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Author Topic: The Lockridge device  (Read 1412 times)
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keep doing the comparisons with series and parallel although my gut says it will need to be parallel on the motor. Are you still using an 8v supply and what is the amps?

I still can't figure why the voltage is so high, I was expecting 24v output for an 8v input with the motor in parallel and the gen in parallel. With the motor in parallel and the gen in series I would expect 48v all tests with a small load. Under heavy load I would expect the voltage to drop. There must be something going on that I have not thought about, Scope shots would help me here. With everything in series I thought the voltage would be less than everything in parallel.

If your input is 8v at 30 amps or 240w, being able to power 200+ watts of bulbs is 83% efficient and is a very good efficiency. We are well on target for a self runner, In fact it should not be too difficult if this is the case. I was not expecting this which again tells me I have missed something. The only thing I can think of is that we are generating little or no BEMF in the motor coils and that we have three input coils on our transformer (two motor and one armature) and two on our output. It just does not add up ???

Ill do my best to keep you informed. Just got to figure what I did wrong yesterday to get it back to where I had It before. It kind of suprised me too when the 2 bulbs lit so bright.
   
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When removing power seems like the coils are still loaded because it doesnt slow down like it used too.

I have been thinking about this, After the supply is removed the generator will continue to generate while the armature is spinning provided that the armature coils have an unbroken circuit and it is the generation that causes the rotation. This makes sense to me.

 The question is how is the current still passing through the armature? We have an unmodified armature which is in itself a loop of coils so this could explain it, Its an induction generator that is self exciting.

It may be worth a try to place a large diode across the armature in the opposite direction of the applied current. If this allows the current to flow better, the generation in the power off time will be improved and the motor will spin longer.

A normal generator breaks when it generates, ours accelerates.
   
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This is a discussion I have had with Pault

Hiwater connected the last too coils and ran a test, I believe his input was 8v 30 amps although he did not confirm it, his output was 100+ volts and was able to power 2 110v 100w bulbs at full brightness with the output. with three bulbs on the brightness dropped. If this proves to be the case adding the extra coils improved the efficiency with no increase in loss.

The thing I don't get is the voltage as all the coils are the same. If we put 8v half wave into a 1 to 1 transformer do we get 16v AC on the output? I believe so. But if this is the case and the output coils are in series this would give us 32v, add to that a generated voltage of 8v per coil and we still only have 48v Could 100v be due to a reversed lenz effect?

I have to wait till he updates the results but this is looking promising.

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Hi Mike

That's exciting news.

8V * 30A = 240W (in the non-pulsed DC case).  Doesn't seem to be OU at the moment, unless I'm missing something about the design.

Did he measure the output current?  Spinning armatures induce power-factor considerations - are we seeing an increased voltage at the expense of decreased current?


It's probably time to get me up to speed on the actual design, so that I might discuss it with you more intelligently.  Tell me how Hiwater's thing is built.


I have put some thought into what you've said so far.  See if this is correct:

- Shift the power coils so that when they're "on", the armature is not directly in their flux path.  The armature is attracted to the "on" coils.  As soon as the armature gets close, you shut off the power coils and avoid Lenz.

- You were hinting, with the Tesla device, that the power coils could be turned 90 degrees and wrapped around the "case" to minimize flux cutting.

- How was the "transformer proof" done?  Are you certain you've got 1:1?

- How is the armature wound?  The DC motors I've got seem to have 5 poles.  If I power only one pole, the other four unpowered poles would become secondaries, either 4 separate secondaries, or one 4:1 secondary depending on wiring.  I'm still thinking that the armature, on its own, is a classical transformer - a bunch of coils co-wound onto a common core (Is this stupid? It's late and I'm getting hungry :-).  Then, is there also a induced transformation from the powered-up armature coil to the nearest stator coil(s)?

- 100V sounds like what I was getting in my coil-shorting experiments.  He should check to see if he's got a short :-) :-) :-).  (Seriously, are the brushes making-before-breaking, or something of that ilk?).

pt

Spinning armatures induce power-factor considerations - are we seeing an increased voltage at the expense of decreased current?

Yes

Shift the power coils so that when they're "on", the armature is not directly in their flux path.  The armature is attracted to the "on" coils.  As soon as the armature gets close, you shut off the power coils and avoid Lenz.

Not exactly. The motor coils are placed where they will not cause rotation ie when the fields are in a direct streight line attraction. It is the generator coils that are bending the flux and causing rotation, this is why we get acceleration under load.

