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Author Topic: Dally, Shark & Ruslan workbench  (Read 106453 times)

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Nick what pissed me off on OU when I asked questions regarding JB's vids some Guy didn't like me asking questions  :'( :'(
Here is that video >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYaS9xCeNJE

   AG:  Perhaps it's because you keep changing the subject of what we are dealing with, here, as elsewhere.
   After all these years John never had anything useful to show.
You are always distracting. Look at this, look at that, look at this, look at that...after years you never built this device, just more and more educational and theoretical points of view.
   I will always answer you, if you stay with the current project. But, I prefer no distractions on this thread. Well, maybe just a few...doesn't hurt.
   That was why I stopped posting on OU.com, until just now, when I reposted my UFO thread.
   There are just too many trolls getting paid to flood that site with BS. There can only be one reason for that. What are they afraid of?
That we'll finally hit on it, and spill the beans... As it's just a matter of time. So, they create distractions and such, for as long as possible.
   I would hope that the cat is out of the bag, by 2022, or before.

   NickZ
« Last Edit: 2021-10-30, 18:51:47 by NickZ »
   

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   AG:  Perhaps it's because you keep changing the subject of what we are dealing with, here, as elsewhere.
   After all these years John never had anything useful to show.
You are always distracting. Look at this, look at that, look at this, look at that...after years you never built this device, just more and more educational and theoretical points of view.
   I will always answer you, if you stay with the current project. But, I prefer no distractions on this thread. Well, maybe just a few...doesn't hurt.
   That was why I stopped posting on OU.com, until just now, when I reposted my UFO thread.
   There are just too many trolls getting paid to flood that site with BS. There can only be one reason for that. What are they afraid of?
That we'll finally hit on it, and spill the beans... As it's just a matter of time.

   NickZ

Hmmmmmmm!
   

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   You still don't get it Max:
   When you connect the kacher up also, you are adding more voltage and current (power) to the induction circuit. So the small bulb gets brighter.
Your induction circuit is barely lighting the small bulb, by itself. That is not my imagination, look for yourself.
   The additional brightness comes from the additional input from the Kacher circuit being just ADDED, but not not interacting. The proof of what I'm saying is very important, which is to show the actual interaction at over 300w loads. Since you can't do that, won't do that, you think that what you are seeing is interaction. Maybe you have some interaction, but possibly at less than 50% efficient. Which is less than any power supply, or inverter.
   I had forgotten or did not know that you are using the Tesla coil connected to your induction circuits. Please check some of Geo's Kacher videos, as he CAN show that his Akula type of controlable Kacher can be turned on WITHOUT, the induction circuit needing to be going. Unlike your set up.
After seeing yours and Itsu's results, I don't think that that is the best way to go. As the same TL494 frequency on both induction circuit and Kacher circuit can't be the best match and sync. And, none of the self runners are shown running their Kachers at 500KHz.
I say this more for the other guys, so that they are aware of this, also. As you think that you're ok like that. And won't show even lighting a 100w bulb as the load. I'm not asking to show lighting 600w on 18v, like I have shown. And can do so even without the Kacher on, as there is little interaction at those wattage and draw, for me at this time. Like I mentioned, I'm saying this mostly for the other guys, as you don't believe me, and I don't expect any one to believe what I say. Test it for yourself, to verify. I'm not trying to be a negative ass about this, I'm trying to be real, and I say this because it is what I find to be true. Not just wish full thinking.
   So, if I'm wrong, Please show me how wrong I am. As I'm not partial to any one way of doing things.

   NickZ


NickZ,

What am doing is still in the experimental stage. I know the frequency of 581.4cps is not the best, am just using what's at hand to peruse how stuff work and I am gaining something.

This feasibility study am doing in this device has given me more knowledge on how to improvise when dealing with this device. I intend to use a stranded 2.5mm soon for my grenade coil. Currently, am using solid cable of 2.5mm, the frequency is not naturally too good.  I want a situation where I don't force resonate my Tesla coil as I mentioned I did.

Now, talking about your build;. Your device could barely light those three bulbs. From what am seeing, each is having like 60Volts across them.

I asked you a question and you haven't answered me.
I said how do you gauge your frequency without a scope?

