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2021-06-24, 17:23:36
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Author Topic: The Non-Sense Pulse Motor.  (Read 74302 times)

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It's not as complicated as it may seem...
Now,if CVR1 and C1 were part of the power supply,then there would be no questions asked(see schematic below),as P/in would be 81.2mA @ 24.1v + the small amount of P/in from the FG.
This would be measured at the power supply output.

I'm not following you here. Can you elaborate?
   

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I'm not following you here. Can you elaborate?

Well,power to  the coil would be calculated by using the voltage value of the cap x the current value flowing through CVR2. But because CVR1 and the cap are considered part of the circuit,then we are calculating P/in by voltage across the power supply x current through CVR1


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Quick to setup... and 60 hours to calibrate... egggh. Should have bought a kit.

Getting closer. Will do a full run tomorrow, then I have to print a spool winding jig.

   

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Well,power to  the coil would be calculated by using the voltage value of the cap x the current value flowing through CVR2. But because CVR1 and the cap are considered part of the circuit,then we are calculating P/in by voltage across the power supply x current through CVR1

Wouldnt we want to use the voltage of the coil and the current of cvr2 to measure the power to the coil?

Mags
   

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Wouldnt we want to use the voltage of the coil and the current of cvr2 to measure the power to the coil?

Mags

Yes we would


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Quick to setup... and 60 hours to calibrate... egggh. Should have bought a kit.

Getting closer. Will do a full run tomorrow, then I have to print a spool winding jig.

Well,I've never used a printer before,and i am now printing near perfect prints.

This el cheapo printer dose an excellent job when all the parameters are set correctly in cura  O0


Brad


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Quick to setup... and 60 hours to calibrate... egggh. Should have bought a kit.

Getting closer. Will do a full run tomorrow, then I have to print a spool winding jig.

Hey Jim
If i give you a couple of pictures and dimentions,can you draw up and make a file to print out the parts?,as im yet to learn that stuff.


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Hey Jim
If i give you a couple of pictures and dimentions,can you draw up and make a file to print out the parts?,as im yet to learn that stuff.
of course.  When you setup a tinkercad account,  I can share and you can edit your own version. I had Y axis creep, Z motors out of sync, didn't realise that after I'd leveled the bed 10,000 times., and a stuffed nozzle I had to replace.  Cable management was also an issue so I'll printing some brackets for that.
   

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of course.  When you setup a tinkercad account,  I can share and you can edit your own version. I had Y axis creep, Z motors out of sync, didn't realise that after I'd leveled the bed 10,000 times., and a stuffed nozzle I had to replace.  Cable management was also an issue so I'll printing some brackets for that.

Is tinkercad the program you use to draw up your prints ?


Brad


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Is tinkercad the program you use to draw up your prints ?


Brad
Tinkercad is for design with it's own editing environment. You export an stl file of your model and get it ready for your printer in Cura.
   

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Tinkercad is for design with it's own editing environment. You export an stl file of your model and get it ready for your printer in Cura.

So,design on tinkercad. Then save as stl file.Then import to cura,make changes to settings as desired ,then save to card and print ?.


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of course.  When you setup a tinkercad account,  I can share and you can edit your own version. I had Y axis creep, Z motors out of sync, didn't realise that after I'd leveled the bed 10,000 times., and a stuffed nozzle I had to replace.  Cable management was also an issue so I'll printing some brackets for that.

OK,below is a couple of pictures of the bits i have to print,along with a drawing showing the sizes.
Is this enough info ?


Brad.


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Yep I reckon I'm capable of that.
Maybe one more pic so I can see the depth of the 5mm lug.
   

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Yep I reckon I'm capable of that.

 O0 O0 O0

Well this will be my first paying print job  ;)

These bits would cost the boss $23.00 each from the manufacture,so i said i would do them for $10.00 each.
Need four of them,so thats 2 more rolls of PLA  ;D


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Yep I reckon I'm capable of that.
Maybe one more pic so I can see the depth of the 5mm lug.

I dont have anymore pics
Bits are round,so widest part of the lug is 5mm
It would look like a woodruff key from top looking down.


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Top looking down pic of lug

The one in the actual pic is slightly damaged,and so leans out a bit.\But should be vertical


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Here you go.https://www.tinkercad.com/things/lWWJOSfbFlb-tinmans-thingy

Bloody hell Jim,that was fast  O0
Thank you very much.

I just had a quick go on tinkercad,and have a cylinder printing ATM--but couldnt figure out how to put the angle and lug on it.

Cheers


Brad


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Bloody hell Jim,that was fast  O0
Thank you very much.

I just had a quick go on tinkercad,and have a cylinder printing ATM--but couldnt figure out how to put the angle and lug on it.

Cheers


Brad

I surprised myself actually. I used a cylinder, the rooftop triangle in "hole" mode then chopped off the waste with a cube hole, then grouped it all together. You can ungroup that and see the pieces. edit. and another cylinder in the the base as a hole.
   

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First one done Jim.
Worked out a treat  O0
3 more on the go now.

Oh,and an RC prop i scaled up and printed last night.
This one is for the 2 meter solar boat  O0



Brad


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Ha sweet. I'm getting stringy prints again witht the filament I'm using and need to do some more work on the z motors as they wander 4mm out over a few hours of use. I don't like the threads peaking through on the rotor so I'll see if I can tidy the model up a bit.
   

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Ha sweet. I'm getting stringy prints again witht the filament I'm using and need to do some more work on the z motors as they wander 4mm out over a few hours of use. I don't like the threads peaking through on the rotor so I'll see if I can tidy the model up a bit.

What printer did you get Jim?.

Im just using the cheap $18.00 filament from ebay,and seems to work just fine-so far.

Perhaps we should open a 3D printer thread , so we have somewhere to share all this 3D printing stuff?.


Brad


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Ha sweet. I'm getting stringy prints again witht the filament I'm using and need to do some more work on the z motors as they wander 4mm out over a few hours of use. I don't like the threads peaking through on the rotor so I'll see if I can tidy the model up a bit.

Hey Jim

Have you tried using retraction?

Mags
   

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Hey Jim

Have you tried using retraction?

Mags
Yeah. I think my problem is the right z axis going out of sync, so bed leveling goes to shit and the filament doesn't lay down properly. Lot's of extruder clicking as well. I got the Anet E12 Brad. Build volume of 300x300x 400. I think a thread would be good. I'm a big fan of this iron PLA. I'm wondering if we could produce a structure that would minimise eddy currents with max permeability. Seems to behave like ferrite but obviously not in the heat dept. I will be running some side by side tests of ferrite vs iron PLA. Have not got a protocol for them yet though.
   

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Yeah. I think my problem is the right z axis going out of sync, so bed leveling goes to shit and the filament doesn't lay down properly. Lot's of extruder clicking as well. I got the Anet E12 Brad. Build volume of 300x300x 400. I think a thread would be good. I'm a big fan of this iron PLA. I'm wondering if we could produce a structure that would minimise eddy currents with max permeability. Seems to behave like ferrite but obviously not in the heat dept. I will be running some side by side tests of ferrite vs iron PLA. Have not got a protocol for them yet though.

Hey Jim

I have started a 3d printing thread.
Perhaps repost your Z axis problem there,as i have a fix for that.


Brad


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