I've seen so many on the boards of television that I'm using for finding free components ... if NTC serves as a component where I have to put in the circuit of the Lantern 3 which values?
TutorialFE,
It is very hard to say. The symbol on the drawing was for a Thermistor and the upside down Ohm symbol may indicate
a negative Thermistor. This may indicate a NTC component. I did a search on the Internet for the FNR 109, but could not find any.
So your guess work is as good as mine. Now, if the designers intent was to protect the MOSFET for over voltage,
then I would use any over voltage component that was rated a bit lower in voltage than the maximum voltage the MOSFET
can handle. But then again, the blue component can be anything, only Akyla knows.
GL.
@ All
I finished assembling the whole thing ...
I followed the scheme with the diodes UF4007 ...
For the pots I found those from 22k to 20k and I have not founf them... according to the parameters of another
scheme that with the signs in Russian F1 at 14K Q1 0-50% of the possibility of adjusting the U-OUT (10K) to find the
adjustment ..
the other F1 to 16.6K.. Q1 to adjust from 0 to 95% ... (I've turned the pot to the right and the left, and change the intensity of light LEDs increasing ...or diminuend )
The values on the scheme take with multimeter from the center of the pot to the negative I hope is right... and not viceversa
Who could confirm that this was the right setting?
I tried turning on the LEDs come on but when the pull out the battery everything switch off ...
What could I do to understand the regulation of the 3 other pot... ??
The wire of the telephone is very strong to bend instead the neon wire is soft...( but i don't have a long wire) maybe could be also a problem that ?
Hope somebody answer also Akula0083 if he's online.....and seen the forum...
Quote from: stprue on 2014.05.02, 12:30:19
Great progress happening here but I think we should start off of a basic concept like this http://laserhacker.com/?p=401
LS is the only person that has come close to any sort of similar effects. Here is his most recent video if you haven't seen it already.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dq9NQhzdw0&list=UUIKzUKkh7XtnSYPW0AJb-9w
Looks like LS successfully replicated the 3v flashlight.. but using a simplified 9v circuit and about 10 min run time.. probably the same run time as others, but they don't tell you that part.
http://www.overunity.com/14524/3v-ou-flashlight/
@TutorialFE
Nice work on your build! Sorry I can't answer the your questions. I hope you get it self running! Thanks for keeping us updated. O0
TutorialFE said:
QuoteThe wire of the telephone is very strong to bend instead the neon wire is soft...( but i don't have a long wire) maybe could be also a problem that ?
Some telephone wire is copper clad steel, typically the type that goes from the pole to your house. Copper clad steel is cheaper and stronger than pure copper, but is magnetic and will affect the operation by introducing eddy current losses in the steel part.
You might want to check your wire with a magnet.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My circuit is built up and the transformer wound and connected. I am taking a slightly different approach and not trying to light any LED's, rather I am allowing 100% of the output of the 19 turn winding to bootstrap the power input using a Schottky diode.
My reasoning is that it will be easier to find the sweet spot without trying to drag the load of the LEDs along with the other circuit quiescent burdens.
I am supplying 9 volts input from a power supply (through a decoupling diode) and am watching the current as I tune, the idea being to find a sudden dip in the current drain, which is typically around 10 mA. So the circuit completely bootstrapped draws around 90 mW at one setting of the pots.
If the sweet spot is found the voltage should soar beyond the 9 volt input setting and the voltage shutdown potentiometer is set to shut the circuit down at 10 volts. If the sweet spot is found, the oscillator circuit will then be "gated" as it cycles around the voltage limit.
I am also watching the waveforms as I tune.
With such a broad range of tuning, and so many parameters to tune it is like trying to find a needle in the haystack. It would be helpful to know the approximate center frequency and duty cycle for each oscillator in an attempt to narrow the tuning range, but I know this will differ for each ferrite used.
Note that the transformer phasing dots on the hand drawn schematic are not shown on the later "cleaned up" schematics.
@ION
Thanks for the update! O0
Quote from: TutorialFE on 2014.05.03, 12:51:24
@ All
I finished assembling the whole thing ...
I followed the scheme with the diodes UF4007 ...
For the pots I found those from 22k to 20k and I have not founf them... according to the parameters of another
scheme that with the signs in Russian F1 at 14K Q1 0-50% of the possibility of adjusting the U-OUT (10K) to find the
adjustment ..
the other F1 to 16.6K.. Q1 to adjust from 0 to 95% ... (I've turned the pot to the right and the left, and change the intensity of light LEDs increasing ...or diminuend )
The values on the scheme take with multimeter from the center of the pot to the negative I hope is right... and not viceversa
Who could confirm that this was the right setting?
I tried turning on the LEDs come on but when the pull out the battery everything switch off ...
What could I do to understand the regulation of the 3 other pot... ??
The wire of the telephone is very strong to bend instead the neon wire is soft...( but i don't have a long wire) maybe could be also a problem that ?
Hope somebody answer also Akula0083 if he's online.....and seen the forum...
http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2420.0;attach=13330
This schematic is wrong, here no sinchronisation betwenn two TL494 generators, I ask question for Akula if no be sinchronization, then it works? He say, that not works. Something like this be my and he words. :)
"Note that the transformer phasing dots on the hand drawn schematic are not shown on the later "cleaned up" schematics."
