Help needed with SG screen problem.

[TinMan]

Ok,as most of you will know,i bought a new Atten SG less than a year ago.Last time i used it(a couple of months ago),all was fine.Tonight i went to do some testing with pulsing an LED at high frequencies,and the pic bellow shows what i see on my screen now. So last time used-was all fine--two months later-it's RS.It is housed in a clean dry enviroment(the lab),along with all my other stuff.
So what has gone wrong here?.
Any help would be much appreciated.

[BEP]

The failure appears to be between the video controller and display. If so, there isn't much you could have done to cause this problem.
This type of failure is very common with these Chinese knock-offs.

Still in warranty? 

[TinMan]

The failure appears to be between the video controller and display. If so, there isn't much you could have done to cause this problem.
This type of failure is very common with these Chinese knock-offs.

Still in warranty? 

Only 6-7 months old.But bought from ebay. I know things pass out while being used,but to be fine when last used,and RS when next switched on seems a bit odd. It wouldnt have done 10 hours yet.

[Chet K]

Brad
does a google search turn up other owners with the same problem?

thx

Chet

[TinMan]

Brad
does a google search turn up other owners with the same problem?

thx

Chet

Not that i can find Chet.

[ion]

If you were exploding any HHO gas or discharged a large HV capacitor into a low inductance coil in the area it is possible the EMP took out a sensitive mosfet chip. Even playing with a Tesla Coil near equipment can build up destructive charge that can take out a mosfet part.

I have seen equipment failure from EMP on my bench. I don't do that kind of stuff near my good equipment anymore, having lost an unconnected Fluke DMM and a HP scope.

A screened room or box is a good idea if you intend to play with the HHO stuff or other impulse discharges near sensitive equipment.

Of course, the other suggestions are also very valid.

[Peterae]

Try Technical.
Look for diagram.
Make sure it is totally dry.
Try tapping for Dry joints.
Look for loose plug between screen and main board.
See if it's possible to do a E2prom check for corrupted data.
Do a factory reset.

To me it looks like a main micro software corruption, maybe a new bios/firmware is uploadable?

[ion]

Try Technical.
Look for diagram.
Make sure it is totally dry.
Try tapping for Dry joints.
Look for loose plug between screen and main board.
See if it's possible to do a E2prom check for corrupted data.
Do a factory reset.

To me it looks like a main micro software corruption, maybe a new bios/firmware is uploadable?

The firmware reload / factory reset is an excellent idea and probably a best first step.

[TinMan]

Thanks guys
I wil try a factory reset first,and if that fail's,then i will take it appart,and check all the ribbon cable conection's.

As far as any high voltage experiments go and HHO explosion's-they are all carried out about 3 meter's away,and very low in power.I doubt this is the problem,and im leaning more toward condensation dammage.Seems to have happened since we had our first decent rain for the year,and that was followed by a few hot day's,and crisp cold morning's.

We shall see how we go.

[BEP]

If you do wind up taking it apart.....

Make real sure there is no evidence of past liquid or moisture damage or remaining residue. It would be a good idea to use a strong magnifying glass.

Less likely but it does happen.... Check all the electrolytic capacitors for signs of deformation/swelling or lifting from the solder pads. I've seen the lower quality surface mounted electrolytics swell or pop after just a few weeks of setting once power is applied.

Judging by the display pic I would say there are a couple of data bit channels failing between either between the video processor and display or between the main processor and video processor - depends upon overall design.

The majority of functions may be housed on one main chip. If so, I hope a firmware re-flash will do it.

[TinMan]

Hi Guy's

Good new's-i managed to get the SG screen up and running again. Seem's the white ribbon cable had a bad conection(pictured below. Gave it a bit of a wriggle,and the screen came back to almost normal. So have ordered a tin of terminal cleaner used to clean circuit board conection's,and i think this should get it back to 100%.

Thanks for the help guy's-im a happy man now lol.

[Peterae]

Fantastic, may also have been a little bit of damp that tarnished a connection, which can be kept at bay with a carefull spray of switch cleaner or WD40

[Slider2732]

A pencil eraser is also another good trick on the contacts.
Works on memory sticks for inside PC's, where static discharge from the eraser would be expected to turn up on those if anything.
Fixed my own PC last week doing that, returned 2 bad sticks to operation...I use it a lot with arcade game circuit boards and game console cartridges.

[Peterae]

I use it a lot with arcade game circuit boards and game console cartridges.
   

Hi Slider
Indeed, we live in a throw away society these days, many would have just binned the SG, it's always worth trying things 

[Slider2732]

Aye and some of us fellas pick up those throw away's for parts salvage  

Clean the traces, check the caps (especially near heatsinks as that's the built in obsolescence), check the diodes, find the now missing screw and replace the one that always strips itself when opening the thing up.