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Author Topic: Georgia Shop Technicians Ran Briggs Mower Engine ONLY Water In Carburetor 2008  (Read 13267 times)
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Posts: 121

Nathren and the 3 tech people in Georgia , 2005-2019, used the brand name (Power On Board), for the 3 types of inverters they used.  750Watt, 400Watt and I just ordered the other one called 150W as the plug in types for cigarette lighter.( DC to 120v AC) The small one may be important because,, with the outer plastic casing removed, The switching transistor circuit would FIT INSIDE the plastic deli tub on side of Briggs 18HP. Remember, 100 volts is also required to add to the low voltage main power and 6-10 amps, as going to spark plug along with the high voltage. There is a starting mode where flywheel turns slowly, and engine idling mode at faster RPMS. At both modes , the 100v is required and as DC with bridge rectification. Series current limiter resistor also put in, as it is not the main power source.
 My other idea was to hook up a tiny PC Board type miniature relay with 2 sets of contacts, with 12v DC coil, to act as a vibrator with capacitor added. Nathren had said in the web forum, that there was no capacitor in his circuit! He however, being non-technical person , may have meant "condenser" , as a play on words! Sen me your comments and questions. I will try to keep you updated.
   
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The 2 insulated wires used in the S1R coils assembly were taken by Nathren from a used harness of riding lawn mower chassis. This is the exact same. I know, since I bought the Briggs harness for reference. #14 gauge insulated stranded wires as red and Gray. He even mounted a USED steel nail, as it was bent. (see photo). My contention is still, that the joint on the S1r coils had 3 wires together. When Nathren tore off the 3rd wire to take unit in house for picture, he used knife instead of proper "wire stripper cutter". The proper tool makes a clean straight cut, not leaving frayed copper wire ends exposed. You must refer again - see-  the blow-up photo and see the angle BACKWARDS of "folded" Gray + red colored wires. The 3rd one sticks straight out frayed . The thickness of the tape wrapping is also too large also for just 2 wires. When the other take apart video started , he placed unit on table , as same one with BENT nail. The joint was changed beforehand , so as the public would not see the 3rd stub wire fall out during the take apart video.

The other notion had to do with him saying that the Inverter box could not be used with the S1r coils. It would just bog down and quit. That there assumes he had already tested the Inverter on the Briggs engine. He just LEFT the Inverter disconnected and the extension cord ,in the background of the 2 videos , instead of removing them before hand. The brown extension cord as a "Y" is also there connected to ground. The cord would act as a very LONG wire when you bridge together the male plug end with wire jumper or metal piece. I spent a very long time on this stuff. This hook up with extension cord is same as was used on all the car engines. Return line direct to ground under spark plug, not through an engine casting. - Helps with the time in milliseconds and lower resistance.
   
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Posts: 121
the several statements made by Nathren and Nathren's son Nathren, is that all earlier CONVERTED car engines were readjusted for timing to  A T D C   to about negative 34 degrees , as that approximate point allowed the engines to run smoother and  provided water vapor pressure as a secondary force on piston, as generated at the lower end of piston travel. On the 18HP mower engine , the 13 turns wire over steel core section WITH the cable,  as electromagnet provided magnetic field on the high volts cable and caused the spark time to be extended in milliseconds. He said to add more or less turns , so as to get the best setting for running engine. My own improvement design over his S1R9A9M9 coils assembly was to make the adjustment variable by varying amount of core under #14 wire + cable, as a pull handle. (Like turning loosened distributor on car engine) Hydrogen gas used in standard engine requires way late timing . I also increased the number of turns as per ratio change required, when changing from original 10 A current to 6 A current, to maintain the same magnetic field level. . Car engines are 4 cycle as well as the Briggs engine, but it has waste spark cycle that does no harm to a running engine.
Each engine will run slightly different and a blanket statement cannot be made, as they all will require adjustment in different timing points. Nathren had made statement as to the available special degrees flywheel keys as used for different timing on Briggs engines. They all , however, are only for the small Briggs animal racing engine flywheels. I don't think he knew that. The Georgia technicians did not modify Briggs factory timing, other than adding magnetic field. I just assumed they were too lazy to machine a curved aluminum , slotted, mounting plate for Magnetron, as for being adjustable timing thereafter with screws and nuts repositioning.
I am presently testing my latest S1R coils as 10kv cable included, rather than bare wire or insulated hook up wire, or 30Kv cable,  so as for getting a constant recurring 100v leakage transfer without shorting. The wooden flywheel arrangement with Briggs ignition works well with series inductor coil and diodes. Later, I will blend in DC current to spark plug with water solution and protective diodes section. The water solution presents ohms resistance and would raise up the input voltage required, as also tiny electrodes.