About dots. I see video and in video all two beginings let say of windings conected together and conected to plus, one other end conected to drain one mosfet, other end coected to drain other mosfet. :)
Quote from: MenofFather on 2014.05.04, 08:10:21
http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2420.0;attach=13330
This schematic is wrong, here no sinchronisation betwenn two TL494 generators, I ask question for Akula if no be sinchronization, then it works? He say, that not works. Something like this be my and he words. :)
"Note that the transformer phasing dots on the hand drawn schematic are not shown on the later "cleaned up" schematics."
About dots. I see video and in video all two beginings let say of windings conected together and conected to plus, one other end conected to drain one mosfet, other end coected to drain other mosfet. :)
MenofFather,
Why not ask Akula for the correct circuit drawing then?
With ALL information provided and correct core and coil data.
With correct measurements and o-scope data.
GL.
Quote from: Groundloop on 2014.05.04, 10:25:14
MenofFather,
Why not ask Akula for the correct circuit drawing then?
With ALL information provided and correct core and coil data.
With correct measurements and o-scope data.
GL.
After he made that video, you would think the best proof that his device works is for others to get working replicas. That would be so much easier with a schematic from him.
Quote from: ION on 2014.05.03, 22:44:20
@ION You might want to check your wire with a magnet.
I checked the copper wire phone with a permanent magnet from hard disk and there 'no attraction ... It's will probably more strong because it will not be 100% copper.
I did a comparison of the hardness and telephone pylons of 1 mm thickness is harder than what I have of the old houses from 1.25 thickness..
so I think it is not good for the windings as it does not fit well to the shape of the ferrite ...
I will replace it with 0.75mm enamelled copper wire that I removed from a vacuum cleaner 1000w motor.. thicness isolated with the shrink that I posted pictures that are 1 meter long
Then not having the oscilloscope will try to see what happens when you put a compass near ferrite turn potentiometers ....
If I'll have to examine or modify the circuit with the oscilloscope there will be problems in some way I will try to do everything to made woking the circuit....
Thanks to all
Quote from: TutorialFE on 2014.05.04, 23:44:44
Then not having the oscilloscope will try to see what happens when you put a compass near ferrite turn potentiometers ....
Hi! If you need an oscilloscope for less than 1Mhz then you can get one for less than $70US. Of course you can get higher bandwidth but will cost more.
Just wasn't sure if you knew how low they start at.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0U008M6442&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Measuring+Tools-_-9SIA0U008M6442&ef_id=UvmTBwAABee@GmY0:20140505015726:s
Quote from: 4Tesla on 2014.05.05, 02:02:44
Hi! If you need an oscilloscope for less than 1Mhz then you can get one for less than $70US. Of course you can get higher bandwidth but will cost more.
Just wasn't sure if you knew how low they start at.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0U008M6442&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleMKP&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleMKP-_-pla-_-Measuring+Tools-_-9SIA0U008M6442&ef_id=UvmTBwAABee@GmY0:20140505015726:s
Thanks,
I've already had some indication from Grum ...
The point for me that I do not have much money to invest in researching... as I understand in home device ... It must have a lot of knowledge ... recover pieces that do not are produce anymore .... have a good equipment for the various measurements such as those of Akula ...
it seems that he still saving money but to the instrumentation did not think much and it comes with several oscilloscopes and frequency generators ...
from my point of view it would cost much less if the partial winding resonance it would put a person at Akula knowledge and sent after payment of the windings with ferrite
then each one who receives the winding does the electronic circuit and puts everything in function ... so there would be no need for anyone to buy all of the laboratory equipment ...
I think a team group would be easier...
Quote from: Groundloop on 2014.05.04, 10:25:14
MenofFather,
Why not ask Akula for the correct circuit drawing then?
With ALL information provided and correct core and coil data.
With correct measurements and o-scope data.
GL.
I ask him or he can give circiut of 1 W divice. He say, that he not give circuit.
Quote from: MenofFather on 2014.05.05, 16:39:38
I ask him or he can give circiut of 1 W divice. He say, that he not give circuit.
Well that is an interesting reply that can lead one to several conclusions:
1) He has a working circuit, but does not wish to give it for whatever reasons (other business associations, loss of the spotlight, youtube hit counter, etc.)
2) He does not have a working circuit, therefore cannot give what he does not have.
In the progression of invention, we see engineers go from bench type proof of concept devices, then scale up to usable devices that benefit mankind.
In the Akula devices, it is all over the place, but no scaling upward, no steady progression and improvement, in fact some of the latest, more viable units seem to go back down in scale and power output.
I cannot guess what they are but believe there may be other factors at play here. I will say that non of this behavior fits true open source activity, but then he never really joined the club.
@All
Good news something happen...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zg3txfwU9o
Quote from: TutorialFE on 2014.05.05, 18:40:25
@All
Good news something happen...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zg3txfwU9o
What was it?
Quote from: MenofFather on 2014.05.05, 16:39:38
I ask him or he can give circiut of 1 W divice. He say, that he not give circuit.
That's Ok, we should be smart enough to experiment on our own.
Personally I'm a bit tired of having crumb droppers dangle pieces at us then holding back. Seems to be the MO of just about every project we have been involved in.
We have a reasonably good starting point. We have some good minds to hypothesize and test from here.