I have earlier said that I am taking my time to work on my device. What you have seen so far is my experiment not the actual thing to come. And I have given clues. I know the smart ones are taking note.

Am still not there yet.

Maxolous.
   

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Frequency, Vibration, Energy



Geo,

Ok, so by varying the push-pull frequency you change the amount of voltage generated by that 28 turn coil on the yoke, thus the amount of DC voltage after rectification.

 

Why would "some frequencies" make either  "white hot arcs" or "go like static lightning"?
I mean its DC now driving the primary of the kacher no AC (frequencies). 
Would it not just be the amount of AC voltage created by the kacher system itself doing that?


My kacher secondary bottom (or base) connection is also connected to ground, and without it the kacher does also not work, but is that not logical?


What does that mean "ionization on grenade" how does it show?, how to measure it?


The stalker circuit i am following does "draw after the bridge not before it!"


The thing that scares me is the amount of power you put into (and thus out) your kacher. 
I did work with a full blown kacher before and it caused all kind of damage to several PC's and measuring equipment, not speaking of the danger of ozone and burns.
If this amount is really needed, then i back off as i won't go there anymore

My (stalker design) kacher runs on 130V DC also, but chopped into 1.2MHz pulses which again are chopped into 24KHz pulses (5 of those 1.2Mhz pulses in it) so perhaps a total duty cycle of 1%
 
Do you think such kacher power is needed for the device to work?

Itsu



Hi Itsu,

Yes by varying the push-pull frequency, the voltage on 28t changes drastically and ofcourse not to forget what caps you use after 28T to
deliver the amount of voltage you want to reach.

To understand how my setup works is varying the freq of pushpull which that makes windows for me to tune then on the kacher board
that will make the streamers or manifestations different as I said that will be white hot arcs or go like static lightning,
it's not only the pushpull freq. it's both combined, srry not to elaborate bit more on it. it all has to work together

To answer your question if such voltage is needed for kacher or tesla coil for to get the device working... well

From all my observations and tests on my bench and everything els seen from Akula/Ruslan/Adrian videos and diagrams.
Show that different inputs of voltage for primary on the tesla coil will indeed Increase or decrease Wattage output of the device,
So 12Vdc will give you a minimum of wattage you created, but go higher will surely give you good output.
In the Akula's diagram you see he uses all up to 60V from the 28T and  on Ruslan files have shown He used @ 150VDC for 4KW system.
I did alot of home work to see what is causing increase or lets say the heart of the device is that.
I have still not seen Higher input voltages as that to primary so these are all what has been tested or seen.

So in short to say to you "Yes , for such power to be put to kacher is for output you desire "


To all;
     
The kacher or Tesla has  the most influence on the amount of output of the device, The beating heart of the device.
Not to forget the inductor ( Driven by 3T coil ) which then accelerates the particles that is doing a series resonance with the amount of  caps,
this part is also determining the output power.
I believe that is where Standing waves have to be achieved.
By my experiences and tuning, that is why there comes a point it did not draw more from the input of the device.

This video is long ago but will show you when I reached that stage, where it does not consume input anymore but only what the device made.
It will use up the wattage it made separately from the input.
in the video almost to the end, you see me a  connecting 500W bulb to it and it drained almost all of the amount of power of which it made
only lighting the filament till where it can.
That area is what is most important to reach, it's tuning basically. If the ground was removed I had very low power or nothing.

It's the only video where Ruslan contacted me letting me know I am close since those days.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1weV296sjHU&ab_channel=GFusionCore



Ok, till here here guyz

 ~Cheers
   

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NickZ,

What am doing is still in the experimental stage. I know the frequency of 581.4cps is not the best, am just using what's at hand to peruse how stuff work and I am gaining something.

This feasibility study am doing in this device has given me more knowledge on how to improvise when dealing with this device. I intend to use a stranded 2.5mm soon for my grenade coil. Currently, am using solid cable of 2.5mm, the frequency is not naturally too good.  I want a situation where I don't force resonate my Tesla coil as I mentioned I did.

Now, talking about your build;. Your device could barely light those three bulbs. From what am seeing, each is having like 60Volts across them.