 One of the original web forum paragraphs by Nathren , said in broken words, that there were other parts than the S1R coils in the plastic tub on side of mower engine!!!!!!! This was when he and son stopped saying anything more their set up as too much attention was received, and non-knowledgeable people had gotten hurt trying to duplicate his engine set up.
 
When the man, "Smack ",  showed up, at his property after 1000 miles driving, the episode was on video tape and we could see what was going on. The wiring on failed running 18HP was not done the same as during the 2 successful You tube videos of 2008.

The Nathren back porch engine test was wrong also, as he was attempting to run engine with S1R coil as in induction type mode,- not with current output going direct to spark plug as needed. In one of the published answers to people's questions, way back in time, he said the output 12v current wire WAS CONNECTED to spark plug . (not repeated again)
   
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Posts: 121

The only way to increase the high volts of lawnmower Magnetron ignition coil, is to bolt on another piece of laminations with a wire coil. The output of 1st secondary will be added to the next coil as an extension. The same magnetic flux is there, same time. There are differences in ignitions of the past . Some have higher secondary Henry inductance and ohms resistance, meaning there would be slightly higher output ignition volts. It is way less costly to experiment with small engines , but they need 24kv minimum for plasma path for amperage to pass, and must be in milliseconds time, not microseconds as in C D I.
A much more involved method is a second, opposite pole magnet put on flywheel next to other one with an opposite balancing lead weight. The dual magnetos would make AC into primary of the "old" style plain transformer type ignition . The secondary side AC generated could then use the diode and capacitor voltage doubler. The STENS brand aftermarket trigger modules work with either polarity ignitions. 2 blocking diodes would also be needed.
A man on You tube video tests his Biggs Magnetrons coils on bench with AC activated coils on old shaver laminations mounted next to the ignition laminations. The transposing magnetic flux runs the main ignition coil for spark. (trigger not tested)
 
   
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Posts: 121
2008 S1R9A9M9 Georgia Water Engine
 
I have some more tech data for you to consume. See also sheet Inverter output described by A I.
I finally figured out why the green 400watt Inverter was not used. It was used OK on all previous car engines. Statement said it bogged down and quit as the attempt on operating Briggs 18HP. The You tube videos showed unit in background only,  unconnected with clips on ground. It was placed there to mislead public. The engine started and ran in both videos. Previous MULTI CYLINDERS engines had used majority of wattage from 400W Inverter. The one cylinder mower engine required less watts power. The tech people used the brand power on board for 750W and 400W inverters. A  MUCH SMALLER SIZE INVERTER FOR 110V AC WAS PURCHASED JUST FOR THE VIDEOS.  The way "small" box fits in rear hole of cement block during the demonstrations. The 400W box does not!! The engine vertical shaft is in same hole rotating with great clearance from box.  (box 3.3" X 3.3"300Watts)  (They could of put the larger Inverter box in depression at ground level with cement block on top.) The demonstrations were  keeping people from knowing all. Parts were not exposed. Parts were purposely kept in sealed plastic tub and also spray painted to keep eyes out. The Inverter pre made, allows the required 100 volts , due to the tiny electrodes of spark plug. The 10 amps initially came from car battery, then once engine running idle, battery removed, then the double alternators took over to run the conversion circuit.
 Dual alternators with just full wave rectification , without voltage regulator, provides higher volts and about 14.5 amps output capability.
Here goes-- The positive battery cable clip touches starter terminal to run starter motor. Separate wire is also there going behind engine through diode. The input to inverter in cement hole, attaches to cathode side of diode. The diode prevents alternator from running starter. The alternator DC runs Inverter also, when battery removed.
The S1R9A9M9 electromagnet provided magnetic field over ignition cable ( bare copper section) to form late timing from zero to about minus 34 degrees. The amps came from battery, then alternator DC at idle speed. Resistor in tub to limit current for S1R coils. The plastic tub connections needed for ground came from the exterior extension cord that was modified for extra long single wire to ground , and jumping the male end plug.
 The S1R coils is 100% on all the time to keep magnetic field at spark plug in-between firings. The power pulses to spark plug is on + off about 34% for ON duty cycle. (Flywheel going around 360 degrees)
Plastic covered tub on side of Briggs engine contains S1r coils electromagnet, resistor, bridge rectifier for dual alternators, bridge rectifier for Inverter output, wire connectors, accessory spark gap, and wire joint putting output amps together with high volts going to modified zero ohms Champion spark plug.
All previous car engines had 2 spark gaps in main circuit. The distributor rotor firing gap and spark plug gap. It helps to insure the plug fires rather than misfire.
Mineral water was used for running mower engine with salt added  that came from creek on the Georgia property.
The dangerous ignition high voltage was on car battery only during the starting mode. (No series diodes protection bank)
I was stalled, hung up , for long time on the 100volts source, power current  means, difference between peak and average current, and higher high ignition volts.
I found it greatly interesting to use the old style large clip clip board with mechanical pencil/eraser, printer blank paper, to form diagrams and notes over long period of time . I have many titled folders on different subjects related to the S1r project.  (half cup of coffee helps)
I will later be working on separate circuit to remove the waste spark cycle of Briggs engine. one and zero up counter IC and reset using Hall Effect sensor.
Your comments will be appreciated.

« Last Edit: 2024-10-28, 22:02:29 by russwr »
   
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Posts: 121
It's my current assumption that the conversion circuit of S1R9A9M9 2008 lawn mower water engine 18HP on You tube videos, had used a hidden "small dimension size" Inverter box, about 300-500watts , that was INSIDE the rear hole of cement block with engine on top . Plenty of clearance also for the vertical rotating crankshaft. The other parts were hidden in sealed, painted plastic tub , hanging on side of engine. we could see. Therefore, the Inverter power source was hidden also, so as after the battery was completely disconnected, the engine conversion circuit ran off of the alternator installed under the flywheel. The Briggs stator of yellow+ yellow wires is capable of 20amps dc current. The ignition only operates during about 34% of flywheel turning, so as the wattage from Inverter box is reduced by 34% also. So as current delivered in DC pulses was 6-7-10 amps DC., The hidden Inverter box was being operated in the upper region called "SURGE current" which these boxes are capable of. The pure sine wave type output  boxes give much higher surge currents, than the modified sine wave type which is square wave pulses waveform  on an oscilloscope. Remember the significance of the very low duty cycle. So now you know. The 400watt green Inverter shown in videos,was not used-, not hooked up,  not because it couldn't run the engine, but because it was too big to hide in cement block. The conversion circuit required about 100 volts and current same time. The other S1R9A9M9 electromagnet provided the magnetic field to change the timing to extend to negative late timing, and also provide required field for the tips of spark plug. The high voltage cable hooked to the heavy current same time as going to the zero ohms spark plug. Hydrogen gas evolved and fired along with generation of water vapor pressure.
7amps X 110v  = 770watts  times .34 duty cycle flywheel usage, = 260 watts or less drawn power , plus the electromagnet current . Both draws are capable of the on board changed alternator. The black+ black wires Briggs alternator is the exact same low ohms as the yellow yellow. Just get the cheapest one. The 500W pure sine wave Inverter is about $40 called LVYUAN painted blue color. from US EBay shipping.    Outer size 3.75" wide by 7.8" depth - IT FITS very loose in cement block, or 300W red LVYUAN 3 1/4" by 3 1/4" size.
   
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Posts: 121


There are options when selecting a replacement ignition coil (Magnetron) for the mower engine. I was interested in changing over to positive high voltage rather than normal negative high voltage. There are a couple reasons. When tinkering with small engine for alternate uses/ fuels, There are high voltage shocks received when connecting parts such as resistor, capacitor, L coil, to engine ground. The spark plug refuses to fire, and bypasses to go up another line such as parts. During that time we get shocks from the engine. Also, when using the original old style Magneto as just a plain transformer before 1982, you can put it upside down on engine bracket and get positive high volts, but at away reduced level. You don't get up to 15kv anymore. The Autotransformers normally have the primary coil hooked directly with secondary side. The full secondary is normally primary + secondary in a negative "mode" Less wire is used in the positive mode.

Now then, there actually is a better way to get positive type high voltage at FULL VALUE VOLTS! If your Briggs engine is a one cylinder type, you can purchase a modern replacement Magnetron with DOUBLE CABLES. The secondary side is not connected with primary. When used on the twin cylinder engines, each spark plug gets different type power. Negative on one side and positive on other cylinder. Also, if you get the most modern type dual cables Magnetron, it will have the better type built in UNIVERSAL type trigger , rather than the Briggs brand trigger. Engine will fire at a lower RPM of flywheel , just like in the "olden days". Just hook the negative cable to ground and the positive cable to spark plug. Compare the photos of armature Magnetrons on Ebay to see the difference.
   
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Posts: 121
 2008 Mower engine ran on salt water.

Closing in on the final conversion electrical circuit as used during the successful demonstrations 18HP Briggs on YouTube. The hand wired S1R9A9M9 electromagnet on 10amps provided magnetic field to spark plug gap and OVER the plug wire to readjust the engine timing to late timing ATDC. The duty cycle of on time was for the current pulse through spark plug of needed 7amps PEAK.

There was a separate Inverter box of about 300watts that provided the current at 110v DC to fire plug. Use was about only 150 watts, due to the low duty cycle. Average value of current on hand meter would be about 2 amps, for the 10amps peak. The box was hidden in rear hole of cement block with engine shaft. (plenty of clearance.) Other parts hidden in sealed plastic tub on side of engine.

The car battery operated starter motor and also the electrical conversion circuit. Battery removed. The modified Briggs alternator with flywheel with the larger type magnets would provide max 20amps as divided between the electromagnet and inverter box primary side. Engine then ran fully on alternator permanent magnets at idle RPM . Can use black + black wires stator or yellow + yellow stator as are both Exact same construction. Hydrogen gas evolved and fired with also water vapor pressure that runs the piston. See S1R9A9M9 videos 1 + 2. Questions?
   
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Posts: 121


My main concern is the Briggs mower engine of 2008. The car conversion circuit was already given and told about the 400W Inverter to 110v AC. There was an absolute need for 100volts to spark plugs. The circuit for all car engines used same Inverter. The drawing showed about 35 Volts DC based on half wave rectification.( About 34% of transformer 110vac output) Power flowed through several diodes and 2 Inductor coils before plugs. (Relays per cylinder) All they did was change away from full wave rectification 110v FOR general public, so circuit would not work. All the rest was OK!

 I had fully determined the interior of vacuumed relay with Inductors as 1.75mh as 21 gauge wire, .6ohm each. Wound 3/4" by 1 3/4" each of (2)

 The lawn mower plastic tub of parts was painted - covered. Therefore, the Briggs 18HP needed a HIDDEN INVERTER BOX as smaller! I measured 300W box as fits in hole of cement block with way clearance for main engine shaft. I already showed you the wires for the Briggs conversion going into and out of plastic tub to spark plug and the source means for a ground wire.

I was wrong about the tap stub extra wire on S1R coils. See.... I can admit it! Only 2 wire ends used, and hooked to ground through resistor as electromagnet only , and on all the time for magnetic field. Separate power from battery, then alternator DC. 12v.

I am presently doing formulas with computer Chatgpt for on time spark plug milliseconds, and duty cycle, as referenced to the total power draw from source alternator as divided between the S1R electromagnet and Inverter 12vdc input. Max 20 amps total, as the Briggs 18HP was self powered by the yellow+yellow wires alternator 12 permanent magnets, hydrogen generated and fired, and water vapor pressure. (Spark plug electrolysis)

 I need you to question me about certain datas related to S1R project so we can be at the same level. Because we are not. Do you understand about the special relays used on cars and unusual way how they were used? THE RELAY SIZE DOES FIT IN THE PLASTIC TUB! Did you see the wires on the Briggs engine? Did you see that only 13 turns of S1R coil is electromagnet because of underneath steel core? The number of turns of core section determines the duty cycle of pulse firing ON TIME. Nathren told us to vary as per best engine setting. You must also see 2 types of Briggs flywheel magnets as large and small regular as seen on Ebay. Mine purchased used as large magnets (more power) from 16HP engine. You can see the difference in size and distance between magnets is different.

I did highly accurate test on the 2 highest rated Briggs plastic Ring stators and they are EXACTLY THE SAME. BLK + BLK wires or Yel + Yel wires. 20amp rated as used with large magnets.
   
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Posts: 121
I'm changing my methodology of hook up to my 12HP mower engine. Instead of designing for full 20A alternator output to run the conversion circuit, I am changing over to bench "power source"

to run main circuit with the under the wooded bench engine vertical shaft for car 52A alternator , belts and pulley, to recharge 12v mower battery. This method fully allows no shorting-

electrical problem of Inverter box ground and battery ground. This is what hindered many people before, and I want a better chance of instant running of water engine when 1st started.

Project has taken too long.

 Return line to Inverter hooks to wire and spring steel retainer clip on bottom of spark plug , just like from Gorgia engines converted. One ohm power resistor in line for use with

oscilloscope to monitor and adjust current flow.The way to do this is with smaller Briggs engine that has flywheel with ALUMINUM ring gear. The matching starter motor will have PLASTIC

16tooth small gear. Starter is mounted  with 2 black nylon plastic 8MM bolts 12mmm long with 2 plastic nylon washers. This insulates starter from engine block fully, when Inverter is

activated. Slight distance change inbetween the 2 gears. Ground cable attaches to starter housing.
 
Method is had by changing old armature Magnetron to the most modern Magnetron with dual cables, modern universal built in trigger , not Briggs type, so that Magnetron is NOT an

autotransformer. (Separate secondary side) The ignition process is self contained without using BATTERY ground, as power is from one magnet on outside of flywheel.
Main power source is PURE SINE WAVE ONLY Inverter similar to Lvyuan 500W Blue box with MORE available SURGE currents, to get 7amp pulses through spark plug. The most common modified sine

wave type boxes do not give much higher surge current. Bridge rectifier and filter capacitor gives proper DC output.

What I'm talking about is the instants when the battery ground is normally at bottom of spark plug, and Inverter power jumps gap and connects with ground within the 0 to 34 degrees ignition

ON TIME, and repeated. This is also why a common boost converter or regular bench power supply can't be used. Inverter only with separate secondary side, they come in high frequency and

also 60 cycles.The 2008 2 videos had the dangerous negative high voltage on the car battery during the starting mode.

The S1R9A9M9 electromagnet allows high volts to go straight through without problem with the 12vDC line. I use 10KV white china cable to stop all shorts along with #16 gauge solid insulated

wire for the 12 + 23 turns, with adjustable pull core for magnetic field inside vinyl tube center. The series adjustable power resistor allows change in input 6A battery current for the

field adjustment. This will change the pulse on time of high voltage so as more contact time of Inverter current with the water solution.   




Photo included today is gadget for testing firing of hydrogen by popping off end PCV cap as press fit. Baking soda/water solution put on plug terminals . The outer ground lug is cut off for

wide gap, and allowing blast to go straight out. Stainless steel marine spark plug is sealed in with epoxy at one end. Ignition white cable return line is screwed to plug base through

plastic shell.
   
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Posts: 121

I wanted you to know that I finally found out what that

frayed/stub wire was for, on that original S1R9A9M9

triple coils assembly. It bugged me for a long time.

The first notion was that of a tap to ground for a

transformer type thing. Not so. A small Inverter box

was hidden in cement block, just as plastic tub was

covered and painted over that contained parts- not

foreyes of the public.

 From the paragraph in the old web forum from Georgia,

there was a reference called the 60 turns coil wire

test on car engine plug wire. The set up caused 

reduction of current on meter when the ignition fired

through the cable. The outer 60T of 20A current reduced

down repeatedly to 12 amps. There was an induced

reactance ohms in the coil that caused less power to

load. This is what happened when S1r coil was first

tested on Briggs engine 2008, using Inverter box.The

tap was for power leading to Inverter primary side

input. About 11amps was needed for Inverter. When

ignition fired, the power was reduced going to

Inverter. The wire was then snipped off, no longer used

and input would then come direct from JOINT of Battery

+ then later alternator stator DC rectified full wave.

The 18HP Briggs had stator of red and blk wire type, so

as called DUAL alternators. Output was 4A DC charger

and 5 amp AC for headlights.When bridge rectifier is

added , the output becomes 15v DC at about 14.8 Amps

capability.Power divided to Sir coils and Inverter. 11A

and 4Amp so as close to 15A total capability. Nathren

said source power needed was about 15amps.
 
The S1r coils was an ELECTROMAGNET to form magnetic

field for ATDC timing change extension and neccessary

field for tips of spark plug. Nathren had said when

engine fired, the magnetic dropped during firing.(way

less current because of increased ohms added to load

resistor.) The 7 turns wire upper section affects the

extended tap wire when it was used.

7 turn 90 degrees winging coil has no iron core.  13T

coil has iron core as S1R9A9M9 electromagnet. The joint

of 2 wires had a stub cut off visible with frayed wires

in the enlarged photo.
   
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Posts: 121
I put together another handmade S1R9A9M9 electromagnet for use with Four amps current. My last other one was for 6 amps with different windings. The now current one is exactly like the original as per unusual winding method and like Megatran, with same original count of turns. Red white and blue just like our flag. It has variable inductance with pull core. Another one of my improvements. Nathren said a set up needed about 15 amps total. That would include the "smaller"  Inverter input 11 Amps + 4 Amps electromagnet. Ohms law step up transformer voltage ratio 1:10 as same as increase of input side power current. This was assuming the dual alternators type was not changed on his 18HP Briggs. He told me directly that his engine DIDN"T HAVE AN ALTERNATOR! All riding lawnmower engines have an alternator. He said he bought it new just for the 2008 videos to make. I saw lots of grime, dirt/dust on it in close up photos from years of use. The dual alternators type with red + black wires with bridge rectifier added to both sides produces about 15 volts DC at about 15 amps max capability.  PEAK current on bench oscilloscope set circuit as 7 amps, with proper resistance in series, with AVERAGE current over full cycle time as about 1.3amps at low duty cycle.     See photo electromagnet.

Later today, I also mounted a new starter motor on project Briggs 12HP engine. It was electrically insulated from engine block with plastic bolts and plastic washers. The battery ground cable mounted onto starter only. Separate needed connections will go on 2 mounted brass bus strips for plus and minus of battery wires power as needed. The Inverter box secondary side firing to spark plug will never burn out as shorted to battery through spark plug ground, as per many other people's previous disasters. The flywheel has proper MATCHING aluminum ring gear, along with proper MATCHING PLASTIC starter motor small gear. Plastic gear during contact cannot make any electrical connection. Verified with ohmmeter.  I'm always pushing forward.

I am also putting together P.W.M. so as can vary the output of Inverter final DC and KEEPING PEAK VOLTAGE THE SAME, while varying the current , wattage, and duty cycle on time. The 100 volts is necessary for the tiny electrodes of zero ohms spark plug. I didn't want to get into capacitor discharges , since they go in the realm of microseconds, not required milliseconds of spark plug.
 Sometime I will rewrite my poor drawings schematic diagram and send copy,  so as you can see my judgments for final circuit. It includes many diodes and 2 Dayton brand modified Inductors for 1.75millihenries. I also have for later tests, the 2 vacuum chambers hand made of magnets, spark gap, diodes and inductors.
   
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Posts: 121
18HP Briggs riding lawnmower Engine ran on water in carb, summer 2008 in Georgia.. See You tube videos 1 + 2. S1R9A9M9. Spark plug electrolysis. Battery supplied temporary current to conversion wires, then battery removed, The alternator under flywheel runs on 12 magnets. About 15 amps total divided up to about 4 amps electromagnet over plug wire, with about 11 amps to inverter box for 110v AC changed to full wave DC. 300W Box hidden in hole of cement block. The plastic tub on side of engine has small parts There was also an inductor about 2millihenry in series with plug. Spark plug Champion with resistor removed for zero ohms resistance. Peak current about 7 amp at about 15% duty cycle on time , which is about 1.2Amp average current on small meter. Flywheel with outer ignition magnet goes around 360 degrees. ATDC past zero for late timing allowed from electromagnet . His 1978 car V8 conversion got 18MPG. Don't allow battery ground and inverter ground to connect. Can insulate starter from casting with plastic bolts and washers. SMALL Hydrogen gas generated along with water vapor pressure to push piston.
   
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Posts: 121
Another few  methods to note regarding increasing existing level of lawn mower high voltage output. Add another complete Magnetron to the left coil mount , with longer screw, so as the iron laminations are bolted to the laminations underneath, for same timing. The flywheel outer magnet will induce magnetism in both cores same time. The first regular output cable hooks to secondary wire of the other, - (not the one to ground) The 2nd cable then becomes the final increased voltage output. The second secondary is an added on secondary winding so as both together becomes a longer wire. Make sure the 2nd unit is facing the right way- there is notation embedded in the epoxy as direction. The pre 1982 Magneto has exposed 4 wires as primary and secondary. -- No embedded solid state trigger. Most ignition coils are called autotransformers with 3 terminals only. (primary hooked internal to secondary) Used armatures- Magnetos and Magnetrons on Ebay for sale.

The other method is to add 12v battery to the "tab" terminal , as part of primary side. The Briggs trigger built in will then short 12v instead of 5-8volts, and release higher than -130 volts to run the secondary side. The Tab terminal is normally on the underneath side of ignition coil as a shut down terminal for the lawn mower. By raising up the primary volts, the Back EMF generated by the shorting, will develop a higher secondary volts to run spark plug. Use diode in series with capacitor with 2nd capacitor hooked to ground. The charged cap will discharge it's voltage into the primary side as the overriding higher volts, than what the magnet induced. So, now you also know why the condenser with points on the old car's distributors was rated for 400-600volts! It wasn't the 12v battery, it was the resonance of L + C together that increased the volts as being used for the secondary side of ignition coil, for the step up effect.

Third method to get higher ignition volts is to add on another complete Magnetron to other side of flywheel activated by the same flywheel magnet. Output energy stored in blue 30KV capacitor that would be put in series with the regular output cable. (2 batteries in series has voltages added together) Extra spark gap needed so as no premature firing of plug. There would be 2 values of gap distances, since cap not wanted to fire until regular spark occurs. The total spark volts is divided up between the 2 spark gaps. 66% of rotating flywheel magnet is unused, useful energy..
   
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