Even if he was faking it, the idea of hitting some anomalous activity in a ferrite containing MnZn via either NMR or NAR is worthy of experiment. Some of us have been seriously considering this via other channels.
So how found frenquency of ferite? Akula say, wound one turns and then LC circuit frenquency be much higher and we see frenquency of ferite.
There is a serious difference between the hand drawn schematic schem2.jpg and later cleaned up schematics of the Dual TL494 Akula lamp driver.
The hand drawn schematic has an separate external generated power supply (19 turn winding, 3 diodes and 2200 uF cap) that feeds just the 7 and 13 turn windings, it is not connected to a main bus powering the chips and LED's bus as in the other cleaned up schematics. This has a big advantage.
Upon startup current is fed from the battery through the 13 turn winding and through SF 56 diode to allow the chips to power up.
After power up, the internal chip power bus is allowed to be pumped up higher than the battery applied voltage by the flyback action of the 13 turn winding and SF56. The LED bank is attached to the internal power supply bus.
It is the disconnection of the two separate supplies that allows the internal chips and LED power supply to be pumped higher than the applied power when first touched by the battery.
This also regulates the burst mode (shutdown of H4 oscillator) via the 10k voltage preset pot on pin 4, as well as regulating the internal supply.
All of the cleaned up schematics (except the Chris Sykes version) have both the internal and external (secondary) supplies connected together. This causes the problem with the flyback diodes.
I called attention to the flyback diodes VD3 and VD6 in a prior post. The way they are drawn in the cleaned up schematics, they will allow little to no power in the 19 turn secondary as they completely snub and recirculate the current in the 7 and 13 turn windings
I am told the hand drawn schematic was reverse engineered from captures of the printed circuit board. The hand drawn schematic makes much more sense to me.
Edit: Added the corrected schematic AkyDoubleTL494.gif
Hi Ion,
to add to the confusion, there seems to be an "updated" hand drawn schematic, see the one posted by Groundloop on page 1 of
this thread: http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=2420.msg38125#msg38125
Spot the differences:
removed SF56 on the bottom MOSFET
removed text "12mA 9v" above the pin 12 lines
Added + - symbols plus text right of the lower MOSFET
added text "FNR 109" below the varistor symbol
Regards Itsu
Regarding the two hand drawn schematics and their differences:
In the uncorrected schematic (schem2.jpg, it is the wire drawn just to the left of the switch to the upper power rail that is one concern. This line effectively ties the chips and led supply voltage to the battery / 19 turn winding supply. It also causes the upper SF56 to shunt the primary 13 turn winding.
It is well known that shunting the drive winding with a diode in a flyback converter kills any transfer of energy to the secondary. The energy is all wasted as heat in the diode and the resistance of the winding. Snubber networks are used instead to tame the overshoot and ringing due to leakage inductance to a safe value, while allowing as much energy to be transferred to the secondary as possible.
SF56 on the lower FET to the rail also circulates all flyback energy in the 7 turn winding, wasting it. Same for the upper FET and it's SF56 if that wire is in place. The wire was removed on the schematic you posted, a derivitive of AkyDoubleTL494.gif, as was the lower SF56, now allowing the transfer of energy to the 19 turn and allowing for a possible "bootstrapped" operation with no waste of energy. (except for the LED's and chip quiescent current).
I believe the schematic you posted is the more workable corrected version.
Unfortunately, the early cleaned schematics do not reflect all of these changes.
When I get back to the bench I will incorporate them into my build.
Note: I just added the corrected schematic to my earlier post
Quote from: ION on 2014.05.07, 22:09:37
Regarding the two hand drawn schematics and their differences:
In the uncorrected schematic (schem2.jpg, it is the wire drawn just to the left of the switch to the upper power rail that is one concern. This line effectively ties the chips and led supply voltage to the battery / 19 turn winding supply. It also causes the upper SF56 to shunt the primary 13 turn winding.
It is well known that shunting the drive winding with a diode in a flyback converter kills any transfer of energy to the secondary. The energy is all wasted as heat in the diode and the resistance of the winding. Snubber networks are used instead to tame the overshoot and ringing due to leakage inductance to a safe value, while allowing as much energy to be transferred to the secondary as possible.
SF56 on the lower FET to the rail also circulates all flyback energy in the 7 turn winding, wasting it. Same for the upper FET and it's SF56 if that wire is in place. The wire was removed on the schematic you posted, a derivitive of AkyDoubleTL494.gif, as was the lower SF56, now allowing the transfer of energy to the 19 turn and allowing for a possible "bootstrapped" operation with no waste of energy. (except for the LED's and chip quiescent current).
I believe the schematic you posted is the more workable corrected version.
Unfortunately, the early cleaned schematics do not reflect all of these changes.
When I get back to the bench I will incorporate them into my build.
Note: I just added the corrected schematic to my earlier post
ION,
I have checked the two hand drawings. The later one does not have the wire up to plus. So the version you posted
above is a newer version that was not available to me when I did the cleaned up version.
GL.
Quote from: Groundloop on 2014.05.08, 13:51:06
ION,
I have checked the two hand drawings. The later one does not have the wire up to plus. So the version you posted
above is a newer version that was not available to me when I did the cleaned up version.
GL.