You were hinting, with the Tesla device, that the power coils could be turned 90 degrees and wrapped around the "case" to minimize flux cutting.

Yes

How was the "transformer proof" done?

We locked the armature and applied half wave rectification to the motor coils and got AC out of the generator coils.

Are you certain you've got 1:1?

Yes, the motor coils are identical to the generator coils although he may have put the motor coils in parallel and the generator coils in series which would be 1 to 2. You also have to take the armature coils into consideration but that is an unknown.

How is the armature wound?

It is the standard lap winding, this will need to be modified at a later date but we are pushing as far forward as we can with the standard winding

The DC motors I've got seem to have 5 poles.  If I power only one pole, the other four unpowered poles would become secondaries, either 4 separate secondaries, or one 4:1 secondary depending on wiring.  I'm still thinking that the armature, on its own, is a classical transformer - a bunch of coils co-wound onto a common core (Is this stupid? It's late and I'm getting hungry :-).

Yes, you are not stupid. I would have to look at the stator to tell you how to make it work but i am sure it can be done using 4 of the five poles.

Then, is there also a induced transformation from the powered-up armature coil to the nearest stator coil(s)?

I assume so

100V sounds like what I was getting in my coil-shorting experiments.  He should check to see if he's got a short :-) :-) :-).  (Seriously, are the brushes making-before-breaking, or something of that ilk?).

No shorts, the windings are very low resistance but the spikes caused by armature rotation might be an influence.

Glad to see you are thinking about this now, keep referring to the FEMM drawing I gave you, you will see how it works.

Mike
   
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I had some bad news this morning, someone has been in my workshop and stripped the copper wire out of all my motors, transformers, variacs and everything to do with my research. B!@#*!rds The batteries and anything made of aluminum has gone too
   
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I had some bad news this morning, someone has been in my workshop and stripped the copper wire out of all my motors, transformers, variacs and everything to do with my research. B!@#*!rds The batteries and anything made of aluminum has gone too

Mike -- so sorry to hear this!  b****rds is right...  
Let me announce here that I am planning something to bring in funds, much or all of it to be used to support researchers such as you, Les and Slider... who are doing great things IMO, but may need some influx of funds.


I've been thinking about it, and I have quite a lot of things I could put on a web-site right now.
I am writing a book on alt-energy research (which goes back 30+ years for me) -- to be offered now as a "growing book", but to be completed by July 2013.
That is, I will offer "chapters" now and more during the coming months with the goal of being finished next July.
One time charge, thinking of just $15 to make it more freely available to many people I hope.

I think a private forum format would actually work well, so that I could build on different threads -
such as-

0 Brief background on the Team (Steven, Les, Mike, Mark, David)

1Cold fusion history, including Dr Jones' early contributions going back to 1982
2Freedom energy history, going back to Tesla, Moray and Davey
3The BEST freedom energy approaches, and evaluation by the team on the BEST approaches, including the LATEST developments in:

Cold fusion/anomalous excess heat
Davey electrolytic devices
Solid state devices
Motor-generator devices
Torque amplification devices
Quentron device

4Consumer alert section -- warning of alternative energy devices to STAY AWAY from.
5Feedback section

Would really like to do this quickly, e.g. for Christmas presents! I'm checking if it is possible to set up a
"PRIVATE" area in an existing forum where people could simply pay for the e-book by paying for a password?
A password that could only be used by one person  at a time... to inhibit one password being shared by non-payers.
What do you think?
   
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Yes, but living in a third world country, this kind of thing happens. It is the second time it has happened to me.

An interesting Idea and useful too. I don't know that you could get something that contains detailed information about a broad range of devices ready by Christmas, that's a tall order.

Best not to make list devices to stay away from (risk if litigation and possibility of knocking a perfectly good device because of a lack of understanding) better to point out ways to spot the scams and fakes. Keep it positive.

Obviously the Lockridge is not ready yet as we are still trying to eliminate false trails and prove what works. Once we have this thing working I intend to produce some sort of instruction manual to make one. I would be willing to contribute a few principal ideas that show why a self running motor is possible though not the details of the device yet as we have not proved it and things may change.

As for the method of payment and distribution, that is something I know nothing about.

I also think this is going down the route of other free energy researchers and will lead to criticism and detraction as well as people questioning your motives as they have had. So be ready for that.
   
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I had some bad news this morning, someone has been in my workshop and stripped the copper wire out of all my motors, transformers, variacs and everything to do with my research. B!@#*!rds The batteries and anything made of aluminum has gone too

   Sorry to hear about the loss of your equipment. They can remove the equipment ,but they cant remove the knowledge gained. That we still have and its priceless. It could be a major step backwards, but we are not this way. We look at is a Giant leap forward in this technology. There was a reason for this happening. Just like all my setbacks. There is a reason for this. Most of the time its moving us in a different direction and re-evaluating our thinking. So Its still all positive. Yes I would be pretty upset too. With the price of copper some will sell their very own souls to the DEVIL. So who has really lost. Its not us its them the Theives. For they know there own reward. Im sure you feel devistated about what happened. But now is the time to keep pushing forward, this set back is minor BIGGER things are on the horizon. Your friend HIWATER.
   
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I have been thinking about this, After the supply is removed the generator will continue to generate while the armature is spinning provided that the armature coils have an unbroken circuit and it is the generation that causes the rotation. This makes sense to me.

 The question is how is the current still passing through the armature? We have an unmodified armature which is in itself a loop of coils so this could explain it, Its an induction generator that is self exciting.

It may be worth a try to place a large diode across the armature in the opposite direction of the applied current. If this allows the current to flow better, the generation in the power off time will be improved and the motor will spin longer.

A normal generator breaks when it generates, ours accelerates.
  Yes this is puzzeling. I worked on this concept last winter. Running a generator with a 3/4 hp motor. I could only put 1-12 volt bulb on the output feild wire and it would just about stop the generator from being spun with the other motor. So i continued in the process with the generator coils rewiring them in different configurations. Thats How i came up with the winding procedure to make it accelerat under load. When the generaror is driven by a battery as a motor and using the feild coil for power. Then I could get to accelerate under load. NOW-- 2 different scenarios here. ONE the generator being driven by another motor acts differently (like driven by a car engine) NO.2 The generator acts very different as when its is being driven by a car battery as a motor and pulling a load off the feild coil. Either way the magnetic flux has to be going with the rotation. but one is different from the other,because they dont work the same. Residual magnetisin has something to do with it. End result is to get the residual magnetisim polarity of the flux all going all the same way sit it takes very little power to rotate this thing. Still workin on this theory.
   
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First off. Thanks for posting you discussion with Pault. When i first put power to the generator, before it starts to rotate the voltage climbs up to 95 volts. As it starts to turn the voltage drops down as the input voltage comes up. At 8 volts-80 volts out.  At 10volts-90volts. At 15 volts close to a 100 volts. At 20 volts 102-112 volts out. As the input volts increase so does the rpm. These are approximate from what i can remember. The input amps have dropped down to about 27 amps sometimes less. Down to 24 amps. With .79-.88.on the load with the bulbs.

I should have run it and recoreded everythin before I took it apart and put it in the other gen case. The case i was using was for a starter generator case and i think the motor feild pole holes for the feild pole shoes are drilled a little different than with a generator case. What it looks like so far because the motor coils dont line up right with armature slote when the pos brush is supposed to be where it need to be. So that what I need to do to day is to get this back to where I had it before.
 Youre exactly right , the gen coils have to be within less than 1/8 of an inch or this will not work right voltage drops to 1/2. MOVING THEM FROM SIDE TO SIDE CHANGES THE VOLTAGE QUITE A LOT. tHE WAY I HAD IT BEFORE SEMMED LIKE THE MORE POWER YOU PULLED OUT OF THE GEN COILS THE FASTER IT WENT. The more you move the gen coils to high voltage position. The less likely the gen case slots are in the position we think they are in. More testing on this to see if indeed they are where we think they are supposed to be, unless the motor feild pole coils are moved too to get least ampount of input amp draw.Then this changes where the slots are too. all for now need to get to work.
   
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Ah looking at the volts and amps both on the input and output it looks like the efficiency is in the 35 to 50% range, this is what I expected. The power factor thing I don't understand as yet, but Paul's description is what we are getting, a gain in volts at the expense of current. I don't know if this is a good thing or not because it is amps we need to power the motor.

Remember this thing works counter intuitively. I don't think you want to adjust it until it draws the least amps, drawing less amps means we have either more BEMF or the transformer action isn't working as well. Let the current flow and drop the volts input.

I expected that we would have a problem with the armature because of the way it is wound. We should get torque across most of the pole face but because of the type of winding this is reduced. Back to what I said in the last paragraph about BEMF, it is inevitable in the armature but we don't want it in the motor coils.

