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Author Topic: The Lockridge device  (Read 1304 times)
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Posts: 246
Quote
sucahyo

Ok.


Have you ever try to store the inductive kickback in capacitor and see how large the capacitor need to be to fully capture the inductive kickback?

I mean, would 100uF can capture inductive kickback as good as 10000uF? What about voltage? would 25V rating can captue inductive kickback as good as 2000V rating?

How do you see motor need continuous current, isn't motor naturally need pulsed current?

Quote
mbrownn

Yes many times.

A small capacitor will result in a high voltage and a large capacitor a low voltage, the joules are the same being equal to the supply less ohmic, capacitive and iron losses using a Bedini style collection. Using Gray style collection we have what appears to be no capacitive losses but this is not true. Of course the capacitive losses are about 50% as normal but the difference is we are collecting the input current and the inductive kickback.

With a battery coil and capacitor in series the cap charges to the voltage of the supply and them oscillates a little.

With a battery DIODE coil and capacitor in series the cap jumps well above the supply voltage. it charges up to the supply voltage and then the supply can no longer cause current to flow, this is when the inductor takes over and pushes the current out until an equal number of joules to what the supply gave is expelled from the coil. Double the amount of joules enters the cap but half is lost, the result being a capture rate equal to the supply. Of course in this case the voltage in the cap is higher than the source. (not sure I have explained it well) The net result is there is the same number of joules in the cap as there was in the pulse that charged it so that it appears that there was no loss.

While this was going on, if the coil was a motor, we had the current from the source and the current from the inductive kickback to power our motor. A 35% efficient motor appears to be 70% efficient and a 45% efficient motor appears to be 90%. This is exactly what is happening in PWM on motors we use today so remember when they quote a motor as 90% efficient, it is actually 45% efficient (under 50% duty cycle conditions)

Now remember we have ended up with the same amount of energy available in our cap as we used to pulse the motor with in the first place. We can now use this to pulse the motor for a second time. If a 100% efficient motor was used we would have 200% after the first pulse cycle and 400% after the second. COP of 4 :o

Because our motors and circuits are very inefficient we really end up with a COP of 1.4 or less which when coupled to a standard efficiency generator, with its own losses, results in an output of less than what is required to run the motor.

Now add this circuit to the one I talked about before. Now the theoretical COP could power the motor, the only thing is we have not done it yet and we build and wire up our motors wrong.

Over the last few posts I have told you 2/3rds of what the lockridge is and how it does it. As I said, I have not put all this on the other forums as yet and don't intend to until I have something close to working and can prove the concept. 95% of what I know is on the forums but I need to prove it. If you wish to join me in building such a device and testing it, I will be happy to share it with you. There is a lot of tests to do and concepts to prove before we have it working but I am convinced that I am very close now.

All you need is a four pole universal motor or generator.
   
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Posts: 137

   I was using motor coils. I do have 2 gen coils that are the same. Those I will work with today. trying to position those to get the effect we are looking for.

 Yes I was using 1/2 ac rectified with the variable transformer. i was using dc to rotate trying to get the coils in position to make sure it would spin be fore i used th ac. The generator hums like a regular transformer. But the coils need to be in the right position to get the right effect. If its right on 90 degrees. it dont work properly. So thats what I have to do today is work with positioning the coil ,now that i know not to use the motor coils. spike at 40 amps before it kicks the breaker.

  Im just using the 2 coils as you sugested.-----------Slotting the case where i did was to prove a fact to myself. That it would come out of magnetic lock and that the direction of the winding and rotation above and below the equator is different. So that in itself was quite interesting. Just to to prove to myself.

 So i did learn a lot by doing what I did. Some of the best thing learned while working with this is from the BIG mistakes that I have done. these are for a reason. So even with the mistakes We are moving forward. Tahnks for your patience Curt.

 Someting of interest US pat no. 3325712 i found in my files yesterday.
   
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Posts: 246
The motor power coil wants to be right on 90 degrees but it is the generator coil shoe that gives the torque. Try to take note of the angle of adjustment.