GL
I understand that and hope it is a help that I have analyzed the two schematics. Your work is greatly appreciated.
Quote from: Groundloop on 2014.05.08, 13:51:06
ION,
I have checked the two hand drawings. The later one does not have the wire up to plus. So the version you posted
above is a newer version that was not available to me when I did the cleaned up version.
GL.
Hmmm, i do not agree here, as the version you posted Groundloop surely was already updated (newer) looking at the erased parts (lower SF56, "12mA 9v" text above the pin 12 lines, wire up to plus, etc.).
Regards itsu
Quote from: Itsu on 2014.05.08, 14:30:12
Hmmm, i do not agree here, as the version you posted Groundloop surely was already updated (newer) looking at the erased parts (lower SF56, "12mA 9v" text above the pin 12 lines, wire up to plus, etc.).
Regards itsu
Itsu:
Can you name the schematic GL posted, as far as I know, the two power supplies were accidentally tied together with most of the later schematics and the lower SF56 is an error.
The correct schematic should not have the two supplies tied together (line from junction of 13 turn, 7turn, switch, 1000uF and battery terminal should not connect to upper TL494 and LEDs), and should delete the lower SF56 diode. Also the line from pin 12 of lower chip to the 1000uF capacitor should be removed.
The attached schematic is the correct one:
Quote from: Itsu on 2014.05.08, 14:30:12
Hmmm, i do not agree here, as the version you posted Groundloop surely was already updated (newer) looking at the erased parts (lower SF56, "12mA 9v" text above the pin 12 lines, wire up to plus, etc.).
Regards itsu
Itsu,
There is so many versions floating around on the net. I do not think it matter much anyway.
GL.
Quote from: ION on 2014.05.08, 14:47:50
Itsu:
Can you name the schematic GL posted, as far as I know, the two power supplies were accidentally tied together with most of the later schematics and the lower SF56 is an error.
The correct schematic should not have the two supplies tied together (line from junction of 13 turn, 7turn, switch, 1000uF and battery terminal should not connect to upper TL494 and LEDs), and should delete the lower SF56 diode. Also the line from pin 12 of lower chip to the 1000uF capacitor should be removed.
The attached schematic is the correct one:
Correct, thats the one Groundloop posted in his post on page 1: http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=2420.msg38125#msg38125
Regards Itsu
Quote from: Groundloop on 2014.05.08, 14:56:36
Itsu,
There is so many versions floating around on the net. I do not think it matter much anyway.
GL.
well, if its that version that gives ION a good feeling, i would go for that one first.
Regards Itsu
Quote from: Itsu on 2014.05.08, 15:01:25
well, if its that version that gives ION a good feeling, i would go for that one first.
Regards Itsu
Regarding reply #12, the upper schematic (AkyDoubleTL494.gif) was a rev2 reverse engineer of the board from the Russian site, all other schematics are derivatives of that schematic or the rev1 (shem2.jpg) version and include additional errors because they conform to rev1.
Not to say that this schematic is 100% correct, but, the derivative errors would be now compounding.
To clarify the first hand drawn schematic (shem2.jpg) had the errors, these were erased out in the second hand drawn schematic (AkyDoubleTL494.gif.(you can see the erase marks on the paper). The first hand drawn schematic was the basis for most all of the the cleaned up derivatives, errors and all.
If you are good at switch mode circuit analysis, you will see why it is my preferred schematic when you compare it to the derivatives.
I have explained my reasoning in earlier posts, especially post #53 above. I will be modifying my build and report in soon.
Quote from: ION on 2014.05.08, 16:25:25
Regarding reply #12, the upper schematic (AkyDoubleTL494.gif) was a rev2 reverse engineer of the board from the Russian site, all other schematics are derivatives of that schematic or the rev1 (shem2.jpg) version and include additional errors because they conform to rev1.
Not to say that this schematic is 100% correct, but, the derivative errors would be now compounding.
To clarify the first hand drawn schematic (shem2.jpg) had the errors, these were erased out in the second hand drawn schematic (AkyDoubleTL494.gif.(you can see the erase marks on the paper). The first hand drawn schematic was the basis for most all of the the cleaned up derivatives, errors and all.
If you are good at switch mode circuit analysis, you will see why it is my preferred schematic when you compare it to the derivatives.
I have explained my reasoning in earlier posts, especially post #53 above. I will be modifying my build and report in soon.
Dear ION.
I have been a little busy with the 30 W device but I am following the other threads as well.
Would you kindly re post the schematic and might I humbly request it be given a new suffix. Perhaps on the lines of OUR lantern replication. I myself am finding it difficult to follow all these versions !!
New broom ?? O0
Just my thoughts.
Cheers Grum.
Quote from: Grumage on 2014.05.08, 18:25:55
Dear ION.
I have been a little busy with the 30 W device but I am following the other threads as well.
Would you kindly re post the schematic and might I humbly request it be given a new suffix. Perhaps on the lines of OUR lantern replication. I myself am finding it difficult to follow all these versions !! New broom ?? O0
Just my thoughts.
Cheers Grum.
The "AkyDoubleTL494" schematic is the correct one. I hate to rename it as it will just add to the confusion. The link you sent to me from the Russian site also had the correct schematic, but a strange name. It is a much lower resolution version, I wouldn't use it unless you have no problem reading the fine stuff.