I asked you a question and you haven't answered me.
I said how do you gauge your frequency without a scope?

I have earlier said that I am taking my time to work on my device. What you have seen so far is my experiment not the actual thing to come. And I have given clues. I know the smart ones are taking note.

Am still not there yet.

Maxolous.

   Max:  I know, no one is "there" yet.  There are no "smart ones", when it come to these type of devices. I am not smart, but I have been at this a long time. And I know most of the quirks with this particular contraption. I was giving unwanted advice, I guess.  I had thought that I might have saved you some time, as I know now at least, what does not work. You still don't. Many have tried, most all have failed. I will never fail, as I will never give up, nor pack it up, and turn in the towel, ever.
   I have previously answered your question concerning how I know the frequencies ranges on my device. As you seam to think that I have no scope.
However, I never said that I have don't have a scope. And you have never watched any of my videos. Or you would see and know that I have two scopes, a signal generator, Power Supply, a couple of 12v, 7ah batteries, one Power supply is for the feed back circuit, etc.  Plus a fully built TopRuslan7 device on my bench.
I hope that I answered your question, this time.

  Concerning dim 200w bulbs... Of course, they look dim. But, I can point somewhere else, and all you'll see it light from those bulbs, as the camera dims out most of the light.  Can you even light one of those 200w bulbs, at all? That is what I'm saying...and then show the actual interaction, as I shown with 600w loads.
   Geo has shown lighting even a 1000w bulb, partially. And partially is better than not at all. Most guys have not been able to do even that much.
And most guys have not gotten past the 300 to 500w output range. Much less a few thousand watt output, like Ruslan has shown. Nobody, that I know, has reached even near to 1000w.
This is not about how much wattage, or how many bulbs one can light,  it's about the interaction showing up as real OU, and being able to self run.
Yes, it's a work in progress. But, most give up before they see the light of, well, you know...the bulbs. And I try to avoid that from happening, if at all possible. |Because, I do care...

   NickZ

 
   

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It's the only video where Ruslan contacted me letting me know I am close since those days.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1weV296sjHU&ab_channel=GFusionCore
What is squealing in this video ?
   

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   Max:  I know, no one is "there" yet.  There are no "smart ones", when it come to these type of devices. I am not smart, but I have been at this a long time. And I know most of the quirks with this particular contraption. I was giving unwanted advice, I guess.  I had thought that I might have saved you some time, as I know now at least, what does not work. You still don't. Many have tried, most all have failed. I will never fail, as I will never give up, nor pack it up, and turn in the towel, ever.
   I have previously answered your question concerning how I know the frequencies ranges on my device. As you seam to think that I have no scope.
However, I never said that I have don't have a scope. And you have never watched any of my videos. Or you would see and know that I have two scopes, a signal generator, Power Supply, a couple of 12v, 7ah batteries, one Power supply is for the feed back circuit, etc.  Plus a fully built TopRuslan7 device on my bench.
I hope that I answered your question, this time.

  Concerning dim 200w bulbs... Of course, they look dim. But, I can point somewhere else, and all you'll see it light from those bulbs, as the camera dims out most of the light.  Can you even light one of those 200w bulbs, at all? That is what I'm saying...and then show the actual interaction, as I shown with 600w loads.
   Geo has shown lighting even a 1000w bulb, partially. And partially is better than not at all. Most guys have not been able to do even that much.
And most guys have not gotten past the 300 to 500w output range. Much less a few thousand watt output, like Ruslan has shown. Nobody, that I know, has reached even near to 1000w.
This is not about how much wattage, or how many bulbs one can light,  it's about the interaction showing up as real OU, and being able to self run.
Yes, it's a work in progress. But, most give up before they see the light of, well, you know...the bulbs. And I try to avoid that from happening, if at all possible. |Because, I do care...

   NickZ

 

NickZ

When am ready you shall see it.

Okay?

Maxolous.
   

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   Max:  I know, no one is "there" yet.  There are no "smart ones", when it come to these type of devices. I am not smart, but I have been at this a long time. And I know most of the quirks with this particular contraption. I was giving unwanted advice, I guess.  I had thought that I might have saved you some time, as I know now at least, what does not work. You still don't. Many have tried, most all have failed. I will never fail, as I will never give up, nor pack it up, and turn in the towel, ever.

