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2022-01-24, 07:15:16
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Author Topic: Dally, Shark & Ruslan workbench  (Read 85107 times)

Group: Professor
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Verpies, i have some 40 swg with a pack dia of 2.5 mm but it's not individually varnish coated, will it have the same effect ?
No, in Litz wire, the strands need to be individually isolated from each other and twisted in a special way.
   

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NickZ,

I have nothing to hide.
PP tuned to 17.6khz

Grenade naturally res. at 581.4khz

Tesla coil, Forced to res. at 581.4khz

I'm confused how does that work ? if its17600 it has to be a multiple of that number do you mean 580800
by any chance ?  it goes 33 times.
   

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Litz Wire is very useful stuff indeed!

Fortunately, it is not too difficult to make, although the process is time consuming and requires space.

How to make your own Litz Wire.

How to solder Litz Wire.

For Higher than Audio Frequency (RF) Transformer and Coil applications it does make a difference.


---------------------------
For there is nothing hidden that will not be disclosed, and nothing concealed that will not be known or brought out into the open.
   

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NickZ,

I have nothing to hide.
PP tuned to 17.6khz

Grenade naturally res. at 581.4khz

Tesla coil, Forced to res. at 581.4khz

I'm confused how does that work ? if its17600 it has to be a multiple of that number do you mean 580800
by any chance ?  it goes 33 times.

Aliengrey,

Absolutely ,

33 of those cycles riding on one wavelength of PP.

Maxolous.

   

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@NickZ,

Read carefully what I wrote; the 1;1, or 2:1 ratio is the frequency of kacher to grenade while , 1:25 is for that of  push-pull to kacher.

Presently, I have made it 1:33

Regards

@Aliengrey.

Yes, I made it grenade to PP 33:1

maxolous
   

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Gentlemen, I haven't implemented my earthling as NickZ suggested to me , my earthling is not well established yet but whenever rain falls it is so good in output.
It's clear now that I need good earthling.

Maxolous
   

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It's clear now that I need good earthling.
Most of us here need a good earthling except AlienGrey.
   

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What is meant by "earthling" in the context of this thread?


earthling

noun
noun: earthling; plural noun: earthlings

    (in science fiction) a word used by aliens to refer to an inhabitant of the earth.
    "this was perfectly normal earthling behaviour"


Itsu
   

Group: Professor
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What is meant by "earthling" in the context of this thread?
Well, I meant it literally, especially an XX earthling.
...but I think Max meant it as "earthing" or "grounding".
   

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Well, I meant it literally, especially an XX earthling.
...but I think Max meant it as "earthing" or "grounding".

I meant earthing. My glasses are not so good now.

I just realized that I refer to Verpies as Viepies. That's what happens when you click on phone dictionary suggestions without clear vision..
I keep editing.

Regards.

Maxolous
« Last Edit: 2021-10-28, 19:59:47 by Maxolous »
   

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Maxolous we were recently focusing on tuning the katcher  and you were commenting on an instability problem with the coil and the choyce of tuning capacitors used, were they ceramic single layer pulse capacitors by any chance ?

Regards Sil
   

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Maxolous we were recently focusing on tuning the katcher  and you were commenting on an instability problem with the coil and the choyce of tuning capacitors used, were they ceramic single layer pulse capacitors by any chance ?

Regards Sil

I made mention of Polypropylene capacitor , WIMA caps are polypropylene

Maxolous
   

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The brand; Wima is the best. They are made in Germany, they are actually called 'resonance capacitor"

Plastic film capacitors are offered by WIMA in many different versions. The dielectric used constitutes the main distinguished criterion:

Polyester (Mylar) MKS/FKS versions*
Polypropylene MKP/FKP versions*
Polyphenylene-Sulphide SMD-PPS*

*WIMA-types

Maxolous
   

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I have changed my power supply to controllable Tesla transistor from the commercial dc-dc of 50V max to my built 50-150Vdc which is built around IC SG3524 with pwm. I can vary from 50Vdc to 150Vdc . Right now, am using 80Vdc and the output improved with bulb on I can read 230Vdc.

Still unstable because the mixed caps problem is still there and my PP pwm multiturn pot is loosing contact. I need to fix that before turning ON the device next time

Checkout the video Bellow;

https://youtu.be/R9qpw1JPShQ

"I stay my haste, I make delays, For what avails this eager pace? I stand amid the eternal ways, And what is mine shall know my face."