John Blade is also reverse engineering the board and started a new thread for it at OU.com.
On another note I was able to make the changes to my breadboard and it does indeed now produce the packets, but requires very careful adjustment( I'm using 10 turn trimmers for good resolution of setting). There are interesting very crisp changes in light intensity as the frequency is adjusted. This occurs in bands dim / bright /dim /bright for very small changes in frequency. I suspect it is the oscillators locking in then losing sync.
No stand alone operation though, but I believe the circuit is very close to working correctly, it might be just a matter of finding the right settings.
More to come.
Quote from: ION on 2014.05.08, 21:14:55
The "AkyDoubleTL494" schematic is the correct one. I hate to rename it as it will just add to the confusion. The link you sent to me from the Russian site also had the correct schematic, but a strange name. It is a much lower resolution version, I wouldn't use it unless you have no problem reading the fine stuff.
John Blade is also reverse engineering the board and started a new thread for it at OU.com.
On another note I was able to make the changes to my breadboard and it does indeed now produce the packets, but requires very careful adjustment( I'm using 10 turn trimmers for good resolution of setting). There are interesting very crisp changes in light intensity as the frequency is adjusted. This occurs in bands dim / bright /dim /bright for very small changes in frequency. I suspect it is the oscillators locking in then losing sync.
No stand alone operation though, but I believe the circuit is very close to working correctly, it might be just a matter of finding the right settings.
More to come.
ION,
Attached is the circuit that John Blade found when he did a reverse engineer drawing of the actual PCB that Akula did use.
On his circuit there is a direct connection between the two plus rails. I have attached his drawing here.
One other issue, I think I have tracked down the "FNR" component. It is most probably a ZINC OXIDE LEADED VARISTOR.
See attached data sheet.
GL.
Quote from: ION on 2014.05.08, 21:14:55
No stand alone operation though, but I believe the circuit is very close to working correctly, it might be just a matter of finding the right settings.
....and failing that, further pondering on that green cap strapped across the supply rails! It appears to have a 5V rating, which would indicate a high capacity.
Hoppy
Quote from: Hoppy on 2014.05.09, 06:49:19
....and failing that, further pondering on that green cap strapped across the supply rails! It appears to have a 5V rating, which would indicate a high capacity.
Hoppy
Yes, a 5V rating would indicate high capacity for that size, like 0.1 F or more. Are we wasting our time here?
Regarding the schematic discrepancies, I have built it both ways and find the schematic I posted "AkyDoubleTL494.gif" works the best, but is not exhibiting self run.
I set up each oscillator separately, then ran them both together.
The H4 oscillator I set up for as low a duty cycle as possible and maximum high frequency. Then I set the voltage adjustment so that the H4 oscillator triggers on and off "in a binary manner" by triggering on the ripple voltage on the internal bus. This then gives the HF packets (picket fence) with about a 50% duty cycle of "packets on to packets off".
Then I introduce the B4 oscillator with a much lower frequency and low duty cycle. There are many frequency adjustments of this oscillator that cause very discrete bands of dimming then getting very bright, a lot more action to the controls than with the earlier schematic.
Since I don't have a clue where the sweet spot is, one could spend an eternity hunting for the best setting position of the 5 controls.
GL: Yes, those varistors also come in aqua color from other manufacturers. Regarding John Blade's reverse engineering: I am trying to verify this but need a higher quality scanned version of the print. There are some circled sections of the initial version that need developing, as well as other areas. I will try compare it to the other reverse engineered print of the board.
All for now, will experiment more as time permits.
For Peter: embellishments (emoticons, quotes, bold, italics etc.) to the post are not working for me, is this my computer problem? I'll try a different computer.
Quote from: ION on 2014.05.09, 13:05:32
Yes, a 5V rating would indicate high capacity for that size, like 0.1 F or more. Are we wasting our time here?
Not necessarily because its possible that the first digit is missing off the sleeve, which as Peterae commented some while ago, is not uncommon. However, I have since viewed many angle variations and cannot see any clear indication that a digit is missing. it is fairly clearly not a 50V rated cap from close observation. Another factor that indicates to me that this capacitor is powering the device (when the 9V battery is removed), is that there is no other reason to place an electrolytic cap as close as possible to the wire connections to a 9V battery that is just connected for short time to start the device. It is not smoothing anything, or in a feedback loop as far as I tell from the schematics that have been so far produced from back engineering the circuit board. Added to this IMO Akula has clearly faked his big table top garden demo and given that he is capable of this where does faking stop with him.
I do feel that there is an interesting capacitive effect with his copper tape wound ferrite coils which I'm currently investigating but think he is simply trying to enhance the effect by adding a bit of added energy in order to light a few extra LED's to make the demo look more convincing as self-runner.
Hoppy
Hello All:
This is a post I made earlier today @ O.U.com:
Quote from: itsu on 2014.05.09, 15:47:19
My potcores arrived (4.7cm / Al 9500) so i went for the 5.4 / 2.7mH setup using a pot core.
......
Regards Itsu
Good day Itsu
Have you tried to 'characterize' the 'ferro-resonance' frequency of this new POT core?
Do you have access to a spectrum analyzer?
I agree with Vortex1 (ION) that one could spend an eternity trying to guess the tuning for this animal without some kind of starting point for reference.
