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2019-07-16, 21:30:55
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Author Topic: 3D Printer Help, Discussions and Designs  (Read 562 times)

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A thread for all aspects of 3D printing.

Feel free to ask questions,provide handy tip's,and show off your designs.

May be a good idea to end your post with the modle of your printer.



Brad
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Thanks Brad,
This bloke has a bunch of good tips that I wish I had of watched  year ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sqh3FM12KVg
   

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I fixed my extruder clicking issue which was pusching the ptfe extruder tube down towards the nozzle and shrinking it. This caused filament starvation and subsequent blockage of nozzles. The fix was a new ptfe tube and making sur the filament entered perpendicular to the hotend.

Next issue is my right z axis motor has creep of up to 4mm. Over 30 mins it will gain 1mm. I've measured horiz distance beteewn motor screws top and bottom. They are good. I'm yet to pull them out of the flex coupling and reseat them but I think that is the next step or maybe compare volatges between the motors.
   

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I fixed my extruder clicking issue which was pusching the ptfe extruder tube down towards the nozzle and shrinking it. This caused filament starvation and subsequent blockage of nozzles. The fix was a new ptfe tube and making sur the filament entered perpendicular to the hotend.

Next issue is my right z axis motor has creep of up to 4mm. Over 30 mins it will gain 1mm. I've measured horiz distance beteewn motor screws top and bottom. They are good. I'm yet to pull them out of the flex coupling and reseat them but I think that is the next step or maybe compare volatges between the motors.

Regarding the Z axis problem.
I have seen a few guys now print up two belt pulley's,and put one at the top of each worm screw. They then put a belt around the two pulley's,so as to keep both motors in sync. This way either can miss a step,and the other will turn it that step anyway.


Brad


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... .-.. .. -.. . .-.
Checking in :)

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What i'd like to know, is if leaving filament out on a spool in a colder room makes it brittle?
The reel of black ABS has been connected up for about a year.... its a big reel.
The room is only partly heated, with the end of the room suffering drafts etc through the floorboards. Temps outside have been down to 15F (way below freezing in centigrade), but no idea of the wooden floor temperature.
My filament keeps breaking now at the extruder input and the thing has to be re-threaded if left overnight. Next day it will have snapped. 
A blanket on the floor would probably help, but just wondered if anyone else has had that issue.


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Checking in :)

Anet A8

What i'd like to know, is if leaving filament out on a spool in a colder room makes it brittle?
The reel of black ABS has been connected up for about a year.... its a big reel.
The room is only partly heated, with the end of the room suffering drafts etc through the floorboards. Temps outside have been down to 15F (way below freezing in centigrade), but no idea of the wooden floor temperature.
My filament keeps breaking now at the extruder input and the thing has to be re-threaded if left overnight. Next day it will have snapped. 
A blanket on the floor would probably help, but just wondered if anyone else has had that issue.
Have not used ABS yet. Just reading about it sounds bloody tricky to work with.
   

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Regarding the Z axis problem.
I have seen a few guys now print up two belt pulley's,and put one at the top of each worm screw. They then put a belt around the two pulley's,so as to keep both motors in sync. This way either can miss a step,and the other will turn it that step anyway.


Brad

Mmm sounds feasible. Other blokes are ditching their motherboards, I like the pulley idea better. Once I have it going I'll setup Rasppi with Octipi - that looks like a pretty awesome remote setup. Edit - ok parts bought for the pulley solution.
« Last Edit: 2019-01-24, 01:54:53 by JimBoot »
   
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  I use PLA and I have the breakage as well. This is in a typical 80* temp. Didn't do it at first then lately both reels are. I have the feeling that once you open the bag, it may lose or take on moisture which causes this.

Thay
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aaaah I wondered what the vacuum seal and desicant was all about... not enough to goolge it until I had the issue though. I've been measuring the effect of using neos mounted on the side to place load or some sort of field resistance.
The pattern that is working atm is South neos on rear and north on right side. I'm not sure now whether it's slowing it or speeding it up.  I'm thinking it's not that's fast up, it might be slow down, I only saw that when I started the print so I have ot measured.

The neos took the difference of a 1mm creep over 100mm to less than 0.1 - still not awesome but better and enough I hope to print some parts for the pulley solution.
   

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Most plastics absorb water, before injection moulding they roast the plastic granules for a while to remove the water content, sometimes you can here the spitting from the hot end if there is water present.


pla is ok but iis not a permenant plastic, will disintegrate in a moist atmosphere into carbon dioxide, ABS warps for larger builds, I moved to PETG 2 years ago and have not looked back since, I find layer adhesion is really good and can print large objects without warpage


Prusa i2, Prusa Samson in build.
   

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This time of year in WA,im more worried about the PLA melting :D.

I plan on experimenting with all types of filaments,but just getting to know,and improving my machine first.


Brad
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hahaha 44 here today but only 36 in the shed so got some work done. Turned the temp way down today on prints.
   
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... .-.. .. -.. . .-.
Well, fixed it again. Was looking around at comments and found PLA does go brittle.
Big mistake up above, I put ABS, but meant PLA  C.C
The latest was snapped filament inside the hotend. I was sat there for half an hour straightening the filament and it wouldn't go in.

You Australian guys could save a bunch of power, by unplugging the printer, taking it outside and moving the hot end around by hand. Just a bit of pressure on the filament to send it through!


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LOL. Well fortunately it's not as frequent over here as it is in Brad's shed. I was just watching a bloke who puts his TPU in a food dehydrator overnight. The results were pretty amazing. Luckily I have one which I usually use for tomatoes. Sounds like it mighht be handy for PLA too.

Have printed all the parts successfully including pulleys for my Z axis synchronisation , Giving it one last shot on the rotor before I do the change.
   
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What does it take to use mild steel filaments?
   

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What does it take to use mild steel filaments?
Have not tried with mild steel yet but bronze & iron will print on anything that prints PLA, so most printers.  https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/stainless-steel-pla They are non conductive as basically they're a powered material held in plastic. It allows you to play around with density and infill structures though which is interesting when looking at permeability. The ones I've printed so far remind me of mumetal permeability. No data yet though. I'm trying hexagon infill on the split toroid below. ONe trick I'm trying tonight is sitting the roll of filament on the heatbed at 60deg to make it easier to print.
   

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A very nice 3d printed motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkwLpAAfBVI

Mags
   

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Another way to do custom cores with a 3d printer is to print the core with common filament, use it to create a negative mold in clay/rubber/plaster, then use epoxy resin and with metal powders to get a custom core casting.

Ferrite powder, bismuth, aluminum, nickel, etc.  Any kind of custom core composite could be made this way.
   
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Another nice 3D printed motor using a Halbach array.  This gentleman has the art of 3D printing mastered IMO.  Check out his Utube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsSm65DAcCg

Pm
   
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