Mistakes are always what we learn the most from.

Yes an interesting patent
   
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Posts: 137

    I worked with the 2 coils this afternoon. These 2 coils are the same. They came out of a golf cart starter generator.I had these all over the place in the starter case today.. The Gen coil 1 (in motor position 90 degrees) The Gen coil 2 in stock position under the positive brush. This close to the best position.---------But at 50 volts G1  input power--G2 is only 15-16.6 volts ac. This is almost the same where ever i put the coils in at. Except when I put G1 in series with the armature, The voltage props down to 11.6 volts ac on G2 coil.


 So I put in the regular motor coil in series with the armature (M1) at 20 volts ac I get 40 volts on GEN COIL1. So the voltage is doubled from m1 to G1.This is good transformer action. But it has to be in series with the armature. I moved them around a little and i lost the voltage increase. So i called it a day.

 The motor coil acts like the primary with less wind and g1 acts like the secondary. So tomorrow sometime im going to put m1 back at 90 degrees and the g1 back under the brush to get this figured out. So I can get it to rotate under load.


Note---using the 2 gen coils doesnt show very good trafo action. Too much on the pri and not enough on the sec. Average 34 volts difference in induction. I thought it maybe almost 1-1 but not even close. I run 12 different tests using those 2 gen coils. Tey were almost the same. I EVEN CHANGED ARMATURES, then the voltage dropped a little.

 Im going to try again tomorrow.
   
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Posts: 137


    ANGLE OF ADJUSTMENNT  ?????????
   
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Posts: 246
How many degrees away from the 0 degree position for the generator coil
   
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Posts: 246
    I worked with the 2 coils this afternoon. These 2 coils are the same. They came out of a golf cart starter generator.I had these all over the place in the starter case today.. The Gen coil 1 (in motor position 90 degrees) The Gen coil 2 in stock position under the positive brush. This close to the best position.---------But at 50 volts G1  input power--G2 is only 15-16.6 volts ac. This is almost the same where ever i put the coils in at. Except when I put G1 in series with the armature, The voltage props down to 11.6 volts ac on G2 coil.

What is the motor speed? Obviously the faster it turns the more the generation.

So I put in the regular motor coil in series with the armature (M1) at 20 volts ac I get 40 volts on GEN COIL1. So the voltage is doubled from m1 to G1.This is good transformer action. But it has to be in series with the armature. I moved them around a little and i lost the voltage increase. So i called it a day.

 The motor coil acts like the primary with less wind and g1 acts like the secondary. So tomorrow sometime im going to put m1 back at 90 degrees and the g1 back under the brush to get this figured out. So I can get it to rotate under load.


Note---using the 2 gen coils doesnt show very good trafo action. Too much on the pri and not enough on the sec. Average 34 volts difference in induction. I thought it maybe almost 1-1 but not even close. I run 12 different tests using those 2 gen coils. Tey were almost the same. I EVEN CHANGED ARMATURES, then the voltage dropped a little.

 Im going to try again tomorrow.

You are getting the idea, the motor field coil and armature coil is the primary. the generator coil is the secondary. If all the coils were the same number of turns and there were no losses then the generator coil would show half the voltage of the input if the armature and motor coils are in series. I believe that if they were in parallel, the voltage would be almost the same but I am not sure as there will be transformer interactions between the motor coils and the armature.

Once we have the generator coil in the position that applies a torque things may change in the transformer action but now we will have a generation action too. Hopefully these actions wont oppose each other.

What is the gap between the field coils and the armature? the smaller this is the better the transformer action.
   
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How many degrees away from the 0 degree position for the generator coil
   
 From my peliminary tests about 20 degrees. Will try to work with that today to pinpoint the closest possible position
   
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Posts: 137


  The motor speed is quite fast. Never checked to be exactly sure. theres more arcing on the negative brush, that I noticed.

  I thought of a couple of things last night to try again with the gen coils. so will try those today. I was hoping for a better reaction from those coils.
  In series with the armatur the voltage does drop some. will recheck this today to rule it out. Going to recheck it in parallel with the armature again with a smaller air gap to see what changes. i was contemplating that yesterday, but never done it. I have the shims already cut all I need to do is put them in.

 From other tests for just motorising, the closer the air gap the more amperage it took to motorise. But using it as induction may make quite a difference.
 
   
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Posts: 246
I await your results :)

The arcing should reduce when you draw a load off the generator coil. The transformer action in a universal motor is known as inductive compensation and this compensation should reduce the arcing
   
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Posts: 246
Quote
sucahyo

Unfortunately I don't have universal motor that I can use. I have a lot of harddisk motor though.

How big is the capacitor required to capture the inductive feedback of 12V source and 1 ohm coil?

"With a battery coil and capacitor in series", I don't understand.

Can you explain it using diagram in the link bellow?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck–boost_converter

Will you use 12Amp diode or something?

Quote
mbrownn

I cant get the link to open, I think they are installing the internet kill switch here.

This circuit shows how we use the capacitor to maximum effect with a coil on a motor. It is a simplified Gray circuit.

http://www.falstad.com/circuit/#%24+1+5.0E-6+1.3241202019156522+38+5.0+50%0A178+512+352+544+352+0+2+2.0E-9+3.4E-321+0.05+1000000.0+0.02+20.0%0Av+512+384+512+400+0+2+100.0+5.0+5.0+0.0+0.5%0Al+320+304+320+352+0+0.01+3.132926126721187%0Ar+512+304+320+304+0+0.25%0Av+512+352+320+352+0+0+40.0+11.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Av+832+448+832+288+0+0+40.0+30.0+0.0+0.0+0.5%0Ac+640+336+640+448+0+1.0E-5+232.4766546761393%0Ad+544+336+640+336+1+0.805904783%0Ad+832+288+544+288+1+0.805904783%0Aw+640+320+640+336+0%0Aw+544+368+544+448+0%0Aw+544+448+640+448+0%0Ad+640+320+544+320+1+0.805904783%0Ar+640+448+832+448+0+0.2%0Ao+5+16+1+291+299.3155353253689+9.765625E-55+0+-1%0Ao+2+16+0+35+320.0+12.8+1+-1%0Ao+2+16+1+291+1197.2621413014756+9.765625E-55+1+-1%0Ao+6+16+0+291+320.0+12.8+2+-1%0Ao+6+16+1+291+1280.0+9.765625E-5+2+-1%0A

The inductor represents our lockridge motor coils, the relay represents a commutator. I don't have the trifilar, transformer and generator circuits in this simplified diagram because I want to prove all these before I release a full circuit.

You can see how the energy from the first pulse is used to power the second. you can also see that the power and voltage are multiplied but the energy in joules remains the same. Recycling the energy in this fashion gives a theoretical COP of 2, the inductive kickback is also 2 which gives us a theoretical 4. Capacitive losses are 50% bringing it down to 2 and using a typical universal motor efficiency of 35% we only have a real COP of 0.7. The rest turns into heat, have you ever noticed how much heat is produced in universal motors.

This is why with this circuit alone you wont get overunity with a motor of less than a true 50% efficiency.

The capacitor size is determined by the inductance of the coils and the supply voltage.

Quote
sucahyo

The link seems to be trimmed by freeforum http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buck–boost_converter

Thanks for the diagram.

Will you use that 100 ohm resistor between source and coil?

Also from that picture, I think the equation of voltage would be:
left over voltage in coil = capacitor + output battery.

So the voltage of capacitor may not reach source voltage.


I think waste of energy happen because the coil is over saturated. But I am not sure if there is a way to prevent coil over saturation. Also if the motor will properly run if we do that. I think the coil should need to be oversaturated for a while to repel the magnet to make the motor turn, this waste energy.

Suppose oversaturation is reached within 1 ON time. the motor need 10 ON to run but we can only get inductive kickback equal to 1 ON. We don't get return energy from the rest 9 ON because that energy is wasted as heat.

We can get COP 2 only if we can make the motor run without oversaturating the coil.

In oversaturation condition, the coil is full and can no longer store more energy. Energy sent to the coil after the coil reach oversaturation will not return.

Quote
mbrownn

Sorry I should have explained the diagram. Everything to the left of the relay is the 12v motor, the inductance of 10mH, ohmic resistance of the coil and BEMF. the resistor to the right of the coil is the internal resistance of the battery. There is no 100ohm resistor.

Agreed but there will be as many joules of energy in the capacitor as was supplied by the pulse from the battery because if the top up from the inductive kickback.

Saturation is a problem but with a commutated motor they accelerate until a balance is reached, the pulses getting shorter and shorter until the motor is at an optimum preventing oversaturation. The next thing is size, the motor produces less power in comparison to what we normally expect from a motor of the same size and uses less power too.

Im giving away another secret now, ITS AN ATTRACTION MOTOR. We want to keep all the flux trapped in the motor circuit so as not to loose anything, attraction is the way to do this. Everything you normally do with a motor, we do the opposite.

The trifila coil will be kept in saturation, this is best explained in the Squires video.
   
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   We have the t-action. From many trial and errors. it is confirmed. I have a couple of things to try on this later today. i want to work out just how close these coils have to be for this to happen and check a few things on the air gap. Will reprt back this evening.

    Somethin for you to think about in the mean time. do you think the load on the secondary has to match the Gen coil. Makes a difference what kind of load is put on the secondary for it to rotate. Load on it armature rotates---------load off it sometimes just verily moves, other times it doesnt move untill load in put on the sec. Be back later.
   
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Posts: 246
I think it has to be a fixed load, what that load will be has to be determined. There will be much trial and error to get the correct settings but at this stage we are testing to confirm the principals. what is the output volts and amps when compared to the input an does it accelerate under load? it sounds as though it does.
   
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Posts: 137

  Depending on where the motor coil is set at. The input volts are run at 20 volts. the amps raise or lower according to where the coil is positioned. From

as low as 17amps to a high of 30 amps. The out put coil again depends on position. from a 1-1 ratio to a 1-2 ratio. 20-20 volts and 20-42volts at the high at 2.42 amps. With a car heater motor on the out put side.

  Yes it does accelerate under load. As the heater motor would increase in rpm the generator would in crease in speed too. But input amps are so high it want to heat up the commutator so fast. That why i was working on adjustment of the two coils today.

 Couldnt get the heater motor to turn. So i kept adjusting coils. guess what forgot to put the diode back in to make the dc heater motor run.

 By the time I figured that out it was late. so will work on it tomorrow some time permitting. Need to check my volt meter on the front end to see if i have that in the right position also.
   
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Posts: 137
   

   For me to get the t-action the motor coil edge has to be just somewhat below the brush center line and the gen coil on the opposite sideof the brush line.

   Need to make some longer slots in the case for sliding the coils back and forth. Works easier that way. Will do some adjusting of the coils tomorrow being i got some of this other stuff out of the way. Doesnt take much movement either way and the output voltage drops down to 1-1.

 The 90 degree position of the motor coil wont work for me so far. Going to try that again tomorrow and also moving the positive brush.
   
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Posts: 246
Lets get this documented, Its an important first step we are taking O0

1) Coil Configuration The motor field and armature coils, are they in series or parallel?

2) your input voltage and current across the motor field coil and what wave form are you using? half wave rectified?

3) motor Field coil position relative to the brushes in degrees, as accurate as you can get.

4) Was your motor field coil a starter coil or a generator coil? maybe guess at the number of turns.

5) Your generator coil, is it the same number of turns as the motor field coil and what is its angle?

6) The volts and amps output

7) try it with a bridge rectifier.

8) Lower your input voltage and repeat the test.

9) repeat the test with lower and higher resistance loads.

I believe you may have proven that the transformer effect and generator effect are additive. This is a biggie, congratulations if it proves to be the case. I can't stress how important this is.

With a lower resistance load the output amps will shoot up, this is exciting.

The acceleration under load is the transformer effect drawing more current through the motor, This is what I expected but was not sure if the generation drag would be able to cancel it out.

To prevent damage try using a lower voltage input

It would be excellent if you could make a video and send it to me

It sounds as though your output may well be AC but it will be shifted more to one side of zero than the other, Great work buddy. Now we need Steve Jones to replicate it, are you listening Steve?

On the acceleration under load, I assume you mean that the motor turns faster with a load on the generator, the question is, does it accelerate again when you slow your heater motor with your hand?

   
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Posts: 137
   
  Going out to work with the coils. So i will have some more answers for us later on today.

 
   
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  Just a few things that are related to the generator experiments.
         
        A-  with the motor rotating and the gen coil in the right place. It only takes 8 volts dc to get the motor rotating and the out put volts go to
             
              42.7 volts dc. The out put volts rise pretty fast, before the generator reaches 1/4 speed. After that the speed will continue to rise, but the
             
             voltage wont go up much higher. Usually hits about 30 volts as the motor starts to get moving then rises to 47 as speed picks up.
         
        B-   Used a fwb to get the 42 volts. other wise it was 14.4 volts dc.
       
        C-   With the generator motorising and the heater motor as a load. if I slow down the heater motor by hand the amps on the input will climb untill
               
              the generator just about stops or the circuit breaker trips. The increase there is abouit 10 amps. So it works like it supposed to.

        D-   Depending on what position the Gen coil is at. the generator  will chatter and hum and growl real loud which defeats the effeciency.

         E- Also the gen coils position and magnetic feild on the pole shoe is what makes it rotate. This when the voltage is the highest. when the motor

             coli is used in rotating the gen the out put voltage is about 1/2. But then the gen coil has to be repositioned. When right 42 volts.

          So it takes some time toget the 2 coils to work together in the best position so each one is aiding the other. Hopefully I can get this

          documented tomorrow.

     
       

       
   
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This all sounds as I expected :D hard to believe it but I thought you would get results like this.

I don't want the motor field coil to be causing rotation as this generates BEMF in the motor field coil and will reduce efficiency and amp flow. We should only use the generator coil to get rotation. I am surprised by the jump from 8v input giving 42.7, I would expect only 16 or so volts. maybe we should load the output until it drops to 16v and then measure the amps. I would also like a scope shot, if possible, of the output compared to the input.

A universal motor is running at its optimum when loaded so that it is only spinning at half the speed of the unloaded motor. In my previous tests it seamed as though I would have to run the lockridge at half speed or less, this is not an ideal situation for a universal motor as the torque drops off rapidly and the motor stalls. With the transformer effect in our motor causing an increase in current under load this may mitigate the drop in torque and we may be able to run the motor in this condition but these torque effects are due to increased BEMF in normal conditions. Our motor is NOT normal and should only produce a small amount of BEMF so maybe we have solved the BEMF problem to some extent.

I still do not fully understand why we have AC of 42v, this is why I need a scope shot.

The effect of loading the output is exactly as expected.

The chattering and humming is the effect of the motor being magnetically locked but gives an Indication of potential torque.

Yes it is the generator coil that gives us the torque

The motor coil needs to be placed in magnetic lock, I think that will mean the brush will be positioned in the middle of the motor coil but it depends upon how the armature was wound. Normal universal motors have their armatures wound with a 90 degree offset, this is why to get out motor coil at 90 degrees we place it in the same position as the brush. Is this what you are seeing?

Don't expect your motor to be running perfectly, remember we haven't rewound the armature yet and flux may be leaking out all over the place.

Use as low an input voltage as you can but aim to get as high an output voltage as you can when compared to the input. I expect the speed to be in the range of 3 to 6000RPM

Excellent work, I wish I was there with you.

   
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Posts: 137
 
   In answer to your question.about the motor coil. The motor coil position is 1/2 way between the commutator segments that the brushes are aligned

    with. this is the 90 degree position against rotation. The center of the feild pole is aligned with the center comm bar between the pos and neg

   brush. Now the interesting thing about that position, If i use that to motorise there or forward a little, it rotates ccw. The closer I get it to the

  pos brush it rotates cw. Just like the earths spins at the north and south pole.---------------I havent moved the the positive brush to check the effects

   yet.----------------I have placed the feild coil right under the stock position of the brush and the gen coil ahead of that. When under load theres so much

  bemf it just about kills the motor. Right under the brush or just before it is the best place for motor rotation, but then output voltage drops off to 1/2.

  The generator in rotation is up right a 5000 rpm. When under load it drops to 2900 rpm. 

   Part of what Im going to do taday is try different loads and record the effects.---------If theres anything else,Ill check back in a few hours.



   
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 Excellent progress and exciting results!    I'm traveling in Missouri - Kansas -Colorado-Utah in the next few days...
Hiwater, are you anywhere near I-70?  would be delighted to meet you.

   
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Excellent progress and exciting results!    I'm traveling in Missouri - Kansas -Colorado-Utah in the next few days...
Hiwater, are you anywhere near I-70?  would be delighted to meet you.


  Northwestern, minnesota.     Along highway no. 2. If ever in Minn. let me know. The results are looking better all the time if we can get to accelerate under load enough to do what it is supposed to do. Thanks for the vote of confidence.
   
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If I understand you correctly, the way you are adjusting the forward and reverse rotation is to do with the motor field coil and the armature. The brush should ideally be set in the half way position between clockwise and anticlockwise. In this position the BEMF will be minimized. Let the generator coil cause the rotation, it should rotate even when there is no load on the generator and only rotate in one direction. I suspect your amp draw will be at its maximum when set like this as there is no BEMF to restrict it.

With this motor field coil position fixed we now adjust the position of the generator field coil so that the rotational torque is at its maximum i.e. maximum speed.

These tests not only help us work out the number of turns required on the generator field coils but the width of the shoes required for the generator.

Remember once we start to pulse this motor the current will go way down on the input.

With the motor set like I have described what is the input volts and amps and what is the output volts and amps? What is the speed?

With a very low input voltage you could try holding the motor shaft to feel for cogging.

Note that on this drawing the powered motor field coil is cross hatched and the brushes are directly in line with it. this is what we want



   
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     Yes most of what you said above is correct. The brush and feild pole are set close to the 90 DEGREE POSITION. Normal stock position is 180 apart

      like in your drawing. which will rotate nicely close to 5000 rpms. But with the gen coil at 180 and moving it back towards the motor coil there is too much drag on the armature when under load. The load will drop the rpms way down. This will happen untill the closer you get to the motor coil. Thats why I put the motor coil in at 90 . then moved the gen coil closer to it. They are both at just about a 90 degree angle apart at this time, untill further testing today.
      I can feel the kick in action of the gen coil when i put a load on it. It does pick up in rpm. But right the motor is turnig about 500 rpms. the way it is set. It draws 31amps at 8 volts dc. out put on the gen coil is any where fron 42 volts dc to 50 volts at about 2,42 amps.
   
       The armature will start rotating at 5.5 volts dc at 8 volts rpm is gaining and so is the output volts untill the breaker kicks out. I will go by your diagram today and work it out and check for results
       
        I did check for cogging befor by hand it pretty strong when the gen feild coil is on the up side of the positive brush with rotation. If need be i can rework that gen coil so it will aid in rotation with a load, but thats the last resort. i dont know how much voltage it would put out or if it would completely cancel ot the magnetic feild on the gen coil. I have one extra set of feild coils. I might try it anyway just to see what happens.
       
   
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Just doing the maths on your input and output figures suggests we need over 50% recovery in our recovery circuit, a bit of a tall order but for now continue testing. Another researcher "Pault" has let me know some information that may reduce drag and believe it or not, it is the trifilar coil. Its like all the parts are starting to come together.

   
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