I would love to know if anyone has used a spectrum analyzer, like the Rigol seen in the Akula videos to 'characterize' their cores?
To carry out a thorough analysis of the problem one must consider *all* of the datum .... maybe we should consider to look at it from the frequency domain perspective.
take care, peace.
lost_bro
Quote from: lost_bro on 2014.05.09, 17:19:51
Hello All:
This is a post I made earlier today @ O.U.com:
Good day Itsu
Have you tried to 'characterize' the 'ferro-resonance' frequency of this new POT core?
Do you have access to a spectrum analyzer?
I agree with Vortex1 (ION) that one could spend an eternity trying to guess the tuning for this animal without some kind of starting point for reference.
I would love to know if anyone has used a spectrum analyzer, like the Rigol seen in the Akula videos to 'characterize' their cores?
To carry out a thorough analysis of the problem one must consider *all* of the datum .... maybe we should consider to look at it from the frequency domain perspective.
take care, peace.
lost_bro
Dear lost_bro.
I have set up a thread here..... http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=2430.msg38352;topicseen#msg38352
This is for exactly what you have just commented upon. If you or any members have any ideas how to pursue this line of investigation, I for one would be most grateful !!
Cheers Grum.
Take a look at this guys !!
http://www.overunity.com/14524/3v-ou-flashlight/msg401846/#msg401846
Cheers Grum.
Quote from: lost_bro on 2014.05.09, 17:19:51
Hello All:
This is a post I made earlier today @ O.U.com:
Good day Itsu
Have you tried to 'characterize' the 'ferro-resonance' frequency of this new POT core?
Do you have access to a spectrum analyzer?
I agree with Vortex1 (ION) that one could spend an eternity trying to guess the tuning for this animal without some kind of starting point for reference.
I would love to know if anyone has used a spectrum analyzer, like the Rigol seen in the Akula videos to 'characterize' their cores?
To carry out a thorough analysis of the problem one must consider *all* of the datum .... maybe we should consider to look at it from the frequency domain perspective.
take care, peace.
lost_bro
Hi Lost_bro,
no, i did not try to 'characterize' the 'ferro-resonance' frequency of this new POT core, nor do i have a spectrum analyzer, but i did not had my birthday yet this year ;)
Regards Itsu
Quote from: Itsu on 2014.05.09, 19:34:35
Hi Lost_bro,
no, i did not try to 'characterize' the 'ferro-resonance' frequency of this new POT core, nor do i have a spectrum analyzer, but i did not had my birthday yet this year ;)
Regards Itsu
Hi Itsu:
Best bang for the buck is the Rigol DSA815-TG;
http://www.tequipment.net/spectrum-analyzers/spectrum-analyzers-1/
Akula has the Rigol DSA815 basic model without the tracking generator. The Rigol DSA815-TG has the tracking generator which in my opinion is worth the extra $200.00 USD, and is only available as a factory installed option.
The link has the latest price... not to bad, thinking about getting one myself. O0
take care, peace
lost_bro
Yes, i have my eye also on the Rigol DSA815-TG for a while, but i have my doubts about the 1.5GHz.
I think it will be to low, but then again, its better then having no spectrum analyzer and the difference between one which can reach say 3GHz is very big.
Regards Itsu
@All
I've lucky found another ferrite from tv and I've discover the thikness of two (piece of paper that is shown in akula disassembled video but they are not paper) piece of plastic.
They are two piece of plastic 0.5 mm thikness
Also I think that the flyback that I've found is the easiest to take ferrite without any effort.
Dear All.
Have a look at this !! O0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6B79UJGoNJE
Simplicity !!
Cheers Grum.
Nice work Grum.
John Blade has an interesting build of the dual TL494 circuit that is exhibiting the long sought after "reverse ringing" or growth of a oscillating waveform, one possibility: energy is somehow being added.
http://www.overunity.com/14610/akula0083-light-no3-dual-tl494/msg402033/#msg402033
Watch the video on that post.
http://youtu.be/8_Bal_7F06s
Quote from: ION on 2014.05.11, 14:52:49
Nice work Grum.
John Blade has an interesting build of the dual TL494 circuit that is exhibiting the long sought after "reverse ringing" or growth of a oscillating waveform, one possibility: energy is somehow being added.
http://www.overunity.com/14610/akula0083-light-no3-dual-tl494/msg402033/#msg402033
Watch the video on that post.
http://youtu.be/8_Bal_7F06s
the higher frequency ringing is at 582Khz, so every time the faster TL494 fiires, it adds to the signal; not a somehow
Quote from: EMdevices on 2014.05.11, 14:30:01
Nice!
with a 100 % efficient circuit a 3000 uF cap charged to 9 volts should last quite a few hours.
Let's see, Energy in cap = 1/2 C V^2 = 0.12 J
Who can estimate how much average power those pulsing LEDs consume? 1 uW? maybe more?
EM
One led can consump 2 volts and 0,1-5 miliamperes, so 0,2-10 miliwatt.
Good day all:
He mentioned he switched to a 2n1304 germanium trans. '(S.J.L) lasersaber.'