My device is still on the making. Am using this little holidays of mine to do all I can for now.

   I have previously answered your question concerning how I know the frequencies ranges on my device. As you seam to think that I have no scope.
However, I never said that I have don't have a scope. And you have never watched any of my videos. Or you would see and know that I have two scopes, a signal generator, Power Supply, a couple of 12v, 7ah batteries, one Power supply is for the feed back circuit, etc.  Plus a fully built TopRuslan7 device on my bench.
I hope that I answered your question, this time.

Good to know.



  Concerning dim 200w bulbs... Of course, they look dim. But, I can point somewhere else, and all you'll see it light from those bulbs, as the camera dims out most of the light.  Can you even light one of those 200w bulbs, at all? That is what I'm saying...and then show the actual interaction, as I shown with 600w loads.
   Geo has shown lighting even a 1000w bulb, partially. And partially is better than not at all. Most guys have not been able to do even that much.
And most guys have not gotten past the 300 to 500w output range. Much less a few thousand watt output, like Ruslan has shown. Nobody, that I know, has reached even near to 1000w.
This is not about how much wattage, or how many bulbs one can light,  it's about the interaction showing up as real OU, and being able to self run.
Yes, it's a work in progress. But, most give up before they see the light of, well, you know...the bulbs. And I try to avoid that from happening, if at all possible. |Because, I do care...

It's high time you improved on your device so that we can always know you for good and make reference to you
   

 
Maxolous
   
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https://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=3926.msg95189#msg95189
Quote
Here is an interesting experiment.
Regards Sil

Quote
Hallo Sil yes i am also very curious about the fish wave

But where do we connect the probe ..  i looked at the schematic you uploaded 2 posts earlier.
And what osciloscope brand and type do you use   .. because some people say the fish wave is due to the scope settings and scope qualities maybe.
And what time base setting do you have when the fish wave is visable on the scope ...
Utopia Now

Quote
Yes and no it's not the scope's function I can asure you of that.

To do the test you first need to find your coils inductance it needs to be  a wave length or a fraction of
it like 1/4 or 1/2 you intend to use.

if it's not forget it.

so you have your coil find its inductane, you know the frequency  of the coil,

now use the series formula to find your tank coil capacitor value, (https://www.electrical4u.com/lc-circuit-analysis/)

stick this in series with your coil put your scope across the coil making sure the 2 earth's are conected to the wire end of the coil

now very slowley ajust the SG to find resonance point.

It's the only way to do it or you will sail over the spot.

Regards Sil

Hallo Sil, I am still trying to understand how to proceed with finding the fish.
The inductance of my Grenade coil is187μH and the inductance of my Inductor coil is 268μH

Quote
so you have your coil find its inductane, you know the frequency  of the coil,

How can I know the frequency, how do you "know" your frequency, how do you determine the freq of your coil.

What frequency ( beat frequency ) does your fish have  and  what is the freq, are the frequencies of the 2 other higher frequencies ( between 10 and 20 or 37 kHZ )

https://youtu.be/4M72kQulGKk?t=218   an example maybe.

Do I have to put the probe on the Grenade and see the fish there  or on the inductor coil.

I would love to understand how to find the fish wave , how to do this.   How can an inductance be a fraction of a wave length(I intend to use)
Quote
to do the test you first need to find your coils inductance it needs to be  a wave length or a fraction of
it like 1/4 or 1/2 you intend to use.

I would be very happy if i can see, find, create the fish wave on my scope.
Regards Utopia Now.
   

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   Well, I was hoping to see some results from Vasik or Itsu, but it looks like they are both just as stuck as I am.
In any case that is why I called Geo to step in, even though he may be just as stuck, as well. Let's see what we can do about that.

  NickZ
   

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https://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=3926.msg95189#msg95189
Hallo Sil, I am still trying to understand how to proceed with finding the fish.
The inductance of my Grenade coil is187μH and the inductance of my Inductor coil is 268μH

How can I know the frequency, how do you "know" your frequency, how do you determine the freq of your coil.

What frequency ( beat frequency ) does your fish have  and  what is the freq, are the frequencies of the 2 other higher frequencies ( between 10 and 20 or 37 kHZ )

https://youtu.be/4M72kQulGKk?t=218   an example maybe.

Do I have to put the probe on the Grenade and see the fish there  or on the inductor coil.

I would love to understand how to find the fish wave , how to do this.   How can an inductance be a fraction of a wave length(I intend to use)
I would be very happy if i can see, find, create the fish wave on my scope.
Regards Utopia Now.
do you mean this? you need to find the spot where that happens a CAPACITOR switch box would be usefull.
   

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Enjoy your trek through life but leave no tracks
What is squealing in this video ?
Could it be the yoke ? he is using thats vibrating ?

Geo, re your video where are the 2 red caps connected in your circuit ?

Sil
   

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   Well, I was hoping to see some results from Vasik or Itsu, but it looks like they are both just as stuck as I am.
In any case that is why I called Geo to step in, even though he may be just as stuck, as well. Let's see what we can do about that.

  NickZ

@NickZ,

Well, it's good to be true. The contraption you are having there is not symmetrical, I watch your video and I realized that you have to retune Everytime you make alteration. That's not good. How long can you do that ,that when you simply add a bulb, you retune. When you remove bulb , you retune. Device don't work that way.

As for me, am practicing by making alterations and studying it effects and at the same time taking notes. What every experimenter needs is to know is how device works or just continue to beat around the bush. Study your device for it is not a conventional one. I am taking my time to do that, at the same time fixing bugs.

NB;  The LC series resonance in this setup is one very important aspect of this device, that is where you likely achieve your standing wave. It is most  important for all builders to have a second potentiometer in series with the main pot. The attached one will be for fine tunning to achieve specific frequency. And at that frequency, you establish your standing wave. When standing wave is achieved, interaction (between IPT &CPT)becomes very easy to achieve.
At this series resonance the tank cct. becomes an acceptor cct. It will continue to accept charges from the CPT(Capacitive Power Transfer) your Tesla antenna hence, the hissing sound you hear. Acceptor circuit becomes a sink.
I believe we shall get there.

Maxolous
   

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Maxolous,

Your observations and your approach are both quite interesting.

The "Standing Wave" is often mentioned with respect to the circuit and with the manifestation of what seems to be OverUnity.

We know that the Tesla Coil is a Standing Wave device, as is any circuit which approximates its principle of operation.

But when the "Standing Wave" in the circuit is spoken of, where precisely does it or should it manifest?

Is it simply the Kacher variant of the Tesla Coil where it manifests, or is it elsewhere within the circuit?

Resonance itself is a Standing Wave so for each resonant element of the circuit it is possible to have there a "standing wave" which may interact with the others coherently, or not.

Is anyone able to explain what sort of Standing Wave is being sought and where it will appear and how it can be detected?


---------------------------
For there is nothing hidden that will not be disclosed, and nothing concealed that will not be known or brought out into the open.
   

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Could it be the yoke ?
Does he have more than one in his device ?
   

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Maxolous,

Your observations and your approach are both quite interesting.

Thanks so much.


The "Standing Wave" is often mentioned with respect to the circuit and with the manifestation of what seems to be OverUnity.
That's quite correct.


We know that the Tesla Coil is a Standing Wave device, as is any circuit which approximates its principle of operation.

But when the "Standing Wave" in the circuit is spoken of, where precisely does it or should it manifest?

The standing wave is best achieved in the LC resonance and it will affect others and to seal it up, when you put on your Tesla, the pulses will pull all them to attention to achieve a unified standing wave.

Is it simply the Kacher variant of the Tesla Coil where it manifests, or is it elsewhere within the circuit?

Everywhere in the circuit all three will be unified or synchronized
Resonance itself is a Standing Wave so for each resonant element of the circuit it is possible to have there a "standing wave" which may interact with the others coherently, or not.

Right!


Is anyone able to explain what sort of Standing Wave is being sought and where it will appear and how it can be detected?

Most folks uses neon to find the nodes mostly along the Tesla coil cum grenade coil.

That's where the travelling wave and returning wave intersects.

Maxolous
   

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Mr Mudped getting the fish wave (packet) is easy maintaining it is difficult as when you draw energy
it goes un stable, any way thanks for the woffal oh well perhaps another ten or twenty years  ;D ;D


Sil
« Last Edit: 2021-10-31, 14:59:43 by AlienGrey »
   

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What is squealing in this video ?


   I thought that we had covered that already.  I had previously mentioned, that what I heard ringing seams to come from the entire device. But, mostly or mainly from the yoke. Once the ringing starts, it seam to cover the entire device. Yet, the ringing frequency is NOT the same as any of the running frequencies. As I can't hear above 11.5KHz, but I can clearly hear the ringing on my device. Without this ringing that I call "Radio Moscow",I know that I'm not in sync, or even close to it. There are two types of this ringing, one comes from the tuning of the grenade, (without the Kacher HV being on), and some call it the "Frying Chicken" sound, and the other ringing is the Radio Moscow sound, that comes when the Kacher is also working, as well.

    No one has really explained the how or why we need standing waves, as there is already the induction, or the lack of it, doing what it normally does. According to muDped we already have those standing waves, as we use a Kacher of Tesla coil. Is that actually true???
Nor has anyone really proven the relation between standing waves, and self running. At least one of us, that is.

   Geo:  The idea with the Kacher, is that it is supposed to INTERFERE with the induction circuit pulses. And should work as a interference circuit.
Not just to add to it, but to disrupt it, instead. So, it makes me wonder as you are suggesting that the higher the voltage/current that the Kacher is provided for, the higher is the output from the grenade. Again, the idea is to disrupt, not just to add power.  Ruslan said that the Kacher does NOT need to be very strong to do it's job. So, what is it? And, how strong is strong enough, is my question. Ruslan may be using 150v on his Kacher, but we don't know the duty cycle settings. Itsu mentioned 1% duty. So, we need 150v input to the kacher,  then reduce the Kacher duty cycle to 1%? 
 
   We should all keep in mind that none of us has has achieved OU, not even close to it on any of these devices, and much less self running.
None of us. So, we can't really say what is really needed, and what is not. As none of us has come even close to OU.

   Geo, did you get the dust, cob webs, and gecko eggs out of your device, yet?

   Max: Take your time, I won't give you any more suggestions that you seam to not want. I was just trying to help... Bad habit... I'll try to control it.

   NickZ
   
   
   
« Last Edit: 2021-10-31, 15:52:20 by NickZ »
   

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NickZ,

Whether you disrupting induction cct.then, there is an additional output or kacher adding to output are all the same thing.

Going by your explanation, disrupting with 1%  to get output also makes sense. Note that 150v you mentioned is just an amplitude while at the other hand duty cycle is a "time" thing. Duty cycle make you know how long you apply the pulse in the full cycle, while the voltage is , how much of this pulse is being applied (magnitude). If you say, disrupting the induction cct and having an additional output, you are technically talking. In the real sense that is what all these are all about.

My induction cct no matter how well tuned and how much DC(duty cycle) you give to it , it can never achieve a voltage level compared to when the Tesla pulses is impinged on it.

Maxolous
   

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What is squealing in this video ?
I thought that we had covered that already. 
With you - yes.
With Geo - no.
   

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   Max:
   I mentioned that as you don't see my point, and don't agree, there is no point for me to say any thing else to you.
   Carry on... With your experiment.

   
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Quote
https://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=3926.msg95189#msg95189
Hallo Sil, I am still trying to understand how to proceed with finding the fish.
The inductance of my Grenade coil is187μH and the inductance of my Inductor coil is 268μH

How can I know the frequency, how do you "know" your frequency, how do you determine the freq of your coil.

What frequency ( beat frequency ) does your fish have  and  what is the freq, are the frequencies of the 2 other higher frequencies ( between 10 and 20 or 37 kHZ )

https://youtu.be/4M72kQulGKk?t=218   an example maybe.

Do I have to put the probe on the Grenade and see the fish there  or on the inductor coil.

