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Author Topic: The Non-Sense Pulse Motor.  (Read 82974 times)

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The 3D printer unboxing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eO7EcDosnCo
oh gawd good luck. Mine is partially assembled. They reckon an hour to get up and running. We will see.
   

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oh gawd good luck. Mine is partially assembled. They reckon an hour to get up and running. We will see.

All done Jim
Only took 4 hours  O0

Now we just have to learn how to use it lol--if it works that is lol


Brad


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Concerning the anomaly found by Tinman about the higher average current through csr2 then through csr1 and to discuss the LTspice simulation of this circuit, i think its better to move to another thread as to not further disrupt this one.

I parked it here for now:
http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=3691.msg71266#msg71266

Thanks,  regards itsu
   
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... .-.. .. -.. . .-.
Can confirm the upgrade to the bed cable. Mine has the single red/black.
But I believe the other issue is the constant movement back and forth of the print bed. I've got gobs of glue on my cable, to spread the forces out backwards from the connection.

That 3D printed part for under the extruder. A tip is to glue it in place. Damn thing has come adrift the odd time over many uses, pushing itself through a print and ruining that print.

A fan on the outside of the power supply is another upgrade, as well as a C shaped filament guide to put at the top of the printer (plenty of those on Thingiverse).
You'll get a major buzz when it prints an upgrade for itself.
Btw, my first print was the Chinese coin example and turned out great, using the white PLA. It's fine for test prints.

Now to watch the build vid.
 O0


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Can confirm the upgrade to the bed cable. Mine has the single red/black.
But I believe the other issue is the constant movement back and forth of the print bed. I've got gobs of glue on my cable, to spread the forces out backwards from the connection.

That 3D printed part for under the extruder. A tip is to glue it in place. Damn thing has come adrift the odd time over many uses, pushing itself through a print and ruining that print.

A fan on the outside of the power supply is another upgrade, as well as a C shaped filament guide to put at the top of the printer (plenty of those on Thingiverse).
You'll get a major buzz when it prints an upgrade for itself.
Btw, my first print was the Chinese coin example and turned out great, using the white PLA. It's fine for test prints.

Now to watch the build vid.
 O0

Yes,a fan is being fitted to both power supply and mother board.


Brad


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... .-.. .. -.. . .-.
The PSU isn't anything fancy, it's the same as an 80's arcade machine brick....not that such info is very useful to most.
But also, an ATX power supply for a PC will work fine, if you ever get any bother from it. 


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   Has anyone tried to print  Jims rotor yet? I did and only got a piece of the side at the start so aborted.
Also, Jim is there a way to orient the spool to have the threads in the vertical top side? Support pieces
are turning out to be a real pain to remove.

thay
   

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   Has anyone tried to print  Jims rotor yet? I did and only got a piece of the side at the start so aborted.
Also, Jim is there a way to orient the spool to have the threads in the vertical top side? Support pieces
are turning out to be a real pain to remove.

thay
I'm not following sorry. Not sure if you mean threads in the rotor vertical on the face instead of side? I've been fighting the good fight with thermistor insulation until my new printer arrives. So I am still yet to print it.
   

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And the build video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GYvSFZ1MGE
Nice build - hope I don't have to buy a tap .
   

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I left the magnet short so as we can slide in a shorter magnet in each end to see what difference it makes during testing.

I am hoping that this design will totally remove all magnetic fields at L2 and L3 during the pulse input.


Brad
Having messed around with coils whilst waiting for a new printer, I'd be very interested in seeing what effect those end magnets may have. Reminds me of one of Luc's experiments with like poles facing at the end of each core.
   
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There are 2 things am a bit stumped on at the moment, the PVC sleeve and the metal tube with a slit.
I was thinking that simple electrical tape would do for the PVC, if it's just a case of shorting to the metal tube. I may well have missed if there is some capacitance/static involved.
A simple 15mm diameter tube seemed like a good idea, with thin walls, as it would allow the overhangs for the solid state coil too.
It printed fine vertically on the Anet A8 at 2mm, using a 'skirt' to stop it falling over.
Have attached the STL and Gcode files...not that it takes more than a minute to do in Tinkercad.



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There are 2 things am a bit stumped on at the moment, the PVC sleeve and the metal tube with a slit.
I was thinking that simple electrical tape would do for the PVC, if it's just a case of shorting to the metal tube. I may well have missed if there is some capacitance/static involved.
A simple 15mm diameter tube seemed like a good idea, with thin walls, as it would allow the overhangs for the solid state coil too.
It printed fine vertically on the Anet A8 at 2mm, using a 'skirt' to stop it falling over.
Have attached the STL and Gcode files...not that it takes more than a minute to do in Tinkercad.

I think the mag and pipe need to be separated enough so that the pipe forms an independent mag field rather than just an extension of the neo's one.
   

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Ok up and powered on the Anet E12. Now to look for software for it. Slider you're using Cura for your Anet?
   

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Ok up and powered on the Anet E12. Now to look for software for it. Slider you're using Cura for your Anet?

Using Slic3r and printing some test pieces. Will do a long run tonight on the rotor.
   

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After a couple of hours tweaking the setting's,and getting to know my machine(learning from scratch here  :D),here is my first test print.

I can believe how well my first attempt turned out--these machines are awesome  O0

Now 35% through building a pyramid  O0,and after a bit more tweaking,it looks even better.


Brad


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After a couple of hours tweaking the setting's,and getting to know my machine(learning from scratch here  :D),here is my first test print.

I can believe how well my first attempt turned out--these machines are awesome  O0

Now 35% through building a pyramid  O0,and after a bit more tweaking,it looks even better.


Brad
Yeah ok the hardest part was the T nuts. I'm still tweaking though. My layer adhesion sux atm. Still working out the software. I'm telling you.. you conceive of something, design it and print it. Custom brackets, bearing holders... but I do also have a kiln here so I will be able to sinter metal prints :)
   

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well that did not go well - looks like Y axis issues.
   

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well that did not go well - looks like Y axis issues.

Yep,id be saying Y (why) as well lol.

Now Jim
I have been trying to print your coil bobbin,and cannot get it to print flat side down.

It either tries to print on it side,or if i rotate it in Cura so as it's the right way up,it wants to print upside down  ???
If i turn it upside down in Cura,it still wants to print upside down  C.C


Brad


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It's not as complicated as it may seem...
In regards to my last post,i have decided to build another coil the same as the one with the magnet core,but with a steel core,and do a side by side comparison.


Brad

I was thinking something similar, but rather than a steel core for comparison, use an air core.

I'm not sure if you've reported your results yet, what did you find with the comparison, and could you try it with an air core as well?
   

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It's not as complicated as it may seem...
Brad, in at least some of your videos, you present the following measurements on your circuit:

~ 500mW(avg) Pin...  O0

~ 2W (rms) "...by the cap to the system..."... >:(





Question: Why are rms computations being used for v(t) x i(t) power measurements?  :o


Try again, and this time use avg[v(t) x i(t)]
   
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Jim - Yep Cura 3.5
3.6 is out but am fine with the older version. They seem to bring a new one out every few weeks, no idea why.

Brad - Congrats. You'll have Zelda rings for the wife and all sorts of stuff printed out, all over the house. Guys who are handy with their hands always take well to these printers. I just considered it a decent learning for how they work, by having to build and tweak.
Your prints look like 0.1mm quality, very nice.
For Jim's spool, I set Cura to print a raft, then add 'Support', 'Everywhere'. Seems to always be WYSIWYG for me. Am not sure why it would flip it.


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Yep,id be saying Y (why) as well lol.

Now Jim
I have been trying to print your coil bobbin,and cannot get it to print flat side down.

It either tries to print on it side,or if i rotate it in Cura so as it's the right way up,it wants to print upside down  ???
If i turn it upside down in Cura,it still wants to print upside down  C.C


Brad
LOL - no sorry that sounds like user error. I print it on it's side as it needs support material to print. If I print upright I have to clean all the threads.
   

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Brad, in at least some of your videos, you present the following measurements on your circuit:

~ 500mW(avg) Pin...  O0

~ 2W (rms) "...by the cap to the system..."... >:(





Question: Why are rms computations being used for v(t) x i(t) power measurements?  :o


Try again, and this time use avg[v(t) x i(t)]

Maybe you missed these ones at 24v

P/in is AVG CVR1 current x 24.1v

P/out from cap is AVG CVR2 current x 24.1v
V is across the cap in both cases.


Now,if CVR1 and C1 were part of the power supply,then there would be no questions asked(see schematic below),as P/in would be 81.2mA @ 24.1v + the small amount of P/in from the FG.
This would be measured at the power supply output.

But because CVR1 and C1 are considered to be part of the circuit,questions are being raised as to how or why power from the cap seems to be greater than power being sent to the cap.


Brad


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