ICmax=300ma
Vbe =.22v
So apparently needed a more efficient switching device to get it up and running.
attached 2n1304 datasheet.
take care, peace
lost_bro
Quote from: EMdevices on 2014.05.12, 16:53:46
thanks MenofFather, that's what I thought. So if the LED is pulsed, we can expect an LED to consume power in the uW range depending on the pulse width and duty. I'm pretty sure my joulethief circuit long ago was drawing around a few uWatts.
I mean in not nominal brightness that consumps (because in Lasersaber seems in not nomianal LEDs shine). If in nominal brightness, then one LED consumps 20-50 miliamperes, you can look datasheet. :)
If speek abou this lanter with two TL494, then transistors must be fast, open must around not more than 50 nanosecond and close around not more than 50 ns. If then not be that fast, then this divice not works how selfrunner. In Akula ferite feroresonance is about 3.5 megaherc. So feroresonance is qiute hight frenquency, so transistors must be like I say, fast closing and opening, not all can close with 50 ns time.
LS now has an updated unit with a different transistor. Fantastic run time!
http://laserhacker.com/?p=410
A new record.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5EXisVd9Xs
new replicators
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QZhebKXdJNM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQXGJgeGbh8
Other replicators....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cz-i8JoY8nU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjJ1iVNHd4s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3UJ6tVWrmg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdWoat2Zjoo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QbRiR5xsSc
Finally got around to put together this dual tl494 akula device on a breadboard, at least the first part without the coils and load.
I used the updated handdrawn diagram which you can partly see in the picture.
I had to modify some things to get to the mentioned 16.6KHz on the lower B4 tl494 by adding a 10K resistor between pin 6 and the 20K pot.
Also the 180 Ohm resistor at pins 9/10 of this B4 chip needed to be upped to 1K as it got hot (i also used a 1K on the upper chip H4 pin 10).
Transistors used (PNP) are 2n5401 and the MOSFETs are IRFU320.
Nothing attached to the drains of the MOSFETs yet other then a 10K resistor to + (17V here).
H4 chip is set to 14KHz / 44% (max.) duty cycle as per the diagram.
B4 chip is set to 16.6KHz / 89% (max.) duty cycle as per the diagram.
See scopeshot 1
The drains output is shown in screenshot 2 and shows the reverse of screenshot 1, (same frequency, but reversed duty cycles).
Next is to wind the coils and attach the leds
Regards Itsu
Ok, as a side note concerning free energy;
today (8 June) it is exactly 1 year ago that our solar panel installation was started up.
This 6Kw (24 panels of 250W) has delivered 5912Kwh = almost 6Mwh of energy during that year.
As we used 3768Kwh ourselves we delivered/sold the rest to the net.
Record day was on 8 June last year (first day in operation) with a yield of 44Kwh.
My wife already uses this to charge the battery of her electrical bike, so she goes green, but there is enough
room to charge a little electrical/hybrid car which will be our next goal.
One pitfall discovered up till now is that during operation on a hot day >25°C the panels get so hot (up till 70°C)
that the efficiency drops with almost a third, so it won't deliver more then about 4.3Kw on a hot sunny day compared
to peaking 6.2Kw on a cooler cloudy day (when the clouds move away that is).
Regards Itsu
That's quiet interesting Itsu regarding the performance, thanks for the insight O0
Have you an idea how long to pay back the cost of installation
Thanks
Peter
Quote from: Itsu on 2014.06.08, 09:39:30
Ok, as a side note concerning free energy;
today (8 June) it is exactly 1 year ago that our solar panel installation was started up.
This 6Kw (24 panels of 250W) has delivered 5912Kwh = almost 6Mwh of energy during that year.
As we used 3768Kwh ourselves we delivered/sold the rest to the net.
Record day was on 8 June last year (first day in operation) with a yield of 44Kwh.
My wife already uses this to charge the battery of her electrical bike, so she goes green, but there is enough
room to charge a little electrical/hybrid car which will be our next goal.
One pitfall discovered up till now is that during operation on a hot day >25°C the panels get so hot (up till 70°C)
that the efficiency drops with almost a third, so it won't deliver more then about 4.3Kw on a hot sunny day compared
to peaking 6.2Kw on a cooler cloudy day (when the clouds move away that is).
Regards Itsu
Good day Itsu
Great to hear of your success with the solar installation. I run a small company here in Mexico, we install 'Grid tie' Solar systems...... Is your system's topology 'String' inverter or 'Micro' inverter?
I would assume you are located in the Northern latitudes; It is good to see that some countries are actively promoting grid 'interconnection' type installations (paying for excess generation).
Mexico does NOT pay for excess production, only gives an energy credit good for up to one year. After that amount of time, if you don't use your produced excess, it becomes government property...... What a scam....
But you are correct, solar is the closest thing to 'Free' energy that I have ever used!!!!
take care, peace
lost_bro
Peter,
up till now we saved about 1020 Euro in this year (went from 90 euro a month to 50 Euro in July 2013 till febr. this year, then got refunded 490 Euro,
then a further reduction to 40 euro / 2 months now which is all transportation costs).
So with an investment of about 9000 Euro it will be around 8.5 till 9 years, but the feeling of being partly green is nice.
Lost_bro,
its a 'String' inverter topology still, it has 3 strings.
I am located in the Netherlands and together with Germany there is a strong push to promote this kind of green energy.