Maxolous
   

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Sorry guys, I deleted the video because it was too noisy
   

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   Max: 
   You are showing the Kacher being turned on, but did not show what the Kacher can do without using the PP on, also. Just the kacher by itself.
We can see that the PP can barely light the little bulb, and that most of the light is coming when you turned on the kacher. What I'm getting at, is that the bulb lit with just the Kacher on, may be just as bright as without the PP on, also.  So, again you are not showing any real interaction like that yet, using the small bulb, and providing it several time more amps, than the 30w bulb.
   So, perhaps you can show the lighting of the bulb, with only just the kacher signal running, next time. And I'll be waiting for you to show the interaction with 300w or more as the load. When you are ready... of course, as otherwise you may think that you have something, when you don't.
I'm not trying to be an ass, just trying to be clear about this, as I am not easily fooled by low wattage bulbs being partially lit.
You also need to show what your Kacher streamers look like, as well as clearly showing the voltages and and frequencies on your scope.
As you say that you have nothing to hide. I have shown all this, and more. And have shared all I know without holding anything back.

   I have also mentioned and shown that I can light two 50w bulbs, and even partially a 100w bulb, with just the Kacher running.
So, that is why I ask you to show what your Kacher can do by itself, without the PP running, and hopefully without making all the noise.

   NickZ
   

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   Max: 
   You are showing the Kacher being turned on, but did not show what the Kacher can do without using the PP on, also. Just the kacher by itself.
We can see that the PP can barely light the little bulb, and that most of the light is coming when you turned on the kacher. What I'm getting at, is that the bulb lit with just the Kacher on, may be just as bright as without the PP on, also.  So, again you are not showing any real interaction like that yet, using the small bulb, and providing it several time more amps, than the 30w bulb.
   So, perhaps you can show the lighting of the bulb, with only just the kacher signal running, next time. And I'll be waiting for you to show the interaction with 300w or more as the load. When you are ready... of course, as otherwise you may think that you have something, when you don't.
I'm not trying to be an ass, just trying to be clear about this, as I am not easily fooled by low wattage bulbs being partially lit.
You also need to show what your Kacher streamers look like, as well as clearly showing the voltages and and frequencies on your scope.
As you say that you have nothing to hide. I have shown all this, and more. And have shared all I know without holding anything back.

   I have also mentioned and shown that I can light two 50w bulbs, and even partially a 100w bulb, with just the Kacher running.
So, that is why I ask you to show what your Kacher can do by itself, without the PP running, and hopefully without making all the noise.

   NickZ

Anybody using controllable Tesla knows that you can never put ON controllable Tesla without first putting push-pull ON. Ask Itsu, he has been there. The only way is to disconnect all four wires from yoke core( L2 and L3). I have tried it , a controllable Tesla does not have such power.

If you watched my video which was deleted, you would realize that I was using 2 pulses.  So, where will the power come from to light even a 40watts bulb.  I used kacher earlier on to direct my Tesla coil to Target talking to my grenade coil on same frequency. That was the reason I made that video to demonstrate synchronisis and that was when I lit the 40watts bulb.

I put it to you again, controllable Tesla can never light bulbs. Kacher can. Maybe you have to experiment on that.

What we use controllable Tesla for is to strike a specific place in the standing wave .

Regards

Maxolous.
« Last Edit: 2021-10-29, 20:25:36 by Maxolous »
   

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We can see that the PP can barely light the little bulb, and that most of the light is coming when you turned on 

   NickZ

Absolutely wrong, 2 pulses from controllable Tesla can't light any bulb. What you saw was the magic of the setup. It was the combination of both that lit the bulb brightly.

Maxolous
   

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   So, again you are not showing any real interaction like that yet, using the small bulb, and providing it several time more amps, than the 30w bulb.
   

   NickZ

If the katcher can build upon what is on ground no matter how low, that is interaction. Would you rather I take the push-pull to 45% duty cycle for you to know that there is interaction. I brought the duty cycle down for you to know that it is interacting with the controllable Tesla. If I didn't do it this way you would be the first person to complain.

Maxolous
   

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   Max: Ok, I'm glad that you are happy with the results.
   

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The brand; Wima is the best. They are made in Germany, they are actually called 'resonance capacitor"

Plastic film capacitors are offered by WIMA in many different versions. The dielectric used constitutes the main distinguished criterion:

Polyester (Mylar) MKS/FKS versions*
Polypropylene MKP/FKP versions*
Polyphenylene-Sulphide SMD-PPS*

*WIMA-types

Maxolous
Yes I thought it was good to mention ceramic disc caps as I tested a few resonant frequencies
at lower frequency on a old Tesla coil using an old variable Jackson Brothers 600pf x 2 double gang
air gap vain Variable device from the 60s it had an excellent amplitude, but swapping to disc caps (same value) but smaller physicaly.
Produced a 50% loss in amplitude, it would seam disc caps are only good for decoupling!
Just thaught that info would be of use to others.


Regards Sil
« Last Edit: 2021-10-30, 08:43:49 by AlienGrey »
   

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an old variable Jackson Brothers 600pf x 2 double gang air gap vain Variable device from the 60s it had an excellent amplitude, but swapping to disc caps (same value) but smaller physicaly produced a 50% loss in amplitude, it would seam disc caps are only good for decoupling!
Of course, because air has lower dielectric loss (δ) than most ceramics and plastics. This dielectric loss and any other ESR in the LC circuit lowers the Q and the amplitude.
Next time you buy capacitors, pay attention to their "loss tangent" rating.  See this table and this.

BTW: It is illogical to worry so much about the loss of energy in a capacitor yet ignore the loss of energy in non-Litz windings occurring due to the skin effect.
« Last Edit: 2021-10-30, 14:04:12 by verpies »
   

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    Is the 4000w output shown on Ruslan's outdoors video, using the house wire on the grenade coils, not high enough? I would be happy with a 1/10 of that.
   The problem, is that none of us can show even a 10w output for free. Not even one watt.  Is that just due to the caps and type of wire used. I don't think so. So, why don't we focus on what is needed to make this work as it should.

   NickZ
« Last Edit: 2021-10-31, 14:53:22 by NickZ »
   

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If the katcher can build upon what is on ground no matter how low, that is interaction. Would you rather I take the push-pull to 45% duty cycle for you to know that there is interaction. I brought the duty cycle down for you to know that it is interacting with the controllable Tesla. If I didn't do it this way you would be the first person to complain.

Maxolous

   You still don't get it Max:
   When you connect the kacher up also, you are adding more voltage and current (power) to the induction circuit. So the small bulb gets brighter.
Your induction circuit is barely lighting the small bulb, by itself. That is not my imagination, look for yourself.
   The additional brightness comes from the additional input from the Kacher circuit being just ADDED, but not not interacting. The proof of what I'm saying is very important, which is to show the actual interaction at over 300w loads. Since you can't do that, won't do that, you think that what you are seeing is interaction. Maybe you have some interaction, but possibly at less than 50% efficient. Which is less than any power supply, or inverter.
   I had forgotten or did not know that you are using the Tesla coil connected to your induction circuits. Please check some of Geo's Kacher videos, as he CAN show that his Akula type of controlable Kacher can be turned on WITHOUT, the induction circuit needing to be going. Unlike your set up.
After seeing yours and Itsu's results, I don't think that that is the best way to go. As the same TL494 frequency on both induction circuit and Kacher circuit can't be the best match and sync. And, none of the self runners are shown running their Kachers at 500KHz.
I say this more for the other guys, so that they are aware of this, also. As you think that you're ok like that. And won't show even lighting a 100w bulb as the load. I'm not asking to show lighting 600w on 18v, like I have shown. And can do so even without the Kacher on, as there is little interaction at those wattage and draw, for me at this time. Like I mentioned, I'm saying this mostly for the other guys, as you don't believe me, and I don't expect any one to believe what I say. Test it for yourself, to verify. I'm not trying to be a negative ass about this, I'm trying to be real, and I say this because it is what I find to be true. Not just wish full thinking.
   So, if I'm wrong, Please show me how wrong I am. As I'm not partial to any one way of doing things.

   NickZ
   

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Nick what pissed me off on OU when I asked questions regarding JB's vids some Guy didn't like me asking questions  :'( :'(
Here is that video >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYaS9xCeNJE
   
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