I would love to understand how to find the fish wave , how to do this.   How can an inductance be a fraction of a wave length(I intend to use)
I would be very happy if i can see, find, create the fish wave on my scope.
Regards Utopia Now.
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do you mean this? you need to find the spot where that happens a CAPACITOR switch box would be usefull.
Sil ---------------------

Hallo Sil (AlienGrey)  I have many capacitors, probably more than enough, I even have a variable capacitor: 70/2000pF ...  But I have many bigger value capacitors.

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Mr Mudped getting the fish wave (packet) is easy maintaining it is difficult as when you draw energy
it goes un stable, any way thanks for the woffal oh well perhaps another ten or twenty years  ;D ;D
Sil

Hallo Sil I still don`t understand, know  where to put the probe,  In the picture I put letters near the Grenade coil leads ( A, B ) and near the Inductor coil leads (C, D, E) and i named the 2 capacitors ( the 1uF cap: A and the other one capacitor B )
And  do i have to start with a 1uF cap parallel over the Grenade .  I did meassure the inductances of the coil   but How do i proceed.

Regards Utopia Now
   

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Utopia If if you wound the grenade to 37,5 meters and the intuctor winding at 18,75 meters

then you simply tune the 18.75 winding to 10khz and the main grenade to 20khz

To do that it's Amtr Radio stuff  here > https://www.homemade-circuits.com/lc-resonant-frequency-calculator-software/ <

Just entre the frequency for your inductor 10khz and its inductance and it will tell you APROXIMATLY  the capacitanc you need in series for it to get it to tune at that frequency. note if your adding that inductor to something else you might need to
recalculate by adding what ever else your addding.

What could be easyer ?
   
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Utopia If if you wound the grenade to 37,5 meters and the intuctor winding at 18,75 meters

then you simply tune the 18.75 winding to 10khz and the main grenade to 20khz

To do that it's Amtr Radio stuff  here > https://www.homemade-circuits.com/lc-resonant-frequency-calculator-software/ <

Just entre the frequency for your inductor 10khz and its inductance and it will tell you APROXIMATLY  the capacitanc you need in series for it to get it to tune at that frequency. note if your adding that inductor to something else you might need to
recalculate by adding what ever else your addding.

What could be easyer ?

Okay Thank you Sil, Now I am understanding better how to do it.  So i choose 10kHz and 20kHz .
But to have a little clue or guidance from you ?  Can you tell me what frequency does your fish have,  or if it varies  from which to which frequency can i expect de fish wave to show.

And is it correct that i must find the fish wave on the Grenade.

Regards Utopia Now
   

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Okay Thank you Sil, Now I am understanding better how to do it.  So i choose 10kHz and 20kHz .
But to have a little clue or guidance from you ?  Can you tell me what frequency does your fish have,  or if it varies  from which to which frequency can i expect de fish wave to show.

And is it correct that i must find the fish wave on the Grenade.

Regards Utopia Now

   
  Utopia Now: your questions are valid, and important to know, before you start to build something. A proper schematic and video, would help.
However, you are asking questions to a guy that has never built this device, and has never got it working. And he is giving answers on something that he can't really answer, as he has not tested any of that himself. Nor has he tried those frequencies he is giving advice to you on, himself. Nor shown his result from those tests.  That's why he says, what could be easier? Since He has never tried it.  Because if he did then he would see that it's not simple, at all. He just wants some body else to do his building, and testing, instead. 10KHz and 20KHz will not match up. Ask Itsu...why that is so. He will probably say something like, you tune one to the right frequency, but the other one won't stay tuned to the chosen frequency. Logical deductions nor calculated frequencies, don't work on this device. And not one of us actually KNOWS what it takes.
   The only reason that I say what I just mentioned is because we should not be leading guys on, like we KNOW what we are talking about. And I would not want you wasting your time following advice that probably will not work, nor has it ever even been tried, and he is just guessing about it.
So, keep that in mind, if you decide to do that. Remember that I warned you. And if you still end up tuning to the 10 and 20KHz, let us know how it goes.
   We are working on the Stalker type of replication, on this thread. And trying to not mix and match with other builds. As that can get even more confusing. And Stalker has never mentioned tuning to those particular frequencies, himself.

   What I say, is because I've done it, I've shown it, and then I post the observed results therefrom. So, I'm not just guessing about what I have say.

   NickZ

   
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