From my colleagues in Italy, Spain and Croatia i learn that they get taxed or even fined for putting up such a solar installation and/or that
an installation half like mine costs the double of what i have paid :D
Real crazy considering the double amount of sunhours they got overthere.
Is there something to do against this efficiency drop when the panels get hot?
I mean i see some d.i.y. solutions like cooling ribs at the backside of the panels or air ducting or both.
Perhaps you can push some manufacturers to think about that as i see it as a loss.
Thanks, regards Itsu
Thanks Itsu, that's pretty good then, we also get subsidized here in the UK, it was a really good deal when it started about 5-7 years ago, but they have recently dropped the subsidy, but just the fact you have no bill is great, i would love to build an electric car, if i had the spare cash i would definitely be tinkering, i have had an electric bike for must be 5 years now, great fun.
Concerning the dual tl494 device, as promised, i have made a few U-core transformers and was tuning the last few days.
But its like ION said before, we have 5 pot meters and no idea where to aim for, so its like shooting in the dark.
The present big U-core i use has secondary 30 turns and primary 22 / 11
I tried severall different MOSFETs, presently using big IRFP264's but even those can get very hot.
Voltage across the leds plus resistor runs up till 40V, so needed to increase the current limiter resistor from 10 Ohm till 470 ohm now, while also putting 4 LEDs in series (3V leds).
Input is 9V with current limited to about 2A from my bench PS (a 9V battery won't last very long).
I have these 12V transil diodes, but they get very hot when putting one across the upper H4 = Q1 drain to ground.
Not sure if i can put 2 in series to up the protection to 24V, anyone?
I have a 140V varistor across the lower B4 = Q2 drain to ground
Anyway, no abnormalities seen yet.
Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ojsj_JMH1J0&feature=youtu.be
Regards Itsu
One or more of the coils may be reversed since there is no start/end indicator; and even if there were, it's quite possible it was just indicating 'a connection to the coil'
Akula's first 30kW thing; or whatever, which was 2 tesla coils was a mixer of 1 and 3x frequencies... but; what is the MO of this circuit? At least the version 4 with a choke I can vaguely see some sort of intent...
is the intent somehow to use one coil to drive power for the LEDs and the other to restore power for the first? (which may require additional diode things)
I can't see them working in parallel; it would just be a loss then, unless 2 signals striking at the same time moves x^2 current or is some other exponential; but then I'd think they'd be 100% in-sync instead of variable...
if a short duty cycle is used on the slower one (which drives the load) then a higher duty cycle one can be used in the blank spots; hadn't quite expected to see quite so square of signals.... I just made a 1.7H coil (1700000uH... driver on it is 176uH; with low current signal generator can build a resonance of 100x the input voltage...) but this coil is very sinusoidal with 3V drive...
My other issue is; I can't really find anything that has 2 drivers on the same core except a conventional 'resonant transformer' which has a primary and 2 secondaries, 1 secondary bound to a cap to provide an LC tank that can cover gaps in primary power... because all other coils ...(I guess a push-pull uses 2 coils, but they are never driven at the same time) get affected by the primary's change in current so opening a gate on another coil at the same time is really only draining the power from the coil uselessly...
if 2 coils do conduct power to ground at the same time... then they should just be parallel inductances? which is less than the lowest inductance; which leaves less power for the pickup coil...
and if one is reversed... then it would be 2 coils in series; which would be a bifilar with ends shorted; which is a square increase in inductance (if both were 1x, 2 of them in series is 4x inductance... ) but then again; why not just us a bifilar and 1 drive?
Quote from: d3x0r on 2014.06.15, 07:52:18
One or more of the coils may be reversed since there is no start/end indicator; and even if there were, it's quite possible it was just indicating 'a connection to the coil'............
Thanks d3x0r,
the handdrawn diagram that i use does have the start/end indicators, and i used the video in which Akule dissected this coil to copy the configuration.
But indeed, there could be a (deliberate) mix-up, but i did swap over the secondary leads without any difference noted.
I could swap over the primary coils too.
I will also measure the coils inductance's, both connected parallel (primary) and when disconnected at the common side.
Regards Itsu
Quote from: d3x0r on 2014.06.15, 07:52:18
if a short duty cycle is used on the slower one (which drives the load) then a higher duty cycle one can be used in the blank spots; hadn't quite expected to see quite so square of signals.... I just made a 1.7H coil (1700000uH... driver on it is 176uH; with low current signal generator can build a resonance of 100x the input voltage...) but this coil is very sinusoidal with 3V drive...
higher duty cycle actually means means higher frequency
@All I am increasingly convinced that these inventions never appear on the market ...
so I think we must build them ourself and help each other to put them working.
Sometimes it seems like a no-brainer but I think you have to have an acute sensitivity in assembling these devices because we play with electricity and magnetic field.
I hope that someone is able to replicate these inventions without thinking about the money to be obtained as that until proven otherwise, all patents are blocked for not being engineered or sold on sale.
Global warming advancing day by day and also the economic crisis and also wars in the world for oil industry this means that we are in a prison planet with no exits, the only exit and break the rules .... Like "The Truman Show"
Good vision...!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyDaVspeeNE&list=UU_zn0cdzv_qfsxQUm4e7R9w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_z_cqygQK8&list=UU_zn0cdzv_qfsxQUm4e7R9w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDoTiTjzRCI