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Author Topic: TinMans reserch and experiments into free energy devices.  (Read 158718 times)

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Morning gents, I'm about to go to bed.
Here's a video of my blender
http://youtu.be/4tpr1whM-QM
   

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Morning gents, I'm about to go to bed.
Here's a video of my blender
http://youtu.be/4tpr1whM-QM

Dear Jim.

Remember Crocodile Dundee ?   ;)  :)

http://youtu.be/IZiP0JoMub0

Cheers Grum.


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Jim - if you can now change the angle/offset of one of those brushes on the blender motor, your bulb may well light much brighter and rotor speed pick up. Perhaps it's possible to disconnect one input and use another brush on a clip lead through the hole at the side ? That brush (from a crappy non runner thing of your choice lol) could be tried flat, angled, whatever for tests.
The output right now might not light a neon, but would be expected to, with one brush altered.
I have no idea if all this is applicable to Brads running device, because of the slow down, HV output etc...but I do think it to be on the understandings path.

Grum - used to watch the TV series in the 1970's :)
and I quite agree, but only Ned Kelly knows.

As an update - Am still working on speeding up the motor today. It's got half the poles but the speed drop should be able to be bridged somehow.
Pushed, pulled, capacitive coupling, something !

« Last Edit: 2015-07-28, 21:27:59 by Slider2732 »


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 ;D well if you put 40 watts in... ! Nice work mate. Very interesting.
   

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Good idea mate. I'll give it a try tonight after work.
   

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My semi solid state non rotary transformer :) http://youtu.be/wt9HRXtSB3k
   

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Well I have now put magnets in the stator and we are on a role it seems. I'm not posting anything until I have things right, I still have more to do yet, but magnets are a must.

One thing is to put a large cap across the brushes for those who have removed every other commutator connection, because there is a huge flyback causing arcing

regards

Mike 8)


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Jim - Was using the same kind of brushes myself yesterday  8)
Nowhere as good as your result though  O0
The real carbon one would move in the grip of the clip lead jaws, so I just took it out and carried on.

Mike - Tried that too...we're all motoring along in a similar direction. But over here it was just the rotor from something that got taken apart years ago. Pic below, with Dremel motor behind it having similar tests with stator in place.
There only need to be very small magnets on the rotor itself to move it by using another very small magnet at the distance a field coil would be at. To me, that means that at speed, an opposite pole magnet can push a rotor segment past the missing pole section.
It's where to place them...was looking at the actual windings and, at least on that rotor, the windings are 1 section short of covering 180 degrees. Each winding crosses 5 sections of the 12 section rotor.
If a magnet sat on each segment, it would negate the effect of the last. Therefore, there have to be either 1/2 the number or 2 or whatever you motor guru's tell me there should be lol
As it sits now, it has 1 magnet per 4 poles, the thinking being to introduce an asymmetric method to how it runs. Mind you, i did that after watching the 1961 AC motors video on YouTube that someone linked to, where the rotor is shown lagging behind the field coils.
Will certainly try a cap across the brushes again. I was thinking HV types and small electrolytics, but presumably a 'soaker' is needed. As luck would have it, 2x 6800uF 80V were found yesterday, tatty condition so can blow up if they want to  :D



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Hi Mark

The magnets are on the frame at 90 degrees to the field coils, the stronger they are the less input is needed to the rotor.

I need to do a lot of testing, but I'm finding some interesting results and need to investigate more

Regards

Mike 8)


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"All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed, second it is violently opposed, and third, it is accepted as self-evident."
Arthur Schopenhauer, Philosopher, 1788-1860

As a general rule, the most successful person in life is the person that has the best information.
   
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Mike - I see, so to just think of the process with the field coils doing the switching ?
On the Dremel motor, I have magnets on the top and at both sides, all on top of the stator and all of the same face direction. The rotor spins up far more freely and to a much higher speed. Perhaps that is in keeping with your findings,

In TinMan's new project, he mentions the 'every 5' winding of the 12 segments on his air pumps. Thinking about it, 180 degrees would result in no rotation...another penny drop moment with all of this.

One thing learned yesterday, was that as a rotor rotates, the magnetic fields are pushed slightly in the direction of travel. Such that, the brushes won't be at the null point when the motor has run up to speed. It would seem likely that changing the brush placements is an arc reducing method. However, if we reduce the back EMF with circuitry, magnetics, or reuse it, the fields are going to react in a different way. I know that's probably obvious, but new to me :)


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Finally got the dyson going again with the detached rotor segments. Got the lamp as bright as Ive had it for only 5watt input. Tried to reattach the disconnected rotor coils to the untouched com bars but buggered it up on the fine wire that was in the rotor, Grum was right  - Brad must have the patience of Job. Anyway looking forward to the chop phase converter build.
   
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Say Jim, I noted on the other forums' thread that you got it going with 5W loaded and 12W unloaded. Might I enquire as to how ?

Am thinking the chop is a mechanical version of the same and, hopefully containing many pointers to the other...so have begun one here. Bit of a different method, in that i'm using ex printer DC motors and it will be 5V input. But it's far easier to find 2 of the same motors without ruining a good universal motor.
Quite surprising if you know of usual small DC motor construction...these motors have overlapped windings between sections and actual brushes. Just missing the stator coils and laminations. Well, I can wind the coils with the wire from the motor that the 2nd commutator came from. The laminations might be derived from small transformers and shaped, or be omitted in favour of a magnet ring.
One good thing, is that the extra commutator can be rotated for angle, because the end of the shaft has notches that grip.



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Say Jim, I noted on the other forums' thread that you got it going with 5W loaded and 12W unloaded. Might I enquire as to how ?

Am thinking the chop is a mechanical version of the same and, hopefully containing many pointers to the other...so have begun one here. Bit of a different method, in that i'm using ex printer DC motors and it will be 5V input. But it's far easier to find 2 of the same motors without ruining a good universal motor.
Quite surprising if you know of usual small DC motor construction...these motors have overlapped windings between sections and actual brushes. Just missing the stator coils and laminations. Well, I can wind the coils with the wire from the motor that the 2nd commutator came from. The laminations might be derived from small transformers and shaped, or be omitted in favour of a magnet ring.
One good thing, is that the extra commutator can be rotated for angle, because the end of the shaft has notches that grip.



God you must have the hands of a surgeon. I was thinking about a couple of dc motors but after breaking the rotor wire last night I think I'll have a hunt for some of those compressors :) I got the dyson consuming 400ma when loaded but I had to hold the "brushes" which were two bent strips of copper. unloaded it was consuming about 1.1A . SO the modified rotor really lowered the input required and go a nice bright light too.
   
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Very cool and thanks for the info Jim :)

Maybe there are clues to the original motor with what i'm doing, hope so.
This contraption is up and running now, as a DC motor to start with.
Just 1 magnet slightly off center and it runs fine. A variable pot controls speed. Piece of galv steel curves over and supports the magnet.
Those coils on the solder tube are from the donor motor and were its windings, 2 of which have now become the hoped equivalent of stator windings.
Here's something strange, to me at least.
I put an LED across 1 of the coils and had it all over the place for induction tests....only when directly underneath the powering magnet would the LED light ! Even put several slice type neos together as a stack and put them inside or above the coil and nothing happened anywhere...the only action was under that powering magnet !
However, putting the other coil in series (as per 1 side of a universal motor) would see wireless induction from it to the other coil. That will be the switching across the gaps on the commutator...nifty though. The coil itself doesn't seem to affect running much, might need to be doubled or trebled, but even putting it to the side of the motor when running, the other coils LED will still light.
And, putting 2x 1N4148 on the power inputs backwards, delivers > 0.5V of back EMF, as tested with a 1000uF cap. In other words, even at 5V running like this, there's enough to run an oscillator or switch a transistor.
  
Anyroad, next to come up with some type of trigger circuit for the commutator on the other end.
 


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I'm reading that multiple times Mark. You're not doing video at the moment? Anyway here is the dyson at 5 watts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFyzn9CoCDY
   
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Thanks for the vid.
I'd need to rig up a stand/mount of some type, because, same as your demo, some of this stuff needs 2 hands :)
Mind you, I could certainly show the thing running. But it doesn't have any fruity things on the extra commutator yet, so would just be a DC motor turning lol.
The point though, was that induction to the air coil only happens when it is placed exactly under the single motor magnet and nowhere else. Which was surprising. The rebuilding has allowed an exploration of how magnets and coils interact.


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Thanks for the vid.
I'd need to rig up a stand/mount of some type, because, same as your demo, some of this stuff needs 2 hands :)
Mind you, I could certainly show the thing running. But it doesn't have any fruity things on the extra commutator yet, so would just be a DC motor turning lol.
The point though, was that induction to the air coil only happens when it is placed exactly under the single motor magnet and nowhere else. Which was surprising. The rebuilding has allowed an exploration of how magnets and coils interact.


Aint that a hoot.
And yet the guru's(like MileHigh) will tell you that a PM will make no difference to the output power in a transformer setup.
Nice find Mark O0. Make sure you dont just file that find at the back of the shelf-->work out how and why the coil only produces power while under the magnet.


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Quote from: TinMan
Make sure you dont just file that find at the back of the shelf-->work out how and why the coil only produces power while under the magnet.