To get the motor coils in the right position, we have to have them lined up perfectly with the armature coil, the motor will rotate a little like this but only weakly and you will get lots of grunting, groaning and humming from the motor. It is when we put a load on the generator that the motor accelerates up, the bigger the load the faster the speed. So without the generator connected to anything, look for the highest current draw but rotation. Again experimenting is the way to find out.
   
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A small home welding transformer may be good for a power supply. The model that supplies the highest current will have the lowest voltage
   
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A small home welding transformer may be good for a power supply. The model that supplies the highest current will have the lowest voltage
[/quote

 Do you mean like a TIG welder. I have one of those I found in the scrap a few years ago.---------------Another thing i forgot to mention is that the armature builds up charge and when it builds up enough a nice blue spark either arcs across the comm segments somehow and goes back through ground right in to my variac which makes some funny growling noises. Or jumps from the closest armature winding to the negative brush. It does this quite alot when running. Was thinking of putting a wider brush on the negative side to see how it acts when I get it going again. Just some FYI.
Most likley the reason for the other set of brushes. Because theres a lot of power going to waste there.
   
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I think for the testing we want to use a very low voltage to keep the power down, i am just thinking of high current transformers like welding equipment.

I am not sure what is causing the arcing, the motor is a complex transformer in effect, so there may be more interactions than I have thought of, that is why scope shots are important.

We know that the original has extra brushes on the armature, I have always assumed that this is for the collection of inductive kickback from the armature, if the armature is used for switching the device. I have been planning on using an external commutator making this unnecessary, but if there is other actions taking place we need to identify them.
   
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WOW

Just had a 3 hour conversation with erfinder on skype, we just worked out what is going on in your armature. Its coil shorting and it is what is causing the gain in voltage in the output coil. Its very complex and it will be difficult to explain via posts on here, but the basis is this.

A lap wound armature is effectively a loop of coils in a ring. As the commutator moves under the brushes it effectively shorts out one of these coils (actually 2, one under each brush). This has 3 effects

1) The shorted coil has capacitance and so tries to discharge the stored energy across the short, as the resistance is very low a huge current flows in this coil and inductively transfers the energy to our generator coil.

2) During the coil short, it changes the inductance of the whole armature lowering the inductance allowing more current from the supply to pass through the windings charging them up.

3) As the shorted coil opens again the inductive kickback jumps in voltage to pass its remaining current into the whole armature, remember the inductor wants to maintain the same current regardless of Impedance so the voltage jumps up way above the source so that this can happen. At exactly the same time the inductance of the whole armature jumps up causing another inductive kickback trying to maintain the same current so the voltage jumps higher.

The net result is very high voltage in the armature which causes arcing.

This energy is normally dissipated in a compensation coil but because we have a load (Resistance) on our generator coil this does not happen efficiently.

This is why there is a second set of brushes on the armature, to collect this charge before the armature arcs. This charge is then placed in a capacitor across the source line reducing the input.

The key thing here is that the inductors in the armature are charged under a condition where their inductance is low and discharged when the inductance is high. It is another gain in the system

The reason why we have such a high current drain and low efficiency is because:-

a) We have lowered BEMF due to the power coils position, causing a higher current drain.

b) We are pulsing at the frequency of 60hz and not at the frequency of the switching (coil shorting) and not only when the inductance is low therefore lowering efficiency and pumping high voltage into your variac.

To solve this problem we have to commutate the pulses so that they occur at the right time and for the right duration. This explains why the brushes have to be only one commutator segment width for the power going to the armature, to some extent. We need to pulse the motor at the exact time that the short begins and stop the pulse at the exact time the commutator breaks the short. the rest of the time the armature is powered by the inductive kickback.

Man this is complex. This is assuming that the lockridge did indeed work this way and not how I originally thought. If it did not work this way then myself and erfinder have just come up with another way of doing it ;D

For now, we will continue with my original plan as it does not stop us from progressing this new theory, but we need to try and recover this high voltage out of the armature with another set of brushes. I will put some more thought into how we are going to pulse it.

The picture below was created during the discussion, If you want me to go through it with you it would be better to do it on skype.
   
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  I can pretty much understand what you explained. I believe the pulsing is part of the key here to get the right on and off time , so it will work for us.

Just to experiment i put a wide brush on the negative side that covers just about 2 comm segments to see what would happen and moved the positivve brush advanced one segment. it raises the voltage in one gen coil a little over 5 volts. Only had 1 gen coil in for testing. More tests need to be done on that.
Im still working on trying to figure out why I have so much voltage with that other gen case. The case I am using now theres only a combine voltage of 80 volts. A long ways from the 100 volts I had before. Not giving up yet. As soon as I put the coils back in that original case voltage comes uo to about 97-99 volts. but I have that generator case so butchered up i dont want to use it. Theres only about a 1/2 inch on each side holding the case together. Where I had made slots to move ths gen and motor coils back and forth, to check results. So not much left of the case. I have to be able to produce the same results in another gen case So I am going to continue working on that untill I can figure that out for now.

I have been looking at how to put in that other set of brushes in to get close enough to the original set. I dont know why they put the original one in the way they did.. To me there back wards. I think i can swap sides and make enough room. Would be better anyway then they would be resting on the wider part of the brush holder. The way they are now the timing can change during rotation unless its running ccw. Thats another story.

YES this a WOW moment. Theres a lot of things going on on this little motor. Thank GOD you have the wisdom to think this process through. I never realised that there was so many things to learn about motors and generators. Theres a lot of little details that common folks dont look actuially into, because there is no need to. One that I just found out is that one edge of the comm bars is on the shaft center. It may hold true with all the motors, I dont know. Your last post was of great inspiration to me. Thanks and Keep the good work.
   
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have to be able to produce the same results in another gen case So I am going to continue working on that untill I can figure that out for now.

Did you check the air gaps in both the old and new case, It could be that that is giving the voltage difference.


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Thank GOD you have the wisdom to think this process through.Thank GOD you have the wisdom to think this process through.

I don't know about wisdom, but I am very tenacious.

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Your last post was of great inspiration to me.

Thank you for the compliment.

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One that I just found out is that one edge of the comm bars is on the shaft center. It may hold true with all the motors, I dont know.

I am not sure what you mean by this, can you explain better pls?
   
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 Yes, I checked and rechecked the air gaps. What I done last was make sure that each feild pole is the same measurements in thickness. If not i ground them all down to the same size. This way when i use shimms the air gap is the same. The shimms are .010 each. Going to work on this today. Need to put everything back in the original case and try again. So i have a starting point and take my time to try figure this out.
 The one edge of the commutator bar on what i have seen usually lines up with the center if the shaft. That is the leading edge, unless my cummutator is turned a little bit. i probably should check some of the armatures to see if it is the same on the others too.

I was thinking about narrowing up the commutator bars some, But i dont know if it would help in the arc off the brush. Theres quite a pronounced sound when this happens. Seems like it takes a few revolutions for the armature to build up charge for it to do this.
I have through the use of a wide air gap taken power off the gen feild coil and fed it back to the input and the motor would speed up quite a lot. This motor-gen were working is a different situation. Then gen coils gives us a lot of rotation to begin with.
   
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Don't forget to use a magnetic shim material.

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The one edge of the commutator bar on what i have seen usually lines up with the center if the shaft. That is the leading

edge, unless my cummutator is turned a little bit. i probably should check some of the armatures to see if it is the same on the

others too.

I still do not understand.

Do not alter the commutator bars. Does the arc occur in approximately the same position on the armature? If so the second set of

brushes will need to be lined up in this position.

The slots in the case need to be lined up along the case leangth, half way between the coils leaving about half an inch at each end. Are the slots you have for lining upthe pole shoes which goaround the cercumferance alsoonly leaving half an inch?I dont think this will have a huge influence, I'm just trying to picture what you have.

It does not seem that I will get the motor I want so I think I will have to make do with a starter motor. I need to be able to test  what you are doing.
   
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 Commutator bars and shaft.----The one edge of the commutator bar, looking across to the shaft that runs thru the center of the armature looked like to me it was more lined up with the center of the shaft than the other edge of the same comm bar. Could be an illusion. I dont drink either.

My slots in the case do run vertically in between both sets of coils. The slots are 5/16 inch wide. Just enough room so the generator coils are right on the edge.
Ok I wont narrow the comm bars. the arc occurs on the leading edge of the commutator as it comes in contact with the negative brush in cw rotation.

The slots ihave in the case do go around the circumference of the case in line with pole shoe bolt holes. This was the first one i had done so i slotted just about all the way around so i could move the coils to any position I needed. Now that i know more dont have to slot them that much, just enough to move the coils a 1/2 inch either way.

I have 2 gen cases with slots. one with radial slots for moving the coils and one for the regular L/R case inbetween the 2 sets of coils.

No I never thought about having steel shimms, HA, been using aluminum. So back to the drawing board.    The only thing I can figure out so far in the 2 different cases is that the one I have the radial slot in is the one I was getting the 100 volts out of. I have another motor Im going to radially slot and then try the generator coils in. To see if that was the reason. then I can rule it out.
   
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  What kind of old vehicles do you have around there. I can tell you what to look for in generator types. you need 2 of the same though. that way the parts can be transferred more easily. With out too much headache. Also would need an older starter motor for the feild coils and feild poles. Most of those older starters had 4 feild poles in but not all had 4 coils in some had only 2 for light duty use. May be I could send you a couple from ebay. Suppost the shipping woul cost a fortune. Let me know what kind of junk vehicles there is laying around. Should be able to get you going in the right direction.
   
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It is mainly Japanese stuff here but some Korean, there is plenty of four pole starters but I think everything has alternators and not the type of generator you have. There are no tractors, that's what carabow (a kind of water buffalo) are for. Most of the armatures have an odd number of slots whereas we ideally need even. Most of the stuff on the road here was out of a junk yard in japan, including my 30+ year old Suzuki mini truck hehehe

I think you will find shipping expensive, if you do consider it, ask about Balik Bayan boxes, they are cheaper, about 2 feet square and 3 feet high and it is a special price. No weight limit and no customs. its a world wide thing.
   
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Im getting closer to getting this back to where i had it before i took it apart. can light the 3 bulbs now again. Motor wont start rotating untill I put a load on it. Then the speed will increase to just a little over 5000 rpms.

I have to do some adjustments on the coils and brushes to tune it a little to bring the input amps down some. So hopefully I wont mess it up. I put everything back in the original gen case.

I think the biggest problem was i had trouble with one of the generator coils. When I transferred to the other case was that i took the tape off and retaped it. What I think happened it changed the distance the feild polr was from the case. Because the one worked and the other didnt. Yestereday I found some good shim material to put behind the feild pole. Laminations from a transformer. easy to cut to fit. So now the feild poles on the gen coils are in full contact with the case walls. Which makes the bulbs a little brighter.

I got a sb card and a cord for the camera for pictures. So they are coming pretty soon.
I hesitate to tear this one down again to put the coils in to another case. So I might make up another one to duplicate it to use for testing along with this one. At least then I will have the original one.

Found a picture of the lockridge armature that J/B had on the video. never noticed it before but it looks like it could be regressively wound and for a 6 volt positive ground. The windings are wound to the left from the armature slots to the commutator bars. I will have to check it out further.
   
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Be careful of anything that reduces current draw, remember this motor works counter intuitively. Less current draw usually means more BEMF and less efficient transformers. At this stage a lower input voltage may be a better idea.

I think it is time for recovery brushes. Maybe you should post the email I sent you.

If you can do it, keeping your prototypes is an excellent idea.

I think that rotor may be wave wound.
   
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  Well I worked on this project yesterday for quit a while. Through out all the trial and error, i managed to get the voltage back up. The voltage is at 125 volts now at 20 volts in put The 3 bulbs are in fact lite brighter at 10-12 volts than before.

First initial starting the out put voltage jumps to 100 volts before it starts rotating, then it will increase to 112 volts as it starts rotating at about 10 volts in. I did run it quite a long time yesterday untill it started getting too hot. The voltage started dropping off because of the heat.

So i left it untill it cooled down and tried it and the voltage came right back up to 125 volts at 20 volts in. Right im very reluctant to try anthing else on it because i might loose what I have. So I might build another one to experiment with, so I have the original settings on this one for reference.

   The extra set of brushes I can put in for testing because nothing else will be disturbed.

The way i have the motor-generator coil there doesnt seem to be as much arcing off the negative brush now. Ill have to check that out more and get back to you on that. But any way it up and running again.

Ther was a lot on intense thinking when these dc motors and generators were first conceived. That one page theory is running to many pages now. We are figuring just how these m-gs work. With some more time we will get it all figured out.

 I see you are starting to raise some more interest in this project. Very good.

   
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Posts: 246
Yes, I might have someone else to build a motor then we can compare results. It is good that you can keep this first prototype and build a second unit as that then gives us three units that we have figures for.

How many amps are you running at 20v?
   
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