Aye, excellent suggestion TinMan!  There is indeed an answer
to the question.  When "unexpected" events such as this are
noted the path to greater knowledge beckons.


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Yep, it stumped me lol

Theory at the moment - is that the field lines produced by the rotor segments rotate with the rotor, but the magnet lines are straight, into the rotor. The lines are sheared each time an energised rotor section passes the magnet and so much stronger induction occurs into the coil that sits between.
Edit to add - straight rapidly switched lines of electromagnetic force for induction, not DC or arched that form a tight loop from pole to pole. That's why the LED also lights on the series connected coil in the vid as wireless electricity. Rapid on/off of straight lines.

Have decided to do a video, for Jim mainly as he asked, about this motor and the direction of experiments.
It would seem that it IS useful, for working out what goes on inside universal motors, as well as other types.
A rather obvious thing, to me now, is that series stator coil induction is diminished when a smoothing cap goes on the front end...because it smoothes it out, by going across the whole connected chain. Not a bother when the stator coils are separated from the armature power wires though. Which is exactly the case for the Rotary Transformer  :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xXwVYFnRx8


« Last Edit: 2015-07-31, 20:40:51 by Slider2732 »


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Yep, it stumped me lol

Theory at the moment - is that the field lines produced by the rotor segments rotate with the rotor, but the magnet lines are straight, into the rotor. The lines are sheared each time an energised rotor section passes the magnet and so much stronger induction occurs into the coil that sits between.
Edit to add - straight rapidly switched lines of electromagnetic force for induction, not DC or arched that form a tight loop from pole to pole. That's why the LED also lights on the series connected coil in the vid as wireless electricity. Rapid on/off of straight lines.

Have decided to do a video, for Jim mainly as he asked, about this motor and the direction of experiments.
It would seem that it IS useful, for working out what goes on inside universal motors, as well as other types.
A rather obvious thing, to me now, is that series stator coil induction is diminished when a smoothing cap goes on the front end...because it smoothes it out, by going across the whole connected chain. Not a bother when the stator coils are separated from the armature power wires though. Which is exactly the case for the Rotary Transformer  :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xXwVYFnRx8



That was fantastic. Thank you for taking the time. I understand it now. It reminds of a vid i did a while back but was told at OU that it was nothing and to run along and play.
I've had magnets effect output before on transformers I didn't think that was significant.

This is the vid from a few years back. Showing magnets effecting out put. It was part of the mag resonance discussion.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFyzn9CoCDY
   
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Will take a look at that in a minute Jim :)
ETA: was that an oops moment ? the link goes to your latest upload,


Have just uploaded the next stage in this. To see what sort of output is coming from the induction under the magnet.
As such, an oscillator is now attached to the coil.
It's been found that just 1 diode works better than 2. Only the 1 wire has a diode, a 1N4148, in the positive direction.
At this diddly scale, it seems that a little more current is used without the oscillator attached than with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6wVwQQzjRM
« Last Edit: 2015-08-01, 03:13:28 by Slider2732 »


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Thanks Mark. Nice demo of the power of the just the magnet and no core.. Those rotors arent modified are they? I played with several rotors today but the wiring guages were all a bit to light for my liking. I think it might be quicker if I just go to a spare parts shop.
   

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Jim - As you likely know (now ? lol), nearly all smaller DC motors have 3 commutator sections and the coils are separately individually wound per rotor segment, Mabuchi RF-300 and such. These printer ones are wound the same as universal motors and have 5 sections. I'd have liked there to be 6 sections but ah well. As such though, they are good mini versions of the construction of universals. Nope no mods to the windings, or the commutator yet.
Gauge here is approx 32AWG.
A big part of it, is to be open and airy for quick changes and to need no posh tools to make modifications :) 

TinMan - Ah yes, Mr. Morin and his wonderful contrapticons.
Unfortunately the video is sitting with a black screen and a spinning circle, but I gather from your post under it, that he thinks PWM affects voltage. *smh* as they say.
Funny enough, this morning I was to take an 'It Can Fly' R/C aircraft out to the nearby field for a test flight but the controller doesn't like Ni-MH's. A very kind friend was clearing out his old toy grade stuff and sent me it. Thing being, the system plays notes through the aircraft motor, using the motor as a speaker to notify of throttle changes.
You're quite right to point out, that the PWM changes the pulse duration of a fixed voltage and current. PWM mark/space time interval changes will produce audible tones if they are held for a short duration at audible frequencies to us. Nearly every R/C speed controller emits notes from the motor at power on. I mean, fer cryin out loud, Pulse Width Modulation..it's right there in the name LOL 
Here's 42 seconds of an It Can Fly doing it's funny business with the motor notes, which I presume is what Mr. Morin is getting all confused about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYbWBxrKwOc


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